u/AnnualFlat8833

With good explanations from a couple other threads I'm not much more educated on the gullet.

I just checked 2 new chains and the 7/32 file does not fit cleanly into belly of the C shape, leaving a space. If I sharpen a few strokes as described below, it does fit and the gullet "hump" mostly goes away.

So, that begs the question (for me anyway) is it worth filing a NEW CHAIN in this fashion, or just use the damn thing and catch it the first time it needs sharpening??

"So what happens is: You come in deep with downward pressure and target the bottom of the tooth, then as the file works back in there it reshapes the center of the side plate into a C.

As the file continues to cut, it ends up on the underside of the tooth working on that as well.

If you do this correctly, it sharpens everything into a C which matches the diameter of your file."

First new gas saw in nearly 20 years and I have seen bits about the autotune breaking in differently. Husky's info is almost non-existent.

Advice I've seen on breaking this saw in seems to run from wrap in a blankie and coddle it for a year, to start it right up and go after the biggest tree i can find.

How would you break this in?

Arriving tomorrow, not sure which chain it comes from the factory with (semi or full chisel) but know I'll buy more. Wonder what you've used on your 562 or similar saws?
I cut almost only all pine, fir, spruce, aspen. Small stuff up to 36" and larger. I've run semi-chisel in my 450 Rancher, imagine I should try full chisel here?

Also in the past have only used Husqvarna chains, should I try Oregon and others?
Your experience valued - thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/v1v0c4k3df0h1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7b85e17b29c6eb2a26176f248bf492e7bb32f447

A spruce? Colorado, 8,000' elevation

Can you I.D? Colorado, 8,000 ft elevation

I have an older Rancher with a 20" bar, does a lot of what i want done but I need a little more power and a 24" bar.

I'm also at 8,000' elevation and need either fuel injection or maybe the Husky's Autotune will work better for me. Ordered a 564xp, which seemed a perfect fit, and with the delays I may give up on ever getting it.

Both the 550 and 562 mark 2 have been recommended. I wonder if the 550 is enough of a next level for me.

Thoughts on these, and what else should i be conisidering?

I'm using redwood for lots of interior trim. Windowsills, window jambs and casing, baseboards and misc trim details.
I will experiment with different products and am hoping to get good suggestions here.

I want to have more of an matte oil finish look, as opposed to gloss.

I want to have the color and grain show as close to natural as possible. And to not fade out or darken any more than possible.

Not concerned too much with waterproof and durability issues other than window-sills.

I am seeing advice on using a matte finish polyurethane sealer, or a hard wax oil. Products I am seeing i should consider are Waterlox, Osmo... and each have a variety of products.

I'm open to any experience out there... like i said, I am planning to experiment with different products.
Thanks!

Can't get clarity from Husqvarna or Oregon. .043, .325 for Oregon Speedcut Nano 80TXL054

Anyone know?

I'm laying 5" wide, 3/4" solid pre-finished Hickory over new 3/4" t&g osb subfloor, over engineered i-joists on 16" centers. (Subfloor is super well ring shank nailed)

Ideally, I would like to run the flooring parallel to the floor joists. I know in the old days (when i did it more often) this was frowned on. Any of you current installers have a recent experience, with the materials and process I've noted?

Excitedly waiting... anyone who has had one on back-order having it come in?