


What did you guys do to solve this? I’d like to see my Dash unit
I’m not able to see my DDU very easily and wondering what you all did to solve this?



I’m not able to see my DDU very easily and wondering what you all did to solve this?
For under $100 and on Amazon prime, it’s a good deal. But it looks like a toy. I figured the buttons would light up once I enable/push them, but they don’t
And the bottom blue buttons stay pushed in until u push them again to release, and I can’t find anything in iracing or other racing games that like those buttons. Idk what I would even use them for. The toggle switches staying down or up is a doozy for me too I’m used to the switches bouncing back to position not staying up, in the middle, or down. Don’t know what I would use those for either
I may return it but wanted to ask if u guys found a good use for buttons? Or the toggles on bottom? Is there any other button box with push to start/ignition that’s under $150-200 USD?
As title says. It’s very annoying lol
Just upgraded to a PNY 5080, paired with my i9 13th gen. Now I’m on triple 1440p screens. Is 100 fps ish normal? I’d say my graphics settings are a bit up there. Mix of highs and low settings. But I think my 3090 gave me the same fps? Lower graphics but just wondering if this is normal?
*Long story short I need a real how to on intensity vs strength settings for my ffb and wondering how you guys know WHICH wheel range to use per car (540,600,720,900,Auto)
Long story long…I’m curious how people know what strength is best for each car? Sometimes I feel like I set my strength so close in most cars that they seem pamper the same to drive. Also curious about wheel range per car.
So max torque is always locked to 8nm (my max torque I can use) (csl dd8nm) but there’s a strength AND intensity. Which should I be changing? A mix of both?
For instance if I use 100% intensity I can only do like 3 Strength in sprint cars before that wheel is heavy and way too stiff to turn. I’ll ask chat gpt but she spits a different answer out every time.
Or in nascar races. I see peoples wheels are pretty low but still enough feedback to bounce the wheel around but when I do it it’s heavy as hell or not enough force.
Now my issue with wheelcrsnge is everyone tells me to use auto for wheel range on my wheel settings, but in iracing settings there’s no “auto” for wheel range. It wants me to choose between 0 and 1080 on the slider. Should mx5 and bmw m2 really be at 540 rotation? Sprint cars really at 720? Ovals at 540? Or how do I figure out per car what’s what
Sorry for such a long post and thanks for the help lol
I’m going to use buzzkillers vkb sticks control binds, which involves Joy2Key.
I also have a stream deck I want to load Star citizen commands on.
It looks like “icon city” makes a profile, but will me using Joy2Key mess up the icon profile bindings?
I’m newer to the stream deck game and even newer to Star citizen. I like how the profile has most buttons I need, but I’ve never used joy2key and I don’t want conflicts
Or is there a better way to get Star citizen commands in Star citizen WITHOUT setting them up one by one? Thanks
Hey there! I’ll try to keep it simple but I know you guys will have more questions for me.
I9 13th gen /rtx 5080
\*Now when I say flicker what I mean is it jumps screens to a different monitor
I hsve one monitor on my desk and then I have a triple screen set up on my sim rig on the other side of the room. Using normal sized cables it’s not like 100ft away or anything. Triple screens (1440p 165 hz panels) are using the 3 display ports and my desk monitor (1440p ultra gear 240hz panel) using hdmi
Almost anytime I game on my desk monitor, it flickers. What I’ve realized is it’s jumping the screen over to one of my 3 triple screen monitors for about 1-2 seconds and then jumps back to my desk monitor.
I’ve made sure in nvidia and in windows settings that my desk monitor is the primary monitor but after I get one of those flickers, Nvidia normally switches to that one sim rig monitor back to primary.
Games like Spider-Man 2 will default to that triple screen monitor being the default (though I still only see it on my desk monitor)
I can’t figure out why it keeps doing this. It doesn’t flicker when I game on the triple screens at all
The only weird thing that could be causing it that I can think of is I use a program called “displaymagician” that sets up profiles and I can switch over to my triples or back to my desk monitor with a simple hotkey or stream deck button.
Any help would be appreciated. Sometimes I’ll be in a heated multiplayer match and it’ll cut my screen out for like 3 seconds while it jumps around on monitors.
Long story short I’m looking for quick release systems for my aluminum profile rig. I want it to be quick and easy. I don’t like having all my flight and racing stuff on the same rig all the time. Like my vkb gladiators and throttle in front of it, plus a shifter and handbrake etc it’s just too much (first world problems I know)
I know about QR4Rigs.com but I’m in the U.S. and it quickly gets expensive plus shipping (maybe tariffs?? Can anyone confirm or deny?) is there any other website or company making this stuff? Thanks for any advice.
Long story short I’m looking for quick release systems for my aluminum profile rig. I want it to be quick and easy. I don’t like having all my flight and racing stuff on the same rig all the time. Like my vkb gladiators and throttle in front of it, plus a shifter and handbrake etc it’s just too much (first world problems I know)
I know about QR4Rigs.com but I’m in the U.S. and it quickly gets expensive plus shipping (maybe tariffs?? Can anyone confirm or deny?) is there any other website or company making this stuff? Thanks for any advice.
So yesterday I said to myself “I wonder what I can get for my 3090ti fe” posted it on marketplace. Was the fastest item I ever sold. I got $1000 usd for it. Immediately saw the 5080 at Best Buy (yes it’s PNY) and spent about $250 out of pocket with my 3090 money.
I’m just so surprised my 3090 sold in less than 1 work shift.
Although I can’t find any honest reviews about this damn thing. I completely understand the jump from 40 series to 50 series is trash, but upgrading from a 30 series to 50 has to be a huge jump….right? I made the right call doing this…right? lol. Anyways….hell yeah doggys I’ll be popping it in tonight and seeing how she handles my triple screen racing! Thanks for letting me gloat for a minute. My friends wouldn’t understand lol
Here’s how I set it all up but looking for links on Amazon or why to get to isolate my seat so it doesn’t vibrate the whole rig
- seat bass shaker is mounted with a bracket on each side of Mustang frame bottom (I found holes on sides) and then the piece of profile connecting it to the seat. Will this b ok? I couldn’t find another way to mount it to seat to where it wouldn’t hit the rig when I slide seat forward.
-how to isolate? I heard just rubber washers on the profile connecting seat to rig will give too much play. Thoughts? Idk what to get for the seat.
And then for the pedal shaker is another Dayton bst1, I don’t have a pedal plate so I couldn’t put it directly under. Will this work ok? It’s between brake and gas pedal.
My main concern is it being muted because of where I mounted, or the rig vigorously shaking because I have no rubber or isolators on the seat.
(I overthink this stuff a lot so any help or reassurance would be awesome, sorry for writing a whole damn book lol)
What’s the best way to profiles? I have a csl dd 8nm and it’s great but I only have 5 profiles on my wheel. Cool feature but would be cool to re name it in the pc software. My main question is can I get more profiles? May I change games frequently and it would be nice to be able to swap per car. Forza I’ll play 5 different cars in one session. I usually leave iracing on S1 and change up the tune per car but it’s time consuming every time and I don’t even know what is the best settings for half these cars
I have to be missing something, no way everyone’s doing this every time. Suggestions?
I have 2 16gb ddr4 3200 ram sticks in my pc now (32GB total) but I’m wanting to upgrade to 64gb. The only used option I have around me that may work is these corsair sticks. Same timing same 32GB and it’s ddr4 but they look different, these new ones have rgb on them and not sure if it will cause problems if I mix them?
Or is that ok to do as long as they are same specs?
The only thing I do with my ram is in bios enable xmp and then I change the speed to the rated 3200 otherwise it tries to default in the 2000s.
I’ve never used 4 sticks before so sorry for the noob question lol is there anything else I should watch out for or do?
Could be usb tips or rig management etc.
Like for mei wish someone told me I COULD have too many peripherals even with powered usb hubs. Or that setting up triple screens to align perfectly the way u want it is a pain in the butt! Or cable management tips, whatever. (Had to type more words or I couldn’t post) thanks!
Deleted everything in device manager, reinstalled app like 5 times, I can’t get this wheel to work in any game right now. Latest version of fanatec app. Not sure what to do from here? I’ve manually updated everything wheel base, wheel, wheel base motor, like idk what else to dooooooo. The fanatec app detects everything and all tests come back fine. But when I first open the app is says it’s trying to fix something and 20 minutes later it’s still not fixing or doing anything
I re installed the app but still nothing fixed. Csl dd 8nm idk what to try ive always had good luck but today it’s not working….
This is for Star citizen….I feel like I’ve been running all my peripherals just fine but the other day I added pedals to my mix (twacked out all my controls) so I re bound them all. Fun.
Shortly after, I noticed all my usb devices shut off and started citizen froze for about 10 seconds and then my devices turned back on and everything was re shuffled again in game. This happened 2 more times in same day. I have 2 external powered usb hubs. And everything was working for months before I added these pedals.
Then I tried without my head tracking camera plugged in. It seemed to stop the issue. *my question* long story long here, is it too many USB’s plugged in? Is it polling too much? Is it just the game tweaking out?
I have probably 13 or 14 usbs plugged between these hubs. Some for keyboard mouse or headset etc etc but Here’s my devices for start citizen :
-Vkb gladiator evo on right hand side
-turtle beach velocityone flight stick on left side,
-x56 throttle on left side (for extra buttons or mining and salvage controls) yes I use both in game
- stream deck
-mx brio for head tracking
-Headset
-thrustmaster pedals
I made sure to turn off power management in root hubs, not sure what else to try. But it scares me when it happens and of course messes up my binds for star citizen. Someone please help me