u/DistortedChaos15

Hey guys
So i enabled the kiro pro+ plan via creating an account in aws, utilisng the free credits.If i click on the email on the bottom left, it DOES show that its a pro+ account but none of the anthropic models show up at all

I even manually added the models back, still no luck

Hey guys,
A lot of guys have scratches on their exhaust because they dropped the bike, slid or just due to other guys sideswiping them

If you have scratches, and theyre light scratches, you can just continue to directly spray
if your scratches are deep, where surface is uneven, then you will have to use sandpaper to sand it down

Lower grit (less number=more rough)
high grit( hihg number=less rough, smoother)

so what you do is you take lower grit sandpaper, lets say 80 incase of very deep scratches, roughten and even the suface

then 200
400
1000
and at last, use water, wet the exhaust and silencer and use a 2000 grit sandpaper
these values arent fixed, so you dont necessarily have to do it in this order but u get my point
first you level high and low spots, then you smoothen it

When spraying make sure you spray in thin coats. If its dripping that means you overdid it. You can literally just sand it down with a high grit sandpaper and restart

These silencer coats are all in one, so you dont need to put any primer before hand either
just make sure you have everything wrapped up nicely (especially the rotor)
let it dry properly
and once its dried
run the bike and let it idle for atleast 10-15 mins to bake it in properly

Attaching photos of before and after of friends harley x440 that he did at home with zero previous spray paint experience

Pro tip: do NOT spray onto exhaust
first take any piece of metal and spray it on
confirm the color

if there is a significant color mismatch, it would be better to coat the whole silencer for uniformity

If anyone has a rusty exhaust, you can literally do it
Sand off the rust

Also another pro tip: you do NOT want oil on exhaust as paint wont stick well to it. Best thing would be rubbing/isopropyl alcohol (both are same thing). Wipe with that and leave, it evaporates on its own

If anyone doesnt have that, then a great alternative is dish soap. Dish soap is designed to remove burnt oils from kadhais, so all this is cake work for it. I prefer pril liquid detergents (the bars are not that good) as it doesnt leave any waxy coating, and cleans better

I literally use pril to clean vehicle as well, scrub the tyres (yes i scrub tyres sometimes incase theres an oil patch etc, just spray, scrub with the rough side of sponge and wash off thoroughly and it becomes way more grippy than youd expect) and for cleaning vehicle

I now have a wax shapoo so i dont have to seperately wax it. So i just use that to clean and wax it, but every second/third wash i use pril to remove the old wax first, because it kinda becomes white and chalky

Ive also used it to clean my rotors (as if youve done a brake bleed or greased up the calipers, you dont want anything on your rotor) (though alcohol is still better as it naturally leaves no residue, or proper brake cleaners as they use harsher chemicals)

Hey guys,
We had an old panasonic ac (i think a 1 ton) thats idk like 10 years old now
Thing is after we moved apartments, we didnt get it installed and its been like that ever since

I dont think they had sealed the odu/idu with nitrogen, with oil or anything like that

so in essence most probably there could be corrosion etc inside the compressor etc

My question now is, would it still be good to run? if lets say the installation guys do a proper vaccum test, fill it with refrigerant and lubricant

or should we just throw it away as chance of it running are slim and the repair costs etc would probably exceed what its worth

uses R22 refrigerant, its made in malaysia and has EER of 3.17, power input of 1kw and cooling capacity of 3.5kw