u/handms09

Maybe I need a pricing reality check?

Transitioning from winter to summer we realized we didn’t use it as much as we thought.

Let me lead with, I know this thing isn’t a looker, but mechanically it’s nice and tight. I spent months looking for a reasonable priced 6 speed car that wasn’t clapped to hell. I saw rust, leaks, just downright neglect in my price range.

I finally found this unit that was a slow pace project for a guy who stumbled into a WS6 and decided to move it before dumping more money in it. When he started it was an all stock SS with a slung rod. When swapping to a gen 3 he painted the bay Mopar PBM with intentions of going the full car. Unit has a clean title with no damage.

GMPP hot cam, tsp long tubes, aluminum radiator/catch can, hawks master, Texas driveline stage 2 t56 kit, various umi parts, fresh tires, no ac and the fuel gauges dances sometimes.

I’d like to walk away with $6500? Is that too much? Seems like I’ve had tons of trade offers or “I’ll come look tomorrow” with no follow up, and a handful of “$5000 cash money” offers. I can find a dime a dozen 4l60 cars in this range with ‘decent’ paint, but no 6 speeds.

Model: RAS8244LQ0

Wife sent me this video a few days ago. The first thing I did was spin the agitator by hand (bad cogs/dogs). Replaced those with the full repair kit. That issue is resolved.

However it still just wants to hum and not spin on wash cycle. You can change the timer to the spin cycle and it will spin and drain like normal.

Flipped it over, nothing in the drain, with the motor off the input shaft will spin the agitator in counter clockwise, and start turning the clutch clockwise.

The coupler plastic pieces are all in tact but the rubber bushing does have some slop in the holes. Is this enough to warrant the issue?

Motor spins freely by hand with a tiny amount of magnetic drag.

Is there a good way to test the motor while it’s off?

I’m okay with throwing a coupler at it before calling it toast, but while it’s an apart if there’s a way to test the motor I’d love to.

Sold my beloved TJ in 2020 to accommodate an expanding family. 2023 we bought a JKU as an attempt to scratch the itch. We never could get the same satisfaction out of it.

Currently itching again. Would love an LJ but my budget dictates another TJ or most recently been eye balling, a YJ. Absolutely love the dash lines and have always have had a thing for the pre 92 roll bar design.

That said, I’ve never driven one. Unit will mainly be a weekend National Forest gravel road traveler with some occasional commutes to work. I’m a sucker for half doors and a hard top and obviously the color silver, but it really makes no difference to me.

Anyone owned all of the above or any combo of 2 that can provide some feedback?

Pics of our past units for post traction.

Let me start by saying I’m a cheap human being. I’ve dabbled into crawlers over the years but really have no interest in going back down that rabbit hole unless my kids show interest.

Mainly looking for different ideas of things to take on beach trips or camping trips.

Last year I took the 24’s and they were cool but did get kinda boring. This year I bought a low tier excavator that kept everyone entertained. Granted it did lack a lot in some areas, but it was cheap.

What type of unit would you take to the beach or camping? Maybe a rock racer? Desert racer?

That south east humidity is creeping in. In junction with a dump truck amount of water I try to drink one or two of these or some form of premium hydration drink (LMNT, Pedialyte, etc) throughout the workday.

Wondering if there’s anything out there that gives an energy boost as well. More so than the 20-40mg found in the cheap water packs.

So let me start with like many, I had a run with Civic’s back in the day. I know my b18c’s and 16a’s, etc. but I don’t know much about the K platform.

I got into this car cheap, like pay some sales tax on it cheap. I’m looking to button some stuff up on it but I want to keep parts cheap. Mainly sourcing from the local pick a part.

When I bought it, it had a “new to me” reman put in it. To my understanding the oem is supposed to be a k24a2? This one is stamped k24a. Don’t guess it makes a huge difference to me, but I’d like to see what used parts I can source off of a handful of 2003-2016 accords and one 2010 TSX we have locally.

I’m primarily looking for an ac compressor, the ‘beauty’/intake cover plastic, and whatever other suggestions people have to better the platform. This is a daily beater but I always appreciated Honda’s interchangeability for a little more umph.

Let me start with, the post may be a little long winded but I want to try and be as accurate/transparent with my information. If you stick around, appreciate it, if not see the TL:DR

TL:DR had my truck flashed with an ozempic tune semi locally, no longer have gear indicator, back up cam, or in dash trans temp. Truck feels like it’s stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. Truck is intact until the weekend. Attached codes in pics or at the bottom.

Truck background. 2010 shy of 200k. 1-ish owner (bought from my dad who bought it new). All stock. Truck was a highway (unloaded) traveler for his work until I got it for daily commutes up until 3ish months ago when I bought a fuel saver.

Last year I got the good ol’ dpf full see dealer. Eventually self regen’d. About 2-3 weeks ago had 2 CEL’s pop up (p0030 and p2453) along with the 80-90% full message then eventually 100% ‘reduced power’ after a 30 minute commute trying to make it self regen. Power was never reduced. Failed a forced regen. Finally decided it was time to take a trip to Jenny Craig and remove the nonsense.

No other issues other than a noisy ac clutch.

Truck is/was to maintain stock minus the necessary exhaust/ecu work. No intentions for more horsepower. No heavy hauling. No hiss. No rumble. Just the basics.

For the physical parts, I’m a former welder by trade and I’m confident in my abilities so I intend to fab the exhaust myself, then Cali delete the egr unless absolutely necessary to remove.

Began looking at the maple leaf brethren options, but was ultimately recommended a shop semi locally. Read around, felt pretty confident in their abilities (still do, I don’t want to throw any shade their way). Decided to go this route because I really didn’t want to mess with a device and have no intentions of future upgrades.

Took them the truck still intact. On the way to them I finally got a self regen that took quite a bit of time to complete. They flashed in the tune. I believe they use EZ but I’m not 100%. They highly recommended going straight home with it, which was the plan from the get go.

When I was leaving the shop it felt a little weird but I wasn’t sure as I’ve never had a tuned diesel. Seemed like it wanted to rev to about 1800-ish rpm before moving. Once I got it out to the main road, I noticed it didn’t want to shift. 2000rpm 50mph 3.73 gear.

Immediately reached out to them. He recommended getting everything off that needed to be removed and we could go from there. Fair. Also stated he didn’t drive it to ensure the dpf didn’t get fully plugged. Seemed fair. Also contacted a tech friend that I’ve built several hot rods with and who has experience with duramax trucks in the past. He also agreed and suggested that it’s possible the 68’s communicate with delta sensors and could require a relearn, but admits he wasn’t overly familiar.

Trip home was all back roads slow driving around 15-20 miles. In the anticipation of getting it home I didn’t notice the following problems until I got it parked. First one, no gear indicator in the dash. Even depressing the up and down buttons, nothing lights up. Secondly, when pressing tow/haul no indication in the gauges of it being functional. Third, no back up camera when being put in reverse. Fourth, no trans temp selection in the in dash vehicle info. Lastly, this was on the commute and I’m not sure if it’s related or not, but the exhaust brake isn’t audibly noticeable, or possibly not even functioning.

Pulled out the autel and good ol chatgpt to run some basics before I do get to the exhaust this weekend.

Started with the battery disconnect. No change. In the drivetrain control module I had, U0001 u0100 u0121 u0415. In air bag/occupant restrait I had U0141-00 u1414-00 u142a-00. In parktronics I had
U0141-00 u0155-00 and u0431-00. I cleared them. Went for a 2-5 minute drive around the block, shut it off and did a rescan. No codes. But still the weird trans action, no gear indicator, nor back up camera, as well as no trans temp.

I didn’t specifically request any TCM tuning, so I’m not sure if they did or did not, however it’s worth mentioning inside my Autel it says signal not available for current gear and also says the trans temp is at 401 degrees even after sitting for about 3 hours (also said the same temp when first scanned). Find this hard to believe as I would imagine the trans would practically be on meltdown at this temperature as well as not having any funky funny smells. Fluid level is adequate and though it’s not spotless, it’s not overly dirty or contaminated. Battery voltage is proper and they’re roughly a year old.

Should I/do I need to do a trans re-learn procedure? Is it possible the tune wasn’t done properly? Again they’ve been super helpful so far so I’m not blaming them.

Plan to finish the work this weekend and see what happens and reach back out Monday, but wanted to see what some people thought.

Love it when I’m on my way to Jenny Craig the truck after almost a week’s worth of no self regen and a failed forced regen, this pops up.

I’m Wednesday morning armchair quarterbacking from work here, as I just noticed it this morning, and I’m not at home able to lift it. Basically getting input/ideas on where to start.

After backing it out of the garage, turning around and heading down my gravel driveway I could hear some grinding/scraping from the rear. Sounds mainly on the driver side, but I’m also the driver so it could be either. It almost sounds as if the long tubes were dragging gravel. Kinda a non rhythmic sound. Consistent, but no pattern like it was indicated with each wheel rotation.

When I got to the end of the driveway, I let it roll back 10-20 feet. No sound. Pulled back forward, sound. Got it out on the asphalt, sound. Pulled back into the driveway, backed it up the length of the driveway, no sound.

I’m leaning toward a heat shield either exhaust/brake, or possibly a loose caliper bolt. But I’m all ears for input.

Car has Texas Drivetrain goodies in the t56 with 8k trouble free miles, stock 10 bolt that’s babied, if it matters. I’m a courthouse cruise in guy, not a dead stop gear rowing.

I’ll link a Reddit video that mimics the symptoms.

I’ve been a long time Red Bull coconut connoisseur sprinkling in a random Monster, Full Throttle, and now the Bum in there.

Recently I’ve been branching out trying Ghost, C4, and now this Ryse. These 3 brands hit me hard. Almost a spacey type feeling. Not the Beta-Alanine tingle found in pre workout or old school Redlines, but like a hyper focused super low dose adderall spaced out feeling. I wouldn’t assume 20-40mg extra of caffeine would do this lol.

Maybe I’m just weak 🤣

For starters, I’m not a highly educated individual, I don’t do this for a living, i simply have adhd and like spending money on random tinkering projects for our vehicles. I’m not claiming to know what I talk about nor have I coated a windshield before. I have used UK3.0 with success though.

Looking to see if I did things right, maybe pointers on my next go around, or maybe I’m just used to the old fashion Rain-X? I get that this isn’t a high dollar product but it was $10 bucks (half off at Advance when I bought my headlight kit).

Anyways, I cleaned the windshield, then wiped it down with a diluted ipa mixture, then applied. It flashed rather quickly (less than a minute). Dampened the applicator, cross hatched it. Leveled then buffed. All of this was in a shop on a cool surface.

Finally got some rain after 3 days. Water beads away exceptionally fast, however it seems to leave a bunch of ‘lingering mist marks’ that get produced when the water makes contact with the windshield,
and doesn’t exactly seem to sheet it away like paint.

Maybe this is normal? Maybe I didn’t use enough? Maybe it’s just junk?

2010 all stock, 195k miles, purchased from my father (og owner), oil is religiously changed every 7500ish miles. I’ve personally done 3 since purchasing.

Anyways, the oil change due popped up this morning. Trip A is accurate from last oil change. No excessive idling, maybe 2 lighter (enclosed with dirt bikes) haul trips since last oil change.