u/Sneekysas_sas

A while ago I was looking for a yerf dog 3203 axle with snap ring grooves but couldn’t find any, so I just decided to order a fully keyed 45 inch axle, (original is 39 - 1/2) and then I measured each snap ring groove made 2 lines for each groove with a 1/8 width and moved them down by 5-1/2, I did this for all 7 grooves, then I used a 1/8 thick angle grinder disc and I carefully made the grooves and filed/deburred them, they all fit nicely and are surprisingly straight. But I’m just curious, dose this compromise the strength of the new axle?

Today I was using my Milwaukee Fuel M18 impact driver paired with a red lithium forge 12 amp hour battery, I’ve had this tool for about 5 to 6 months and haven’t really beat on it that hard, Come to today, I decide to use it and decides to also crap out on me. I have no clue why this happened, and I’m pretty sure it’s not from the battery as the battery wouldn’t really affect anything with this tool since the tool is on the 18-volt platform. Is this something that would be covered under warranty?

I just opened a box full of parts I bought about a week ago and I found this million dollar bill in it, it basically asks if you’ll go to heaven or hell and a bunch of examples of what’s right or wrong. I’m assuming this was put in here by someone who packages the parts? I’m just curious as to how this ended up here.

I’m about to blast this kart and I noticed a sheet metal screw on the engine mounting plate, there was only one but directly across from the first one was a hole that I assume would be for a second one, is it some sort of grounding screw? It’s a yerf dog 3203 and looking at the assembly guide it doesn’t show a sheet metal screws there.

I know this is probably the shittiest fabrication mockup you’ve seen, but it’s the best I could do for right now, I included a photo of the go kart as well so you can hopefully better understand how it will work or as to what I’m getting at, I’m trying to adapt this hydraulic break to my yerf dog 3203 for better breaking at high speed, my idea was to use the existing linkage bracket on the go kart and bolt the caliper next to the existing linkage and run a longer bolt through both linkages so when the brake is depressed the plunger on the caliper moves with it thus compressing the break fluid giving me hydraulic breaks.

Sorry in advance if my photos are shitty

I made a post a while ago, probably titled “is the A-Arm on the yerf dog 3203 removable?” And people said yes it is. So I went and bought propane, MAPP gas, oxyacetylene kit and none of the worked, I just said whatever I’m gonna cut it off, I thought I might even be able to see how badly it was rust welded. Well it turns out there is no bolt, or there was? I have no clue to what happened here but I’d like an explanation.

I know these welds are SUPER shitty but all I want to know is if this will hold, it’s being used on the bottom of a go kart to prevent the sheet metal from flexing. I used 0.30 flux core welding wire with a MIG welder.

I tried removing my A-arms on my yerf dog 3203 but they won’t budge, I took the nut out successfully but the bolt will not slide out, I’m either assuming it’s not ment to be removed or it’s rust welded itself on the A-arm.

Today when I was driving, I was going through a slight curve and I felt a bump I went for about a quarter mile more and when I tried to turn, it felt like I’d hit something hard, I went out of the car to go check what had happened and the passenger side control arm was completely snapped off from its mounting place, it had completely corroded through. I was taking a look at the subframe and it also had some slight corrosion on it, I was just wondering if I should also get that replaced as well? The main thing I’m wondering is, is this salvageable or should’ve just go to the junkyard? Because it runs perfectly fine and drives smoothly, obviously until this happened. It’s a 2006 PT cruiser two-door convertible. 125,000 miles on it.

1st is before touching the carburetor, 2nd is rough adjustment, and 3rd is the most recent adjustment. It’s a mikuni 32mm carb with its stock jets, I was also doing this on idle since I currently don’t have a throttle cable, not the most accurate but it’s whatever. Predator 420.

I just recently finished my predator 420 build. It will idle for a while then just die, before this I noticed it was flooding badly. So I turned the choke off and turned the idle screw all the way in to allow maximum airflow, idles fine then suddenly dies. I have a flat slide mikuni carburetor, as of right now, it won’t start anymore, even with idle screw in + choke off. I’m really hoping it’s not bad.

I made a first post about new tires I got, that was on me, I measured them wrong and I returned the old new ones and bought new ones, theses ones are sealing but what is happening is that the inside rim lip won’t step up into the bead, I’ve tried lube, ratchet straps, pry bars and screwdrivers, I removed the valve stem for more air and it’s holding but the tire just isn’t fully seated.

I just got done building this engine and it unfortunately doesn’t have spark, I cut off the oil sensor wire AND the charging coil wire since it no longer serves a purpose, I just want to know what I might have did wrong and how to make it get spark again, I tested it against the block and there was no spark. (If you’re wondering about the black

wire it goes to the spark coil, it ripped off when putting on the flywheel, I stripped the copper parts and connected them so they should still work.)