u/mwmcc

I just replaced an old 120 AIO with a 240 AIO to keep an older machine running well. Case limitations prevented me from top-mounting the AIO radiator/fans, so they are in the front with the tubes on the bottom. After some online research, I have the fans/airflow configured as follows:

- 2 x case fans mounted on the top in a push/exhaust configuration. Because warm air rises, I figured this was best.

- I have the radiator mounted to the case, with the two fans on the case side. AIO fans originally came in a push/exhaust configuration. I removed and reversed them so that they are pulling fresh air (intake) across the radiator, through them, and into the case.

Is this correct or should I have left the case fans pulling air from the top, and then the AIO fans pushing that air (warmer from inside the case) across the radiator and out.

I think the way I have it is correct...just want to confirm

I've had my 9510 since new (2021). I don't use it for games...just basic productivity in the living room (i.e. when away from my desktop). One big issue I've always had with it was CPU temps. It is a i9-11900H w/ 32GB RAM. After I bought it I learned that high i9 temps were common. Mine would hit 90C+ regularly...albeit for short periods of time. When the warranty ran out, I followed recommendations and re-applied thermal paste to the CPU and GPU (Arctic MX-6) and replaced the stock thermal pads on the VRM areas...with the correct thickness.

This helped, but I also had to use Power Settings Explorer to manually set the battery and plugged in max frequency to 500MHz less than max. Temps are still higher than I would like, but it could just be the chip vs. thin physical laptop. Fortunately, it's been a while since it hit 100C. The laptop idles at mid 40C to low 50C. I think, with the reduced frequency I recall keeping temps in the 85C range when running a basic stress test. Under basic/light use it seems to go up i the 60s, and occasionally in the 70s (e.g. right after a reboot).

It's been a few years since I took the plunge to repaste. Are there better products out now where I could noticeably lower it more...or make it more efficient? The process is a little bit tedious, so I don't want to do it again unless I have to (i.e. MX-6 lasts several years) or I can see much better results? Any other i9 owners (9500, 9510, 9520, etc.) that have cracked the temperature code, or do I just accept what I have as normal/expected?

I recently installed an Aqua Elite 240 V6 in an older system. The previous competitor 120 system pump was silent, even when continuously running at 100%. This new pump emits a high-pitched whine. It isn't loud but it was noticeable. I have significantly improved it by setting the continuous speed at 70% except if processor hit 85C+...then it would go to 100%. However, when my room is silent, I can still hear it. I don't want to go to the trouble of replacing it, if it is normal. Troubleshooting and setup:

- Because of case clearance, the radiator and fans are mounted on the front, with pipes on the bottom (if there are/were air bubbles they would go to the top).
- I tried orienting the pump with tubes/pipe on the bottom (in case there was going to be a RAM issue), but now have it to the default right side (i.e. the Thermalright logo is properly oriented). No change.

The Aqua Elite is definitely performing/cooling well. I don't hear any grinding or gurgling or anything to indicate air or other similar flow issue. I just want t confirm that the sound I'm hearing is normal for a modern pump like this or whether it should be silent.

I just updated the firmware of my Deco 63 system to 1.3.3. Now, I can no longer access the web management page (tplinkdeco.net or 192.168.68.1). Is this disabled in the new firmware or is there something else I can/need to do to restore the feature/option? Thanks.

With PC component prices the way they are (especially storage and RAM), i'm trying to squeeze out some more time out of my 8-year old i7-7700K/Z270 machine. Honestly, it is still responsive for daily use. I've made several upgrades over the years (SATA>NVME, 32GB RAM, Wif6E PCIE Card, 1050Ti> 6600XT, etc.).

My question(s) are about AIO fan curves. Processor is running stock and I have CPU voltage set at Auto. It flucutates between 0.7V and 1.23V.

Until yesterday, all I had cooling it was a Corsair H60 120mm AIO. It was silent and kept things relatively cool with a standard curve...pump was always at 100%. I only had the single fan on the radiator and a single fan on the front pulling air. Not much, I know. Idle temp was 38 - 42C (depending on ambient temperature) and hit 80C under full load. Not the best but still within spec.

To give me a little more shopping/research time, and because I'll probably give this desktop to my son to play Minecraft on, I bought a budget (on sale) Thermaltake Aqua Elite V6 240mm AIO (my case didn't support 360mm)

When I swapped out the AIOs last night, here are my observations and issues:

- I had to mount the radiator/fans on the front (hoses on the bottom) due to top clearance issues. I mounted two 120mm case fans on the top to draw in air.

- Not the best job spreading paste but seems to be good enough. Core temps are all within a few degrees (average) of each other. I don't think it is worth re-doing yet. I used Arctic MX-6 instead of the stuff that came in the AIO box.

- With pump running at 100% my idle temp was 30 - 31C and, running a stress test with HWMonitor (I know not to the standards of overclockers) it hit about 65C max. However, when my room is quiet, I could hear the low hum/whine of the pump and, while not loud, was annoying.

- I'm not running the pump at 70% until 75C and then have it going to 100%. Much quieter. Idle temp is now 34 - 35C but stress test still peaked in the mid 60C. I think I'm good?

Is there any issue with running the pump (DC mode and 70%), only ramping up to 100% at 75C? Pump longevity? I wasn't clear if pump should just run constant, or whether it should run at 100% all the time? If the latter is required, anything I can do to mask the hum?

Firefox Beta updated today and I ended up with the text highlight color in URL bar being "white." I tried a refresh and even doing a clean install and it was still broken. I was only able to get it usable again by adding a line of css to userchrome with background and text color.

I currently have an older machine with a RX6600XT and Adrenaline software installed in "minimal" mode. My main reason is to ensure that Freesync is enabled (my monitor supports it). If I decided to do the "driver only" option, would Freesync still be enabled and used or do I need Minimal of Full installed to utilize it? If I can just use driver-only, how would I check/test that it is active? Thanks.

I retired from active duty less than a year ago. I recalled being told that there was a benefit that allowed me to get a license/certification reimbursed (including possible prep course) that didn't draw from my 9/11 GI Bill. However, when I recently looked, I couldn't confirm whether that was true.

Is the license and certification reimbursement benefit just an application of 9/11 GI Bill, or is it a separate benefit? If the latter, can you point me to accurate information? Thanks.

Novice here...but gradually learning. I'm trying to avoid more unnecessary work (digging/yard damage).

A single sprinkler head failed and stem would not retract all the way anymore (issue with spring I believe). Tricks like spraying lubricant didn't work. I ultimately decided to replace it. I also needed to replace it because it was too far below grade now.

The good part was that while the replacement (brand new basic Rainbird 1800) worked, I noticed quite a bit of leaking from around the stem as pressure reduces (i.e. when I turn it off water trickles out for a little while.) It eventually would stop but definitely wastes a noticeable amount of water. I dug it out again and replaced with a spare 1800 "Pro Series" I had. No difference. I just ordered a pair of the "pressure regulator" versions to see if post-use leakage stops.

My question is what is considered normal behavior. These are brand new sprinkler bodies. Most of my sprayer heads are from several years ago. I do have one other newer head that I duplicated the issue with. When on, and stem extended, If I push the stem to the side at all, water sprays out of the small gap (at the base). It goes back to normal when pressure is no longer applied. It almost appears to be a normal feature on newer bodies...i.e. to prevent pressure buildup? However, they are advertised as having a good "seal" to reduce leaking.

If this is normal, do the slightly more expensive bodies with the advertised pressure regulator to reduce water loss fix this?

P.S. Part of the reason I want to confirm is that this replacement was more painful than anticipated. Instead of the riser being just beneath the bottom of the 4" sprinkler body, I found that the original was a 6" version and I had to dig a lot deeper to find the riser. I had to add several inches of plastic riser extenders to allow me to install the 4" version and get it closer to grade.

We moved into our house about three years ago. In that time I've had to replace the freezer LED about 6 - 8 times. Most of the time replacements last 1 - 3 months. One lasted about a year or so.

I've read that this is a common design flaw in several models. The freezer LED is in series with several LEDs in the fridge. When it fails, they all go out too...just not failed. Replacing the freezer bulb restores the fridge lights. Unfortunately, the freezer light goes out all of the time and the only cause I've read is something to do with voltage issues. I've had my mainboard replaced and that didn't fix the constant failures. I've even tried genuine Whirlpool ($$$$) bulbs vs. generic ones. No difference.

Is there a permanent fix to this problem...i.e. have an electrician or appliance repair add something to the wiring to prevent quick LED failure? Is there a recommended replacement bulb brand/model with robust circuitry that can take the voltage issue?

My fridge model is WRF767SDHZ01 and the bulb model is W10695459 (apparently common across Whirlpool, Kitchen aide, and Maytag).

After upgrading to Android 17 my Smart Launcher gestures stopped working. I was prompted to change an Android Accessibility setting. However that setting was locked. I found that it is affected by Android Advanced Protection. If I disable it I can restore Smart Launcher gestures. Is this normal? Can Advanced Protection and gestures be enabled at same time? Thanks.

I'm a 49-year old male. Skin cancer started for me about six years ago. Since then, I have been diagnosed with (2) squamous cell carcinomas and (3) basal cell carcinomas. All of them have been at or in my hairline...both left and right. They have all left noticeable scars...issue isn't the scar itself...but the hair loss all around them...i.e. large bald spots. Each procedure has included surgeons and nurses attempting to reassure me that hair will grow around the "line scars...long ones" and they won't be noticeable. That hasn't been the case even once. What starts as a few mm of BCC or SCC results in order of magnitude larger bald spots.

The day before yesterday, I had to have a more thorough Mohs procedure done on one of the BCCs mentioned above. It is still very early in the recovery process, obviously, and the affected area (right side of head) looks as expected...large shaven area and a very large incision mark with sutures and dried blood. As directed, I just removed the pressure bandage, cleaned it gently with shampoo, and had my wife apply a thin coat of Aquafor (after hair/scalp was dried) to the incision. No signs of excessive swelling, infection, etc. She said there was a little dried blood but not much on the pressure dressing...i.e. it looks like the sutures are nice and tight and it didn't bleed much post-surgery (although they did use the cauterize machine quite a bit).

Treatment printout is a pretty standard printout..mild washing (no scrubbing), keep dry, use Aquafor 1X to 2X a day, take Tylenol for pain (yes, I needed it), no strenuous exercise, etc. Sutures will be in for 15 days.

One thing the surgeon tried this time, at the recommendation of my Derm PA, was not to use deep sutures. I had inflammation from them on two previous surgeries...including my body still rejecting them months after procedure. It is thought that might be a culprit for permanent hair loss (scarring). We'll see this time (fingers crossed).

Question...for scalp healing and repair. Are there any other self-care activities or supplements (Vitamin C, A, D, Zinc, etc.) I can do or take now that can give my scalp/hair follicles/incision the best chance to recover and not result in another large bald spot...now and the in the future?

I've already lost a chunk of my left temple, a quarter-sized bald spot on my upper left scalp, a chunk missing from my back hairline, and my right sideburn is in two pieces (e.g. horizontal line scar that goes right through it). Unfortunately, I know this isn't my last procedure either:(

It's June 12th and my Pixel 9 Pro is still not detecting the June 2026 update. Most of the time I picks up the monthly updates on the day of release...sometimes up to three days. Anything I can do to get it to detect it faster? Thanks.

I just want to confirm that this system only supports one connected USB drive at a time. I have (4) BE63s in my mesh system. I have a USB drive connected to the primary unit. Based on the app, it looks like it only supports a single drive. I kind of expected this but just want to confirm. I can't hook up a second drive to one of the other units, correct? System only supports one connected device at a time?

Admittedly, there is a lot of debate on this...but it seems focused on the Q990F. Understandable, since they likely sell many more of these than the Q900F. I went with Q900F because I found a great deal last year but, more importantly, my living room wasn't the most conducive (very open, no outlets nearby, etc.).

Lots of back and forth between Standard vs. Adaptive, and how it/they affect the number channels. Since the Q900F is sans rear speakers, how do each of these modes affect channels and processing? Recommendation for Standard vs. Adaptive? I don't listen to music on my soundbar...only movies and TV. Thanks.

Until prices come down to allow me to set up a true NAS, I have an external drive connected to a TPLink Deco system. As expected, it is easily accessible to machines connected to Wi-fi. However, I also have a desktop connected directly to fiber gateway by wired connection...much faster. I know another option would be to connect through the router (wired) but wall jacks are used. Wired connection through another mesh device basically eliminates the performance gain I'm getting through direct connection.

I can access the networked drive via FTP WAN, or as a mapped drive if I temporarily connect to Wi-fi. In fact, I have found that file transfer speed through FTP WAN is significantly faster than through FTP LAN or mapped network drive/network device (SMB). If I can connect via WAN (FTP), can I connect remotely as a mapped network drive too? If so, what do I enter? If not...thanks for confirming:) Probably a very basic question I know?

Good Morning. I recently swapped out two Asus RT-AXE7800s in mesh due to constant stability headaches and poor USB port (even though advertised as USB 3.0) file transfer speed. I replaced with a Tp-Link BE63 three-pack. In most ways it is better, in a few ways it isn't.

I have a few questions on the USB-attached storage. Unlike Asus, the Tp-Link is very basic...though it works. I want to see if I need to configure anything differently.

- Asus configures drives under SMB shares, with username and password. You locate it under "Network" in Windows 11. On the BE63, this did not occur. It would not populate. However, when I selected "map network drive" and typed in the server name, I was able to get it to connect and save. I just want to make sure this is the normal/correct way.

- Is there a way to use the drive's volume name as the name? For some reason, the BE63 simply calls it "g" instead of the volume name. "g" followed by the server name. Is there a way to change the name from "g" to something else? Or is that just how it is. Options in the app are extremely basic.

- I noticed different performance between FTP WAN, FTP LAN, and mapped drive file transfers. Admittedly, I thought FTP WAN would be slower than the other two local methods. It is actually considerable faster. I can transfer to the drive at 80 - 100 MB/s over FTP WAN. I think when I tested, I was only getting like 60 - 70 MB/s over local FTP or mapped drive (SMB?). Enabling the USB interference reduction option cuts that by like 30 - 50% (I ended up disabling it). Still...much better than the 15 MB/s I would get on the Asus over any protocol. Why is FTP WAN (Internet) so much faster? I suspect it could be because FTP WAN is pseudo wired connection and both the FTP LAN and mapped drive are via Wi-fi?

- On the Asus you could configure multiple "accounts" with usernames and passwords, and assign access rights (read, write, etc.). You could also enable TLS encryption. The BE63 does not support any of this. Single account, no TLS (only unencrypted transfer). I just want to make sure this is correct. Are all Tp-Link systems with USB ports this basic, or do higher end systems enable more options?

New owner testing out a Deco BE63 setup...coming from two Asus routers in mesh. A couple of questions -

- In the app I see a means to break out the 6Hz band as a separate SSID. There is no way to break up the 2.4GHz and 5 GHz bands, correct?

- For FTP server, is there a means to enable TLS encryption when using the web option?

- For SMB, I can add my attached USB drive via a mapped network drive. It doesn't show up under "Network" in Windows 11 though, am I missing something...or is this normal? Also, it sticks a "g" in front of the network share name I assigned. Is there a way to remove this...not a big deal...in the Asus routers, this g was replaced with the actual drive volume name.

- I enabled MLO, not for my devices, but because I read that would improve connection between the nodes as well...i.e. connection via 5 and 6GHz. Anything else I should change to maximize bandwidth between them?

- I see an option for USB interference (w/ 2.4GHz). I haven't played around with it yet...currently I have it turned off. Is there noticeable performance between on/off and file transfer speeds? Admittedly, one of many reasons I switched from the Asus was that their USB port was terrible. I could only transfer at 15 MB/s across the network...SMB and FTP. I did one test with the Deco and got 100 MB/s. What is the normal transfer speed drop I should expect if it is recommended to enable the option.

Thanks, and I'm definitely open to any other recommendations to maximize performance out of this system.

When I was younger I built myself a new machine every couple of years. Technology moved quickly, and prices were good. I also had a Fry's electronics (some of you will remember) less than five minutes from me:) Then marriage and kids. My current build is circa 2017 with a i7-7700K. I've updated it over the years (NVME, 32GB DDR4, Radeon 6600XT, etc.). I don't game so it actually still performs quite well for basic productivity tasks.

It's time to build again:) I'm monitoring prices and bundles (e.g. Newegg)...knowing that the market isn't value-friendly right now. However, I at least want to have a sense for what I want so I can pull the trigger at, hopefully, a good time.

One question I have is motherboard Wi-fi. Wi-fi 7 is common, but 8 is right around the corner. Are desktop motherboards like laptops, where the Wi-fi adapter is usually soldered on, or are there some that are replaceable/upgradeable via M.2 socket? One upgrade that has kept my current machine running well was PCIE sockets. The Z270 motherboard didn't have on board Wi-fi. I used a PCIE x1 slot for AC and now AX (6E) card. Are there any current motherboards that are easily Wi-fi chip replaceable? Or do people use an expansion slot and disable the onboard Wi-fi when it's outdated...and they don't want to build new?

Our air handler is 1) loud and 2) located in a hallway closet (with louvered door) that seems to amplify the noise even more.

I've tried a MERV 8 filter (lowest I could find in size) to reduce restriction...didn't work.

Noise doesn't seem to be too bad from vents...just the HVAC closet.

There are mesh vent covers on Amazon that allegedly reduce noise. Does anyone know if they make them for louvered doors?

I know I can't cover the louvers (airflow into closet) with a soundproof blanket. Other options?

Edit - I did just order some semi-large acoustic panels to put in the closet. If they make any difference, I may buy more for the floor.