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When you disassemble the Tilt Angle Sensor (TAS) You"ll find this small circuit board. The first thing you'll need to do is disable any of components. I did this with a box cutter scoring across the board where the 4 pins are attached. I scored both sides of the circuit board. Then I used a multi meter and verified that each pin was "DEAD". I ALSO CHECKED FOR CONTINUITY BETWEEN EACH PIN . Verified that each pin was dead. All I had was 3 pins attached to the circuit board. Then I soldered the resistor to the pins. The center is the easiest to identify. The other pin it closest to the tiny magnet on the board.
The problem was a failed "Tilt Angle Sensor". I'm not about to spend nearly $100.00 on a sensor I don't need. The solution is a $1.50 1K Ohm resistor. I'm not done yet, I will use the dead sensor as a dongle. I would never ride my machine with this setup. But the good news that I wanted to share is the 1K Ohm resistor eliminates the lean angle sensor. I will post again with the detailed instructions on what pins to jumper and what I did to make the dongle .
At the moment my trike is on life support. After some diagnostic research I found that my "Tilt sensor" is toast. What a Royal PITA to remove this sensor. One of its mounting screws is tucked beneath a frame cross bar. I am not about to shell out nearly a $100 to buy a new sensor. I have some resistors on the way. This will bypass the tilt sensor and be done with it.
Ran 27 miles with the low level indicator on .. I was getting concerned.
Just my observation on the results of deleting the O2 sensor and a bypass of the AIS. A great improvement in reducing the deceleration popping and a smoother power curve through the gear shifts. No more flat spots!
There are kits that can be purchased to bypass the Air Injection System. I didn't go that route. I simply plugged the line on the rear side of the air filter housing.
The best DIY headlight lense restore product. No sanding or buffing tools needed. Just light to moderate finger tip pressure. I wish that I took a "before" photo to show you what they looked like when I started. Total time was 15 minutes.
My side skirt were corroded below the A pillars. I installed these and painted then black. Turned out well.
I use a DIY VACUUM extraction method. The vacuum pump is an old vacuum pump from a food storage bag kit. The jar is an old olive jar which I added two nipples and applied JB Weld epoxy to seal the nipples. The in-line check-valve (1/4") prevents vacuum loss.
The hoses are silicone I bought the hose, check-valve and vacuum pump on Amazon.
I use a DIY vacuum bleeding process. The vacuum pump is an old vacuum pump from a food storage bag kit. The only thing I did to the pump was to add a nipple for the hose. The container is an empty olive jar which I added two nipples and then sealed the nipples with JB Weld epoxy. I added a simple one-way check valve to prevent loss of vacuum back through the pump.
You can buy the check-valve on Amazon. Amazon also has the silicone hoses. This brake bleeding set-up makes bleeding your brakes simple and efficient.
My DIY O2 SENSOR BYPASS. The purpose of doing this is to eliminate the deceleration popping. This is a two step endeavor. I also did a DIY bypass on the AIS (air inj. sys).
I replaced the stock horn with a pair of OEM VW Jetta horns. I did not modify the bike's factory wiring. I ran a feed directly from the battery to a relay. I used the horn switch wires to actuate a relay which powers the horns. This setup also lets me charge the battery without the need to remove the seat.
I've read so many people talking about rust in their fuel tanks . Since my Bolt is 11 Yrs old I was getting concerned. My pump wasn't priming as it used to. So I went on Amazon and bought a $15 bore scope . Was I ever amazed because I didn't have very high expectations for a $15 bore scope. The first photo is the fuel level sensor. That's looking good. The 2nd photo is the tank's inner sidewall. I have some minor galvanic staining but nothing serious. The tank is very clean . I attribute this lack of rust to two factors. A) I use about 2oz of ashless two-cycle oil every fill-up. B) when I put my bike up for the winter I fill the tank with ethanol free fuel and the two-cycle oil.