u/Twit_Clamantis

By day, the “Kontrol Module” is just a normal 125x400mm track module with a turnout and a siding.

Note that the corners are rounded and open on both. This keeps them from getting dinged and chipped, and also allows for easy passing of cables back and forth.

The 2nd picture shows that the ubiquitous Bachmann controllers also fit really well.

The 3rd picture shows a 125x200mm module for when less is still enough. And still plenty of room below for a battery pack. (The track module in 3rd pic is 200x400 and can accommodate 2 turnouts.)

(Ok, not really Kaos, but I’m amused by alliteration … )

I wanted to be able to mount my controller to a wooden module, along with a bunch of switches and possibly a second controller as well.

I couldn’t find that anyone else had done this, so this is what I came up with:

- I popped open the controller (the screws are under the rubber feet) and CA’ed 3x 8-32 blind nuts to the bottom (I had already marked and drilled the holes.

You don’t need to use blind nuts but they are nice because they have a deep thread, lots of surface area, and the barbs help lock it in place 100%.

- I have a lot of 12V Eflite power supplies, so I swapped the Kato connector to one that fits the Eflite. I put the old one in a little baggie and tucked it away inside the controller in case I ever want to switch back.

- I like blinking lights, so I added some blinking lights.

Still to do:

- Lock down the switches securely.

- Install a second controller.

- Make and install a battery pack.

- I want to be able to use this on layouts with modular configuration that might change from time to time. I think I will mount a strip of white 1/4” dry-erase board behind the switches to note what any of them are switching on that particular day.

Anyway, this is it for now. I will use it as is for a few days before I decide what to do next.

This is what I was asking about yesterday.

I wanted to be able to bolt the controller down along with the switches and maybe a second controller.

There is also room under the module for an 18650 or similar-size battery pack, so I could run a couple of small trains all day without needing AC power.

I opened it up and CA’ed 3x 8-32 blind nuts inside. While I was at it, I also changed the power input to a slightly different (that was a drop-in replacement) and that fits Eflite 12V power supplies of which I have a plentiful supply.

I also did a couple of other things as can be seen in the last pictures.

I would like to also mount the small Pocket Line controller on the right side, but I’m not delighted with how that cable sticks out etc.

This is good-enough for now and I will run it a bit to see how I like it before doing more.

The switches have keyhole slots but they are mirror image of each other and won’t work normally.

And the power pack doesn’t seem to have any sort of mounting features whatsoever.

I thought of putting Velcro strips across the bottom but I’d prefer something neater.

Do any of you have a solution you like?

I decided to cut up some floor tiles. Trying to make holes for specific sizes is too fussy for me.

I’m going to redo these with all lengthwise slots, and put them a bit closer together but it’s still not a very inspiring solution.

If anyone has a better setup please let me know.

I have never used a crossover and I find them a little scary.

I would like to build this layout where the back and left side (where the greeen bridges are) would be elevated above the rest of the track.

The red bridges would be open-ended to connect to other modules,

For now, this would be powered by DC.

Do you see any electrical complications with this setup due to the crossover?

For the record, this is all Kato N-gauge Unitrack and the crossover is p/n 20-210,

https://www.trainworld.com/kato-20-210-310mm-12-3-16-double-crossover-turnout-kato-20-210.html?gad\_source=1&gad\_campaignid=281308030&gbraid=0AAAAAD1niu7G9cGGWF6TQpP6Damcj7tz-

Tiny trains for tiny layout (:-)

The bits I cut off from each car are front of each of them.

They didn’t come out factory-perfect but they’re good enough for me and I’m happy (:-)

It seems that planes of this type are usually pushers.

Leaving aside considerations of CG and of packaging efficiency, wiring convenience, etc., what aerodynamic considerations will influence the choice of pusher or tractor if designing an airframe with this general configuration?

Mr. Starrett approves (:-)

I apologize in advance to the Redditor who complained about my profligate and flagrant use of dinosaurs on my train layouts.

(I also apologize for the mixed English and U.S. buildings, for the HOn30 trains alongside N-gauge trains, for the moon landing module, the NYC subway map, for the mini-modules covered in pretty paper, for the green bridge “borrowed” from an XTS children’s toy train set, and for the Rokenbok elevator.)

I picked up this little loco this past weekend. It’s lived a rough life, but seems very happy to run around my little track and is even happy to pull more cars than I would have expected.

No markings or ID of any kind anywhere though.

If any of you know manufacturer etc, please let me know.

I have a couple of these ubiquitous guys that just kind of showed up (:-)

Their normal input is 16 VAC because they pass it along to the spring-loaded terminals to power track accessories.

My problem is that I seem to always misplace the 16 VAC supplies.

The AC input is then passed through a bridge rectifier etc. Will anything awful happen if I hook it up to 12 VDC input?

I realize that without the headroom I might get reduced power or whatever. But will it catch fire or damage the thing itself?

This weekend I bought a very old loco at a train show.

It was described as non-working and it only cost $10 - I have no complaints.

When connected directly to power the motor did not turn, but after cleaning it came to life and ran great.

In order to disassemble it, the brushes have to be removed. I took it apart again in order to oil the bearings. When I put it back, I accidentally crushed one of the brushes.

I talked to Atlas on the phone and they were very nice but they no longer have those parts.

Google / eBay / etc have not been helpful with finding a replacement,

If you know of where I might find brushes for this please let me know. They are small cylinders approx 1.75 mm diameter and approx 4 mm long.

The part number is 110015.

Any help or pointers will be appreciated.

If actual brushes cannot be found, would it be nuts to put the lead of a mechanical pencil in a drill chuck and sand it until it fits?

I realize that the material is brittle, but it’s cheap and I’m ok with that. I am more concerned about the actual conductivity of pencil lead, and also concerned about it being more abrasive than the real thing and possibly wearing out the commutator.

(I would also be ok with replacing the motor if a replacement is available for reasonable cost.)

This weekend I bought an old loco at a train show.

It was described as non-working and it only coat $10 - I have no complaints.

When connected directly to power the motor did not turn, but after cleaning it came to life and ran great.

In order to disassemble it, the brushes have to be removed. I took it apart again in order to oil the bearings. When I put it back, I accidentally crushed one of the brushes.

I talked to Atlas on the phone and they were very nice but they no longer have those parts.

Google / eBay / etc have not been helpful with finding a replacement,

If you know of where I might find brushes for this please let me know. They are small cylinders approx 1.75 mm diameter and approx 4 mm long.

The part number is 110015.

Any help or pointers will be appreciated.

If actual brushes cannot be found, would it be nuts to put the lead of a mechanical pencil in a drill chuck and sand it until it fits?

I realize that the material is brittle, but it’s cheap and I’m ok with that. I am more concerned about the actual conductivity of pencil lead, and also concerned about it being more abrasive than the real thing and possibly wearing out the commutator.

(I would also be ok with replacing the motor if a replacement is available for reasonable cost.)

I’m slowly making progress on my little layout:

- The re-railer / bridge that I made from a Kato rerailer and parts of an unlovely flatcar is mostly finished (and even gained nice railings).

- The “valleys” are ok but the transition to flat seems too abrupt. I plan to add a couple of small raised berms at the transition lines to heighten the contrast and to help disguise the transitions.

- I decided to extend the valley on the right side as shown in the pics.

- I also have not decided if this will be HOn30 or N. I have more N buildings and more of my N rolling stock has Arnold / Rapido couplers that will interconnect. My HOn30 stuff is all different brands and none of their couplers have especially nice things to say about any of the others.

- I might do a shallow, round valley in the center, but I don’t know what to put in it.

- I want to do a tunnel / mountain along the left side and back corner but don’t know how tall to make it and what to have on top. The height can be anywhere from 2.5” to 4-5”. I would love to make it something composed of just desert rock formations because it would save me having to do greenery etc, but on the other hand my ability to sculpt convincing stone formations is approx zero (:-)

(I did mention that this is my first layout, yes?)

Kato makes a great many varieties of Unitrack. But sometimes a particular size is missing, or the local hobby shop is out of stock or the big brown truck of happiness is late …

I had a package of 282mm radius 45 degree track, but they were a little too long. And I didn’t want to wait. This whole thing took only 10 minutes to do, including taking the pictures.

The plastic trackbed that Kato uses glues up very well with CA.

I used a razor saw to cut the track off at 2 of the bulkheads. The bulkheads make it easy to sand everything square so it can glue back together well.

Next thread the track stub in place and glue the track back together.

Use a Xuron track cutter to cut the metal tracks flush.

Pop in the Unitrack rail joiner and you’re done!

Thank you all for your suggestions.

I messed around with trying to zenithal painting but it didn’t work that well.

I had watched a few videos and they said it should be done with airbrush but can also work with brushes.

The trick though is that to have any hope of doing it with brushes, you have to have a very good idea of what you’re doing (and I don’t) (:-)

Anyway, I might attempt it again after I get an airbrush but otherwise it’s good enough for now.

Decisions, decisions

The Good:

- the valleys have been filled in

- the edges of the module have been reinforced around the valleys and all is very solid

- the bridge is great (it will get railings soon)

The Bad:

- I was not able to put any texture in the valleys. I might do an additional thin layer for texture, or maybe glue pebbles in place. Thoughts?

Next steps:

- the gray tic-tac-toe area in the back will be a stone wall

- I need to decide if this module will be strictly N or dual-purpose w HOn30. If only N, the tunnel can get lower.

- I can’t think what to put on the right side of the loop. Right now I thing the mountain should be mostly stone and I should put some trees on the ground inside the loop as shown.

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?