Now that we’ve hit the scary feature ban date…
I find myself resisting going to both the sub as well as the website as why get tempted with something that’ll make Banburger sad.
Anyone else?
I love XCAL, and I'm most definitely a long term member and will continue to be. this is in no shape or form a dig against their business. especially how they're handling this entire ordeal! they rock as far as I'm concerned.
However, I'm considering pausing my membership till things get back to normal.
For the last 60 days (two monthly fees) I couldn't reserve time slots in a business friendly hour to go and shoot. and If I just show up in person, queue is insanely long. also, no sense in me paying 30$ for a private lane on top of my monthly membership.
for the time being, I'm going to peacemaker. but I don't believe this is scalable long term.
What are your thoughts? do you think things will cool down after August?
FWIW; I go to the range at least once a week.
Someone added “siegfried young” as his name on the queue at XCaL just now!
I have to say… I never thought I’d find it this amusing to hear someone shouting “siegfrieddddd siegfried young”
Any recommendations for fingerprinting in our area? Yes I know I’m late.
tl;dr does the serial of a Holosun EPS reveal MOA size? any other way of finding out?
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I have astigmatism, both 2MOA and 6MOA starbursts like crazy so can't really rely on my eyes to figure out the difference. also, don't have their respective boxes anymore.. I only have their serials.
I noticed they both start with EPS#G6... and EPS#R6.. I get the letter part, but was hoping the '6' means it's a 6MOA. however I noticed even my EPS Carry that is most definitely 2 MOA, starts with '6' so now I'm back to where I started.
Perfect for a suppressed home defense that has the same terminal ballistics as 300blk at self defense distances yet it’s fun and cost effective to train with!
TL;DR: HOA contractor installed Newport shaker cabinets with no filler strips on either end. Now has to reorder cabinets to make it work. He "fixed" one side by removing the shoe molding next to the fridge, but the other side still needs new cabinets. Also have questions about a ceiling gap on the uppers, yellowish interior shelves, and the toe kick situation.
Photos: https://imgur.com/a/Yuy5u3o
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My condo HOA hired a contractor to install new cabinets after a leak. He installed the whole run without any filler strips on either end — doors were touching the walls. I called it out, and now he's having to reorder cabinets because the originals were sized without accounting for fillers. On the fridge side, he removed the shoe molding from the adjacent wall to free up enough space to make it work without reordering that side. The other side still needs new cabinets. A few questions:
1. Filler / shoe molding: On the side he "fixed," the door clears now but knob handles will hit the wall at full swing once installed. Is that acceptable? More importantly — any long-term concern with removing the shoe molding next to the fridge? Should I insist it goes back? fwiw it disappeared next to the fridge as the entire 'wall' is about 1 foot.
2. Upper cabinet gap: There's a ½" gap between the front top edge of the uppers and the ceiling. Back is flush against the wall. Contractor says the ceiling isn't his scope. Is this normal, and what's the typical fix — crown molding, scribe strip, caulk?
3. Yellow interior: The shelves and interior walls of the cabinets are a yellowish natural wood color, not white like the exterior. Is this just how these cabinets come (natural birch inside)?
4. Toe kick: The bottom of the base cabinets shows unfinished wood at floor level. Contractor plans to cover it with a white adhesive paper strip. Is that standard, or should there be a proper toe kick board?
5. Warranty: The contractor bought the cabinets under his own Home Depot account, not mine. The HDC warranty says it covers the "original consumer purchaser" and requires proof of purchase. Should I be asking for copies of the receipts so I can make a warranty claim in the future if something goes wrong? Or does it not matter since the HOA hired him on my behalf?
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P.S: I didn't choose this contractor — the HOA did. Just trying to figure out what's worth fighting over vs. what's standard. Thanks!
EDIT: added photos
I know 22lr isn't entirely affected posted July but I'm considering going for this guy's bundle.
It's a Smith & Wesson MP15(AR15?)-22lr and a Taurus TX22c
both come with some cheap optics and a few mags.
https://vaguntrader.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2339184#Post2339184
https://vaguntrader.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2339183#Post2339183
I'd appreciate hearing your feedback about these two items, and if the bundle has a good price
fwiw; this is for plinking only.
If you own A300 ultima patrol ensure your drop/cast is aligned with your body. This is my public service announcement of the day
Easy fix inside the stock. By changing the drop/cast plate. I followed this tutorial https://youtu.be/HmqKEoTsFTc and changed it to my body type.
I first noticed the issue in my first shotgun class last week. I was slow to transition between targets on the move as my dot was too far off center from the bees unless I keep my head straight and loose my contact point with the stock! Apparently it was my drop! Fixed it from 60 to 50 and kept it DX as I’m a righty and now it’s perfect
Tl;dr is this normal for FM products? shot my first 50 rounds through my brand new FM9 and the charging handle as well as receiver are now completely scrapped as if I used them for years!
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Parts of The finish on the PCC charging handle and parts of the receiver are completely rubbed down to the bare aluminum along the contact points. I want to make sure it’s just standard break-in wear and not a lemon!
Fwiw my kuna and extar ep9 have a combined 40,000 rounds through them and haven’t had this level of damage!
P.S: I run all my guns extremely wet! So yes everything was cleaned and lubed. I used slip2000 EWL30 on all my rifles and never had this issue appear so early even on high caliber rifles with thousands of rounds
Tl;dr how do you change of pull on a AUP?
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Investigating my cast and drop on my new AUP by following this guy’s tips https://youtu.be/GPsKTGm4anM
AUP gave a drop/cast metal pin inside that you can turn around to match your body. Out of factory the grey version I have seems to have C60DX up. Which means for right shooter so that’s cool. I can confirm everything is lined up.
However length of pull is where it became weird! I followed the elbow crease to finger placement on all my rifles which was fine. But following his guidance I have 5.5 fingers between thumb and nose!
I read online that shotgun length of pull is a 4;1 ratio. So if I want to shorten by 1 inch, I just need to remove 1/4 inch. But I’m not sure how to do that
Edit: question is how to make it shorter. And yes they come with spacers that I never used. So removing them doesn’t help as they’re not installed
Had a shotgun training class today and about 50 shells in I noticed the pin started walking out. I pushed it back get after an hour or so it walked back out again.
Anyone experienced this? Any suggestions?
The pin I’m referring to is the one on the side right beneath the Velcro
Anything you found that helps us shoppers on a deadline?
$50 cheaper then the Berelli deal
I just picked up upper/lower FM9. And a few 30 round mags.
Any recommendation on range bags? This will be a dedicated bag that needs to hold 5x30 round mags + ear/eye pro as this will be my PCC match setup
Summer is nearing which means it’s going to get hot and In parallel me getting one year older.
I don’t want to haul my existing cooler with me on top of my range bag and portable chair. And yes I can get one of those rolling carts except It’s not doable for me as our stages have stairs between them so I’ll have to carry the whole thing between stages
The cooler I have currently fits around 15 cans or bottles of water. It works great for day at the beach! But not a half day of shooting.
So what do you guys use? Ideally something that can fit 2 bottles of water and a protein bar.
New to 22lr .
If you own a S&W MP15 22lr, what accessory did you get to make it your trigger pull shoot faster?
I thought of doing this to the tx22c but I figured I’d go with an AR15 style for better control at that rate of fire.
Tl;dr: I live in VA and standard capacity magazines are about to be banned unless they were bought prior to July1. Any suggestions on what new quality rifle to buy?
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I recently bought a plinker the smith and Wesson MP 15-22. Basically an ar15 with custom bcg in 22lr.
It shoots well but mags are bad and it keeps having failure to feed and failure to extract due to mag issues. to my understanding there’s no mag replacements so I’m considering selling it at a loss and buying a 10/22 and modernize it.
Any suggestions? Anything that’s better out of the box?
Goal of this is plinker but also ability to be used for varmint control if needed.
$883 with Bereli plus membership
Any idea why? I have it blue loctite and the right screw keeps walking out after a few rounds.
I’ve removed the optic/cleaned the path and screws and reinstalled it but it happened again.
Alternatively my competition compact has its own eps as well with the same screws (granted there’s a plate) and it survived thousands of rounds with no issue