u/helmetgoodcrashbad

The job started off as a simple trim replacement and we discovered major rot running throughout due to incorrectly installed flashing. We’ve been chasing the rot and water damage and this is where we’re at so far.

I’m billing hourly for this job at this point, but I’m just curious what the end number would be for most of you guys. Material expenses up to this point stands at about $6k and subs around $1k. Planning for another $1k max in expenses.

I’ll be seeing this job through to completion, including insulation wrap, sheeting, new siding, paint, and all trim work doing the rest of the work myself once sheathing is up.

I figure I’ll be looking at around 9 days in total on this job.

I was planning a build in a near exact style but I'm severely overwhelmed already with house projects and work in general. Also with Winter right around the corner I'd need this to be up in less than a month. Additionally I wouldn't be approved a building permit though my town due to setback issues so really would want a shed that can be dismantled if or when needed. It's common in my town for sheds and such to just be dismantled prior to sale due to permits not being pulled. My neighbour is fine with the build and I won't have issues though him which is the most important.

The shed would be build on a raised platform due to severely unlevelled and non removable rocky ground.

2020 XC90 t5 80k miles owned from new. Just finished another 800 mile yearly trip into Vermont loaded to the gills as usual. Family of 5 and six bikes. Factory folding hitch. Averaged 21 mpg.

Decided on 1x4 inch trim throughout the house. Finish the majority of the room and did this window last, realizing then that it overhangs the window stool. My first thought was to cut everything back and continue the trim straight down to the floor, but I’m going to have issues with the pipe work on the baseboard heating. Any suggestions?

I always like to try out new companies when they archive sales. Took advantage to pick up a fall jersey and a light winter. Love the print designs! Arrived in a weeks time from order shipped from Italy to the States

I’m having the Hudson Steel Miami Super gym C5 delivered in a week. Was so focused on finding a rig that I didn’t plan flooring and honestly didn’t think I’d settle on a decision so soon. My wife doesn’t want to rip up the carpet (even for 30+ years old it’s in really good shape and clean) and I also don’t have time to get flooring fully installed prior to delivery. What’s the best option asI can’t see this machine being easy to move once constructed.

Snapped off the tiny f**kin compression adjustment screw from my fork today with like zero force applied. Links to what ever I need would be a god send.

My space is limited, including a ceiling height of 85” but I’m considering adding a wall mounted cable based system such as the Torque Wall Mounted F9 (blue tape on floor marks width of F9). I’d love to add the Rep Altitude power rack with the Smith Machine and Cable attachment instead but concerned that my space is too limited for it. Anything wall mounted in the photos can moved but no further space options are available from what’s seen here. Considered the Tonal 1 due to space but not keen on the subscription fee of $60 monthly. 

Considering that I have 3 kids, who are still young (6-11), but all play Lacrosse, MTB and Ski are interested in strength training to some extent but I'm assuming as they age this interest will increase, a wife who mainly does HiTT and plays pickleball and myself who wants leg gains and lean muscle gains overall what’s my best option here?

Budget overall I’d like to see capped around $3500 but can go up to $4k. 

The red is our current door color. It’s in need of repainting and I’m debating on what color we should go with. The house is a late 70’s contemporary with cedar siding and were surrounded by trees on an acre lot. I’m not looking for a splash of color but something happy and bright would be welcomed although I’m leaning towards subtle and sophisticated.

Open to suggestions and welcome any advice.

Side note: I’m color blind and tend to have problems picking up certain shades.

This job was originally just supposed to just be vertical stone repair due to a few that had fallen off and a few that were loose. Once I got into it I found that a good amount of mortar had failed so I set about cleaning that up and resetting the stone work. That all went well.

The issue that I need help with is how do I cleanly replace the joint mortar? The existing mortar (client just asked for repair, not full replacement) is a very finely ground mix. Originally I went with an s type mortar mix but it looks far too gravelly compared to what’s in place. I then tried a non sanded and that was just wrong as well. The photo included is of the mix that I’m trying to match consistently wise as well as my attempt with the s type. I’m pretty confident you’ll be able to tell which is which.

Additionally, for love or money I cannot figure out how this curve was filled and perfected. Every attempt I made on the curves that needed filling, mortar fell out and would not hold in place. How in the world is this achieved? No amount on searching on YouTube is helping me out.

Approximately 1300-1500sf total of decking, (double the length behind me). This isn’t my first full deck refurbishment but definitely the largest. Quote included stripping the Ipe down to bare wood, removing the 15 years of semi solid stain that’s not been touched in 6 years, stripping down the seating areas, wood repair on a few of the backs, 2 sets of 8’ stair treads and transitions with 8 steps each, joist stripping from upstairs balcony and repainting, full sanding of all banisters and railings and finally full refinish with Cutex Extreme oil finish and Ben Moore for the white woodwork.

Including materials and 40 - 50 hrs estimated just for sanding and 2-3 weeks total work, weather dependent, my quote came to $14,950.