u/Twit_Clamantis

This came out of an old television studio.

It is labeled:

Cine-Lite

CL-900W

Made in Japan

A02Y

I cannot find anything similar using the G.

It’s interesting that it has a thin wire wrapped around the bulb connected to the positive contact.

However, the big question is about the nature of the insulation around both ends of the glass.

Is it asbestos ??

I was going to do something steam-punky with them (I have 3), but not if they are potentially hazardous.

I have this unopened set.

It comes with 3 passenger cars. The locomotive seems CRAZY-TINY (technical term). It is roughly the same size as the Kato steam loco from the Pocket Line.

The Kato loco is a dummy with the motor in the passenger car behind it.

Does this Royal Blue loco have the motor inside it, in the tender, or in a car behind it?

I can’t seem to find any information at all about it online. If anyone is familiar with what it is and with how it works I would appreciate it very much.

30-ft sailboat used for very casual “messing around in boats.”

The gap in front of the rudder had a couple of movable flaps that broke off.

I have some ideas to fix this, but I also want to just launch the boat.

If I do nothing to fix it this season, how much speed will this cost me?

Will there be any other negative effects that I should be concerned about?

No damage, no rust, barely used, everything works as it should.

I’ve been making some super-simple not-even-remotely-ambitious (:-) houses for my little HOn30 layouts.

I have been finding the window frames, glass and curtains to be a huge PITA.

But I also want to put lights inside, so I need to do something…

I thought of using a regular printer to print the wall etc onto a piece of overhead transparency, then gluing the window frames on the front, gluing the window frames in place, and painting the “wall” part with something that hopefully won’t let light leak through.

And then once I find a system that works, I will shrink it down for use on tiny N-gauge layouts.

Do any of you have any advice or examples of simple / quick buildings that don’t look like plastic ?

I want to build a simple layout with concentric loops of Compact Unitrack of 117, 150 and 183mm radius.

It will have 2 mountains, 6 tunnels, 12 tunnel portals and a big trestle in between the mountains.

I wanted to stack the tracks at the back in order to have a gentler slope forward for easier scenery etc.

The Kato Steeple Cab (and a couple of other locos) are ok w the steep grades etc for the first 2 loops.

For the top loop, I still need to lift the track above the middle level to provide physical clearance, but because there is less linear length of track available, this means that the slope is higher and the locos don’t like it.

One solution is to add 29mm extensions (circled in yellow) which makes the track not overlap physically, and which will solve the clearance / slope conundrum.

1 - are there any other good ways to square this circle?

2 - once I settle on a track plan that works in “sketch mode” (with Legos), what’s the best way to reproduce it for when it will be permanently inside the mountain?

3 - I want this to be freestanding like a big pizza layout without a backdrop. What’s the best way to provide access to the inside of the tunnels?

Earlier today I posted a question about mounting a header strip but did not fully explain my context.

Hopefully these pictures will make my limitations more clear.

Also, if anyone does have a better solution that does not require me to engage in craftsmanship I would love to hear about it.

The box in the pictures is a stand-in for a small model railroad layout module with N-gauge track.

I want to make little bridges that will allow the trains to cross from one module to a neighbor module.

The bridges need to plug in in a downwards motion, and not side-to-side (trust me on this one, it really would be too boring to have to explain / illustrate).

The ends of the rails have a keyed component made especially for this purpose that is soldered to the rails.

In addition, I will solder 2 pins projecting downwards from the bridge rail, such that in addition to the header strip physically securing the bridge, it will also supply it with current to move the train.

The AMP header that u/ suggested (shown in the last picture) is kind of perfect except that it’s 6.4mm thick instead of the 2.5mm thickness of the header strip.

The modules are 390mm wide and need to slide past a “gate” that I cannot enlarge. Therefore using the AMP headers on both sides would require me to make the module itself 8mm narrower and this does not seem like a good tradeoff.

I need to mount a header strip to the side of a box made from 3mm plywood.

It needs to be attached mechanically with screws and removable. Sticky tape, CA or epoxy will not work.

Also, physical clearance is an issue. Any protrusions need to be kept to a minimum.

The only idea I have so far is to remove a couple of pins at either end and drill a hole and counterbore.

This would work, but I would rather not spend the time etc doing this.

If anyone has any other alternatives I would be grateful.

I’m looking to wire up a bunch of Kato N-gauge turnouts. One setup would be the diagram where a toggle controls indicator lights and turnout position.

Because the turnout is not supposed to stay energized, it is also controlled with a momentary pushbutton downstream of the toggle.

My only concern is that it’s possible to get things out of phase if I flip the toggle and don’t push the pushbutton.

Do any of you know a reasonable way to interlock the indicator LEDs with the position of the turnout?

Or alternatively another way to achieve this?

I have a handful of Burroughs 5092 nixies but no sockets.

Female pins meant for d-sub connectors seem to fit very nicely.

It seems that others used these pins w 3DP sockets, but that seems problematic re soldering etc.

Do any of you have experience (either first-hand or hearsay) with seating the pins in laser-cut MDF holders?

Do you have any other ideas for this?

A small loco w a voltmeter attached to it goes all the way around “Half-Pie RailRoad” which has now grown to 3 modules and a total size of 1,200mm x 350mm.

So since it’s no longer the size of half a pizza pie, but is now almost a whole pizzeria into itself, the new name is L&B RR after a pizzeria in Brooklyn by that name (:-)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%26B\_Spumoni\_Gardens

There were lots of other sights in Tamaqua that were interesting, beautiful, historic etc, and that could enhance any layout.

If you are going to be in the area, leave some time for “doing-research-by-driving-around-aimlessly” (:-)

Parts 1, 2 and 3 are the 3 locos I just posted. The green, yellow and black locos are circled in the picture in green, yellow and black.

The station has a very attractive and detailed design and it looks to have been recently restored 100%.