u/GadgetFreeky

Once the ATSC 3.0 standards/licensing situation is fully clarified, is there any chance SiliconDust would consider adding built-in Wi-Fi to a future HDHomeRun device?

I know the thinking at SiliconDust has been that Wi-Fi can be too unstable to reliably support the use case, but in my experience the extender works extremely well. The downside is that it’s just a pretty ugly and bulky solution.

Right now I’m using a Wi-Fi extender to connect my HDHomeRun, and it’s been relatively flawless. It seems like built-in Wi-Fi could make the device much more flexible for installations where running Ethernet isn’t practical.

Curious if SiliconDust has considered this for the next update.

1. Recessed Housing

2 X96 controllers

3. G2s?

4. Palladium Metal Keypads

Got a finish-matching problem and I'm out of runway.

All my bathroom fixtures are Fantini in their Matt British Gold PVD finish. I still need to order the hinges and door handles for the frameless shower glass, and I'm trying to get a 90%+ match to the Fantini finish.

My local plumbing shop spent the last 4 months working with Neelnox on a custom match, and it ultimately didn't come together — so now I'm out of time and need a plan B.

Has anyone actually matched Fantini's British Gold on shower hardware? Hinges/ Handles. Or gotten 90% close? Which brand and finish got you closest — especially for the hinges?

Got a finish-matching problem and I'm out of runway.

All my bathroom fixtures are Fantini in their Matt British Gold PVD finish. I still need to order the hinges and door handles for the frameless shower glass, and I'm trying to get a 90%+ match to the Fantini finish.

My local plumbing shop spent the last 4 months working with Neelnox on a custom match, and it ultimately didn't come together — so now I'm out of time and need a plan B.

Has anyone actually matched Fantini's British Gold on shower hardware? Hinges/ Handles. Or gotten 90% close? Which brand and finish got you closest — especially for the hinges?

Got a finish-matching problem and I'm out of runway.

All my bathroom fixtures are Fantini in their Matt British Gold PVD finish. I still need to order the hinges and door handles for the frameless shower glass, and I'm trying to get a 90%+ match to the Fantini finish.

My local plumbing shop spent the last 4 months working with Neelnox on a custom match, and it ultimately didn't come together — so now I'm out of time and need a plan B.

Has anyone actually matched Fantini's British Gold on shower hardware? Hinges/ Handles. Or gotten 90% close? Which brand and finish got you closest — especially for the hinges?

Got a finish-matching problem and I'm out of runway.

All my bathroom fixtures are Fantini in their Matt British Gold PVD finish. I still need to order the hinges and door handles for the frameless shower glass, and I'm trying to get a 90%+ match to the Fantini finish.

My local plumbing shop spent the last 4 months working with Neelnox on a custom match, and it ultimately didn't come together — so now I'm out of time and need a plan B.

Has anyone actually matched Fantini's British Gold on shower hardware? Hinges/ Handles. Or gotten 90% close? Which brand and finish got you closest — especially for the hinges?

I've been looking to update my living room, specifically the coffee table, media console, and rug with pieces from RH.

So far, I've purchased the rug, and I'm really happy with it. However, I'm having second thoughts about the Oslo Ebony media console. It feels almost too black and seems to contrast a bit too much with the rest of the room's colors.

One factor that may change the overall look is that my T-Brace coffee table hasn't arrived yet. Since it's also black with brass accents, it may help tie the room together and make the media console feel more intentional.

A few questions:

1. Should I return the Oslo media console and choose one in a lighter brown wood?
2. Should I keep the Oslo and wait for the T-Brace coffee table to arrive before making a decision, with the room consisting of the new rug, the Oslo media console, and the black/brass T-Brace table?
3. Or should I just give up... 😄

This is the T-brace table that is coming next week.

This is the new Osldo Media Center from RH- Options- keep, swap for lighter or remove. New Rug below too.

Pre remodel

Trying to load the site on desktop Chrome or Saari and the whole page just dies with "Application error: a client-side exception has occurred." Opened the console and it's an uncaught TypeError — Cannot read properties of undefined (reading 'USD'). Looks like something in their pricing/currency code is choking on load.

Before anyone says clear your cache: it still throws in a fresh incognito window with no extensions, so I'm pretty sure it's not on my end. Just want to figure out if it's site-wide or somehow just me.

Anyone else seeing this? Or found a way to actually get into your account/settings while it's broken?

Forgive the directness of this post but Ketra is not cheap and hoping to secure a discount. I have a full l lighting design and schedule I can provide. I am looking for a remote Lutron dealer to work with a local installer. If you are in the bay area tho and can do installs- that's a plus too.

A home in the Bay Area. 

• 39 Ketra D2 downlights
• Extensive Tape lighting- Ketra, Lumaris
• Homeworks processor and panel. 
• Control Panels
• Blinds also.

Please send me a private message with the following:

• Programming fees - up front an ongoing for changes.
• Discount on Equipment you can provide
• Any self programming restrictions

Trying to settle a debate before I spend real money on motorized shades. Note that the width here is 120 inches so limited in product choices that are available.

Situation: large west-facing windows (about 10 ft wide, 7+ ft tall) that get hammered by direct sun all summer afternoon. The condo has AC, so this isn't about surviving the heat — it's about how hard the AC has to work and how uncomfortable the rooms get. Winter insulation from R factor is a 2ndary concern.

I'm deciding between:

1. **Dual-cell honeycomb shades** (Hunter Douglas Duette with LightLock) — R-4+, sealed edges, the "energy efficiency" pick on paper

2. Lutron Segovia **Blackout roller shades with white/reflective backing** with side channels — maybe R-1.5 on a good day

Here's my question: everything I read says honeycomb wins on R-value, but R-value is about *conduction*. Direct summer sun is *radiation* — and a white-backed roller reflects that back out the glass just like a white-backed honeycomb does. If the main job is bouncing sunlight, does the honeycomb's trapped-air insulation actually buy me anything meaningful in summer, or does it mostly pay off in winter?

My napkin math says the solar load through a big window in full sun is ~10x the conductive load from a 95°F day, and both shade types cut the solar part about equally. Which would make the honeycomb premium mostly irrelevant for my use case. But I don't trust my napkin.

For anyone who has lived with either (or both):

- Did honeycomb vs roller make a noticeable difference in afternoon room temp or AC runtime?

- Does the sealed edge (LightLock / side channels) matter more than the fabric type for keeping heat trapped at the glass?

- Any regrets going roller in a condo or home that gets hot from direct sunlight (I am 40 floors up so the sun is direct and intense) ? Any "the honeycomb wasn't worth it" stories?

- Does the shade itself heating up and re-radiating into the room favor one type?

Not interested in exterior screens/awnings for this application — interior shades only. Thanks.

Been speccing a Ketra-heavy HomeWorks project and went down a rabbit hole on the A20 lamp. The light quality is still unmatched — full spectrum, R9>90, Color Lock, warm dim to 0.1%, nothing in a screw-in format touches it. But the hardware itself hasn't meaningfully changed since the original Austin-era design. Output is still 600 lm omni / 800 lm semi-directional (~40–60W equivalent), and the spec sheet is on something like Rev K with no lumen bump in years.

Meanwhile a Philips Hue A21 pushes 1,600 lm, and even mid-tier smart bulbs are clearing 1,000+ lm at better efficacy. Obviously Ketra is optimizing for spectrum and longevity over raw output, and I get why the physics don't allow a 1,750 lm A20 under their thermal/Color-Lock constraints — but a 1,000–1,200 lm refresh seems very doable.

A few things make me think an update could be coming:

• The Rania engine got dropped into the S38 body in 2025 (Rania S38) — proof they'll re-engine existing lamp hardware
• California Title 20 killed the omnidirectional A20 entirely (the omni fails the compliance-score math by a few points), so there's a real gap a re-engineered lamp would fix
• They've shipped new fixtures three years running (LS0 '24, D2 '25, D2R '26)

…but also a few that make me think they'll leave it alone:

• At ISE 2026 they rolled the existing A20/S30/S38 into EMEA as-is — you don't globalize a product weeks before replacing it
• All the R&D energy is clearly going into fixtures, not lamps

So — anyone with dealer/rep channels heard anything? Is a next-gen A20 (or a Rania A20) on the roadmap, or is this lamp just going to ride for another decade? Curious whether I should factor a future swap into a current spec or just not think about it.

The DCOF looks good but this is a curbless steam shower. While i love larger tiles to enhance room size, I worry they might be a little slippery. Also since it's curbless, there is a slight slope. Are these fine with this .74 DCOF?

Here are the Stats

• DCOF (ANSI A326.3, wet): 0.74 — clears the US ≥0.42 threshold for floors walked on when wet, easily
• Shod-feet ramp: R9 — the lowest rung of the R9–R13 scale (dry/entrance level)
• Barefoot ramp (DIN 51097): B — middle of A/B/C
• Wet pendulum PTV: 34 wet / 57 dry — wet 34 = "moderate slip potential" (36+ is "low")
• EN 16165 wet pendulum class: CL1; Australian (AS 4586): P1 / P2

The question: can a Ketra D2 handle the environment inside a residential steam shower with 15–30 minutes of heat and steam per day?

We could mount the D2s outside the glass enclosure, but the glass will fog up during operation, which significantly diminishes the lighting effect.

If the D2s can work inside the enclosure, the cleanest design is:

• D2s overhead for color and primary illumination
• Plain 1800K static-CCT tape (sauna-rated) for ambient warm glow

If the D2s can't go inside, the alternative is:

• Sauna-rated RGBW tape for both ambient warmth and color
• Two candidates we've identified:
  1. Core Lighting LNT65SPA-F-VB-RGBW-27K-PF-24V (neon form, 32 ft continuous run, standard Lutron dimming compatibility)
  2. American Lighting Sauna COB RGBW (flat COB form, 14mm, 90+ CRI)

Looking for your thoughts.

In the Ketra Lutron world they seem to want everything on their system.  I'm ideally wanting a few Ketra controls in certain places throughout the home but have Innovelli for scene control in places like bathrooms where there will be Ketra D2 lights? Looking for real-world experience. 

I had an installer come and wall mount this- he's done around 200 Frame TV installations and never run across anything like this. This is the 2026 brand new Frame TV (not pro).

We measured the mount and it's level. Perfectly Flat.

There are no obstrucitons of any kind.

However the damn think sticks out on the bottom. Quite forcefully by about an inch.

Anyone run acros sthi syet with the new model?

Two clues.

1. One clue is that the device can be pressed flush- he put some tape on to make it stick down and the bottom but it the tape comes loose after an hour.
2. While there is an overall gap at the bottom, there is more of a gap on the left side than the right. Thank you.