
Well, guess I know what I'm doing this weekend
Just arrived, but my kid wants to help me with the new build so I have to wait until she's out of school.

Just arrived, but my kid wants to help me with the new build so I have to wait until she's out of school.
Wasn’t paying attention and screwdriver accidentally slipped right into the fins am I cooked or am I good?
I'm no stranger to water-cooling, but I've never seen a block this corroded in one of my machines. When do you call it quits? When to replace?
I had tried the mystic fog coolant against everyone's recommendations, and like so many, it started to run clear after a few days. Instead of changing it right away, I just said "you know, I'll change it when my temps tell me it's time" which never happened. After a while I got tired of looking at it and decided to flush the system and I found this. I've yet to see how bad my mobo water block is.
What would y'all do?
Can anyone help with this noisy aio fan problem, it just started happening and i got this pc around a year ago from nzxt
DAE have a love hate relationship with this hobby? I love the final product, and most of the journey to get there, but today I’m beginning to lose my patience. Spent 2.5 hours draining my loop (poorly designed loop in terms of maintenance, featuring a vertical rad and a vertical GPU), and then I saw plasticizer leaching on my CPU block. And then I noticed it on my GPU block as well. And now I’m tearing down both blocks to clean them. I’m just so mad at myself and at this whole hobby for its level of difficulty. 🙄
Just me, or anyone else?
I’m 10,000% adding another drain port in my loop to make future drains easier.
I am looking to add an additional 480mm rad to my current build. I am semi new to watercooling and have learned a couple things the hard way to include the need for a solid rinse of the radiator prior to running in a loop as all the flux and bs coats everything if not.
I used EK super flush and loop cleaner after that happened and rinsed with distilled after. Then had to take apart blocks to finish cleaning. I don’t want to go through that again.
I have heard multiple ways to flush them prior to running to include just distilled, distilled and vinigar, super flush ect but wanted experienced people to guide me in the right direction.
Currently I have my cpu on an aio and my gpu on a loop being cooled by a 360mm x45mm rad. I am going to be including my cpu into the loop and will be adding a 480mm. Any helpful guidance will be appreciated.
I’m working on a DIY cooling setup using an Eight Sleep Pod 5 King cover that I currently own (no pod) as the mattress-side water grid, but replacing/bypassing the Eight Sleep hub with my own external cooling loop.
The goal is cooling only for now. I don’t care about heating. I also don’t want a permanent bucket/reservoir sitting in my bedroom, so I’m trying to build this as a mostly closed loop with fill/bleed/drain ports.
I’m posting because I’d like people to tear this apart before I buy everything. If there’s a flaw in the flow rate, pressure, tubing assumptions, pump choice, chiller choice, noise, condensation risk, etc., I’d rather find out now.
The main inspiration was this Truffle Security post:
https://trufflesecurity.com/blog/removing-jeff-bezos-from-my-bed
They used an Eight Sleep cover and connected the tubing to an aquarium chiller. That made me realize the useful part of the Eight Sleep system, for my purposes, is really the water-circulating cover.
I also looked at a bunch of other DIY / repair / teardown posts:
I like the Eight Sleep cover concept, but I don’t love being locked into the official hub/cloud/subscription ecosystem. I’m mainly trying to get a reliable cooling setup that is:
I looked into thermoelectric/Peltier options because they’re closer to how Eight Sleep seems to work, but most DIY-friendly TEC setups look either underpowered, inefficient, noisy once fans are included, or expensive enough that I might as well use the official hub.
So I’m leaning compressor chiller.
Basic loop idea:
Eight Sleep Pod 5 cover outlet
-> small 12V brushless inline pump
-> aquarium compressor chiller
-> Eight Sleep Pod 5 cover inlet
Service ports:
High point:
T-fitting -> valve -> capped fill/bleed tube
Low point:
T-fitting -> valve -> drain hose to bucket
I do not want a permanent reservoir. I’m okay using a bucket only when filling, bleeding, or draining.
Poafamx / AL-160 / 42 gal / 1/10 HP aquarium chiller
Amazon examples I found:
Reasoning: It’s a compressor model, relatively affordable, and some listings claim under 35 dB. I’m skeptical of that number, so I’d test it myself and return it if it’s loud.
TOPSFLO TL-B10-A12-0703 or similar 12V brushless DC pump.
Target pump specs:
12V DC
~7 L/min
~3 m head
~6–8 W
continuous duty
inline capable
not dry-run safe
Reasoning: This seems closer to the pump class used in older Eight Sleep units than a big aquarium pump. I originally looked at Sicce Syncra pumps, but they may be overkill flow-wise.
12V DC power supply, probably 2A minimum, ideally UL-listed.
Silicone tubing, but I’m not buying final adapters until I physically measure the Pod 5 tubing ID/OD.
Stainless worm-drive or Oetiker clamps on every barb. No zip-tie-only connections.
Still undecided here. I don’t want to use anything that might damage the Pod cover or tubing.
Basically: does this look reasonable, or am I about to build a quiet-looking but actually loud/leaky mattress aquarium?
Would appreciate any criticism, especially from people who have torn down Pods, repaired leaks, built DIY chillers, or measured the noise on these aquarium compressor units.
How will temps be like if I used an external radiator (420mm) with a 58mm thickness rather than a Corsair XR5 280 and an EK CoolStream Classic SE 240?
Specs:
Ryzen 7 7800X3D
Liquid Devil 7900 XTX
Fittings : Undecided
Tubing: 12mm or 14mm and EK ZMT with Quick Disconnects
Pump/Block/Res: EKWB Quantum Velocity 2 DDC 4.2 Pump/Block/Res Unit
I also need advice on which fittings to use? I'm thinking 12mm tubing with Bitspower classic fittings but worried about a leak or the Thermal Grizzly DeltaMate fittings but they only come in 14mm
The concept resin case is still holding up so I wanted to raise the stakes for the next build. Replaced the acrylic front plate on my cpu block to eliminate the need for fittings. This will also allow for some very low profile solutions in small cases. You can do some interesting things with the fluid path once you get away from subtractive manufacturing.
Temperatures should be well within the limits for this clear v5 resin, but nothing like some real world testing. Full build, as well as a new video coming soon
hi, i bought a RTX 4070 Ti Super AI top OC without original air dissipator. I thought that PCB was the same of the other gigabyte 4070 and to use a waterblock but asking tò seller bykski waterblock it's no compatible. What do you suggest? Can i try to adapt or maybe go use a Universal gpu cooler and add RAM air dissipator?
After moving i had to leave my rig at home in a few months ill be going back to bring the rest of my stuff to my new home.
I left my rig shutdown but with cooland still in it Koolance blue
Im expecting staining but for getting the rig back up and running what kind of cleaning should I expect for the GPU and CPU blocks/rads and the pump.
Normally I have no issues just leaving it running for months or years at a time with minimal maintenance.
After a fellow r/watercooling redditor said I don’t need a 45mm thick rad I took their advice and just got my AC 360 rad installed. First thing I noticed was that it was quieter than my Corsair. I think it has to do something with fans being right up against the fins on the Corsair. But I’m happy with the build. What are your thoughts.
If you weren’t here for my other post here are my specs:
14900k OC @ 5.8ghz All cores
RTX 5080 OC @ 3.2ghz
Z790 Hero
Fractal Define 7 Compact
EKWB Velocity DDC Pump Res Block
AC 5080 Epic X Core block
AC 240 Rad
AC 360 Rad
EK soft rubber tubing
EK Compression Fitting
Aqua Computer DP Ultra Coolant
Aqua Computer inline water Temp sensor
WaterTemp under load - 32°C / 89°F
WaterTemp Idle - 22°C / 71°F
CPU load - 78°C / 172°F
GPU Load - 47°C / 116°F
Ambient - 20°C / 68°F
The deltamate arrived and wow just wow this block looks heavenly.
My cpu temp is going up to 88°c and the pc was restarting automatically. I got it checked and the support guy said your AIO cooler is gone and he is recommending to me to get a 360mm cooler. Existing was 240mm.
Here's a catch - my ambient temperature goes as high as 47°c here and I'm living in one of the hottest cities (probably) in the world right now. One of my friends is suggesting that I get a fan radiator because it's less mechanical so less chances of failure. Please suggest what I should get so that my cpu won't go above 70°c while gaming?
Thanks in advance!
Hey everyone, I want to buy a Thermalright AIO. I know they are pretty well received but there is so much variety and a lack of a lot of in-depth reviews so I was hoping to ask these questions here.
For AIOs with the pump in the CPU block it seems they all use the Core v1.0 pump. Can I assume these all perform the same then and it's just down to the aesthetics and fans on the radiator for differences? It's only 2100rpm so I assume I'll have to run it at 100% most of the time, unless the sweet spot is lower, is it noticeably loud?
Some of the newer models, like the Stream Vision, have the pump in the radiator. This seems like the better option since its a newer pump and can go up to 6400rpm. However since it will sit at the top of my case between 1ft-2ft from where I sit I am worried about the noise. I'd probably lower it to about 2000rpm but I'm worried it would still be loud due to the position of the pump. Any experience with this?
This one is not Thermalright specific but should I be concerned about VRM temps? I'm only running a 7600x3d on a motherboard with decent power delivery, TUF B650m-e wifi, and operating temps are rated high but want to ensure the longevity of my parts. I'd look into getting an AIO with a VRM fan if it matters.
So I've leak tested my build that I've put back together and everything worked flawlessly. However, when I began filling with the actual coolant (type in title) I started seeing those waves within the coolant as it got sucked down. I don't think I should be worried since it's probably just some of the additives that are supposed to be in the coolant, but wanted to make 100% sure
Hey everyone, my setup is almost finished and now I’m choosing the coolant for my custom loop.
I’m thinking about using an electric blue coolant because my case is white, and I think the contrast would look really clean. But before I buy anything, I wanted to ask for your recommendations first.
Which coolant would you personally recommend and why?
I care about:
Would you go with clear coolant + blue lighting, or an actual blue coolant?
Thanks in advance 🙏
I decided to try something new and milled myself a distro plate from cherry wood. I know wood isn't compatible with liquid, I plan to seal it up with epoxy to make it waterproof. I also still need to mill the acrylic top and pump mount, so still a work in progress. What do you guys think?