u/Camninja

I can buy a 12k mini split for less than a 9k btu.

It’s only 3k btu. Plus, it is an inverter system, so it should be able to ramp down.

There’s an 8k window unit in the room now, which seems to do fine.

I know the downsides to oversizing equipment.

Has anyone installed a 12k btu unit in a room and regretted not going with a smaller unit?

2009 Dodge Dakota

I had the flashing lightning bolt on my dash. I then experienced some hesitation.

I had it OBD2 scanned and no relevant codes came up.

I restarted the truck and it seems to be running fine for now. It looks like the light is for the electronic throttle. Has anyone experienced this? What was the fix?

I see that there are 2 day tickets. It also looks like they allowed the days to split up.

What I don’t understand is the 2 day tickets in the section I’m thinking about are the same price as a single day. This is on stubhub. What am I missing? I would think the split up 1 day would go for significantly less.

I measured a stacked unit and it had a 26 inch depth. How much space would the dryer vent connection add. I would think that is what will make it protrude the most (not the water connections or electrical). It’s a concrete block wall, so a recessed vent isn’t an option.

I’m thinking about converting the washing machine spot into a stacked washer dryer. This will free up floor space where the dryer is.

I only have 65 inches between a back and front wall.

The span is 60 inches. I have a toilet and vanity. The toilet flange requires 15 in clearance from wall and vanity.

That gives me 30 inches for vanity. If I go with a 30in vanity, one side will be touching the other wall.

The other option would be 24 inches. I would need to leave a 3 in gap as code requires 15 inches from center of sink to wall.

What size should I go with? Is it really cramped feeling with a 30in vanity?

I bought off stubhub. I was redirected to Ticketmaster to retrieve the tickets, which I did. This is when I noticed the tickets were not aisle as stated in the listing. I remember it saying the tickets came from Kyle. I assumed that was the seller.

I complained to stubhub and they tried to get out of it even going as far as saying I was lying, and my confirmation email states nothing about aisle seats. I pulled up the email and it did say aisle seats 1 and 2. I received seats 7 and 8. The agent hung up/disconnected chat after saying I was wrong again.

I finally got a good agent that escalated it again. She then cancelled the order. I received an email saying stubhub couldn’t fulfill the order and to send the tickets back. I sent the tickets back to stubhub through Ticketmaster.

I thought everything was fine. I then received an email from Ticketmaster saying that Mark had the tickets transferred to him. I assumed that stubhub sold the tickets again, but the seats were still up on their site.

Now, my stubhub account is under review and they may not issue the refund. What happened as far as all the transfers go?

I bought some concert tickets. I searched numerous stadium sections to find aisle seats and paid a premium for them. I currently have a medical condition that’s the reason for aisle. They sent me tickets in the middle of the row.

I did customer support chat and they said I would be protected by the fan guarantee and escalated it to a different team. The concert is today, and I didn’t hear back. I chatted with support again. The guy said the escalation team ruled against me and said the screen shots were for seats I didn’t purchase. He said to check my order confirmation. Well, I did. It said aisle seats in the seller description and seats 1 and 2. The seller sent 7 and 8. I told the support agent this and implied I was lying and hung up/disconnected the chat. Stubhub reps are so dishonest.

I started a new chat. It took her awhile and she said that my fan guarantee kicked in and that is why I got seats 7 and 8. She said the original aisle seats couldn’t be fulfilled, so stubhub got me the other tickets.

I still said I needed aisle seats due to a recent medical issue and would rather not go if I couldn’t be accommodated with my original purchase. She said they could give stubhub credit and I agreed.

She canceled the transaction. I received an email saying stubhub couldn’t fulfill and to send the tickets back to them. I transferred the tickets back to stubhub via ticket master.

An hour later I get an email from Ticketmaster. It says my tickets were transferred to some guy named Mark. I thought ok. I’m glad stubhub was able to sell them. Now, stubhub says my account is under review and I may not get a refund.

What happened as far as the transfers go? I checked stubhub and the tickets dropped to almost half what I bought them for. Someone was trying to sell seats 7 and 8 for $130 when I paid $205. I think it may have been Mark. Was he the original seller???

The prices dropped because the concert isn’t sold out and you could buy the same section for $116 right before the concert. My original purchase was 6/30.

I’ll probably never use stubhub again.

I will be under propofol sedation. I noticed that the last time I went to the dentist for a crown I had to concentrate to breathe.

I had an at home sleep study through a sleep doctor (Wesper). The sleep technician said I stopped breathing 42 times an hour and my blood oxygen dropped to 82 percent. She said it is considered severe sleep apnea and the next step is a monitored sleep study. I guess they will adjust a cpap throughout the night.

Next week, I have my wisdom teeth removal surgery. I'm debating on whether I should push it out until after the sleep study. I think the oral surgeon does the venous sedation himself. I tried asking if he can just do nitrous and he said that since one of my wisdom teeth is impacted, he wants to do general sedation.

I'm debating on what to do. Should I find a different surgeon that will do localized numbing with nitrous? Should I be concerned about sleep apnea with propofol sedation. I read some doctors recommend bringing your cpap, but I do not have one yet.

I’m going to the Post Malone concert In Tampa.

Do you know when Jelly Roll and Post Malone will start?

I went to the Morgan Wallen concert. It started at 5:30, but he didn’t get on stage until 9:30.

I need to replace an old SEU cable to a panel inside. The main panel is a 200 amp exterior panel. It has a 125 amp breaker that feeds a panel inside that feeds everything else. The current wire is 2 hots and a bare wire that acts as neutral and ground. I’ve read that sub panels need 4 wires.

I have to run the new wire on the exterior of the house and would like to use direct burial wire. The only thing I keep seeing pop up online is mobile home wire. It is USE wire. Is that the wire I should use?

What size?

2/0 2/0 2/0 1

I'm assuming it is because someone parceled it out a long time ago, but I wanted to double check. We've owned a property in Florida for a long time. A developer is trying to build an apartment community on the adjacent property. I went to the community meeting. They said that they are only building on upland.

I went to the national wetland inventory site. It shows the land we own as PFOFd. I went to go walk the property, and it seemed to have the same types of trees. It was pretty thick, so I didn't go too far into it.

I spoke to someone about 5 years ago about it. She said that maybe 10 percent would be potentially be considered upland. It's about 10 acres. She said wetland mitigation is very expensive, but she didn't go into detail. She said that soil samples were taken in the 70's, and it is pretty accurate what is wetlands.

What are my possible future uses for a property like this? Would I maybe be able to build my personal residence? It is zoned residential 1 (I'm located in Florida).

One real estate agent said I should approach the developer and see if they would buy it for wetland mitigation credits. I'm not sure what that means.

What other websites can I use to research this further?

I believe it is considered a sub panel. There used to be a disconnect at the meter box. This was replaced with an exterior panel, so circuits could be added for central air. The exterior panel has 3 breakers.

125 amp breaker that feeds main interior panel (replaced the 125 amp disconnect), condenser breaker, and air handler breaker.

I’m debating on replacing the Murray panel inside. It’s a 1971, but there are no current problems I’ve experienced.

I’ve read that the interior panel, since it is a sub panel, should have a separate ground and neutral. When the house was built the ser cable just had the two hot legs and a bare wire that acted as the ground and neutral.

Would I have to run a new 4 wire ser cable if I replace the Murray panel? If so, can I just run a new neutral separately?

There is an exterior panel outside that is fed through the service mast from the utility company. I had an electrician do some work about 8 years ago. He installed an exterior panel that has breakers that feed the hvac system. One for the air handler and one for the condenser. That was the whole purpose of adding the panel.

The home had central air added at that time. There used to be a zinsco disconnect that fed the interior panel. Now, the inside panel is fed from the exterior panel with a 100 amp breaker.

The problem I realized is there is no dedicated neutral. When the house was built it had a shared neutral/ground bare wire ran with the service wire. The house was built in the 70’s and has a Murray panel.

The house does not have an attic. Can a neutral, and possibly a ground, be ran separately on the exterior of the house, or is the only fix to run all new wires?

It’s been this way for 50 years, so I’m not sure if objectionable current is that much of a concern. The stove and dryer also are 3 wire and do not have a neutral. What are your thoughts?

I know there is an overall negative consensus on electric tankless water heaters. I’m interested in real world experiences in warm climates. The ground water where I live is 72 degrees. The current tank water heater is in the laundry room and takes up a lot of space.

I’m looking at getting a Stiebel Tempra. The reviews seem good. I used their sizing charts and came up with the Tempra 15 at 3 gpm.

It uses 2 30 amp circuits, so I’ll just have to add a 10/2 circuit to the current setup.

I’m hoping some people have tried them in warm climates for an unbiased opinion.

I want to run 1/2” pvc conduit along the side of the house. There is a gutter downspout and an ac line set cover in the path. What is the best way to go around them?