HE springs around 40-45gf?
▲ 4 r/keyboards+1 crossposts

HE springs around 40-45gf?

Got some UW ice shines and really like them but the stock springs felt too light. 35gf initial force and 21mm making them pretty light but too snappy at the same time.

I think I screwed up. There aren't any initial force specs for these, closest stated specs are for the Geon HE Raws. So I ordered the 62.5gf pack based on that, I think I screwed up. These are heavy. They feel like 50g initial force. Fatiguing just gaming, not even typing.

Does anyone have the 52.5g pack? I'm looking for 40-45gf initial force, preferably 15-18mm springs.

u/RateElectrical7757 — 4 days ago

Keycap size?

Does the 80he use regular sized keys or 75% keys? My first custom board, have PBTs but the backspace and right shift caps don’t seat properly in the stabs.

Not sure if the keys themselves are warped or I’m using the wrong size here?

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 14 days ago

Where does Wooting ship from?

AFAIK, all international orders are shipped from Netherlands? At least based on their shipping info.

However I received a WhatsApp message that my order is being shipped from CN, just wanted to check if this is legit or spam. I’m aware that their products are made in China but I thought they were assembled and stored in NL.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 20 days ago

Thocky/deep mid range HE switches

What would you guys pick for a deeper and slightly muted sound in the mid range budget?

Currently looking at Owlab Ti He which I personally think sounds pretty bright/clacky but people seem to suggest it is thocky irl. Same for Lekker tikkens? Oddly I find the l45 v2s deeper but they are old and have some wobble.

Tnt six realms silent/pro/hifi is another option. Neo lavenders would have been perfect but not available anywhere near my region.

Gravastar UFOs are more than I would like to spend.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 23 days ago

P1 HE vs L5 HE

Is it worth paying 30 usd more for a L5 HE?

Reviews seem to lean towards the P1 HE, but unfortunately it’s out of stock here. If anyone has tried both could you share your experience?

The P1 HE seems to be better for overall typing feel and acoustics, latency is 3ms though. No idea on the L5 HE’s latency as no one has done tests. I don’t need wireless and prefer the left side cable output.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 27 days ago

Should I downgrade to the RSL 10S MKII?

My Rythmik L12 has decided to start dying at 3.5 years of light to moderate use. I'm still in talks with the local reseller and Rythmik to see what can be done but I'm preparing for a worst case scenario. However this is a different topic for another day.

I am by no means looking down on the RSL, I know it's a damn good sub for the price, but it i don't think it's in the same category as the L12. The L12 hits single digits in my small room setup thanks to room gain.

Options are limited and expensive in my region, the L12 cost me about 1.2k usd. A SB-1000 Pro goes for about $900 or slightly less if there's a sale, but the SB 2000 Pro is a closer apples to apples comparison and it's about 1.4k usd.

I'd like the RSL 12s ($1.2k all in) but it's just too big unless I have it on it's side which is kinda odd. My options now are to buy the 10SMK2 direct from the US for about $600+ all inclusive, get the SB2000 Pro for $1.4k, or get a used and probably out of warranty SB3000 for $1k+.

What would you guys recommend? I like sub 20hz performance. Sorry for the long wall of text.

Edit : Small room and max height is limited. Ideally below 16 inches in height and max of maybe 18inches.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 28 days ago

Should I "downgrade" to the RSL 10SMK2?

My Rythmik L12 has decided to start dying at 3.5 years of light to moderate use. I'm still in talks with the local reseller and Rythmik to see what can be done but I'm preparing for a worst case scenario. However this is a different topic for another day.

I am by no means looking down on the RSL, I know it's a damn good sub for the price, but it i don't think it's in the same category as the L12. The L12 hits single digits in my small room setup thanks to room gain.

Options are limited and expensive in my region, the L12 cost me about 1.2k usd. A SB-1000 Pro goes for about $900 or slightly less if there's a sale, but the SB 2000 Pro is a closer apples to apples comparison and it's about 1.4k usd.

I'd like the RSL 12s ($1.2k all in) but it's just too big unless I have it on it's side which is kinda odd. My options now are to buy the 10SMK2 direct from the US for about $600+ all inclusive, get the SB2000 Pro for $1.4k, or get a used and probably out of warranty SB3000 for $1k+.

What would you guys recommend? I like sub 20hz performance. Sorry for the long wall of text.

Edit : Small room and max height is ideally below 16 inch, absolute max 17 to maybe 18 inches.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 28 days ago

Recommend me a 75/TKL HE or TMR

Used a Corsair K95 RGB for a decade, switched to a BW V4, don't hate me, I was a plug and play person before falling down this rabbit hole. Synapse has been excellent for me debloated, my issue is with the 1.2mm actuation of the Razer yellows, they are too sensitive for me after having used the mx browns for a decade.

Budget $100-150 usd shipped. Don't mind up to $200 for well known and non chinese brands with proper warranties and customer support.

Must haves

- Decent software, doesn't need to be wooting level but at least close to keychron

- Non plastic case (yeah not the Wooting 80he)

- North facing leds

- Below 5 degree minimum incline preferred, 4 is great

- Decent typing feel and thockiness (I know HE isn't good for this)

Bonuses

- Knob or volume wheel

- Wired with non centered port

- Per key/Mix RGB support

- Exploded/seperated layout for 75%

Was about to pull the trigger on a good deal for the Lemokey P1 HE but the last black one just got sold. Also looked into Pulsar PCMK 3 HE, but reviews are non existent. Field75 HE would be perfect if it had a black option (nevermind it has south facing leds).

My worst case scenario is a regular mech with hotswappable switches, maybe the bw v4 75%.

TIA for any suggestions.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 1 month ago

Should I get the K10HE?

Probably not a neutral place to ask this, but after using a Corsair K95 RGB (cherry mx browns) for at least a decade, I impulse bought a Blackwidow V4 (yellow switch). I wanted a full size keeb with media keys and macros.

Now I feel like I should have gotten the Keychron instead as I keep accidentally strafing left due to the low actuation point of the BW4 (I’m used to 2.0mm and 45gf with the browns). With HE I can set this higher and gradually get used to lower points.

Based on RTings the K10HE has about 2 ms higher key latency than the BW4 but I doubt this is noticeable?

Is it possible to assign combination macros via Keychron QMK? I only see single key assignments being possible.

How’s the quality of the K series compared to Razer? Also is there build quality differences between the standard and special editions? I intend to get the full black standard.

There are no other full size HE options to pick from here apart from the Wooting 2HE which has to be shipped and is old now.

TIA for any responses.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 1 month ago
▲ 2 r/razer

Worth switching from Blackwidow V4 to Huntsman Pro/8khz?

Just got a BW V4 yellow switch, but I'm accidentally strafing left/right and occasionally double typing due to the 1.2mm actuation. For context I've been using cherry mx browns for more than a decade, so inevitably got used to the 2.0mm actuation point. I also realized that I don't really need macros but would like media keys. Already using a Viper Ultimate mouse.

Initially was considering the Keychron K10HE/Monsgeek M2V5 HE, but Razer somehow has crazy good end to end latency vs most other competitors (from RTings independent testing).

I'm now looking at the Huntsman Pro or 8khz version for the customizable actuation points. A friend had a lot of issues with the Huntsman TKL, drift and whatnot, wondering if this has been fixed in the 8khz or newer versions of the regular Huntsman?

The only thing apart from price I dislike about Razer is the lack of onboard memory and RGB saving (like why do I need a separate Chroma app?).

TIA for any advice.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 1 month ago

Keychron K10HE or Monsgeek M2V5

I see more reviews of Keychron vs the Monsgeek, though some say the latter is better quality? Not too sure about Monsgeek’s QMK tho. Both will be ordered fully assembled.

They’re both around the same price here and I prefer full size keebs.

Also does anyone know if either have similar or better latency than a BW V4? I heard Keychron had some latency issues in the past. Razer somehow gets very good single and multi key latencies even vs HE.

TIA for any advice or responses.

Edit : M2V5 HE not VIA.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 1 month ago

Keychron K10HE or Monsgeek M2V5

I see more reviews of Keychron vs the Monsgeek, though some say the latter is better quality? Not too sure about Monsgeek’s QMK tho. Both will be ordered fully assembled.

They’re both around the same price here and I prefer full size keebs.

Also does anyone know if either have similar or better latency than a BW V4? I heard Keychron had some latency issues in the past. Razer somehow gets very good single and multi key latencies even vs HE.

TIA for any advice or responses.

Edit : M2V5 HE not VIA.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 1 month ago

Daisy chained argb and OpenRGB

I’ve rewired my Arctic P14 Pro ARGBs 3 times now and in all cases only the first fan lights up in the chain.

As I understand it, you connect the female socket of the last fan to the male plug of the next until you arrive at the first fan, of which then you plug the female socket into the male header on the mobo right?

There are two sets of fans that connect to two argb headers and they are all wired as such. In both cases only the final fan plugged in lights up. Mobo supports both power rating and number of LEDs so that’s not the issue. LEDs on all fans are working.

My only other concern is if openrgb is refusing to detect the daisy chained leds for whatever reason?

TIA for any help.

Update : SignalRGB is detecting all fans and working correctly, seems it was an OpenRGB issue all along.

Solved : Reinstalling OpenRGB prompted addressable header LED count and inputting correct values to resize the zone did the trick.

u/RateElectrical7757 — 2 months ago

Gloves for HS420

Were only reviewers given anti static gloves? I thought they were provided as standard.

Any tips for handling the glass panel? I only have latex medical and thermal gloves.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 2 months ago

HS420 Vgpu for horizontal setup, worth?

So at this point I’ve waited 6+ months and stocks for the Havn HS 420 base is still non existent, I’m not even sure if they plan to ship or bring stock here anymore. I can’t find any other case that I really like and of similar quality.

I’m thinking of buying the vgpu and just using it as a regular horizontal config, how bad are the angled fans for gpu airflow without the shroud? I can live with the angled look as long as it doesn’t affect acoustics or airflow to the gpu.

Also I know they don’t provide an anti sag bracket with the vgpu case and only a few (not exactly sure how many) pci slot covers, is there anywhere to mount a standalone anti sag stand if need be?

Can’t mount gpu vertically even if I wanted to, I have a high speed ethernet card that needs another pcie slot.

TIA for advice/experiences.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 2 months ago
▲ 13 r/RTX5080

Could you accept this level of coil whine?

Noticeably audible, sounds like a fan bearing or a cricket going off non stop in my rig.

Needs below 860mv under load to almost completely go away but that gimps the card hard.

u/RateElectrical7757 — 2 months ago
▲ 11 r/RTX5080

MSRP + tax 5080

Snagged this for about 1100 usd after tax, cheapest option we have here.

4070tis amp holoblack for comparison. The palit 5080 is slightly smaller in all dimensions and weighs less. Doesn’t sag even without a bracket.

u/RateElectrical7757 — 2 months ago

Voltage limits?

Upgrading from a 4070tis.

Haven’t really been following 50 series but a good deal just dropped so I got a 5080.

My 4070tis has a voltage limit of 1.1v, and it needs the 1.1v to get the best possible OC (9-10% over stock).

I’m confused about the 5080 though, did Nvidia reduce max voltage to 1.0v? I’m seeing a lot of different results in oc threads here and other forums. Some people say their card goes to 1.09v while others say 0.995v. Is this board/bios specific?

TIA.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 2 months ago

Some observations from updating to 1.59

Thought these may be worth mentioning for enthusiasts and the like.

  1. According to a dev, buffer size should now be left at the default value of 10 in config as backend changes optimized this. Setting to 50 may result in crashes or no difference in performance. Further testing required.

Source : scs forums

  1. As of 1.59, Nvidia’s smooth motion is now working! This is huge as it’s basically frame generation but at the driver level, and alleviates the cpu bottleneck at higher fps or with weaker cpus. It does require additional GPU resource though.

Source : my own testing, smooth motion is only available on RTX 40/50 series.

  1. Snowymoons free TAA/DLAA plugin (TAA v10) is no longer supported, at least confirmed on 40/50 series cards as it causes a driver crash. He has also said that he no longer supports the free version and does not plan to update it. The paid version has been updated to work with 1.59 however it has many major flaws. HDR is not supported, multi monitor configs are not supported, smooth motion is not supported and only Reshade 6.5 or older is supported.

Source : his patreon plus my own testing.

Seems like SCS is finally catching up and the backend changes not explicitly mentioned in update notes contain quite a bit of improvements.

Now all we need is for them to fix the TAA, even if the engine update is not coming soon.

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u/RateElectrical7757 — 3 months ago