I was told I should get a kit that contains minimum these bits - Torx T20, T25, T30 , Philips PH1, PH2, Square SQ1, SQ2 - which I think this kit contains, so I purchased it.
I saw another kit for $30 more which was 100 piece set, but I don't know if it's necessary to get all those bits.
I need this for connecting to my Sony camera for some videography stuff so I can keep it powered for longer. Minimum wattage required is 27W and prefer at least 20000mAh.
I purchased an Iniu 20000mAh 65W and the display is not visible at all outdoors. It is just too dim. The product photo was very deceiving.
Does anyone know any that have a brighter display or have those old school 4 LED lights that are nice and bright?
I tested two motherboards, one from MSI (B860i) and one from Gigabyte (also B860i). I was surprised to find a slight different in performance. I first used and tested the MSI board, but I decided to exchange recently because of some issues with the power LED and sleep/shutdown states. After completing the build with Gigabyte board, I immediately noticed it was more 'snappy' when I started windows. It overall booted faster and everything just worked faster.
I tested in Cinebench 2024 and the Single Core test was almost the same 133 for MSI and 131 for Gigabyte. However the Multi Core test was different, it was 1733 for Gigabyte and 1636 for MSI.
Both I had set to the same XMP profile and I checked the memory latency in Aida64 and on the MSI the latency was like over 105ns but the Gigabyte was around 92ns. I was only able to get the latency down on MSI to that amount by manually tweaking the memory in the BIOS.
I still have to look more closely at the BIOS settings to see if Gigabyte is enabling some performance enhancements or not. The only thing I did was to enable XMP profile but everything else was default.
So anyway do different motherboard brands and models actually perform differently? Or am I observing something else.
Is this normal on Gigabyte boards? When I put my computer to sleep in Windows, the computer turns off and the power LED turns off too. However I expected it to blink on and off to indicate it is in a sleep state. In the BIOS there are no settings I can find for the power LED behaviour.
All other motherboards I've tried work with blinking power LED in sleep mode, this is the first I've encountered that doesn't, although this is the first Gigabyte board I tried ever, the rest I've used were from Asus and MSI.
For those cases that cover over the camera control button on the 16 pro and 17 pro, how do they work to enable all the functionality of the button, since some of it is touch sensitive?
How do the functions get transmitted between the phone button and the case camera button?
I just bought the P62-E1 (20,000 mAh, 65W) but I was surprised at how dim the display was when I turned it on compared to the product photos. Is this normal? Are all Iniu powerbanks the same with dim display? Makes it impossible to see outdoors in daytime, I can't read it at all, I have to go back inside or go somewhere really shaded and dark to read it.
I have older powerbanks that use the 4 LED to indicate charge status and those are nice and bright and easy to see in all conditions. I wish manufacturers would go back to something simple like that.
I bought an Intel 250K Plus and I initially paired it with an MSI B860i motherboard. But I want to return this motherboard. It is ok, everything works except one thing, the sleep/shutdown states do not behave as I expected. (Wake from USB device wakes on all states S3, S4, and S5) So I don't want to wake from full shutdown, but it does anyway and there is no way to change it. Another issue was in sleep mode, when AC power is lost and restored, the power LED resumes flashing as if computer is still sleeping but it is not.
Anyway the choices remaining after eliminating others that are out of stock, price too high, or due to features, issues etc)
- Gigabyte B860i
- ASRock Z890i
I was considering just getting the Gigabyte B860i but then saw it uses the MediaTek for WiFi 7. When looking this up, it seems people prefer the Intel WiFi.
My alternative that is also available, is the ASRock Z890i which is only $25 more, so pretty close in price and it uses Intel WiFi. However it has VRM fan which is kind of a dealbreaker for me. I could probably make it work out by disconnecting the VRM fan.
Anyway what do you guys think? My choice right now is really is based on the WiFi. Is the brand of WiFi something to consider when choosing a motherboard. Or do they all work pretty much the same and I should focus on the other features?
I hate the way the wake from usb device works on my current motherboard (MSI B860i) and was thinking to exchange it for the Gigabyte B860i instead. But I wanted to know how it works on Gigabyte boards first.
My current board wakes up when I press keyboard or interact with any connected USB device for all three states S3, S4 and S5. This is ok for S3 and S4 (sleep and hibernation) The thing is when I shut down my computer I expect it to be OFF, no power, and not wake up when I accidentally press a key on my keyboard. Unless I'm using Wake on Lan feature which is separate from USB wake.
Does anyone know how this work on GIgabyte boards? Is there any option to disable wake via USB in S5 state?
MSI B860i Edge TI WiFi
BIOS - 7E43v1A50
OS - Windows 11 Pro
I don't know if this is normal - Today when I shut down my computer, I had a USB card reader connected to my front USB-C port. After shut down and computer is off, I removed the SD card from the reader and it triggered the computer to boot up again.
I tried a second time to be sure and every time I shut down and power is off on the computer, when I remove the SD Card from the reader it powers back up.
Is this a feature or setting? Or is something wrong.
EDIT: The next morning when I was about to turn on my computer (it was shut down from the previous night) I accidentally pressed one of the keyboard keys (Logitech with USB dongle) and it turned on like it would when it is triggered to turn on during sleep mode. However it was not in sleep mode.
What is the capability of this phone to track subjects. I'm more interested in wildlife, birds, animals, etc. My Sony camera has built in AI subject recognition, and I know the newer Sony Xperia phones can do it too, but does this phone have anything that comes close to that? If it's not built in, are there any apps that can do it?
I don't know how useful it is anyway on a smartphone because of the large depth of field, most things are going to be in focus anyway.
But regardless I was just curious, I did a search using copilot and it suggested some pro camera apps, but it says that the iPhone doesn't have the built in ability to do subject recognition (like distinguish between birds, animals, cars, etc like dedicated mirrorless cameras can). I don't know how reliable this info is though which is why I thought I'd ask here just to make sure.
I just bought this camera, it was working perfect. This morning I decided to do the firmware update because it kept notifying a pop up in the app. I assume it completed because camera no longer shows as offline.
After the update I am unable to connect fully to establish live stream or do any functions that require live stream like set detection zone or view SD card. I cannot access SD Card either to format or view disk space.
My mobile app is version 3.6.6 and the firmware after update on Wyze Cam 4 shows 4.52.9.5332. I was trying to update to whatever the current latest is 4.52.9.6119.
EDIT: I manually reverted back to an older firmware by downloading 4.52.9.4188 from the support page and copying it to SD Card. I can now connect to the camera normally and all functions appear to work as before. Just leaving this here in case it helps someone to resolve this issue.
EDIT2: I found out the issue after reading more carefully the firmware release notes, it's because my Android app version is below 3.8.5 so I'm stuck with the max firmware of 4.52.9.4188 for now until I get a new device that has newer Android version supported by the latest app. My version is 3.6.6 which can't connect to camera with newer firmware.
This could be easy to prevent if Wyze modified their mobile app to allow only firmware update to versions that are compatible with app version. If not compatible just pop up a warning saying to update the mobile app first. So simple.
I have Home Hub 4000, and subscribe to 1 Gig internet plan so I definitely have enough bandwidth. I have three older set top box (one PVR VIP2262 and the other two standard units VIP2202) that each have the VAP3400 connected to them to enable wireless connection to the modem.
Anyway every time my laptop (Macbook early 2013) is connected to the 5GHz network and I'm doing something on it like browsing web pages or downloading something, my parents who are in another room watching TV experience issues with the signal. They say the program they are watching keeps freezing, has pixellation, etc.
When I switch to the 2.4GHz network, the problem goes away. So I'm basically stuck using 2.4GHz network a lot of the times so I don't cause the issue.
I'm not doing anything extreme, when I had this happen just a few moments ago I had three browser tabs open (two from UGreen and one from Amazon) I was doing nothing particularly interesting, just researching and shopping for a new power bank. Before this issue happened I had also just restarted my laptop so nothing else was running except for the Edge browser.
I find it weird that I can't use the 5GHz network without causing problems with the TV streams. I know the TV signals uses hidden 5GHz as well but is the modem really not able to handle the traffic of one connected device and one TV stream? There was only one set top box in use at the time, the other two including PVR were not on, and there were no recordings taking place either.
Does anyone know why this is happening? Is there a solution?
I have a drop in bit rate every 40 frames in my footage. I want to use the Frame Replacer to replace these frames.
Can it be done faster than scrolling through and selecting each frame manually? I have thousands of frames in multiple clips to go through.
Davinci Resolve Studio 20.3.1
Windows 11
I have the MSI B860-i Edge Ti WiFi motherboard and had to use the clear CMOS button once on the rear of the IO panel, but when I did I noticed that it sticks out a bit more than the Flash BIOS button.
I'm asking because I never had a motherboard with those buttons before so I just wanted to make sure before my return window expired in case it was damaged or something
Is it normal for one button to be a tiny bit longer than the other?
MSI B860-i Edge Ti WiFi
Windows 11 Pro
Intel 250K Plus
I just built this computer and noticed a strange behaviour my previous builds didn't have.
When I put my computer to sleep in Windows, the power button flashes to indicate it is in sleep mode. Sometimes I don't have time to go back in and do a full shut down so I just switch the power off on the power bar to shut everything down.
On my last two previous builds (one was an Asus B450 / AM4 and another was an Intel / MSI Z890) whenever I did this and restored power, the power button remained off (not illuminated in any way).
But in this build, when I restore power, the power button begins flashing as though the computer remembers it is still in sleep mode (even though that is impossible due to the memory being wiped after power loss). Something must be remembering this last state it was in.
When I push the flashing power button it just turns on and becomes solid (no longer flashing) and computer boots up normally like it's supposed to.
Does anyone know why it is doing this and if there's a way to get it to behave normally (i.e. power button light remains off when power is restored)
I was just curious since LiFePO4 is supposed to be safer wouldn't it make sense to make those small portable power banks people carry on planes and such out of this type of battery?
I mostly see this type of battery used in those larger power stations. Is there some technical limitation to using this battery type in small power banks and the only option is lithium ion?
Motherboard - MSI B860i
Ram - Crucial 5600 CL46 96GB (2x48)
CPU - Intel 250K Plus
I first set my memory to XMP profile 1 (5600 46-45-45-90 1.100V) with everything else on Auto/Default, I have training mode set to Optimized. I ran TestMem5 and it passed without error.
I then switch on Memory Extension Mode, setting it to Performance Mode and I found it really works to boost performance, scores went up on some benchmarks I tried like Puget Bench.
However, even though my system appears stable (I never experienced any crashes or anything yet during normal use), when running TestMem5 it shows some errors. I'm using the DDR5 Intel @ anta777 configuration. The errors are usually 'Error in test 0' but also it happened in Test 13 and Test 3 a few times.
In BIOS I compared settings with and without performance mode and these are what changed (first value is before, second value is after turning on Performance Mode)
Main Timings - No Change
Sub Timings
tREFI - 5460 -> 32767
tCCD_L - 14 -> 16
tCCD_L_WR - 56 -> 54
Turn Around Timings
tRDRDSG - 14 -> 16
tWRWRSG - 56 -> 54
Advanced Timings - No Change
I guess my question is, more about tREFI, like for example if I want to decrease it to achieve stability, at what increments should I try because I don't think going 1 at a time is realistic for such a large value.
I noticed when I select my XMP profile, and then I increase my frequency to see how high I can go before instability, the timings increase each time when I reboot. Are we supposed to let them increase or should we change them from 'Auto' in the BIOS to the fixed value that was set upon boot from the XMP profile? (i.e. the values that were stable for that XMP profile)
Platform is Intel (250K Plus) on an MSI B860i motherboard
RAM is Crucial 5600 CL46 (96GB 2x48)
I already bought, installed and tested the Assassin King 90 V2 on an Intel 265K, It preformed really well, almost identical to the Noctua U9S which I also tested. But I had to return it because it was slightly misaligned (the heatsink with fan was pointing very slightly on an angle when you view it from above)
I'm debating if I should reorder it or go for the cheaper Assassin X 90 SE V2 which is half the price ($23 cad).
Does anyone know if they perform similarly? Or is the version with 5 heat pipes much better?
