u/NothingButACasual

I've posted before about using a long PVC pipe to get up and clean my gutters. After doing that for a few years I've learned a lot and made a version 2.0.

The biggest point is that weight matters more than you might think. Keeping it light has to be a priority. So I ended up switching to aluminum downspout instead of PVC.

figured recording a video would be easier than typing everything so here's that:

https://youtu.be/FxhU9I4\_H-U

Warning: low production value. Just a dad talking to my phone in the backyard.

I've posted before about using a long PVC pipe to get up and clean my gutters. After doing that for a few years I've learned a lot and made a version 2.0.

The biggest point is that weight matters more than you might think. Keeping it light has to be a priority. So I ended up switching to aluminum downspout instead of PVC.

I figured recording a video would be easier than typing everything so here's that.

Warning: low production value. Just a dad talking to my phone in the backyard.

I just noticed that the "Pure" brand on Amazon has a BOGO offer on their powdered citric acid. With coupon it makes it 4lb for $10. No idea how long the coupon will last. It wasn't there a couple weeks ago.

I recently got a used LG front load WM4200H so I've been experimenting with the settings. That also brought me here where I learned about Biz and citric acid and washing on warm not cold.

So I decided to run a load of my dingy old white tee's to see if Biz could revive them. I used the "Bright Whites" setting on the LG (hot water temp) and added a pre-wash to give the Biz longer to work. (no "soak" setting on my model)

To my surprise, the pre-wash filled with 23°c water! It also drained that water after the pre-wash, before refilling with 44°c water for the main wash.

And looking at the hoses under the top cover I should have known, because there are 4 hoses, with one labeled "pre-wash" that is only connected to the cold tap.

So that tells me the pre-wash may only be helpful on clothes with a lot of soil like dirt and mud or something that needs to be diluted with extra water. It doesn't give the enzymes or oxygen bleach in Biz any extra time to work.

Instead I'm probably better off using the Heavy Duty cycle and/or setting the soil level to "high" to buy some extra time?

I got an email offer for a string trimmer kit that includes two 82v batteries, for $99. It seems like a screaming deal but I'm not finding a whole lot of tools compatible with the 82v line. Maybe that's why the kit is so cheap?

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Bought a used WM4200HWA last week. Used it for 4 loads, no issues.

This week my first load gives an error about insufficient water supply, check the valves and filters, etc. I checked, then restarted.

This time halfway through I get an overfill error, and hear the valve open (filling) at the same time it is pumping out the drain. I shut the supply valve and remove the supply hose, this time finding the inner screen has some blue corrosion. I remove the fine inner screen, and replace the removable plastic filter/screen basket. Restart the load.

A few minutes later the washer is now offline in the app. I go downstairs to find it completely unresponsive and full of water. I unplug for a few minutes. When I plug it back in, there's a pop from the outlet (but does not trip breaker) and still no response from the washer. No lights no nothing.

Any ideas?

Bought a used WM4200HWA last week. Used it for 4 loads, no issues.

This week my first load gives an error about insufficient water supply, check the valves and filters, etc. I checked, then restarted.

This time halfway through I get an overfill error, and hear the valve open (filling) at the same time it is pumping out the drain. I shut the supply valve and remove the supply hose, this time finding the inner screen has some blue corrosion. I remove the fine inner screen, and replace the removable plastic filter/screen basket. Restart the load.

A few minutes later the washer is now offline in the app. I go downstairs to find it completely unresponsive and full of water. I unplug for a few minutes. When I plug it back in, there's a pop from the outlet (but does not trip breaker) and still no response from the washer. No lights no nothing.

Can anyone see why flight 4463 DSM > PHL was canceled this morning?

Did it get replaced by a different flight due to a plane swap?

I make mac n cheese every sunday night. I really enjoy the recipe that I've put together, but I'm looking for how to make it even better. I've tried adding gouda or swiss but haven't really noticed a ton of difference. Pepperjack added some dimension but the wife didn't like it.

My recipe is:

3/4c Milk (fairlife)

1.5tsp sodium citrate

1tsp yellow mustard

8oz sharp cheddar

0.75oz fresh Parmesan

1Tbs pasta water

Salt, pepper, red pepper flake to taste.

My stomach doesn't do well on sour cream, but I've been thinking about adding plain greek yogurt because we always have it in the house. I'm concerned about that curdling though.

Door up, or door to the side? Front load washing machine.

I know I'm late to the party here, but it took me a while to figure out what part numbers I needed to order so I figured I'd add my experiences to the pile.

I have a Gen 2 Tisas B9r Carry 4.25" that I bought with the expectation of doing a grip swap right away.

https://preview.redd.it/o96utpmkiq5h1.jpg?width=2340&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=777af37b9cb94e192a2597589378b6b606e98c78

For the swap, the parts that you need are:

• The Prodigy grip module itself: PH0534 (Black), or PH0534F (FDE) "1911 DS PLASTIC HAND GRIP" - $39.00
• The mag release kit: PH0027-KIT "1911 DS HC MAG. CATCH PARK KIT" - $25.00
  • This kit includes 3 pieces, wonderfully preassembled. You could buy them as separate skus, but why?

Optional Parts:

• Main Spring housing kit: PH0079P-KIT "1911 DS MSH PLASTIC KIT" - $20.00
  • The Tisas MSH seems like it should work fine, but the Springfield part fit their grip a little better, and I wanted to try a different mainspring anyways. This "kit" sku once again comes pre-assembled with an 18lb mainspring so it just slides right in. No fighting that stiff spring to get the retention pin in.
• Extra grip screws? I didn't and had no issues reusing the Tisas screws but probably a good idea to have extras on hand.
• A slimmer beavertail? As you can see the Tisas beavertail fits fine but it does stick out more than it did on the Tisas grip. I have XXL hands and it doesn't seem to bother me, but I could see a lot of people wanting a new beavertail (grip safety) that doesn't stick out so far.

https://preview.redd.it/lvvo4lismq5h1.jpg?width=3666&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eaa8c900b865012da7d85e8c25b37127785c699d

Disassembled to show all 3 parts

The reason you need the mag catch/release is because the Tisas design is apparently non-standard:

Prodigy top, Tisas bottom. Not interchangeable.

My total from Springfield was $89.88 after tax. I think their threshold for free shipping is either $50 or $75, so I didn't pay shipping. I went online and used their chat function to set up the order, then I had to call in to give my credit card info over the phone. I think you can do it all over the phone if you prefer.

They told me the FDE grip was backordered and gave me a horror story that some people have been waiting since December to get theirs. I got no email or any sort of order confirmation after the phone call. My MSH and mag catch shipped within a few days, and then I did get a copy of the invoice emailed to me. Only about a week later (less than 2 weeks after ordering) I got another emailed invoice showing the FDE grip had also shipped. Much quicker than I expected.

Rough edges inside prodigy grip, before sanding.

The grip required no trimming or fitting to slide onto the Tisas frame, however there were lots of rough edges inside around the trigger and mag catch holes. My Atlas trigger was sloppy loose in the Tisas frame, but I had to do some minor work on the prodigy grip with a dremel and sandpaper to get the trigger shoe to slide freely.

This was my first time going anything like this, and it took me lots of fiddling to get the sear spring back in the right place. Still with that, and making the Atlas trigger fit, the whole job took only about 2 hours. I'm confident I could swap back to the original grip in about 5min now that I know what I'm doing. A pretty easy job for a DIYer.

I'm looking for a DA/SA gun with the primary reason of using it for dry-fire practice to improve my trigger control and sight acquisition/transitions. Secondarily it would be a range toy so being fun to shoot is also important. Must have a decocker. Optic cut is a plus but not required.

I'm also considering a PX4 and maype a P30, but the Nocturne ticks all the boxes and it's pretty cheap and I like the grip. No matter what I think I would end up doing a trigger job, and there are a ton of options for CZs.

Why shouldn't I get a Nocturne?

I know "best 2011 under $1000" gets asked endlessly, but it's hard for me to tell if there's any drawbacks on these cheaper guns when it comes to parts compatibility.

For example I know I love the Prodigy grip and apparently they are cheap. Will they fit on any 2011? Or only a few?

The top of my list right now are a Tisas B9R carry, Tisas Nightstalker, Fusion XP Pro, or maybe an LFA Apollo 11. Or is it worth jumping up a few hundred to a Romulus?

I don't live in a restricted state but the LGS has a restricted p10c in stock for a bargain price. How difficult is it to get the full capacity back?

I've got a BG2.0, CSX, and a TX22. Now I want a "nice" fun range toy.

I have no doubt a Shadow 2 or the X-Five would be best, but they're not in my budget currently. Are they worth waiting/saving months for, or would a P10c or PDP or PX4 get me 80-90% of the experience now?

No I don't have any opportunity to rent any of them.