u/Stone804_

I own the GDT01, I got it when the GDT03 was out and it seemed everyone recomended the original GDT01.

My HD got rid of all the XGT tools and the new display had the XDT20 and wow it’s TINY! Felt good in the hand and seems to have most of the same features as my GDT01 but way smaller.

Is the new GDT04 smaller like this XDT20? I can’t physically compare them as they got rid of all the XGT. Ugh.

I’m almost exclusively XGT but I have an LXT angle drill I got for $95 clearance and 1 battery (and traded my mom my 18v power head for the 40v power head so those who saw me post before, I’m still at 1 LXT tool & battery just a different tool).

So tempted by that XDT20 but no clearance price anytime soon… but maybe a holiday deal?…

Anyway anyone have both? Is the GDT04 much smaller than the GDT01? Or will I have to add a second LXT tool to my collection?

2008 LR2 HSE with 268,000 miles.

Around 263,000 I was having a weird situation where I’d be driving, suddenly I’d get a wheel vibration that would slowly increase almost like I had a flat tire that was losing air: I’d pull over and nothing was wrong and then I’d start driving and the vibration was gone.

It started to become more frequent and eventually when I was going uphill it was very bad and the mechanics couldn’t replicate the issue but said it must be my rear differential as they could hear crunching when it spun in the lift.

Replaced that plus tie rods (or the end links I forget) at $6,500.

A week later it was sort of doing something similar except this time my engine smoked and I pulled over and it was clearly one of the plug coils fried. So those were replaced at $650-ish. This may be unrelated but it FELT similar although not entirely the same but close enough so wanted to mention it.

It’s going it again a month later but has been fine this whole time before then.

I can’t for the life of me figure out what it could actually be unless the new rear diff is bad. I suggested it might be a wheel bearing early on but they seemed to think those were fine. And it’s not constant. But always goes away when the car stops moving and starts again so it’s vibration-related in my mind, as the vibration continues to increase once it starts happening.

Because it’s so intermittent that can’t really replicate it easily and I’m just wondering if anyone else experienced this and what else it could possibly be? Anything I should consider that I haven’t? That kind thing.

No reason to post except I just can’t get over the flames in my new stove. It’s wild and wanted to share (photo doesn’t even begin to do it…).

Just started using my two free chainsaws from eRebate in November? Both GCU05z.

The 16” blade is really good and I’ve used it a lot.

The 18” I didn’t even finish a whole job and it’s full AF.

The 16” even if Makita brand box was an Oregon brand bag.

The 18” bar and chain I got from Home Depot and was Makita branded.

The 18” is in the 16” saw but by all accounts they are the same body and it “works just fine” just dulled super fast.

I’ve now done this whole tree except the last part and only did ONE cut down with the 18” before it dulled and did the rest with the 16” and it looks so much sharper still. What’s going on?

First chain image is both side by side, second is the 16” and last two are the 18” dull chain.

We bought a house and gutted it. 1956, original Anderson windows. We just can’t afford to re-do the windows at this time, so we did the insulation (closed cell spray foam) in the walls but didn’t fill the gaps around the windows because I don’t want to struggle to remove them later.

So I cut small strips of fiber glass and shoved it in paper side to the outside. Since the spray foam acts as a vapor barrier I figured that might help around the windows?

Is this the right thing to do? I could just use air conditioner style window foam or those tubes, but I already own the fiber glass from a previous house job I never got to.

The ceiling will be blown in cellulose. And I’ve already cut the soffit holes for adding proper baffles for air flow in the attic.

Wanted to check to see before we keep going if there’s something we should be wary of or anything. Some close up photos included. Looks like there was a previous vapor barrier of just clear plastic maybe? We didn’t do the demo work so all I know is there was ZERO insulation before and just open walls.

Maybe I’m just being dumb here. But I’m noticing that more smoke comes out of my chimney when the catalyst is engaged and less when it’s on bypass (if I’m reading how to engage it properly…)

The circular disk seems to indicate that bypass should be rotating the handle clockwise, and engaging the catalyst is rotating it counter-clockwise. Right?

So why is this happening?

Bought a house. There’s an illegal vent hood for an outside grill piped into the side of the chimney. It’s illegal because it shares a flue with the basement fireplace.

I plan to use the fireplace or at least put a liner for an insert in there at some point. How do I properly plug this hole without messing up the inside of the flue chamber and rendering it an even worse fire issue? What’s the procedure like?

So frustrating… will they re-release this? It only opened today, yesterday I tried to buy and they hadn’t even programmed it into the system yet so I was waiting…

I don’t know why everyone complains about the lack of screw mounts in the LXT chargers, it was easy to make my own (Although the available placement is NOT ideal… it still works).

Mind the mess, just bought the house and this is a temporary setup while I do renovations.

Also, yes I have the m12 because of the cable stapler since Makita won’t make one, and I have some rigid stuff my dad got me before he passed away so don’t be too harsh on the “sin” of other brands.

I don’t own an angle drill. I’ve had a few times when I needed it but found a work around. Have some basement stuff that might need it, looks to be brushed… I’m mostly XGT platform but hav a single LXT battery.

Do I bother or just wait to find one at a tag sale? 😅

UPDATE: thanks for your suggestions, I passed: hope I don’t regret it, looks like the clearance on XGT in the future are dim at HD as they are eliminating them from many stores. Sigh

We bought a house and are having cellulose added to the attic.

However there’s a section of the attic that hovers over an outside ceiling overhang. We basically have a little area that is a covered porch between our garage and our house. So the two are connected by this empty overhang.

The insulation guys aren’t doing that section, just the blow-in over it. Because currently there’s no insulation we’ve noticed that we’ve had a lot of buildup of condensation in that pocket area. on the ceilings are worried about both future, mold problems, and air gaps.

The insulation people told us to add a vapor barrier before we put down the insulation, but we’re not exactly sure how that should be done properly.

From bottom to top, the layers of the house go:

Stone foundation patio, air gap (where we’d be walking), Wood ceiling, rafters, empty space, plywood, empty attic space where the insulation will go, roof rafters, roof.

I’m sure I’m calling the Rafters the wrong thing, but you know the horizontal wood that is everything 16 on center that the ceiling is attached to, and then the roof is attached to.

My question is sort of what kind of vapor barrier and where do I put it. We’re not in a position to add new siding yet, so we can’t just slap plastic on the outside of the wood, and then cover that with the new siding.

My understanding is the vapor barrier would go on the backside, but that’s where the light and electrical wires are to get to the light, and of course, all of the different rafters. Would we be undulating in and out of each rafter? It’s a small space that’s really hard to get to and taking up all the plywood might be virtually impossible, especially towards the edge. It’s basically like a giant soffit.

How do I do this properly. Keep in mind this space is not tall just wide (low angle roof), so getting in there to lay down those plastic rolls I see when I google vapor barrier, is not that easy…

I drew a rudimentary drawing to show an example of the top down look, as well as a side view. And attached some (bad) screenshots from a video I took when I ripped up one of the skinny plywood slats to see what was underneath.