u/camp_jacking_roy

Basically title. I've always wanted a manual e60 550i, and locally is a 2010 in the right spec with all the goodies. Has high mileage and the crossover pipe and valve stem seals have not been done. This would be an enthusiast/weekend car and occasional commuter, not a daily.

Anyways, I'm curious if the last year of the N62 is any more reliable/less likely to need these typical maintenance parts compared to earlier years.

First onsite interview coming up since 2018, and first onsite interview since switching from bench focused R+D to development (think clinops, reg affairs, med affairs). I had always been a suit guy until things started to drift more casual in the 2010s and finally embraced a "smart casual" button up, slacks, and professional looking fleece without a tie for my last onsite a few years ago (I did get the job).

Virtual interviews for the last 8 years have typically been button up +/- a fleece, but here we go- I have to actually put on pants. I have a decent suit and would pair it with a subtle tie and dark brown shoes, but I'm going to feel overdressed in that even if it's appropriate. Place is a mid-size biotech so not pharma nor startup either. So, suit it up or dress slacks and button up with a fleece or sport coat?

Considering picking up a fitbit air, but I record all of my cycling activities on a Garmin headunit (plus power meter, plus HRM strap) which uses Garmin Connect. Ideally, I would be able to export those activities into Fitbit with the appropriate HR data, GPS, strain, etc. and Fitbit would consider it alongside the 24/7 metrics that come from wearing the air on my wrist. Does anybody know if that's possible?

I've tried bevel and athlytic and they only consider what's happening on my apple watch, and I don't want to dual record my activities. I know the cirqa exists, but I like the compact form factor of the air. Any advice appreciated!

Hi folks, new potential user here. I use an Apple Watch day to day (basically 24/7) and track all of my cycling activities on my Garmin headunit. I wanted to try Athlytic but there's no good way to get my cycling workout data to be accurately tracked in the app unless I pay for a subscription to RunGap, and without it I never get an accurate exertion load. The only workaround is to track every workout with both my watch and headunit, and that sounds like a PITA.

Does Bevel look at data coming in from Garmin Connect, Strava, or Ergdata and consider it alongside the data coming in from my apple watch? Or will I get the same flat grey line where my HR info should be?

Hi all, new user here looking for a little information. I just started trying out Athlytic after finding the Apple health metrics to be less than actionable. I'm an avid cyclist and I've been hoping to find something like Whoop/body battery/etc. to gain more insight on how I'm recovering and training.

My question here is how Athlytic considers workout imports/workout loads when tracked with a device other than my apple watch. More specifically, I cycle commute and will often pause my garmin head unit when I get to work, then turn it back on when I get home. That way, Strava and my Join training app consider it to be one ride, rather than two rides with 8 hours in between. This has been working out fine as Strava and Join ignore the dead space in the workout, but it looks like Athlytic considers it to be one giant 10 hour workout. I'm assuming that Athlytic took heart rate measurements from my watch for the dead space as I wasn't wearing my strap, but that leads me to the next question- will Athlytic read my HR from the strap as imported by Strava when I do a regular workout, or will it read the apple watch data if I wear both at the same time?

It's easy enough to just break the two commutes into separate workouts if Athlytic prefers it that way, it just jumbles the way that Join reads the effort. I just don't want athlytic to only consider my apple watch and not my strap as that's less accurate and just one more complication.

I have two kids, both under 13. One kid got a phone a couple of years ago set up with strict but fair parental guardrails. Second get got an old phone just now to play with and take photos and text us/ his older sibling.

Recently discovered that older kid learned the screen time password and while I assume nothing nefarious happened, I’d like to see what apps she has on her phone. When I go to the App Store and look at “apps and purchases”, I only see myself and the younger kid. Purchase sharing is turned off universally, and the parental controls are really similar between the two kids though the older one has a newer phone and the younger an iPhone 6.

Am I missing some settings or something that is preventing me from viewing the older kids app in the same way I can see the younger ones? I can certainly take her phone and look at what she has, but being able to remotely view what either kid is playing with would be certainly useful.

Hi all,
I'm the relatively proud owner of a brand new madone. Unfortunately my bike is currently cooked and I'm looking for a little insight into what to expect if there are any Trek insiders or people who have experienced something similar. Basically, the steerer tube on my fork cracked at the back where the stem tightens. I lowered the stem, following instructions to keep less than 40mm of spacers above the stem, and I used a torque wrench to bring the bolts to 5nM. I used a longer version of the factory stem but it was the same model that the bike came with. Despite actually following instructions (I'll admit that I haven't in the past), the steerer is cracked through and needs replacement.

I'm curious as to what the odds are of me getting a replacement fork under warranty from Trek, or if there is likely to be something else offered (crash replacement?). I have a line on a new/used replacement fork and am tempted to go for it as it will likely be significantly less than what I understand is the crash replacement offering (20%?). I also don't want to pre-emptively buy something I don't need if Trek is likely to come through for me.

The situation sucks and I'm certain it looks on face value like I just ham-fisted the thing, but for once in my life I actually followed instructions. The bike is sitting with my local shop and they have entered a warranty plea on my behalf. I'm waiting to hear back but I've seen Trek people respond to posts here in the past so I thought I would ask.

Just a question and I expect the answer to be "no", but...

Looking to book flights toward the end of August but stalled and when I sat down to purchase after my recent vacation, they had gone up by like $60 ($180-245). Oops. Had too much going on when they were cheaper.

Any advice here- are they likely to go back down? Should I just book now if they are likely to go up even further? Kayak says they will go up $75 but they've been wrong in the past.

Basically, title. I found a great deal on Mille GTS bibs, but I have plenty of bibs at the moment and basically never ride over 6 hours. These are supposed to be the best for longer rides and I wouldn't mind adding them to the collection, but I also don't need them at the moment and I can spend the cash on better jerseys or bibs other than black.

I feel like this has a pretty straightforward answer, but I've gotten such great help here that I'm hoping for clarity...

I recently performed an FTP test at the start of a new training block, and the results were pretty disappointing- exactly my current FTP. I believe I may have had erg mode activated accidentally for the first ~15 minutes of the actual effort, so the results and effort were pretty skewed. I tried again after a day of rest, and actually scored lower than what my current FTP is set at. I feel great on the bike, stronger than I ever have, and often times feel like my intervals are easy and could be harder in general- all a good indicator that I'm ready for more challenging workouts. I'm using a different trainer controlling software than I used for my last test (Zwift before, Auuki now) and don't have access to a flat section of road to perform an outdoor test safely.

Is there any reason I can't just adjust my FTP to what my coaching software is suggesting as "estimated FTP" so that I enter my next training block with an appropriately challenging baseline? I really don't want to start this block at the same level as I feel like I can do more, and if I can't then I can just lower it, right? I don't want to waste any more time performing the test and bumping training efforts further down the road to make sure I'm appropriately rested.

48 red still in stock, yay!

Getting my new madone ready for service. I usually run an out front stem mount for my GPS and go-pro mount headlight. The madone came with the dual blendr mount and RCS stem, and of course my old mount won't fit the massively wide stem bolts.

I'm changing things over to take advantage of the Blendr mounts, but I noticed that mine has quite a bit of vertical play. It's not loose, but if you tug on it, the whole blendr mount will move up and down just a few mm. The stem is tight so that doesn't seem to be the issue, but the Blendr mount came installed so I don't know what's going on inside (haven't taken it apart that deeply yet). Is this normal, or is there something I can adjust?

edit: I found it; there is a screw that goes through the mount and tightening it fixed the issue. Couldn't see it sandwiched between the mounts.

Has anybody seen whether this is possible? I know Trek rates it to 32mm, but I've seen at least one video saying 35s will also work.

I have these tires "sitting around" and have already test fit them, but not on the proper wheels. I will probably try it anyways, but was just curious if anybody has seen it tested. I will plan to run 32s but it would be great to not buy new tires.

LBS is closing down and has a Madone SL5 Gen 8 in what appears to be my size (m/l). I have been casually looking at a new ride to replace my 3T strada (Size L) as I feel limited by 1x and 28mm tire clearance and frankly the bike is getting old. Madone would fix both issues and I think I could get it out the door for about $1900. I would likely sell off the 3T and my other bike which is set up as an all-road/commuter/climbing bike. I would scoop some carbon 50mm wheels and 32mm tires for it.

Anything I should be aware of before pulling the trigger? I can probably test ride it around the parking lot but zero opportunity to return. I'm not a racer but train seriously, compete against myself, and occasionally join a practice crit or TT.

Hey all, considering a used Urban Rush. I'm 5'11" and ride a 56cm road bike. The UR has similar reach and stack measurements to what I typically ride, but other measurements are way off. I should probably be on a large based on height alone, but pure geometry isn't far off. Any thoughts?

Hey all, my local trail karens have restricted my favorite bike path to class 1 ebikes only. I currently ride a Bosch performance line speed class 3 ebike. Can I restrict my bike so it only goes 20mph? I've found plenty of info in the opposite direction, but very little on how to slow down my bike.

Ideal would be to have the ability to switch between modes so I can still navigate traffic on my way to the path, but I want to set a good example/obey the rules on the path if I can.

I adore my sport loop band. It’s the first band I’ve ever considered paying full retail for. It’s breathable, comfortable, stays in place, stays clean, looks good formally and handles activities just fine. Unfortunately, it’s wearing out after a few years of constant wear and the velcro is getting loose. I need to replace it soon, but I’m not sure I want to risk a crappy band from Amazon even if it’s the color that I like- Apple’s colors just don’t really do it for me right now. Are any of the 80% off cheapo bands as good? Do they fall apart sooner or are they less comfortable/breathable? I’ll suck it up with the real thing if not.

Looking at some new Fiziks, the Stabilita in particular. I measured my larger foot at 273mm without socks. That puts me in a 42.5 which is far smaller than my typical 45 cycling shoe and size 11 street/athletic shoe. Would love to know whether to trust the size chart or trust my typical sizing. If I add 10mm to my foot size, that puts me in a 44 and that sounds pretty reasonable. Currently wearing a Bont 45 and could probably go down 0.5 size, but generally happy with the fit there.

edit: and yes, I did extensive searching, I just haven't found a definitive answer.