u/LankyNihilist

After I flushed my trans fluid a few times my drain plug is leaking. I put a new one in and it’s still leaking. Gonna take it apart and look at it to see why, but I’m wondering if I should spend the $$$ and get an aluminum pan or just another stamped steel pan. I did the 6.0 cooler upgrade, I don’t tow like everyday but when I do I’m pushing my gvw so I’m not sure.
99 7.3

My super duty has a couple small rust spots starting on the cab corners. One hasn’t even broke thru the paint yet but you can hear it and the other is just big enough to get a finger into the hole. I won’t have time to fix it properly before winter hits as I’m in the process of starting to build my house while still working 45 hours a week. I was thinking of cutting the rusty crap out and just putting a piece over it with adhesive until I can actually fix it correctly. I feel like getting the existing rust out will and a new piece over it will be better than just leaving an open hole there. Any adhesive recommendations? Is this a ridiculous idea?

EVERY single person needs to experience what it takes to operate a large vehicle with a trailer. It could even be on a closed course but everyone needs it. Many people have absolutely no idea what it takes to start, stop, and maneuver a large vehicle. Like over 35 ft and 15,000 lbs. I think that it would prevent a lot of unnecessary stupidity and reduce the number of people on the road who shouldn’t be there anyway. You can’t operate a vehicle with a trailer attached no license.

This isn’t because you’ll be using it all of the time or ever, but you’ll get the idea of what it takes other drivers on the road to operate a large vehicle.

So I’m thinking of making some window inserts that are friction fit for my Mesa ridge. Anyone done anything like this? Any suggestions?

Mesa Ridge 340flr the stock dometic thermostat waits until it’s 5* cooler than the set temp to turn the furnace on. That’s a bit of a drop while I’m sleeping. I wanted to switch to a programmable tstat but apparently they are stoopid expensive for this because it uses a digital signal. Anyone got any input for a cheaper one than the micro air one for $230?

So I’m getting ready to set my camper up while I build my house. Want to get well and septic set up beforehand. Thinking about how to do waste removal in an area that gets down to freezing pretty regularly. Was thinking maybe a macerator pump and plumb it into irrigation pipe that goes into the septic tank. That way freezing isn’t a worry. I’m probably not gonna do all winter in the rv but to be able to do 9 or so months of the year would be good. Everything flows down from where my camper is at on the property.

I’m trying to find something kinda large for under 20k so I can pay cash. It’s freaking impossible, everything in that price range needs a new roof and some interior work because it’s been leaking.
I don’t really want new because new ANYTHING quality seems to be shit these days.

So I was looking at sway bar disconnects for the 89. It’s only got a 1.5 lift. The rough country ones only for a 4-6” lift and the jks ones that fit a 0-6” lift are about 2.5x the price. I guess I don’t see why you couldn’t just cut the tube that the rough country ones use and and drill new holes in them and use those. Has anyone tried this?

So the Gf's jeep has 6.5" shackles. Google keeps telling me that they are too long and should be swapped to boomerang shackles. Is it really worth it to swap to them? Does it make it ride that much better?

Also when we go over a bump with the rear axle it feels like the shocks aren't working at all. I took them apart and they measure 19.5" extended. All the info I'm finding says for a small lift they should be about 22.5". So I'm assuming the shocks are maxing extension travel and the leaf isn't fully extended yet.