Just picked up this roll. Came in a canister but no box. Trying to identify its age for exposure/development compensation. There are no DX contacts so I will assume it’s older than 1983. I can’t really find much more solid date identifying info past that. Any help would be appreciated, even getting it down to the decade would be better than nothing. For now I’m going to assume ‘75-80.
Took along a roll of Purple when I went to Atlanta Botanical Garden back in April.
My collection of Minolta lenses is becoming one of my most solid! Only two left that I really want: the 100/2.8 macro and the 135mm f/2.8 STF
I’m looking for recs for snorkel masks that work well with beards. I’m also nearsighted so if they have corrective lenses that’s a plus! I’ve bought a couple of cheap ones on the jungle site and they leak really badly.
I guess finally acquiring this lens means I’m a full card carrying member of the Minolta Club. (I actually got two of them recently, the other came with a lot of other stuff but it has fungus spots on the front elements.) This one was attached to a 7000 that proceeded to start smoking when I popped in fresh batteries. No big deal since it cost me less than $30 and the glass is immaculate!
I want to buy a 100ft roll of ISO 400 to bulk roll into 12exp rolls for camera testing. I need a film stock that’s reliably consistent and on the cheaper end. Inwas planning on getting a roll of Kentmere Pan 400 from FPP for $82 but they are out of stock. Here are some alternates I’m considering:
Lucky SHD400 $65 (reflx lab)
Ultrafine Ultramax T-Grain 400 $75 (photo warehouse)
Ultrafine Xtreme UXF 400 $85 (B&H)
Non-ISO 400:
Flic Film Ultrapan 200 $75 (Adorama)
Do any of you have suggestions on why or why not to get any of these.. or know of anywhere cheaper?
Thanks in advance
My 814 electronic I picked up a couple months ago seems to work (though I haven’t film tested yet) except the manual aperture knob
Doesn’t seem to make any changes when watching the aperture through the gate. When it’s on auto, it opens and closes with brightness and darkness. Is this a common issue?
So over the past few months, I have been buying up lots of expired film, mostly in unopened 4 and 5 packs to allow for a proper test roll of each set. I want to make a repeatable plan for testing the first role of each box to get an idea of how it has aged. My current plan is to shoot the first roll of each box bracketing every image 3 times +1,+2,+3. (ie Superia 400 shot at 200,100, & 50) Most of the film sets I have are Gold 200 and Superia 400, with a couple dozen boxes of Konica VX 200 and 400. The majority of this film has exp dates between 2005-2009.
I will make these test shots with the same camera/lens combo (probably my Pentax Super Program w/ 50/1.7)
If I notice that +3 stops is excessive on the “fresher” stock I may switch to +1,+2 and get more images per roll.
I also plan to try to get at least one shot per roll in the following situations: bright sunlight, overcast/cloudy, soft indirect light, and golden hour and I will take a reference image with fresh film.
I will also record my meter settings for each shot.
Do any of you see anything wrong with this method, aside from only getting 8 pictures/roll? Anything you would do differently?
Took out my (new to me) 9xi a few weekends ago and shot a roll of Kentmere Pan 400. I finally got around to scanning film last night and I am LOVING this setup. Focus is fast and fairly accurate. Can’t wait to see how this lens does with color (I already shot a roll of color on my 7000i with this lens, but it’s in my bag of film to develop.)
I developed this roll with XTOL 1+1 12min @ 20C for those interested.
All of them have 2004 exp dates and stored in a “cool room” (I’m guessing just room temp). I think the delta 100 and pan f will be fine shooting at box speed (maybe I’ll drop down to 50 on the 100), but what should I shoot the 400? I was thinking 200 or maybe 160 might work. I will be developing with XTOL, unless there is a better dev I should use.
Input is appreciated.
So I last night I won an auction for a Minolta 7000 for $46, not because I wanted the camera… but because of the attached lens! Does anyone else have a collection of unwanted/unused/parts cameras due to buying OTHER stuff in the listing?
I think I’m up to around 8 or 9 minoltas now. A few work perfectly. But I only see myself ever using my 9xi and 7000i.
What should I do with my parts/extras cameras? I wonder if the working ones are really worth the hassle of trying to sell.
This is my first time printing TPU. I was expecting a trainwreck, I only had a tiny bit of cleanup to do, just a few strings on the inside.
I’ve started a 2nd batch after this success. Trying 3 this time. I separated them a bit to prevent a too many thick strings between them. I really hope it isn’t too much extra cleanup as I have 9 more to print and I don’t feel like doing this 9 more times
Looks like I finally have my printer dialed in!
Anyone recognize what’s printing?
A few years ago when I first got my Ender, I bought this smooth PEI build plate and it makes some beautiful surfaces. At some point I adjusted incorrectly and the print head made contact with the plate slightly and scuffed it up. It was only a little bit, but it still shows up on my prints and I would like to replace it. I bought one that I thought was smooth and it was actually slightly textured so I sent it back. Do any of you have recommendations with links for smooth build plates? I don’t want glass shiny, just a nice matte surface is perfect.
SOLVED: Tech contacted me, looks like Crud bounced around during shipping and settled on the prism. Removed focus screen and blew it off of the prism with compressed air, almost all of it is gone now
Just got my AE-1P back from CLA and everything else is great, but it doesn’t look like the VF was cleaned on the prism. I had my other AE-1P serviced by the same guy and it came back immaculate. Am I expecting too much if I ask them to fix this?
I shot these in Nov. ‘25. Same day, different locations.. before and after sunset.
A package from LA arrived today.. my buddy who directs music videos and commercials sent me these short ends he had left over from a film test for a shoot he did last year. There is an estimated 25ft left of 250D and 15ft of 500T. Single perf 16mm. When I get my 110 cartridge situation figured out..(used carts or 3D printed ones) I plan on bulk loading a couple of each for testing.
Scored this little guy in an auction for $34! It even has the battery holder, flash connector caps, a little case (that’s seen better days) and an original lens filter!
When I print large objects, my ender 3 is having major issues with first layer adhesion on the far edges of my build plate. The center has extremely good adhesion, probably too much, but when the head goes to about 20% from the left and right edges, many of the first layer lines just come off of the plate. This pretty much limits me to using only half of my build area.
I have leveled my build plate as good as I can get it with the paper method, though the center gets REALLY tight when the edges are good. I’ve used the octopi bed level visualizer and it verifies this, looks like a house roof.
I am currently using the creality magnetic build plate and I’m wondering if it’s time to upgrade to a glass build plate or is there something else I could do?
Do any of you have the AB-82 or similar split image focus screen on your 645n? I am considering buying a couple more manual A series primes, but I’ve already noticed a couple of my shots weren’t focused correctly, though I had focus confirmation. I think I would feel more comfortable with a split prism.
Also, how difficult are the focusing screens to swap out on the 645n? Ive done SLRs before and some can be a PITA.