Is there any way to get a toposolid cut pattern to NOT cover up a linked model's foundations?

Is there any way to get a toposolid cut pattern to NOT cover up a linked model's foundations?

Toposurfaces used to be fine in this regard. My building sections would show the Earth cut pattern below my toposurface, and any other solid geometry, including foundations in the linked structural model, would show up "in front" of the toposurface cut pattern.

Now with toposolids, they appear overlapping. The Earth drafting pattern shows up on top of and in addition to the structural foundations, making it look generally like garbage.

I REALLY REALLY REALLY want to avoid having to draw filled regions all over every section view.

https://preview.redd.it/cgypm2a8ivah1.png?width=862&format=png&auto=webp&s=189a53c62a9dac26d167ea021f6e21db024887e2

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u/PatrickGSR94 — 4 days ago
▲ 21 r/Integra

Key cylinder bracket replacement is pretty much done

I printed the second version, and found a slight interference with the start button, so I clearanced the 3D print slightly. Also made the hex holes for the nuts to hold the top M8 bolts a hair too small, and I got a crack when pressing the nut into place. No matter, I glued it, and installed it on the car anyway. Made a couple tweaks to the 3D file, shown here.

Haven't tried printing this 3rd version just yet, might do it later. Printing takes about 10 hours on the printer we have at my office. But for now, the 2nd version is installed on the car and works brilliantly. The steering column trim is fully secure, just as it was when the original key cylinder was installed. Hopefully heat won't be an issue. I've had PETG parts deform in the car in direct sunlight (phone holder bracket), but this won't be in direct sunlight. So we'll see.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 6 days ago

Sketch disappears when Finishing the sketch?

This seems to be happening in one particular model and I'm not sure why. When I create a sketch, draw a shape, then finish it, the sketch disappears immediately. Even a single closed circle sketch does this. So when I try to extrude from that sketch, there's nothing visible to pick. The eyeball next to the sketch in the list is grayscale. I can click on it and switch it to Hide. But when I click again, it comes back grayscale. If I hover the mouse over that sketch name in the list, it highlights in the workspace, but otherwise I cannot see it or select it at all. What am I missing here?

*edit* the whole Sketches heading was turned off. Didn't realize that was possible, probably clicked it by mistake at some point.

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u/PatrickGSR94 — 11 days ago
▲ 8 r/loseit

Another NSV: moved up a belt notch!

I've had the same leather belt with double rows of holes for probably 25+ years now. Bought it from The Buckle store in Opry Mills Mall in Nashville (how I remember that I have no idea LMAO, and the store is still there!).

Over the years my weight has fluctuated and so has the hole position I've used on my belt. When I was down to 175 several years ago, I was all the way to tightest hole, and even had to make another set of tighter holes at one point. But then, as I gained weight over the past couple years, I eventually ended up at the 4th hole out. I've started back on my journey 2 months ago, have lost 22 lbs now, and just this week I was able to comfortably go up to the 3rd hole out!

It's finally happening! Let's go!

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u/PatrickGSR94 — 11 days ago

Repairing the 2102SP mower speed control

Figured this might help someone Google searching, who might have a similar issue.

Last summer the speed control on my Ego 2102SP 21” mower stopped working. It was full speed or nothing. So for the end of last season and this year until now I’ve just been pushing the thing manually.

I removed the covers over the rear wheels and rear half of the upper handle. I found the potentiometer on the speed control, with 3 thin wires. I found the same wires down at the bottom with a harness connector. So I unplugged the connector and checked for continuity between the harness terminal and the potentiometer terminals. Found the black wire had a break somewhere. Green and red wires were good.

Instead of trying to find the break (likely impossible with those loom conduits), I just ran a new wire. I managed to fish a wire down through the upper conduit, down to the middle bar of the handlebars, but couldn’t get through the lower conduit. So I ran along the outside of that one with zip ties.

At each end I cut the existing black wire, and connected the new wires with heat shrink crimped butt connectors. Got it back together and it finally works like it should once again.

It was a little fiddly getting the wires and various micro switches back in place to get the covers back on, but I got it done. Any questions just ask.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 11 days ago

FU FDOT! Tried to pay multiple times, on phone and PC. Fine be that way, guess I'll write a CHEQUE!

https://preview.redd.it/l3xsto7pi29h1.png?width=851&format=png&auto=webp&s=bb43623c6af8f0987add9bab4fbd625f77cf7d7f

Tried to pay from my phone browser. Entered all info including CC. Got this message. Reloaded, tried re-entering all my info again. Same. Tried from my work PC, same result. Soooo, guess I'll write a paper fucking check. Last time I wrote a check was over 2 years ago.

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u/PatrickGSR94 — 13 days ago
▲ 75 r/Integra

Latest project

I replaced the key cylinder with the JDI ghost key button. This is the “upgrade” button, which requires removing the entire key cylinder assembly to fit in tue original key hole. That also means that the forward 2 screws of the column trim have nothing to attach to.

Cutting up the key cylinder is an option, to make room for this particular style of button. But I’m not willing to do that. Instead I’m designing a 3D printed piece to attach to the steering column and house the 2 screw holes for the column trim. I still have some tweaks to make to better optimize this for printing. Hopefully next week I’ll have something usable.

It’s really only the top clamp and the bottom 2 screw holes that are important. What’s in between doesn’t really matter. I just mimicked the shape to start out so I could take measurements and get the angles and locations correct. Once I confirm that I’ll probably make the middle portion a different shape.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 16 days ago

500 miles without axle nut: aftermath

Here’s what I found when taking that bearing apart that had been driven over 500 miles with no axle nut (Saturday’s post). The outer half of the inner race in the hub had massive gouging all around. The balls were all super pitted and dark looking. The inner half of the inner race was starting to gouge a bit,but otherwise in much better shape, and those balls were much more shiny.

So that’s what happens to a wheel bearing with no preload on it.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 19 days ago

Just rolled into my (home garage) shop: a miracle this didn’t fall apart and wreck the car.

500 miles with trashed wheel bearing, thanks to a missing axle nut!

This is insane. Few weeks ago a coworker’s 2011 Accord had the spare tire put on, a lug nut cross threaded, and the lug stud ultimately broke. This happened during their vacation week. He had to get the stud replaced at a local shop, costing a few hundred bucks.

The next week, he was asking me about a loud grinding noise the car was making, most of the way back home, about 500 miles. I rode in it, definitely wheel bearing. I couldn’t figure out why the wheel bearing would suddenly go bad. So he ordered a whole new knuckle from RockAuto to make it easy replacement, brought it my house, and we swapped it out.

When I first took the wheel off, after struggling with 150+ ft-lb on the lug nuts, I was shocked! NO AXLE NUT AT ALL (first pic)! That idiotic shop that replaced the lug stud did not put the axle nut back on! And my co-worker and family drove that car 500+ miles like that! I was astounded. I’ve heard of wheels completely breaking off, sometimes fairly quick, if the axle nut is left off. The fact that they didn’t crash the car seems like a miracle to me.

Anyway, we got it swapped out in less than 2 hours, and car drives great once again. The old bearing felt like gravel when spinning it around. New axle nut torqued to the 242 ft-lb spec and properly staked in place. And this is just yet another reason why I don’t take any of my cars to shops.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 22 days ago

Why so much smoke?

Just doing my usual chicken and burger cook that I do a couple times a month, but for some reason it seems like I’m getting WAY more smoke than usual. So much that I can’t really see what I’m doing when flipping stuff over. There’s no wood at all on the grill. Just the charcoal briquettes. I did use what was left over after my last long rib cook, plus some fresh. One full chimney’s worth.

EDIT probably grease on the underside of the grates from the previous rib cook.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 25 days ago
▲ 177 r/loseit

I am proof that weight loss is all about the calorie deficit

Calorie deficit. That's it. Whatever it takes to get into and stay in a calorie deficit is how we lose weight. Various tools can help get you there. For me, I do IF, daily workouts, and food tracking.

Back in 2019, I tried the Keto fad diet. Trying to cut as many carbs as possible. It worked for awhile. I stuck to it for 6 months, and went from 225 to around 175 pounds in that time. But then I sorta just fell off the wagon and stopped caring about what I ate. I was cycling to work a couple times a week, but that was it for my physical activity.

By the end of 2021 I was back up to nearly 250 lb., which appalled me. Starting right then, I got back to food tracking. I actually joined and followed the Noom program for several months, although in hindsight it's really not required (would not recommend, if they're even still around). I also started daily workouts. First walking, and then running, on days that I didn't cycle. Combined with 16-8 IF (only ate between 12-8 pm, mostly), the weight came back off. By Fall 2022 I was down into the 170's again.

I maintained in the 180's for most of 2023, but then fell off again. I kept doing daily workouts (I've barely missed any days since 2022), but stopped caring about what or how much I ate. 2024, 2025, the weight crept back up. As of 20 April 2026, I was up to 226 again. And I decided to get back to it. Daily food logging (free version of MyFitnessPal), calorie and workout tracking via Apple watch, daily workouts of at least 30 minutes, every day. Only eating between 12 and 8 pm, aside from my morning coffee with splash of half-n-half. And, daily weigh-ins, at the same time every morning. Overall I aim for about 700-900 daily calorie deficit. And no, that does not leave me hungry, at all.

As of today, 5 June 2026, I'm 208, down 18 pounds since 20 April. Hoping to get back into the 170's eventually. I've been there before, and I felt so much better at that weight. A few things I've learned through this journey:

  • I HAVE to track calories. I have to know where I'm at. That means using my Apple watch to track active calories, which feeds into MyFitnessPal to track my food and workouts, which then shows my daily calorie deficit. When I don't track, I tend to just eat everything in sight.
  • IF has been a big help at maintaining the daily deficit.
  • Brushing my teeth in the 8 PM hour also helps me to not sit around and snack at night.
  • Daily workouts are a habit at this point. I just do it. Making it a daily habit makes it much easier to not skip.
  • Daily weigh-ins also help me know where I'm at. I'm a numbers/stats type of person, so I have to know where I'm at every day, and always weighing under the same circumstances (morning before any food or drink, after the morning BM).
  • I try to get in a good mixture of carbs, fats and protein. I don't really track macros at all anymore. Whatever I can eat that will fill me up while still staying in the calorie deficit, is fine for me.
  • The Hacker's Diet is another good resource. I read most of it a few years ago, and still use the web-based charts and graphs to input my weight data. I only recently learned of the author's passing a few years ago, but the website itself is still up and running www.fourmilab.ch

That's it. Hope someone might be inspired by the successes (and avoid the pitfalls) I've had over the last few years.

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u/PatrickGSR94 — 1 month ago

Options for setting up an Autodesk user/license for Revit use in our conference room?

We have a conference room with large screen, and a PC connected, with Revit installed. We use it every day for various meetings, both in person and Teams. Typical conference room stuff. So how do I set up a user for that machine, given the 2-factor authentication requirement? We have an email address reserved for the conference room, and a Revit license available to use there in the conference room. But then I would have to set up a 2FA code on my own phone's Authenticator app, for instance. That may work for awhile, for 30 days or whatever, but then if it gets logged out when I'm not here, then other people in the office would be SOL.

We used to have the boss logged in all the time, and just never have the same file open on his workstation and the conference room at the same time. It worked fine when different files were being accessed. But apparently something has changed with Autodesk just this week, such that 2 machines can't even open Revit at the same time under the same user.

Is the only option, to tell users they have to close out of their Revit, and then log into the conference room machine, and fumble around with the 2FA garbage, EVERY TIME they have a meeting? That seems like a garbage solution, when we already have AND PAY FOR another license that could be used in there. Or is there some other way for multiple people to have access to an Authenticator code for this one PC?

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u/PatrickGSR94 — 1 month ago

What kickstand are we liking?

Years ago, when I got my wife's hybrid bicycle, I installed this cheap POS kick stand on it, ahead of the rear tire. It's probably the worst thing I've ever put on a bike. It's totally not stable AT ALL. If I shorten it one notch, the bike leans over too far. Extend it one, and it doesn't lean far enough. I constantly have to adjust it and flex it to make the bike stand up, and then to make it not interfere with the crank arm when raised.

I'm thinking one that attaches near the rear wheel would be better. Any suggestions?

*edit* don't really need a double kick stand. My wife doesn't ride the bike much at all. I mainly need to keep it stable when moving it around, like taking it out to the garage, to get it ready to put it on or take it off the car's bike rack, etc. She doesn't carry anything on the bike, ever. Doesn't even have a rack on it. But that current POS stand is just very unstable as it "stands" currently. I've had the bike fall over several times if it's on ground with any appreciable amount of slope to it.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 1 month ago
▲ 22 r/Miata

5 in a row

We had 5 small convertibles in a row at Cars & Coffee on Saturday. One of them was a BMW but we won’t hold it against him 😂 was also a 5th Miot but he had to park a few spaces down.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 1 month ago
▲ 1 r/pdf

We need an easy workflow to mark up PDF files on a Windows server, from an iPad device

We're a small architecture office that depend on PDF files for documentation, and often that documentation needs to be marked up, usually by my boss (the company owner). Drawings, specifications, contracts, whatever. Most production staff have iPad Pro tablets, which I'm managing with Mosyle. Pretty much everything is stored on a Windows file server, which also serves as our Active Directory domain controller.

We've been using FileBrowser Pro for several years now, to navigate to folders on the server, and then using the markup tools built into the app. When finished, the PDF gets saved back to our server. Usually, the markups will show up fine when opening that same PDF on a workstation in Bluebeam. But recently we've had issues where the markups are being saved as a "stamp" in the PDF, and the markup content itself doesn't show up at all. Plus, the Stamp layer in the PDF is totally locked out, with the Lock option grayed out.

Anyone know of any other solutions for accessing and marking up PDF files on an iOS tablet?

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u/PatrickGSR94 — 1 month ago

Adjustable end links for OEM ITR rear sway bar?

Has anyone ever seen any sort of adjustable end links that could work with the OEM ITR 21mm rear sway bar, and OEM lower control arms? I've had the OEM ITR rear bar (bought brand new from Baranco Acura in ~2004), used with stock and also F7 rear LCA's, using OEM end links. Since the car is lowered, and the sway bar sits closer to the subframe than on the ITR, it puts the end links at a pretty bad angle and deforms the rubber bushing pretty bad. An adjustable end link would need to have a spherical rod end joint on the lower end for the LCA bolt to go through, and then a fork fitting on the upper end to capture the bushing in the ends of the ITR sway bar.

I sketched up an idea for this many years ago, but never did really pursue it.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 1 month ago

Shimano 105 ST-5700 brake lever all gummed up

My road bike's right side (rear brake) 10-speed ST-5700 brake/shift lever has been rather stiff or "gummy" feeling for at least a year now. It was shifting up and down fine, but when pulling the brake lever, the lever just stayed "pulled". I could still apply the rear brake with it, but I had to push the lever back out to release the brake. I finally got around to taking it apart last night while preparing to replace bar tape, and I noticed that the smaller lever that the main brake lever pushes, the lever that moves when shifting to larger cogs, is the sticky part. It doesn't want to spring back into position. Everything looks super dirty and greasy inside. That's what 14 years and 25,000+ miles of riding will do to it I guess.

I found a really good ST-6700 Ultegra disassembly/reassembly video, and most of the parts look similar on mine. But I'd rather not get into a full teardown if I don't have to. What's the best way to clean and grease/lube the internal shifting mechanism?

I currently have the unit off the bike, the brake lever (with upshift lever) assembly itself removed, and the side cover removed that exposes the shifting gear wheels and pawls.

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u/PatrickGSR94 — 1 month ago

Memorial Day Weber rib smoke

Since Heath Riles just won Memphis In May Grand Chanpion last weekend, I figured I would smoke up a couple racks loosely based on his competition cooking style, with several HR rubs, then glazed at the end with some sauces I had on hand. 250 for the first 2.5-ish hours with oak wood smoke, then a couple more hours wrapped at 300. Simply amazing.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 1 month ago
▲ 313 r/grilling

Works in a pinch but it sure ain’t no Weber!

Grilling some lunch outside the beach condo!

u/PatrickGSR94 — 2 months ago

3” Hercules polisher, very first use.

Pulled away the very first time I tried pulling a pad off the Velcro surface. Anyone else? Works great otherwise.

u/PatrickGSR94 — 2 months ago