I'm sure Toyota has already thought of this so I'm not particularly worried, but I'm just wondering what screen protections there are since the climate controls are very static to the display. What if you go on a 7+ hour road trip (from southern to northern California, for example)?
So I just read that Google Maps is bringing EV route mapping to Android Auto. For people that use A Better Route Planner, do you plan on switching? Or are you really happy with ABRP?
Okay, I'll preface that I'm waiting for the California EV $3500 rebate to buy the bZ. The rebate isn't active yet so I haven't bought it and all they said that it was coming in late summer.
So I read that the 2027 models will be showing up in September. So the question is if the rebate comes in before the 2027 models come out, should I just buy the 2026 model now or wait until the 2027 show up. This is assuming that the rebate pool of money doesn't run out before I buy. This is the other factor to consider because I really want the rebate discount.
The model I'm targeting is the Limited version with the black/gray interior.
I didn't think I would love this lens so much! It's pretty great for both video and photo. I got it right before I went on a convention trip.
A lot of reviewers deemphasized the powered zoom but it's really incredible. It's so so smooth. You can do the traditional rotation of the ring to go from 20-50mm. This has a very traditional tension in how the ring moves. Almost zero tension. Or you can switch it to a W-T mode where it's powered, and you can very subtly feel additional tension. And this additional tension allows you to have greater control over the speed of zooming.
I didn't try it with the R6iii because I don't have that, but I did use it on my EOS C50, and you can use the W-T dial on the camera if you don't want to twist the ring on the lens. I felt like I had better control with the lens ring.
The lens does have optical image stabilization which works great for both video and photo. This range is super useful! I didn't think I would use this lens much as I had my work suite of lenses (10-20 f4, 28-70 f2, 70-200 f2.8). But I ended up using this lens a lot. I used the 70-200 when I was recording the people on the stage while using my monopod. I used the 28-70 when doing photos on my R5ii especially in low light. I used the 10-20 to set the environment and size of the crowd. And the 20-50 became my default lens on the C50 for pretty much everything else. I almost left the 20-50 at home and am so glad I didn't.
This post got moved to this subreddit because it was deemed low effort.
I didn't think I would love this lens so much! It's pretty great for both video and photo. I got it right before I went on a convention trip.
A lot of reviewers deemphasized the powered zoom but it's really incredible. It's so so smooth. You can do the traditional rotation of the ring to go from 20-50mm. This has a very traditional tension in how the ring moves. Almost zero tension. Or you can switch it to a W-T mode where it's powered, and you can very subtly feel additional tension. And this additional tension allows you to have greater control over the speed of zooming.
I didn't try it with the R6iii because I don't have that, but I did use it on my EOS C50, and you can use the W-T dial on the camera if you don't want to twist the ring on the lens. I felt like I had better control with the lens ring.
The lens does have optical image stabilization which works great for both video and photo. This range is super useful! I didn't think I would use this lens much as I had my work suite of lenses (10-20 f4, 28-70 f2, 70-200 f2.8). But I ended up using this lens a lot. I used the 70-200 when I was recording the people on the stage while using my monopod. I used the 28-70 when doing photos on my R5ii especially in low light. I used the 10-20 to set the environment and size of the crowd. And the 20-50 became my default lens on the C50 for pretty much everything else. I almost left the 20-50 at home and am so glad I didn't.
So this vacation trip (well, it was technically a work convention but we had a lot of time to do other things), I really used the quick share/airdrop feature extensively. On my Razr Ultra 2025 phone, it was hit and miss with iPhones. We were a pretty big group. I was able to find a few and share with them. Mostly by using the QR code though occasionally just finding it.
But it was nowhere close to being as reliable as my second phone (Pixel 10). That phone was able to see many more iphones and the QR code was extremely reliable.
I'd love my Razr Ultra to be just as reliable. It's a much faster phone so I can edit photos and videos faster than on the Pixel (my quick flow was to take photos and videos from my Canon cameras which send to my phone and then I do quick edits in Lightroom or Photoshop). I ended up quick sharing from my Razr Ultra to my Pixel and then sharing with iPhone people from the Pixel.
So I read some previous posts but the earliest was a year ago. What is the best way to bring this monopod. It's a YC Onion Pineta Pro Carbon Fiber Monopod with Pedal Base and FH60 Fluid Head so it's on the beefy side.
A decade ago, it was no issue as you could have a carry-on, a backpack and something like a sling. But the last time I traveled recently, the airline was adamant that everything had to fit either into the carry-on and backpack. So they wouldn't even accept a sling to be outside the carry-on and backpack. My backpack and carry-on were full, and I couldn't squeeze it in either. Anything outside would be charged a fee which I got. (Meanwhile I saw a guy carry a massive duffel bag which was bigger than my 3 items and got away with it, but I digress)
This is the one I really have wanted! It's still in beta so go check the beta apps.
Here is the link to native Windows on ARM but I don't see Indesign yet (maybe because it's beta?):
https://helpx.adobe.com/download-install/apps/system-requirements/apps-compatibility-copilot.html
Excited to hear that I get a bonus!
Sorry for posting as a JPEG because they won't allow me to post the spreadsheet. Maybe you can save so you can zoom in and scroll around? Hopefully it helps some. It's all the RAV4 trims, features, and options for the 2026 model year as it pertains to the US market (but should be pretty close for other regions)
I'm not specifically talking the Atari CX40 controller but any controllers on the Atari like the Epyx, Suncom, etc.
So when I play emulators and use controllers like the Xbox Elite Controller, the feel of the controls aren't quite right. Like the D-Pad is too responsive if that makes sense because an Atari joystick has a throw as opposed to an instant press of a direction. And the analog sticks have too much of a throw and seem less responsive. Also, the Atari had 8 way versus the near infinite way of an analog stick. So I find myself accidentally going diagonal at the worst times on an analog stick. I know I can use the d-pad but the d-pad doesn't have the right speed.
What I'm basically saying is the control is less precise for a lack of a better description than when using an Atari controller on an Atari computer/console. Is there a way to better approximate the feel in the emulator software? I've sort of adapted to the Xbox analog sticks for the Atari games but I would like to have that precision I had before.
I'm writing this to hopefully help some people out.
I was playing with the headset on my Xbox Series X. It's been working for many months. While I was playing Helldivers 2, I heard some chirping tones and then all the audio stopped in the headset. I though the game was glitching so I terminated and restarted the game but it didn't fix it. I then noticed I wasn't hearing any audio at the Xbox dashboard. I restarted the Xbox by holding the Xbox button on the controller and choosing the Restart option, and still no audio.
I noticed the dongle had no light. So I used the Audeze HD software on the PC to re-pair it. The headset with dongle works on the PC in PC mode. I see a white light. On the Xbox, there is no light turning on for the dongle. I tried to re-pair it in Xbox mode, but no success.
So this time I pulled the power on the Xbox. Waited about 10 seconds. Then plugged it in and turned on the Xbox. I then plugged in the dongle into the Xbox and it suddenly showed a light on the dongle while connected to the Xbox and you got the headset icon appearing on the Xbox. I also heard the headset saying it was connected to USB, and I could finally hear the Xbox audio.
So I saw that there was a new firmware for the R5ii. So I went ahead and downloaded and installed firmware updates for my R5ii, my C50, and my R50.
Normally when I do the firmware updates, it preserves my settings. But this time it didn't, and I didn't realize it until I got to the event. I had set up the lights and prepped the set. I had my "models" ready to go (not actual models, but owners of the company) for the ad shoot.
I turn on my C50 and everything looks different. I'm like, why is it ISO 400? It won't let me change the ISO. I can only choose ISO 400 or 3200. I'm like WTH, where is ISO 800 and 6400? Why is it not in open gate 7k30? Why are my resolution and bitrate options so limited? Then I realize a bunch of settings are off. The owners were starting to get impatient because one of them had to run to a Zumba class. So I just checked exposure and started shooting to get something.
Turns out the color space had defaulted to Rec709 instead of Canon Log 2. Under pressure, I didn't realize to check that the camera was properly set to CLOG2. So I shot the whole thing at the base settings. I didn't realize that there were so many restrictions in Rec709.
MEMO TO SELF: Do not change anything before a shoot
So I was comparing my R5ii and my C50 for photographing the full moon tonight. And my R5ii has 6x and 15x magnification. But my C50 has 5x and 10x. I read in the manual that the R6iii also has 5x/10x.
Is it merely because the R5ii has a higher resolution so they thought to increase the magnification?
Okay, it was driving me mad one day why editing a project in Adobe Premiere (version 26.2.0 (Build 65)) was so slow. Playback was stuttering. I was editing 10-bit 4:2:2 7k30 footage in h.265 format. I have a pretty beefy system (AMD 7900X with 128GB of system RAM with Nvidia 5090).
So I typically have my project files saved to OneDrive which is my cloud storage. One day, I decided to pause syncing (as files get updated on my system, it gets synced to the cloud). Well, that was a revelation because as soon as I paused syncing to OneDrive, playback was smooth and flawless even at full resolution. Maybe because at the location I was editing, the Internet wasn't as fast as at my home.
So PSA of the day is if you use cloud storage such as OneDrive, try pausing syncing to the cloud while editing. Once you're done for the day, you can resume syncing.
