I want to tie the cord you can kind of see into a pattern around the bead/pendent in the last slid, I was considering adding a third string at the top and just braiding it but I thought I’d ask yall for suggestions.
I absolutely love how it turned out, I have a blue led tail switch, a warmer emitter and a brass bird skull bead (from coppertist wu) to put on the spring and then it’s done.
The steps to do this:
strip the protective coating with 0000 steal wool (takes about 20 minutes by hand)
in a container ball up a bunch of paper towels and soak them all in ammonia.
put salt on the paper towels where the light will be sitting.
put paper towels soaked in ammonia with salt on them on top of the light.
seal the container/jar.
I let this one for about 26 hours, the longer you leave it the more patina you’ll get.
Take it out and rinse it in cold water rubbing it gently with your fingers.
CAREFULLY go over it with the 0000 steel wool the remover any patina you don’t want and to shine up some seconds of the copper (to increase contrast)
Spray or paint it with a clear coat/lacquer/sealant to protect the paint as it can rub of quickly.
Edit: I edited this to add steps 7-9 but I’m on mobile so it may mess up my formatting a lot.
This is from the 1980s
This is the coating half striped, I finished stripping it and am about to put it in the ammonia and salt, how long do I leave it?
Any suggestions at all are appreciated like: How long do I leave it? What’s the best way to seal the inside? What’s the best lacquer to use?
I keep seeing geological posters that are very obviously gen AI, is there a way to report that or at least warn people (I’m not buying something to leave a review)
I need a Light I can carry through a cave, so it needs to be small-ish and durable, with high CRI. Any recommendations are appreciated.
(I am a broke college student, so my budget is $100)
I have been looking through the owner's manual, but it doesn't have the cri of the flash listed. I assume it's high, but I'd hate to be wrong.
I have a color checker passport from calibrite, and a lot of raw photos, I want to make the color profile in all of them match how do I go about this?
The photos are for a scientific paper where color is an important factor of the study (it’s about speleothem coloration if that helps)
Any advice or papers/videos you can link would be greatly appreciated.
Relevant information:
the cameras I am using are a Nikon D40, and an iPhone 16 (simple RAW camera app).
I am converting the RAW files to DNG with Adobe DNG converter.
The application I plan on using is affinity by canva. Or GIMP.
I have a color profile made for both cameras and all of my lights I plan to use, for this I used calibrite profiler.
If you need more information please let me know
P.S: Apologies of this is the wrong sub if it is please point me in the right direction, also sorry if formatting is odd I’m on mobile.
The first two are about the spectrum graphs:
First how do I read it what do the axis represent? And second do the peaks show what nuclei are present or just likely present?
And the last question: do I need to calibrate it?
Any advice is appreciated and any videos/blogs you think helpful are welcome.
Edit: I ment 102, sorry
I would like to get some of this mineral to take with me to outreach events because it’s always fun to talk about rarity vs scarcity.
I keep seeing on eBay and Etsy but I don’t know if they are real dose anyone know to tell if it’s real?
Or can someone point me to shop that is reliable or has verified mineral specimens?
Hi, I am about to start gathering data for a study on the coloration of speleothems (cave formations). To do this, I will be using a few tools to look for different contaminants: the Olympus Vanta Max pXRF to look for metals/metal ions, and UV light to look for certain types of organic material.
Now, because this involves color, I will be including pictures of all tested formations and noting what lights and cameras are used. My question is this: do I need to use a color card or a colorimeter? Both are quite expensive, and I have no idea how to go about using them.
Let me know if you need more info about the project.
Also, none of the tested speleothems will be damaged/removed.
Hi, I am about to start gathering data for a study on the coloration of speleothems (cave formations). To do this, I will be using a few tools to look for different contaminants: the Olympus Vanta Max pXRF to look for metals/metal ions, and UV light to look for certain types of organic material.
Now, because this involves color, I will be including pictures of all tested formations and noting what lights and cameras are used. My question is this: do I need to use a color card or a colorimeter? Both are quite expensive, and I have no idea how to go about using them.
Let me know if you need more info about the project.
Also, none of the tested speleothems will be damaged/removed.
Hi, I am about to start gathering data for a study on the coloration of speleothems (cave formations). To do this, I will be using a few tools to look for different contaminants: the Olympus Vanta Max pXRF to look for metals/metal ions, and UV light to look for certain types of organic material.
Now, because this involves color, I will be including pictures of all tested formations and noting what lights and cameras are used. My question is this: do I need to use a color card or a colorimeter? Both are quite expensive, and I have no idea how to go about using them.
Let me know if you need more info about the project.
Also, none of the tested speleothems will be damaged/removed.
I don’t remember what meteorite the first image is from I’ll check and add it here in a little bit: Seymchan IIE Pallasite Meteorite
I got the 3 nickel irons from a school that was getting rid of them and bought the palletise because I thought it was cool.
Making another post because I took a LOT of pictures all visible light photos were taken under a Convoy S2+ with a B35AM high CRI LED.
1-2) apatite under visible then 310nm uv.
3-4) fluorite/apatite under visible then 310nm uv.
5-8) catapleiite under visible then 365, then 310, then 255nm uv. (If you have info on this mineral hit me with it)
9-11) flourapatite (is this just apatite or is there a different?) under visible, then 365, then 310nm uv.
12-13) Beryl under visible, then 310nm uv.
14-15) orthoclase under visible, then 310nm uv.
16-17) no idea (garnet?) under visible the 310nm uv.
18-19) rhodochrosite(pink) under visible then 310nm uv (no idea what the orange is)
1-2) are calcite under 365nm uv then 255nm uv.
3-5) are also calcite under normal light (Convoy S2+ with B35AM LED) then 365nm uv then 310nm uv.
6-7) is an Elmwood calcite under normal light (B35AM) then 310nm uv.
8-9) is fluorite with Dysprosium intrusions under normal light (B35AM) then 365nm uv.
10-13) Lapis lazuli under B35AM, then 365nm uv, then 310nm uv, then 255nm uv.
14-16) syenite under B35AM, then 365nm uv, then 310nm uv.
17-18) aragonite under B35AM, then 255nm uv.
19-20) baryte under B35AM, then 310nm uv.
Sorry for formatting I’m on mobile.
Let me know if you have any questions