u/johnnydotexe

Finally decided to give automatic/self-cleaning litterboxes a try and after several hours of research I landed on the Purobot Max 3. Can't get it up and going until I do a store run tomorrow for litter since we only have tidy cats lightweight on hand, which I'm reading isn't ideal for these. We're going with fresh step's odor shield, many of the self cleaning box subs had good things to say about it.

Those of you that have this model, how has been working for you so far? How has the cleaning and maintenance process been working? It hasn't been out long so most of my research was based on other recent, but very similar models, and the reviews were promising compared to other options out there for less or more money. I just wanted something that does the job without all the cameras and AI.

Mods - For at least the last 6 months or so you have had a user in this sub, on two different accounts, sharing their own recommended item lists full of AliExpress affiliate links to new users looking for purchasing advice, and they are never transparent about those links. If you call the person out or warn others about it, the person blocks you so you can't see their comments anymore. They have been reported and complained about multiple times, including in the comments of the stickied mod search post. 4 months later, still a problem, he's just using a different account now because his last account got banned by Reddit...

Why has that user been allowed to continue doing this? If it's because there is no rule for affiliate links, then why not make one? You're not even asking posters of those links to make it clear that they are affiliate links. He continues to monetize his participation here, with a thin veil of "im helping others" applied. His posts haven't been very helpful for some time now, they've basically turned in to canned responses so he can do the bare minimum of "helping others" without getting banned for what he's actually doing.

Early on the user in question claimed that outdated stickied list is why they made their own lists, so perhaps it's time to update it? Not to mention the fact half the posts in here anymore are people asking what soldering iron or hot air station to buy, and there is still no auto-moderator set up to reply to those posts to link them to the (updated) guide.

On the topic of stickies and auto-mod replies...the joystick repair threads. A sticky with a few links to youtube video guides and the supplies needed would be a great candidate for an auto reply to threads about joystick repairs.

This sub is one of my favorites and I participate in it often, but it's feeling a bit neglected right now and I'm definitely not the first person to bring it up. There are only a couple of you and this place gets a fair amount of traffic, but you have plenty of free tools both on and off reddit available to you to make some or most of this easier to manage. If there is anything the community can do to help this place out, let us know...we don't hear from you very often.

Thank you for your time.

One of those "I'm pro-2a, but..." threads popped up and has a growing number of obvious astroturf accounts arriving in the comments to agree and attempt the "we need at least some common sense gun control, right guys?" garbage, and downvoting everyone else. This is them reacting to the recent NFA news, and it's one of the oldest tricks in their playbook.

For those asking, see the thread posted about an hour ago with the title "What “gun control” do you agree with?".

Know the signs and watch your six, friends.

Edit: They're now big mad about getting noticed and showing up in this thread.

Have never owned a Para 3 or micarta scales, so I decided to go all in. Grabbed the Para 3 Salt Magnacut from BladeHQ, Flytanium Lotus Micarta black scales from DNALasering on Etsy, satin TI hardware from Flytanium, and satin TI clip from LynchNW.

Came out way better than I could have imagined, very happy with it, absolutely becoming my new EDC. It's replacing an old and worn out BladeHQ exclusive Bugout that I put glow rhino scales on years ago. Out of the box, this blade is unbelievably sharp, shave quality. While working on it, at one point the blade swung on the pivot and gently tapped my knuckle which is now wrapped in a knifekits bandaid I got with a past washer order.

The Flytanium hardware matches up with the satin Magnacut blade quite well, but the clip is just a bit darker/duller...for anyone curious about the color matching.

I noticed that the pivot seemed like it might have been staked to one of the liners..or maybe I was just seeing things. Since it didn't have to come off I left it alone as to not damage anything.

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Couple of months ago, using Claude in a browser, I decided to have it help me make an app to knock out a task at work where a better or simpler tool didn't exist. To my surprise, it did exactly what I wanted it to. I became immediately addicted. Any time I thought to myself "there could be a simpler or easier tool for this task" at work or on my home network, I'd bring up Claude in a browser tab and we'd knock it out.

Eventually, I moved to Claude desktop and Github desktop. Then I moved to the Claude Code plugin in VS Code. Since then, I've started leveraging a global claude(dot)md file, 'project runbook' global skill files and templates, created a consistent UI theme and branding, learned how to set up sub-agents for the coding, file reads, and so on and let Opus or Fable simply orchestrate and confirm, built in all the approval/confirm gates so I'm in total control every step of the way, built in all the smoke-testing steps so I can personally review and test anything before it commits or gets released, a github action for shipping windows installers with my releases, build attestation, etc. Every time I'd change an app or create a new one, or when Claude would mess up or skip something, I would learn something, I'd have Claude learn it, and every change made my workflow better and/or more efficient. Claude helped me secure my repos, build in a pre-push scan with gitleaks, and stay focused on my "security/privacy-first" goal. I found myself becoming a professional "non-coder", if that makes any sense.

Now, any time I see a new idea or workflow here, I'll check it out, have Claude look it over, but it's to a point now where it mostly just tells me "Your workflow is better that most I've seen, I wouldn't change it any further." That won't stop me from trying to tune and tweak it further, of course. Out of curiosity, I fed my GH link to my other daily-use/Q&A Claude account and asked Fable to tell me all about it and the author, and I was surprised to see what it had to say..."Unusually disciplined for a hobbyist," "better security posture than most paid professionals," "notably disciplined," and so on. I can't take all the credit there, as Claude has played a huge role in those results, but doing IT for a living I was able to walk in to this with industry best practices, security standards, and project management experience to help direct it, manage the scope, and control the process...so I must be doing something right.

I now have 11 public repos, all free and source-available simple tools I built for myself to make my job or life easier. 379 commits and 52 releases since May 29th, the day I created my Github page. I don't think a single person, other than my wife downloading one of my apps, has visited my Github page...but I honestly don't care. It has become a fun, new hobby for me to enjoy outside of work, so I'm just doing it for the love of the game I guess.

So yeah, sorry about the wall of text. I just wanted to share my experience over the last couple months with Claude. It's been a blast, a great learning experience, and I've done it all on a $20/mo plan.

Just replaced the digitizer on my v2 switch (unmodded), and only getting touch along the bottom edge and left/right edges. No touch anywhere in the center or seemingly along the top. Where it does have touch, it's accurate.

I reported the issue to the ebay seller of the aftermarket digitizer and they'll be sending me a new one, but after doing some research, I'm starting to find that the above symptoms may be a known issue requiring me to picofly this switch so I can recalibrate the digitizer firmware on the game cartridge slot?

Just picked up a Pixel Watch 4, paired with my Pixel 8 Pro. Only being able to compare it to the one other smart watch I owned, a Galaxy 4 classic, it's definitely better...but with one quirk that has existed for at least 6 months now and likely a result of the change to WFF. When you download a watch face and change it (complications, color, etc)...those settings don't save if you switch to another face.

Has Google touched on that at all, or given any indication that it's going to be fixed in a future WearOS update? Has anyone figured out a workaround to make those settings save?

I just took my second to last shot from my first round, and have some questions about refilling since I'll probably need to do that at some point in the next week.

1. Is this still done on the gethealthie website? I recall a recent post about the new site going down for work.
2. I went with Hallandale originally, and no issues at all...but I noticed their BUD is 90 days and others are higher. Does this matter? Any other reasons to switch? I'm just doing the base formula, which appears to limit me to Hallandale and Apothecary.
3. Do I need to have another consultation? Does it work like the first one, where the consult fee goes towards the cost of the medication?
4. Will they automatically keep upping me to the next dose every month? I went from 2.5>5>7.5 on the first round. At what point is it maxed?

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Grabbed this from Ace yesterday during their Memorial Day sale for $100 off. Have a cover and front shelf ordered and on the way from Amazon. It was actually pre-assembled by the store which I didn't request and wasn't super thrilled about, but oh well.

I picked up Royal Oak 50/50 charcoal-hickory blend for the high and fast grilling, and Pit Boss Competition blend for the low and slow smokes I have planned...options are slim in my rural area but those seemed well reviewed. Went through the burn-in process this morning, had a little "oh crap" moment when it took 5-6 minutes for pellets to start dropping in, for a moment I thought I was justified about being a bit frustrated that I didn't build it myself, but it finally got going and finished the cycle without an issue. Overall, it's very easy to use, and appears to be very easy to clean. The mobile app works well on my Pixel 8 Pro, too. This replaced an old Char-Griller barrel charcoal grill and a Masterbuilt 30" electric smoker, the goal was consolidation and ease of use and it seems to tick both boxes.

Questions for those of you that have had your Searwoods for a while now...

1. I liked grilling over charcoal for the flavor, which is why I went with that Royal Oak 50/50 blend. However, since I was doing a high/fast cookl (400-450f @ 10~ mins), I got maybe a hint of smoke flavor on the food (just cheap frozen premade seasoned angus patties and johnsonville cheddar brats, we're easy to please I guess). Should I run a smoke tube full of straight charcoal pellets, or maybe start the cook low and slow with SmokeBoost before finishing at a higher temp? Or am I facing an inevitable reality of grilling with a pellet smoker instead of a charcoal grill?

2. What pellets have you found yourself liking the most for every day stuff like burgers, pork butt/pull pork, and ribs? What pellets tend to be the most consistent in performance and flavor?

3. Do you keep pellets in the hopper, and if so, have you noticed any issues doing so? If you do empty the hopper after cooks, or before storing, or to change pellets...how do you run out what's in the bottom of the hopper and auger? The trap door seems like it would only mostly empty the hopper, but not what's in the very bottom.

4. Have you ever taken a look at the fan underneath, to determine if it gets caked up with dust/debris over time?

Have a DS lite on the workbench that had a bad top LCD, USB port, and whooped shell, got that all replaced and it refuses to read DS carts for some reason (didn't test prior to working on it). The pins all look like they're at the right height, they're all clean, tested continuity between each pin in the slot with their corresponding pad on the board, reflowed the pads, cleaned the pins multiple times, used deoxit on them, inspected the board multiple times under a digital microscope, lifted the end of an inserted cart to have it angle down on to the pins more just in case it is a contact problem, etc. It reads GBA carts just fine. Yes, the multiple DS carts I tried are all known good and tested on other consoles.

Before I jump down the rabbit hole on testing each pin against a working board or trying to find a replacement slot...any known issues that would cause this, assuming it's not the pins?

Dug these up out of storage. Couple of old rigs that my Dad and I bought or traded in to back in the 90s, when we used to race 1/10 pan cars at the local hobby shop. The one on the left is a Kyosho, but no idea about the one on the right...something that has been heavily modified I guess, even has a carbon fiber pan on it which probably explains the lack of logos/branding.

Still trying to track down 2 of the 3 pan cars, Trinity Switchblades IIRC, and probably some other RCs I've long forgotten about. Haven't found our box of Novak ESCs and Trinity brushed motors yet, but they're still around somewhere I'm sure.

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I haven't seen anything mentioned about the third vial shipping. Something I received early on, a chat maybe in the gethealthie portal, said to expect it week 7-8.

Bonus Question: In the gethealthie portal, there doesn't seem to be a way to start a new chat with the support team. I have messages from my provider, Vanessa (the greeting/thank you message), and messages about general info and a new portal. I replied to the Vanessa message, but wasn't sure if that would end up getting to anyone. How does one ask a question like this in the portal?

Just picked up an '09 Grand Cherokee 5.7 AWD and it has two very whooped and dead key fobs. I noticed there are shells on amazon so I tried to take one of mine apart and mangled it, and its design and the PCB are unlike anything I see in the Amazon listings or google image/video search.

So my question is...do any of the amazon key fob shells fit the board type I have, or do I need to buy new complete fobs and jump through hoops to program them? I can throw a battery back in to the non-destroyed fob if needed, and pray it still works.

Key fobs that came with my '09 Grand Cherokee.