u/Colione1

Hello,

I have seen this topic here already but nobody has tried so far but as the R1 Glasses are out by now in Europe as well I guess the chances are there that someone has tried to use the S2 with R1 with just a powerbank and a S2-dock alternative adapter (which is connected to the powerbank. Without the asus Rog Dock of course. Anyone got that to work? Would probably be a dream for. commuting..

Hey there, got my TNM this Tuesday to Germany.

Totally disappointed but I do realize this is because of my false expectations and too little informing.. I am absolutely not a projector nerd…

Well I bought it to watch Germany and other World Cup matches outside (thought it is bright enough to create a good picture in the evening when Sun is low, weather cloudy and I have some shade, but I was very wrong, barely a better picture than my horizon pro.. also on my cheap esmart Amazon screen, not really better.. now I know it is made mostly for home cinema rooms..

So I am going to sell it.. but how does Transer of guarantee etc work?

Hey guys, got several fire tv sticks 4k (and plus) with fire OS and none shows the brand Xgimi when it comes to choosing one to connect the remote.. hence I can’t change volume or turn off/on.. is there a workaround??

Hi there! Do I understand the email (you other backers probably got as well :) )correctly that if I am in Germany, paid the tax (complete pledgebox) and am Backer number 950 (which is smaller than 2917) I will have my Titan noir max in the first July Week? :)

Hi there, my World Cup categories and magenta channels only show Germany or Netherlands or USA match but can’t find the Japan-tunesia match, anyone knows the channel and please also the category where it is in? (When I made categories invisible I can’t search them, and it was quite a hustle to sort the visible and invisible categories..)

Hi,
Ever since getting my Switch 2, I’ve fallen in love with playing shooters in bed (for several reasons, sometimes it’s much easier for me than gaming at my desk 😉).
For BF6, this works amazingly well with an 8BitDo Ultimate 2 BT controller. It has enough buttons on the left side that I can handle everything with my left hand on the controller and my right hand on a mouse.
I’ve managed to get a similar setup working in Arc Raiders thanks to Steam Input, but there’s one major issue that completely kills me in fights and basically turns me into a loot goblin:
Any action that requires holding a trigger/button (healing, using consumables, etc.) gets interrupted the moment the game switches to the second input device. Since I’m constantly using both controller and mouse, this happens all the time.
Example:
I hold left mouse button to heal.
As soon as I start moving with the left controller stick, the heal gets cancelled.
Or:
I map “use selected quick-slot item” to the left shoulder button.
Now I can heal while moving, but as soon as I move the mouse to look around, it gets interrupted again.
What does work is putting the mouse down, moving my right hand back to the controller, and doing everything purely on the controller. Then there are no interruptions at all. Unfortunately, I just can’t get used to that.
So here’s my question for the PC wizards out there:
Does anyone have a clever workaround for this?
My last idea was getting a wireless one-handed Hall Effect keyboard, but I haven’t found a good solution. The only wireless one-handed keyboard I know of (the K585) is pretty terrible for my use case. I also vastly prefer having a controller on the left side while lying in bed. The mouse works perfectly on a small hard-shell case. Plus, my girlfriend is often lying on my left side, so a keyboard would either get in the way or be too noisy.
Another thought:
Can Steam Input make a controller appear as a keyboard instead of a controller, so the game only sees mouse + keyboard and never switches between input modes?
If so, what happens with the analog stick? I assume it would basically become WASD, meaning I’d lose analog movement. I could live with that if it solved the problem.
Software like reWASD would probably solve it, but Arc Raiders’ anti-cheat doesn’t allow it.
Has anyone found a genius solution for this? I’d really appreciate any ideas.

My father is currently in the hospital for a very long-term stay that will likely last beyond the entire World Cup. Unfortunately, football is one of the few things he can still enjoy and look forward to every day.
I’m looking for a simple solution that allows him to watch World Cup matches after they have aired, ideally during European daytime hours. Live matches are often played at inconvenient times for him, and recording them ourselves is not really an option.
Current setup:
Amazon Fire TV Stick
TVMate app
No possibility to install a server, NAS, hard drive, or other recording solution in the hospital
My mother would need to operate the system, so it has to be very simple and reliable
I am usually not on site to troubleshoot anything
The ideal solution would be:
A TV channel or that regularly replays World Cup matches
Bonus if commentary is in German, but any language is fine
A catch-up / replay service that works directly on Fire TV would also be great
Even better if there is a schedule available so we can simply note the replay times and have him switch on the TV when the match is shown
Does anyone know of , TV channels, or Fire TV apps that offer reliable World Cup replays without requiring local recording?
I’m located in Germany, but I’m open to international solutions if they are easy enough to set up.
Thank you for any suggestions. This would mean a lot to him.

I have cleared 20 GB of iPhone storage space to install the Neueste developer iOS, now I installed it and still don’t have any free storage space left. Normally after the installation, some of the storage space is cleared again because the installation fire is deleted afterwards, but is that the same for you? Maybe got like 1-2 gb of storage back after installation..

I recently bought a Lemokey L0 HE. I originally assumed it was wireless because a lot of the marketing images and reels show it without any visible cable, and these days most gaming keyboards seem to support either Bluetooth or 2.4 GHz wireless.

That's completely on me for not checking the specs more carefully, but now I already have it and would actually like to keep it.

My use case is couch gaming on a Windows PC, so I'm looking for the most elegant way to make it wireless.

Ideally I'd like:

• No long USB cable running across the room
• No bulky box sitting next to the keyboard
• Something compact that could even be attached directly to the side or underside of the L0 HE
• Low enough latency for gaming

Has anyone built or bought a solution like this?

I'm aware of Bluetooth adapters, USB-over-RF devices, ESP32 DIY projects, etc., but I'm interested in real-world experiences and what worked best in practice.

Photos of your setup would be greatly appreciated.

Hey there, really curious whether the R1 works for Computing with S2 in Performance Mode with just a Powerbank for the Switch (not a second for the Rog Dock). I‘ve seen this here and this seems to work with other xreal glasses but will it be enough to power the 240hz R1 for mobile Gaming? Can anyone test for me please :) my pre order in germany depends on it :)
Thanks!

Hi, for a month I need to give my Apple TV away and for that time I need a IPTV App for my LG B9 Tv, is there anything cheap or free and decent available?

Hello guys
I want to mount my titan noir on a centered 3.5“ not on a flat surface where one can place four feet on.
I will probably need a cross formed Vesa like piece to screw to the four screwholes, does anyone know whether This will be available or does anyone know the measurements of the four holes so I could possibly built my own or check whether may vesa mount suit it?

Some SOB doing hit and run scraped the front bumper of my Mercedes W205 (photo attached). The bumper is plastic and the paint is completely gone in a few spots, exposing the black plastic underneath.
I’m currently considering two options:
Have it repaired properly now (body shop, larger paint repair).
Get a Smart Repair / spot repair, since there’s already a small scuff on the other side of the bumper as well, and then simply replace or fully repaint the bumper if it gets damaged again in the future. I am a bit interested in DIY in general, have tools to grind and was thinking of getting a spray pistol anyways soon.. maybe I could even do it myself.
The car isn’t a show car, but I do like keeping it in good condition. On the other hand, spending a lot of money on a bumper that may get another parking scratch in a year feels a bit wasteful (because it DOES have a scratch already on the other side)

What would you do in my situation?

Hi there from Germany! Is the expected kickstarter Release Date (june 9th) still realistic? This could mean it arrives on time for the world Championship?! Maybe not the First Matches, but if it ships around that Date it should arrive in June, but I have no experience with KS so.. of there were any delays they would probably be announced by now wouldn’t they?

Hi everyone,
I’m having a strange issue with the UGREEN NAS iPhone app.
When I upload a video from my iPhone to the NAS, the file stored on the NAS is much smaller than the original video on the iPhone.
Example:
Original video on iPhone: around 1.6 GB
File stored on NAS after upload: only around 600 MB
Important:
On my iPhone I already disabled “Optimize iPhone Storage” and enabled keeping/downloading originals in Photos settings.
So I would expect the original full-size file to be uploaded.
However, the UGREEN app still seems to upload a compressed/smaller version somehow.
Has anyone experienced the same issue?
Does the app maybe upload an optimized iCloud version instead of the real original?
Or is there any hidden setting in UGOS / the UGREEN app related to original quality uploads?
Thanks!

Hey there,

What are the specs of the power brick? I need to get a second one for my other room where I move the projector to but I want to have clean cable management :)

Hey everyone,
I’m planning to get the Titan Noir Max and I’m currently thinking about what streaming device to pair it with.
From what I’ve seen, the projector itself is pretty high-end (triple laser, Dolby Vision, etc.), but it’s not really an all-in-one “portable smart projector” like something like the Horizon Pro. (No tvOS)
My use case is a bit specific:
I’ll be moving the projector fairly often between 2–3 rooms, so I really want something compact, clean, and ideally semi-permanently attached to the projector.
What I’m trying to avoid:
bulky boxes like an Apple TV (too much extra stuff to carry)
HDMI sticks that stick straight out (like Fire TV Stick), since they feel awkward and like they could bend or get damaged when moving the projector
What I would love:
something small like a Chromecast-type device
ideally something I can mount/tape neatly to the projector body
minimal cable mess
still powerful enough to fully utilize the projector (4K, Dolby Vision, etc.)
So I guess my questions are:
What streaming device would you recommend for this kind of setup?
Is there anything compact that doesn’t stick out awkwardly?
Any creative mounting solutions people are using?
Curious what setups you guys are running, especially if you also move your projector around a lot.
Thanks!

Hallo, ist schon bekannt welches Netzteil mit welchem Anschluss er haben wird? Wäre geil wenn ich meine zwei Netzteile vom alten Horizon Pro, die in Kabelführungen verbaut sind, benutzen könnte..

Und btw auch die Abstände der schraublöcher der Füße bekannt? Brauchte so eine Art Halterung/Kreuz wie vesa, damit ich den Beamer auf ner 3,5“ schraube befestigen kann wie den horizon Pro.. is da was bekannt? Das wird schon so gehen oder?

Hi everyone,

Due to a broken display, I turned my MacBook into a headless setup and was very happy with it until yesterday. Wi-Fi was working perfectly fine.

Now I’m facing a pretty annoying issue with my MacBook Air M1 (base model) and I just can’t figure it out. Maybe someone here has an idea.

Problem:

My Mac doesn’t find any Wi-Fi networks at all. The list stays completely empty, no matter where I am. Not even phone hotspots show up.

What I’ve tried so far:

General:

- Toggled Wi-Fi on/off

- Restarted the Mac

- Tested multiple networks

- Placed the device right next to the router → distance is not the issue

System info / diagnostics:

With the help of ChatGPT I tried quite a few things, listing them here:

system_profiler SPAirPortDataType

→ Wi-Fi hardware shows up, so it seems to be recognized

Airport tool (deprecated, but tried anyway):

sudo /System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/Apple80211.framework/Versions/Current/Resources/airport -z

→ supposed to reset/clear scan cache, but no improvement

/System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/Apple80211.framework/Versions/Current/Resources/airport -s

→ actively scans for networks → returns no networks at all

Restarting network interface:

sudo ifconfig en0 down sudo ifconfig en0 up

→ no change

Reloading Wi-Fi service via launchctl:

sudo launchctl kickstart -k system/com.apple.wifi

→ also no improvement

Additional info:

- MacBook Air M1 (2x USB-C)

- Running headless (external monitor)

- External monitor sometimes stays black during certain boot modes, so I couldn’t access safe mode yet

- Issue appeared suddenly, no prior instability

My suspicion:

Something related to the Wi-Fi interface / driver / maybe hardware (though unlikely, since the Mac hasn’t been moved and worked fine the day before)

Or maybe something related to the headless setup? ChatGPT suggested that Wi-Fi functionality might somehow be linked to the internal display. I did reinstall the Wi-Fi antenna after removing the display — on the M1 it sits near the hinge area.

Questions:

- Has anyone experienced this exact behavior (no networks visible at all)?

- Are there deeper diagnostic tools I could use?

- Any additional terminal commands or logs I should check?

- Does this look more like a software bug or a hardware issue to you?

I’d really appreciate any input