u/Beneficial_Ball9893

I was able to get my 2h polearm and 2h sword fairly quickly because their high damage design is early on in the tech tree, but getting parts for a 1h sword is SLOW AS FUCK.

What designs do you guys use to grind out 1h sword parts?

7 episodes of the other characters trying to make him lie about things, acting as if it is some sort of personality quirk, when really it's like telling a 10 years sober alcoholic that they were more fun when they were drunk all the time.

I don't know the term for this. "Fantasy" doesn't make sense because in these sorts of worlds there is either no magic and non-human races or a more 'grounded' and vague system.

Mount and Blade is an example of what I am thinking of, the games take place in a medieval setting in a fictional region with fictional factions. There are no dragons or elves or magic or anything, but it also isn't a historical game because it isn't our history, and alternative history also doesn't make sense because it isn't our world.

I could not find any answers on the internet when I searched, and luckily my buddy and I figured it out. I forgot to take photos, but here is my best explanation.

First, start by jacking up the grader so you can place blocks under the "boxes" that the tires are attached to. I used large 12x12 blocks and some 2x4s. While facing the grader from the tire side of each box, the drain is on the left hand side on the bottom (the boxes are not mirrored, this is true for both boxes). Drain the oil. You will need several 5 gallon buckets.

Remove the tires, the guards for the air pipes, and the access panels, including the circular panel for the differential. Make sure the grader is set to neutral.

To crank the differential and turn the chains, you can make a tool using a piece of angle iron and some 3/8 bolts. I imagine there already exists a tool for this purpose, but the angle iron tool worked for us. You can also put the lug nuts back on so that you can use a long bar to turn the wheels without hurting the threads (brace the bar on the lug nuts rather than the threads). Every chain has a master link with two pins holding them on. Each master link should line up with the access panels at the same time. Remove the master links.

You need two people. Get on each side of the box, using the left and right access panels, and reach in. You can lift the chain and pull to get the chain off of the gear. Take the chain of the central gear first, then grabbing the end of the chain, pull it out through the opposite top access panel from its tire. It should slide free, but it is very heavy. It helps to have a tarp on the ground.

To put a chain back on you want to first feed it in under the central gears, and when enough of it is through, feed it over the top of the gear too. The tire gear is tricky because there is not enough room to fit your hand inside the small space. We fed a string in from the top and tied it around the last link so we could provide pressure while feeding it onto the gear. Turn the tire gear by rotating the wheel until the chain is fed. You may need to go back to the central gear and use the lift + pull trick to align the chain properly- remember that the master link has to line up with the panel on BOTH chains once installed.

Tensioning the chain is very difficult. To start with I recommend turning both the tire gear and the central gears manually to loosen up the chain as a starting point. To bring the ends of the chain together, we used a windlass system with a cord. Take a very thin rope or cord, and wrap it around the two closest 'rods' of the opposite links (the ones that the master link slides in to) several times to magnify force. The threaded studs on the top of the box used to secure the air pipe shield work great as anchoring points.

If you wrap the cord 4-5 times and one guy pulls, while the other occasionally wiggles the tire gear, eventually it will be close enough that the master link can be put back in. A very large pair of channel locks is good for getting that last little bit. Put the master link back together, put the pins back in, and the chain is secured.

That is how you replace, change, add, or remove the drive chain on a CAT 130g Grader.

If I am wrong and you hate this process then PLEASE link me to the intended instructions because I could NOT find them when I needed them.

I don't think I have ever played a game before where I got stuck on the tutorial, but the directional inputs for attack and blocking are just not intuitive for me. Maybe the default settings aren't working for me, but I feel as if my attacks and blocks are just in completely random directions. Even after hours (hours!) of practice in the tutorial zone I am still not very good at it and I can't block in the direction I want every time. To clarify, I was only stuck on one part of the tutorial, longsword with veteran trainer, for half an hour, but I do not want to leave the tutorial area until I am at least competent with the combat system and that just isn't happening.

How many of you use movement input instead of look input? Is it better? I really want to play this game in the intended way but I am struggling.

To clarify, I was only stuck on one part of the tutorial, longsword with veteran trainer, for half an hour, but I do not want to leave the tutorial area until I am at least competent with the combat system and that just isn't happening.

I have been experimenting with Opus 5 just to check it out and the restrictions are baffling.

While attempting to run a 1930's noire adventure, I came upon "API is returning an error" and I could not figure out why, until I switched back to 4.6 and then realized it was in content.

Any mention of Nazis bricks the AI instantly.

Nazism is a hard NO for Opus 5, not even writing scenes where I infiltrate a Nazi rally like in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Which is bizarre, because it WILL do NSFW very easily.