Pre-steel self-contained 100% hot steam vent tamer

Pre-steel self-contained 100% hot steam vent tamer

I was sitting on my flipped asteroid without transporters and determined I really wanted to tame that steam vent for power and water and funsies. I managed to get a drecko through the Printerceptor for plastic, but I have no access to iron or gold amalgam. Only copper and wolframite.

I came up with a plan: If I have steam turbines and can run them, then I have 95 C water coming out of them, which is less than the 125 C overheat temperature of a copper aquatuner. With this thought in mind, I came up with a build that can tame the steam vent, feed the water in to a mini-SPOM, and cooled the oxygen to about 10 C.

https://preview.redd.it/3pwfykpojiuh1.png?width=2560&format=png&auto=webp&s=4d06a263872f389c0950203d61ad4fd998531527

Here are the main highlights of the build:

  • Extracts 100% of the steam from the steam vent.
  • Extracts the vast majority of the power efficiently from the steam vent
  • Has no steel components.
  • Extracts all the excess water from the steam room within the dormancy period.
  • Very power positive and self contained.
  • This should work effectively on any non-geotuned hot steam vent, and could probably be modified for geotuned cool steam vents as well.
  • This was built in debug as a proof of concept, but there is no reason it could not be built in survival.
  • The steam room peaks at an average steam temp of 206 C with this steam vent, which quickly goes down to below 200 C during dormancy.

First, the physics of the steam room itself:

https://preview.redd.it/jyokbw56kiuh1.png?width=2560&format=png&auto=webp&s=3507b4f37ebe16556aa0d04ad395f0ef9c6595ca

I built this using my 100% gas vent tamer technique, where I utilize the liquid-gas bypass mechanic to force the steam to leave the critical tile of the steam vent immediately, leaving it open for more steam to come out about a second after the previous one. While this could be used for infinite compression, the steam room will always drain between dormancies as long as there is a place for the water to go.

Since the room is hotter than any pump I can build can survive in, I put in an escher waterfall to force the sulfur to loop. Due to my material limitations, I use sulfur and naphtha as my two liquid required to make this work, but the liquid could be petroleum or liquid phosphorus just as easily. I used about 8 tons of sulfur to fill the loop.

The crux of this build is that I use the 95 C water to cool the copper aquatuner before the water leaves to the SPOM or back to the room.

https://preview.redd.it/hfsqy15xjiuh1.png?width=2560&format=png&auto=webp&s=0401ad3deec4e8d1405db0c8e7b52468ce3309a6

https://preview.redd.it/kpxcu5jzjiuh1.png?width=2560&format=png&auto=webp&s=235a50df5a3f4595c8e1405760c65145b7cebd4c

Here, I have two steam turbines, so 4 kg/s of water. I take one of the steam turbines (the left one) and split it in to 2 1 kg/s pipes to protect the pipes from breaking and run them above and below the aquatuner. In theory, the use of this mechanic/exploit is unnecessary and arguably sub-optimal,as I'm not taking advantage of the boiling temperature loss.

The right steam turbine cools down the lower heat sink, which connects to the upper heat sink via a door. The door closes when the water is below 102.15 C (yes, you can have that level of precision on temp sensors), which has not boiled in the time I have been running this system, which is about 2. This leads to the 2 kg/s of water coming out at about 101.9 C.

Additionally, I also send the hydrogen from the mini-spom through the aquatuner room.

All of this works together to keep the aquatuner barely under the 125 C overheat temperature. I submerged the aquatuner in polluted water, except for 1 tile of 10 kg of nuclear waste (which I have from slamming radbolts in to walls), which has a much higher thermal conductivity than polluted water and helps drive down the temperature faster.

The aquatuner then cools the liquids on top of the steam turbines, which in turn cools the SPOM and the outgoing oxygen.

Here is the automation:

https://preview.redd.it/me0benl8ciuh1.png?width=1067&format=png&auto=webp&s=51e8137f3530205902534982ae0a0dfc5b4529b6

In the steam room, I have a liquid vent with a liquid pipe element sensor, which I am using as a beefed up atmosensor. I want the steam room to maintain a high pressure, so this will send a green signal whenever the steam pressure in the room is above 1000 kg. The liquid shutoff releases a blob of 0.1 g water every 12 seconds, which is always blocked unless the liquid vent outputted it.

In the aquatuner room, I spent a lot of time messing around with the variables. I learned that buildings don't appear to take overheating damage if they only spend one in-game tick over the overheat temperature, so I put in a temp sensor to turn off the aquatuner if the room ever gets above 120 C. Additionally, I turn on the two steam turbines if the temperature gets too high in the aquatuner room to cool it down, prioritizing the left steam turbine.

In the steam room, I have 2 thermosensors. The one at 140 C triggers the left turbine always and it trigger the right turbine if the pressure is below 1000 kg/tile. The one at 180 C triggers the right steam turbine. If the steam room is over 180 C or the steam pressure is below 1000 kg/tile, the water from the right turbine ends up venting in to the steam room.

Some Math: To cool the steam turbines at full bore at 206 C (the peak temperature they hit), I have to be able to remove 96.78 kDTU/s for each turbine, leading to a total of 193.56 kDTU/s being loaded in to the aquatuner.

Assuming my aquatuner is at peak temps allowed by my build, that means that I am heating 2 kg/s of water by about 29 C and another 2 kg/s of water by about 6.9 C. That is a net cooling of the aquatuner by 200.59+57.67 = 258.26 kDTU/s from the water alone. This could in theory be improved by about 1.5 C on the hotter liquid by venting the water near the aquatuner and letting it boil, then further heat to ~119 C before being added to the steam room, probably with a bypass pump.

That leaves an excess of 64.7 kDTU/s of cooling on the table, which can easily cool the SPOM's outputs, especially if I then cool the aquatuner with the hydrogen. The extra cooling potential is about enough to cool the outgoing oxygen to about 10 C. This is assuming the steam turbines are running at full bore on 206 C steam constantly, which they most certainly are not, so the average oxygen output is lower and the aquatuner often lies dormant due, having extra cooling potential.

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u/Zarquan314 — 6 days ago

Is there a protocol for encrypted image cropping?

I have a project where I have a large plaintext image that I want to "crop" in to a small encrypted image without revealing what part of the large image the small encrypted image is a part of. The small image is a tiny portion of the bigger image. The position (e.g. the top left pixel) is hidden, but the size is not.

I'm looking in to either using partially homomorphic "classic" public key cryptography with zero knowledge proofs or fully homomorphic encryption.

The requirements are flexible as long as I can end up with an encrypted image that could be anywhere on the larger image. While it is not necessary that the encrypted image can be literally any rectangle in the larger image, I am hoping that any pixel in the larger image could be in the encrypted image. The thing I'm trying to hide is the general location of the encrypted image in the larger image.

I've done some research and haven't seen anything, but finding things like this can be hard. I've regularly found things that I was looking for inside complex papers that solve a very specific problem.

EDIT: I can't believe I forgot to say this, but the goal of this is to prove to another person that the image was cropped correctly.

Does anyone here happen to have come across such a protocol or proof?

EDIT: Some details derived from answers questions in the comments:

  • The person who is cropping the image knows the unencrypted image and is trying to assure other people that the encrypted image is actually a crop via something like a ZKP, MPC protocol, or an FHE function execution by the verifier with encrypted arguments from the Prover.
  • So the goal here is to prove that the encrypted image is a crop of the larger image.
  • Also, I forgot to mention that I would also like the prover to be able to have a ciphertext or ssiphertexts of the position of the top left pixel of the encrypted image position within the larger image and be able to prove that that positional ciphertext(s) is accurate.
  • Cropping is the isolation of a small rectangular portion of an image while discarding the rest. Imagine taking scissors and cutting a photograph so that you discard the uninteresting parts to leave only the parts of interest to make it fit better in a frame.
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u/Zarquan314 — 1 month ago

Issues with UPnP using BubbleUPnP

I'm trying to use BubbleUPnP to cast to foobar2000 (Windows and Android) and I have two major issues that make it hard to use.

Before I list those, I have been able to reliably do most of the things I want, like select music, go to next/previous track, change volume, stop, and play/pause.

First, it always lists the volume at -1 on BubbleUPnP and often shows the volume all the way at the bottom. Now, I can change the volume by sliding the slider to a specific point and it will change in foobar, but I have to guess or remember where the volume actually is if I want to turn it up or down, which is undesirable.

Second, when I try to seek within a track, it brings up an error message, retyped by hand:

>Current state of service prevents invoking that action. Error reading response failure message. Can't transform message payload: java.io.IOException: tag 'UPnPError' not found: (code :501)

I suspect these things might be related, so I'm making one post about it.

I'm a novice at this, so I don't really know what could be causing this or what to do.

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u/Zarquan314 — 1 month ago

Having remote control functionality from Android to Android using foobar2000

I've been working on solving a sound problem, where I have a large venue and I want to be able to choose arbitrary songs from anywhere in a large area, up to about 200 feet from the actual controls for the sound system.

I did this using the Windows version, and I found two solutions that work over WiFi:

  1. UPnP, controlled by BubbleUPnP, which works well enough, except that it was sluggish, adding a delay on the controls, and the volume control wasn't very good.
  2. MonkeyMote Lite, which worked perfectly and is what I want to do. It did everything faster than the UPnP version when I was actually using it. This also has the benefit of letting me theoretically have multiple people's phones be remotes, which I don't think I can do with UPnP.

My plan was to use the venue's computer, but I couldn't arrange for that, so I unfortunately had to use my own computer. It worked almost flawlessly (just needed to tweak some things unrelated to foobar), but it was annoying to have to bring it in and set it up weekly and it added a lot of clutter. So, I decided to try to set it up using an old smart phone as the server with my current smart phone as the remote. I mean, a smart phone is just a small computer, right? ....A small stupidly locked down computer....

I got the UPnP version, but it is sub-optimal, as it has all the drawbacks it had on Windows.

I would prefer to continue using the MonkeyMote approach or something similar that keeps the music on the foobar machine because it performed better. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a way to install components on Android, so I can't install the MonkeyMote component that I installed on Windows.

Is there a good way to enable remote control of my foobar2000 on Android A from an Android phone B, using Android A's local library?

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u/Zarquan314 — 1 month ago

Properly addressing specific library in portable foobar2000 installation

I have a rather odd situation with my music where I want to use foobar2000 to handle music on a Windows system that isn't mine. To do this, I have a plan to put foobar2000 on a flash drive with all my music on it and put that in the computer and run it. My plan is for the music library on the flash drive to be the only one that it sees.

I would like to make it as plug and play as possible and not pick up on whatever music is already on the computer, but there I have a problem. I can't seem to figure out how to make it pick a directory relative to itself as its library directory.

See, depending on how many drives there are, it may have a different number of drives, and that would cause it to have a different drive letter. If it's D:, then "D:\Music" would work, but then if there was an extra drive added and the drive was given E:, then it wouldn't find anything at "E:\Music", requiring me to go in to the foobar2000 settings and change the library, which is annoying, especially since I'm hoping to have people less tech savvy than me operate this system.

Is there a good way to define a folder relative to the executable as a library? In Linux, I'd say something like "./Music" for the address.

There are specific reasons for me to want something like foobar2000, (remote control from phone and/or UPnP)

EDIT: Egg on my face, I accidentally installed the non-portable version! The portable version does this flawlessly for libraries on the same drive. You just add the folder normally and it automatically makes it a relative address.

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u/Zarquan314 — 1 month ago

Get rid of chat bar under Discord stream

https://preview.redd.it/u2xe99dgbumh1.png?width=2560&format=png&auto=webp&s=094f457fd7124ba119ab258bc9ad7883756d476f

I often watch my friends do things on Discord using the streaming function on full screeen, but sometimes I have the nerve to press a button while selecting their stream, causing this chat bar to appear. Is there a way to dismiss it? The only way I've found is to leave and reenter full screen.

It is the area marked by the red box, which is part of the full screen stream I was watching.

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u/Zarquan314 — 1 month ago

Controlling volume through remote UPnP connection

I just installed foobar2000 for the first time for its UPnP receiver capabilities (allowing me to "stream" or "cast" music without distortion from my phone to the computer), and I love it! It works perfectly with the random UPnP app (BubbleUPnP) someone recommended for my phone in another thread, allowing me to play music from a computer without having to download it to the computer first (EDIT: Not downloading the music beforehand is required for my use case, as I don't want to put these specific MP3's on the computer to avoid them showing up in a shuffle for anyone else. Unless I can put it on a flash drive and have it be detected without configuration).

However, there is one function I appear to be missing: the ability to control the volume.

My BubbleUPnP app can start and stop the music and it has volume buttons on the notification and it looks like my phone is trying to do something to the volume with the volume buttons, but they don't do anything to the computer's volume settings or foobar's volume settings.

Is there a good way to control volume from my phone? Preferably altering foobar2000's volume slider? I would be fine switching from BubbleUPnP if necessary.

I hope it's a simple setting, but the settings menu is a bit daunting...

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u/Zarquan314 — 1 month ago
▲ 1 r/audio

Streaming music from Android to Windows over long distances

I have a rather odd scenario where I want to control music over a large area (about 200 feet max from the controls of the sound system, so Bluetooth is out.) The sound system can be controlled by a PC, but it isn't my computer or my area, so I want to have as little of an impact on it as possible, even to the point of not putting my music on the computer if possible. I would like to not have to go 200 feet to change the music, as that is tedious and annoying.

I want to be able to choose the music (MP3s), play, and pause from my phone. If I could control volume, that would be nice, but the music is pretty consistent in its volume and I don't think I need to adjust it.

To that end, I was hoping to play/cast/stream my music from my personal phone to the computer, so I order music to be played from my phone and it plays out of the computer (and therefore the sound system). While I'm not a professional, I really don't want to hear things like pops or anything. Everything I've tried so far has been pretty lousy, but I'm not sure how to find the right software.

I was thinking of doing this over WiFi, as it has the range in theory.

I tried a program called "AudioRelay", which has been the best so far, but it seems to have a lot of stutters and pops, which is undesirable. It also messes up the tempo, speeding up and slowing down randomly.

My goal is to have a program I can run on the facility's computers that I can interact with using my phone to play music, but then when I close the program and leave, the use of the computer appears unchanged for the regular staff who handle the computer (I really don't want to be a nuisance to them).

Is there a good way to do this?

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u/Zarquan314 — 2 months ago

Dupes getting stuck in stress animations

I've been having a problem in my latest colony where my dupes seem to be getting stuck in certain places when they get stressed. The dupe will stay there, even when starving (maybe suffocation) until they either die or make a mess or I order them to move. Here are two clips of dupes being stuck:

https://reddit.com/link/1vdscb2/video/083pl88cr0hh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1vdscb2/video/8aa577cwr0hh1/player

I notice that they are at the end of a row of oxygen mask docks in both spots (where a checkpoint would be). These (as far as I know) are the only two spots where it happens.

Here's a link to by bug report on the Klei forums: https://kleiforums.com/klei-bug-tracker/oni/duplicants-getting-stuck-in-expressive-actions-r61245/

Is this a known bug? I do run some mods, but I don't think any of them influence duplicant behavior.

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u/Zarquan314 — 2 months ago

Waking from sleep with "Flip to Start" off

I like to be in control of my computer's power state such that the only thing that will make my computer turn on is pressing the power button. I've managed to stop things like my mouse and keyboard from activating the computer, but the lid is being stubborn.

I disabled (or confirmed the disabled state of) "Flip to Start" in both the BIOS and Legion Vantage, but it still wakes up when I open the lid. Is there some other setting I'm missing?

My computer is a Lenovo Legion 5 pro 16IRX8.

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u/Zarquan314 — 3 months ago

The Slickster Ladder: Overflow slickster satisfaction habitat

TL;DR: This build forces slicksters in a cycle where they enter a ranch room full of critter condos to get cozy, and then are forced out to an unbounded room. I estimate this makes it so that the slicksters are satisfied more than 3/4 of the time and therefore increase the CO2 to oil conversion rate of your slickster ranches by 12.2 times in a single generation if the excess eggs are deposited in this build. It can probably support hundreds of slicksters, if not over a thousand.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Whenever I make a build involving critters, people around me tell me I'm being mean to the critters. The word "torture" and "inhumane" pop up, so I thought I'd build a nice little machine that makes slicksters who would otherwise be "Glum" be "Satisfied". I can't be torturing them if they are overall happier afterwards, can I?

As many people know, a critter that is "glum" has a major hit to their metabolism, and therefore eat less food and produce less of their biproduct. However, when they are satisfied, they eat as much as if they were happy.

I think it looks kind of like a fish ladder, so I'll call it a slickster ladder. The build only has a few slicksters in it at the moment to prove the concept, but I suspect it could support hundreds of slicksters, if not over a thousand (simulation permitting) if you can provide the CO2 to feed them.

This is an unoptimized prototype made in debug/sandbox mode to prove the concept, but I see no reason why it can't be built in survival. It is somewhat complicated, so I will attempt to break it up.

https://preview.redd.it/p9rta5zqicdh1.png?width=2560&format=png&auto=webp&s=032b23ec4c7f644c0275e9c4106a191e32738da3

First, there is the lower section, which is a forced timed path for the slicksters to take. Every 77 seconds, all the slicksters move on to the next platform. It is important that there be an odd number of platforms in the lower section to ensure that the slicksters who leave the upper chamber arrive at the upper chamber a cycle later in it's non-flooded state. I make sure the pneumatic door behind them (ensuring they go the right way) closes first and the ensure path in front of them is safe before I close the door above them, triggering "drowning", by including a 2 second buffer timer.

https://reddit.com/link/1uwylzl/video/ucz0t6q57cdh1/player

Next, there is the transition to the upper section and the upper section itself. Here, I have a bunch of critter condos for the slicksters to get all cozy in. They are forced up there due to the stacked liquids on the only path up, allowing them to get cozy. Once the timer sensor switches to green, the room starts cooling. It is full of low pressure steam, which condenses and forces the slicksters back to the lower section. This is triggered with my falling edge detector (the filter gate in to an XOR gate) in to a memory toggle. Once the room is low enough pressure, I start heating it up again so that the slicksters in the next group will have more time to interact with the critter condos.

I use nectar, but I suspect I could have gotten away with petroleum as my heat transfer medium.

https://reddit.com/link/1uwylzl/video/k739r77o9cdh1/player

The heat/cooling system is a bit large, but considering we could easily expect this build to create large amounts of petroleum in a finite space, it should be worth it.

The cooling is handled through two aquatuners, as one was not enough. I suspect that it could be optimized to only require one aquatuner. This transfers heat from the cold side to the hot side. Every other reservoir interacts with a different side (cold, hot, cold, hot, etc). Doing this let me dump heat in to the build faster than if I were to implement one loop. Because I'm lazy and didn't do the math to determine which was required, I included a steam turbine in case the steam room gets too hot and a tepidizer in case the steam room gets too cold. I used nectar as my coolant, but I could have used polluted water instead.

https://reddit.com/link/1uwylzl/video/5n0sjbgracdh1/player

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The benefit of the build:

The slicksters in this build have the potential to be satisfied instead of glum. That means they will consume CO2 and produce petroleum/crude oil much faster. And the lower chamber can be "roomwise" connected to an extremely large space outside of the build to prevent overcrowding. I only have 5 or 6 slicksters in there, but I could easily have dozens or maybe even hundreds on each of the individual stages, each satisfied and ready to do conversions.

Additionally, each of them gets to lay an egg. They each only spend around 77+~50 seconds in the small room where they can be overcrowded. Even if they spend 77+77 = 154 seconds in there, they would be spending 1/4 of their time being miserable and overcrowded, meaning they spend 3/4 of their time being satisfied. Since they only need to spend ~63% of their adult life satisfied to lay an egg, they get to lay one, meaning this is theoretically a build that can scale infinitely. However, there are severe limitations that prevent that in practice, namely getting enough CO2 to actually run the thing. But this does mean the build is basically self sustaining critter-wise. Once set up with critters, it will continually consume CO2 and produce crude oil, petroleum, meat, and eggshells as long as the lower chamber is kept a decent amount above 100 C (to prevent long-haired slicksters).

Additionally, every tile a slickster can occupy in this build is covered by an autosweeper, so duplicants don't need to enter it to get the materials. The liquid on top of the petroleum on the pneumatic doors is liquid phosphorus.

https://preview.redd.it/c2nfq5vsccdh1.png?width=2560&format=png&auto=webp&s=2565b3b2796be452a7d98f3c815a807bd24ad3c3

All in all, this is a great build that can hold extremely large numbers of slicksters who are mostly statisfied.

-----------------------------------------------

Reasons for doing this: Slickster Math:

If you have one tamed, groomed slickster and you killed all it's offspring except one to replace it, you would get 955 kg of crude oil/petroleum and 60000 kcal over their 100 cycle life, which is 600 kcal/cycle and 15.9 g/s crude oil/petroleum (accounting for 5 cycles of tiny baby).

If you have one tamed, groomed slickster and you put all it's eggs in this machine, then each of its offspring would also produce crude oil, albeit a bit slower, without scaling in the amount of space they need dedicated to them. Assuming they spend 3/4 of their time satisfied and 1/4 of their time miserable, that means that 14 of the eggs (15-1 to replace in the ranch) will, over the course of their lives, produce 764 kg of crude oil/petroleum. Therefore, the single slickster in your ranch is responsible for 955+14*764 = 11,651 kg of crude oil or petroleum over 100 cycles (assuming no longhair slicksters), or 194.2 g/s crude oil/petroleum, which is 12.2 times more production per groomed critter. And this doesn't take in to account that this doesn't consider future generations born in this build.

And crude oil isn't just energy, it's water. That's 72.8 g/s water per slickster, which is almost to support a duplicant!

This makes it practical to deal with all the CO2 in your base with slicksters.

Plus, if you have enough slicksters, you can take all of your CO2 or petroleum sources and multiply them by 8/7 based on the looping resource chain (CO2 -> petroleum -> CO2, resulting in a geometric series that results in 8/7) to get even more usable resources from things like oil wells and ethanol distilleries.

I haven't tested this build against an extremely large number of slicksters, but I do intend to build this in my next colony.

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u/Zarquan314 — 3 months ago

Windows keeps giving my mouse and keyboard the ability to wake my computer

I absolutely HATE it when I put my laptop to sleep, close it, unplug it from all my peripherals, put it in my backpack, and, uh oh, I nudged my mouse a millimeter or I accidentally pressed a keyboard button and it wakes up without me noticing and burns through its battery in my backpack.

On multiple occasions (at least three or four at this point), I have looked at my "Powercfg -devicequery wake_armed" list and disable them, but then later come back to see repopulating with my mouse and keyboard, no matter how often I go to my the device manager to uncheck the box or use "Powercfg -devicedisablewake" to remove them. They are the same mouse and keyboard.

Is there a way to permanently make it so that the literal only way my computer will wake up from sleep is when I press the power button and so that my computer won't randomly decide to repopulate that list and wake up when I don't explicitly tell it to?

If it helps, my computer is a Lenovo Legion 5 Pro 16IRX8.

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u/Zarquan314 — 3 months ago

How do I play a song by genre from the music in my phone?

Title error, I meant to add "by voice".

About 10 years ago, I put genre information on a collection of songs and I could ask my phone "Play a _______", where I would say the genre, and it would play a song of that genre from my music on my phone using Google Music (or whatever the better google music app was called), which was extremely convenient, as I could easily change the song I was listening to without having to stop what I'm doing, taking out my phone, and fumble with a touchscreen. After a while, it started doing a google search instead.

Is there a way to get that functionality back? I don't want to use Youtube Music because I refuse to cooperate with "We made a new app that's missing critical features to replace the app that had those features!"

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u/Zarquan314 — 3 months ago

Is there a way to make some apps not autorotate without disabling autorotate globally?

I like to sometimes read PDFs on my phone while lying down or at somewhat weird angles, but that makes the phone go landscape so I have to disable autorotate. But then I'm driving and I turn on my GPS and put my phone in its stand and it stays portrait while I'm trying to follow the directions. It is quite annoying.

Is there a way to make it so my PDF reader app have autorotate disabled without disabling it for everything?

I saw some older answers, but I'm hoping that Android has evolved since then and has a native solution, but I'm not opposed to getting an app to do it.

I'm using a Moto G 5G stylus from 2023.

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u/Zarquan314 — 3 months ago
▲ 1 r/UsbCHardware+1 crossposts

Does it make sense to attach a heat sink to a hotspot on the case of a device that gets hot?

I have a couple devices (a USB C hub and a portable monitor), but I've noticed get quite hot on their metal cases, sometimes to the point that I think it would burn be if I kept my hand on it for too long. I don't have a great way of measuring it, but it's hot enough to hold but for my body to say "You should really let go", which I think puts it between 40 and 50 C, but I could be wrong. It's significantly hotter than my gaming laptop's power brick. Those temps would be fine on components, but I have to imagine that means the actual heat producing components below are even hotter. I think that's expected for these devices, but they are also meant to be more portable than what I am doing with them, so I was thinking that I might mod them to help them live longer.

I'm concerned that the heat could be decreasing their lifespans. If I want to increase their lifespans, does attaching super basic heat sinks to their outer casing at their hottest points to try to cool them down have any meaningful effect on device longevity? Or would it be a negligible difference?

The bot is saying that this may be off-topic, but I'm thinking device maintenance also falls under tech support, and I hope the people here agree.

u/Zarquan314 — 3 months ago

Framework 16: Could I use the unused contacts from the keyboard for a USB device modded in to the trackpad module?

I was thinking it would be amazing if I could have a basic screenless drawing tablet built in to my laptop. My original thought was to put a partially torn down bluetooth drawing tablet in and tap come power from the trackpad's power pins, but the problem is no one makes a wireless drawing tablet small enough and I don't know how to mod it in that way.

So, I had a thought. Each of the keyboard positions has their own set of pins on the chassis, right? So if I were to create a thin cable that could carry that USB from the keyboard pins to the trackpad area, I could then mod an existing 4x3 inch <2mm drawing tablet to potentially fit in to the mouse area to the left or right of the trackpad and still even have room for the trackpad.

Using this approach, all kinds of basic low power USB devices could be added to the mouse area for increased modularity, which I think would be awesome even if the only idea I'm interested for me is a drawing tablet.

EDIT: Some other ideas I just had now that I'm thinking about it: Maybe an NFC card reader? Maybe a low-power wireless phone charger? I could even imagine having a small hub of wireless dongles for different mice and keyboards I might have in multiple places sitting in the trackpad module, not taking up external ports. Of course, this would all have to be pretty custom, but I could imagine someone wanting any one of these, and that's the beauty of modularity.

Is the idea of tapping the keyboard section's unused USB pins sound, or is there something I'm misunderstanding about the inner workings of the machine. I don't actually have one to look at or test, so I don't know if the different sets of pins are each their own independent port on some kind of internal hub or just literally the same electric contacts in different places.

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u/Zarquan314 — 4 months ago

Voicemeeter macro button shortcut key stops working

I use VoiceMeeter to control which of my audio devices gets sound. I have it set up for my internal speakers, my headphone jack, and my bluetooth headphones, meaning I have broken connections regularly due to unplugging my headphones or turning off bluetooth.

To fix this, I have a macro button bound to a hotkey that restarts the audio engine when I connect my headphones, which usually works great. I turn on my headphones, they say connect, I press the hotkey, and I can hear. However, sometimes the macro button does not register the hotkey until I restart the macro button, and I'm not sure why this happens. I know I haven't given too much to work with, but I'm posting here in case this is a known problem with a known solution.

I use sleep and hibernate, but I haven't noticed either triggering the phenomenon unless it's intermittent.

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u/Zarquan314 — 4 months ago

Monitor arm/adjustable stand for non-rigid surface

I'm not sure if this is the right place because it's not really about a setup at a literal desk, but I can't find a better place to ask.

I'm trying to make a couch lap desk-based docking station for my laptop. I have a super light portable monitor that is compatible with VESA that I want to mount in some way above the lap desk with some adjustability.

Having literally no experience, I bought an arm (MSI MAG MT101G) that clamps on to my desk, as I thought it would easily let me place the monitor where I want it and move it around in pretty much any way I could want. And, since it is clamped to the lap desk, it won't fall off the desk itself.

However, I didn't realize that the arm I purchased didn't have adjustments for the stiffness of the joints and it is clearly designed to be used on a rigid, flat surface.

If I stay in one position, it is stable and does everything I want, but if I move, the monitor flops around. And if I put the lap desk on a non-flat surface, it can flop over and fall off, which is much less than ideal.

I'm not really sure how to tell what I should get to do what I want. Is there a way I can make the arm (or an arm) more rigid without losing the ability to adjust it? Or maybe an arm that locks in place unless I pull a lever or something? Or another kind of stand? Keeping in mind that the monitor itself is super-light and I need to be able to comfortably support this on my lap.

Attached are a couple images of what I currently have. The upper monitor is attached via the stand and is unstable. Below it is another older portable monitor. To the left is the actual laptop, which I set up as an optional third screen. The whole setup is a work in progress, and I intend to secure the cables when it is complete. One thing to note is that this setup has two cables going to it (a USB C from the computer and a USB C power cable) and one cable going out of it (USB for the mouse, not necessary). All other cables are internal to the desk. The entire thing can be picked up and carried to another room by simply unplugging two USB C cables and carrying it away, making space for social activities or letting me move the setup to another room.

Here are some of my goals or things I like: I like the ability to move the monitor closer to my face for if I want to look at something close, and I like that I can flip the monitor around to show someone standing nearby what I am doing, but that isn't really necessary as, in a pinch, I could put it on the lower monitor and literally hand it to them to look at. I like that I can (in theory, not in practice) adjust the monitor to whatever position I want on my couch. I don't need to be able to pivot the upper monitor.

If anyone could help me, that would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: It would be nice to have a solution lighter than the arm I got, which is about 5 lb or 2.25 kg

u/Zarquan314 — 4 months ago

Dual portable monitors: One not hitting peak refresh rate

I have a compact "desk" setup with two portable monitors that I am trying to connect through a single hub. Here are the links to the specific monitors:

2560x1600 240 Hz: https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-007D-000B8

1920x1080 60 Hz: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087792CQT (5-6 years old)

I am connecting them through this hub: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Docking-Station-Ethernet-Windows/dp/B0CCXZWS9C

I am connect the better monitor via HDMI with external power and the other monitor through the USB C with DisplayPort port. However, Windows does not show an option for 240 Hz on the 240 Hz monitor, only 180 Hz. When I unplug the 1080p monitor, the fast monitor can go to 240 Hz.

I am using a Lenovo Legion 5 Pro 16IRX8's back port, which is (if I am understanding correctly) a USB 3.2 Gen 2 with DisplayPort 1.4.

Is this a limitation of the port? Or is this a limitation of the hub? Or is it something else?

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u/Zarquan314 — 4 months ago