
u/Sigong

A third update on my dehydrated Conophytum calculus
I gently removed it from the soil. There isn't any sign of rot. There seem to be some little white roots with fine hairs (see 2nd picture), which I believe is a good sign.
I am assuming that the roots just died back a bit from lack of water and are now waking up after my repeated waterings.
I'm going to repot it in extremely gritty soil and water in a few days, unless someone here tells me otherwise. Hopefully I can avoid damaging the tiny roots too badly.
Conophytum calculus doesn't seem to be plumping up when watered (1 month follow-up to a previous post)
Previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/mesembs/comments/1vnwz76/concerned_about_my_conophytum_calculus/
Picture is from today.
Since the last post I reduced the light the plant recieved by a bit and deeply watered 2-3 times (drying out completely after each time).
The plant looks the same. I am concerned because the consensus in the comments of the last post was that it was thirsty rather than sheathing, but it doesn't seem to be plumping up after watering.
Is it actually sheathing, or will I need to do something to help it drink?
Care info is in the previous post.
Have any of you observed weird growth and color after giving your Tradescantia (and related genus, like Callisia) Imidacloprid granules?
I use imidacloprid on my succulents to prevent pests. I've never observed any weird growth after treating those plants.
I gave imidacloprid to a Tradescantia zebrina and to a Callisia repens at different times. Both plants started to grow weirdly afterwards. The zebrina's leaves dried up and fell off one by one, and the new growth was malformed and oddly colored. The Callisia repens also had new growth that was weirdly shaped and colored, but no leaf loss.
I've never had issues with the systemic pesticide before, so I'm wondering if this indicates that this genus and related genus don't respond well to imidacloprid.
What strategies do you use to avoid accumulating "task-objects"?
I tend to accumulate a lot of clutter in my apartment. A large amount of the clutter consists of things I call "task-objects". A task-object is an object that is associated with a task in some way (has information about the task, needs a task performed on it, etc). It could be anything from plant fertilizer to tell me I need to fertilize my plants to some pieces of a craft project to a pile of mail and other miscellaneous papers.
I want to complete the tasks, but because of my task initation issues this is difficult. I would like to clean up the clutter, but I'm afraid I'll forget about the task if the object is no longer visible.
What strategies can I use to deal with my task-object clutter other than simply doing the tasks? I've only tried putting them away and making lists but then I need to remember to check the lists and eventually the storage solution overflows.
Double-checking Anthurium papillilaminum seedling care
I purchased this seedling at the monthly NYC plant market.
The vendor gave me some care instructions that I'd like to confirm with knowledgeable people on this subreddit.
Care Instructions:
- 70-90% humidity inside a mostly sealed container (I have a hygrometer so this shouldn't be a problem
- keep soil moist but not wet
- 40-60 ppfd for 12 hours daily
- once it grows 2-3 more leaves I can start slowly decreasing humidity and eventually open the sealed container permanently.
Do these instructions seem correct? I mostly have succulents and I've only grown aloe from seed so I don't have a good intuition for this plant. I think the upper roots have grown since I bought it but I'm not sure if they grow that quickly or I am just remembering its previous condition incorrectly.
Anyone know where I can get a small amount of dry ice? (1 lb or less)
I need ~0.25 lbs of dry ice. The smallest amount I've found for sale is 5 lbs for $10. I don't want to waste 95% of my money, as I will need to get 0.25 lbs more than once (but not frequently enough to purchase a larger amount of dry ice and store it).
Concerned about my Conophytum calculus
(Pictures are in reverse chronological order)
First picture was taken today
Second picture was taken in May
Third, Fourth, Fifth pictures were taken in April
Kept indoors under grow lights bright enough to cause a small amount of sun stress on a Jade plant.
Watered never (I got it in March, it was plump)
Planted in 50% perlite (pot is tiny so I'm not worried that it will stay moist for too long)
In May I assumed it was shriveling because it was sheathing, but it's been three months and it doesn't seem papery at all, just shriveled.
Do I need to be patient and wait for the sheathing process to finish, or is my plant extremely thirsty and not actually sheathing yet?
Anyone know where I can buy dry ice by the pound in the Fort Lee area?
I need about 100g of dry ice (frozen CO2) once per week for the next 6 weeks.
I already called Carlstadt Ice but they said the smallest amount I can buy is 10lbs for $20. This would cost me $120 overall, so I'm seeking other options.
Any Drill Press I can use?
Anyone know where I can find a drill press to use for less than 30 minutes? I need to use a hole saw to make some holes in metal shelves but I don't feel safe doing it with a handheld drill. I have the hole saw already.
People who have managed to make their bread much more sour than what it was initially: What change had the largest effect on your bread's flavor?
I think I've reached the limit of what cold proofing can do without compromising the bread's rise. My bread is still not sour enough!
My current recipe (starter is fed 2-1-1 every day or two):
- Mix 200g starter and 750g lukewarm water
- Add 700g bread flour and 300g whole wheat flour
- Mix until incorporated
- Wait 30 minutes for fermentolyse
- Incorporate 20g salt and 20g water
- Bulk ferment until doubled, folding every 30-90 minutes depending on the dough's strength (generally takes 4-7 hours depending on the day's temperature)
- Divide and preshape, wait 20 minutes
- Shape, wait a few minutes, transfer to bannetons
- Wait until the dough passes the poke test
- Transfer to fridge for 1-4 days
- Bake directly from fridge (20 minutes at 500 F in closed dutch oven, then remove lid and bake for 30 minutes at 450)
After a few days in the fridge, my bread tends to go flat during baking. When this doesn't happen, I'm generally happy with all characteristics of my bread other than the sourness level.
Have you gone from making bread that was not sour enough to bread that is very sour? Which change did you make that had the largest impact on your bread's flavor?
Requesting help with eradicating some type of red-orange mites on my 3 plants (they are not spider mites as there are no webs, but I've confirmed under a microscope that they are mites)
I have three epiphytic cacti:
- Hatiora salicornioides (Dancing bones)
- Christmas cactus
- Unknown third plant that resembles queen of the night (long unsegmented leaves)
All three plants have been suffering for a while. They develop discolored regions on their leaves and drop most of their new growth. The leaves also display stress colors despite the gentle light I expose them to.
I was recently able to confirm using a cheap USB microscope that all three plants are afflicted with some kind of red-orange mite. The mites are minuscule but if I put my eye extremely close to the leaves I can see them walking around. The mites seem to only like the epiphytic cacti (I have about 100 other succulents of various genera which were kept near the cacti before I identified the mites. I have not observed any weird damage or mites on any other plants).
I'd like to treat all three plants to eradicate the mites. I'd prefer not to use miticide. I'm currently weighing four different options:
- Submerge in water repeatedly for a few weeks (I've heard that this kills adult mites but I'm not sure about eggs)
- Dessicate the mites by spraying with rubbing alcohol (this is probably easiest for me to accomplish)
- Use a pump bottle to coat the plants in wettable sulfur (I'm not sure if they can handle it, I've had bad results with a pre-mixed sulfur spray on a peperomia before)
- Neem oil (I've heard a lot of horror stories but it keeps being recommeded)
I'd appreciate any feedback on the above options as well as any guidance from people who have dealt with this type of mite before. I'd also love to know if any of the above options will have unexpected effects on epiphytic cacti that aren't present when used on other plants.
Thanks!
Where I can buy standoffs to replace the ones from this table (shape doesn't have to be the same, just mode of attachment)
I snapped one of them in half when I was moving my table (not this exact table but close enough).
The tops must have used adhesive to attach to the bottom of the glass (rather than going through a hole in the glass). The remaining half is firmly attached to the glass after snapping.
The base of each standoff is attached with a bolt through a hole in the wood and a nut on the other side.
Google lens didn't work and I can only find standoffs that require holes in the glass or clamp to the edge of the glass when I search for standoffs.
I'm driving from Richmond VA to Fort Lee NJ today. Are there any nurseries on this trip that are worth stopping at for more uncommon plants?
I'm following the route that Google maps suggests if you want the specific locations I'll be passing through.
I'm currently interested in windowed Haworthia but I'll enjoy any store with a large variety of species.
I need to store a car for around 4 days. Can anyone suggest a cheap parking garage or other solution? I'm near Fort Lee but I'll drive up to 30 mins away if it's cheaper
reddit.comSeeking identification of this Sedum(?) The size and shape of its leaves also remind me of Crassula mesembryanthemoides (except this one doesn't have any hair)
Any advice for this tiny lithops that is taking a long time to absorb its outer leaves?
First photo is from today, second photo is from 2 months ago
I'm worried because the inner leaves have gotten extremely wrinkled while the outer leaves have not been completely absorbed.
Should I give it a little water or keep waiting?
Lithops Update: I want to double check that I am going to do the correct thing
Previous post for photo comparison: https://www.reddit.com/r/Lithops/comments/1siu3c1/just_got_my_first_lithops_i_would_appreciate/
I believe I definitely need to water 2,3,4, and 6. They look wrinkly on the top and sides.
I would appreciate some guidance on 1 and 5, as the newer leaves look pretty wrinkly but they don't appear to have completely finished absorbing their old leaves and I am not sure if I should water them.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Have you ever had succulents start to etiolate after giving them more light?
I recently bought some more grow lights and increased the ppfd my plants receive by about 30%. A bunch of them have begun to etiolate since then. I haven't changed anything else about their conditions.
I've verified with a PAR meter that the ppfd increased as I expected.