Hey, guys. I will spare a long lamentation and how surprise and aad I am that the inyerior of the car is what it is, but let me ask a question. Is it possible to have two circular dials: speedometer and tychometer like it was/is on other car? Right now it looks empty, ungly and I am sure there is a way to occupy this bog screen with something useful and aesthetically pleasing?
Hey, guys. I am trying to find a place in the menu where I can see firmware version that I have. Was only able to find this one, but that is not it.
Where can I find it? Thanks!
Hi guys, I have around 510 cars now and want to get all. A lot of them are VGT cars, so I can check what I am missing and estimate how much money I still need to get them.
I have all cars from UCD.
But I do not have a way of knowing which cars from Legendary I am missing and how many credits I need to get them.
Is there a way?
Video: https://youtu.be/LjsLK2ZLao0?feature=shared
Today I got a good example of that. I was P2, another driver in P3 took me out. Honestly it looked like a genuine racing incident, not deliberate or aggressive — I wouldn’t even have been upset if he’d just carried on. My car and engine were wrecked, so I was crawling around the track after that.
But he waited for me anyway. Basically took his own penalty for it. It wasn’t even necessary, and I’m not angry either way — this stuff happens — but it’s genuinely decent behavior and deserves a mention.
Any idea why it almost double the original price in the official stores? I got it fot 3400 PLN, now it is 6000 PLN which is 1800$.
I know Luke well and I know some of the guys in the video from watching some streams and official events. They are true legends.
I thought about sharing this video because:
https://youtu.be/ofJIIEH7x7c?is=7ueYufW8LFtKSIUj
I love Luke’s channel. I am pretty sure if you like serious, educational content from someone who is very grounded and very experienced, you will appreciate it too.
Enjoy:-)
I watch a lot of races in B and A splits, and I compare it to how top split drivers handle contact. When someone makes a mistake up there and compromises another driver’s race, they wait.
In lower splits? Best case you get a “sorry” after the race. But what does that actually mean? Saying sorry is acknowledging it was your mistake. If you really believe that, then finishing the sentence with “…and I kept driving away” makes the apology hollow. It costs you nothing to type “sorry” in chat. It costs something to actually wait.
I make mistakes too. When I touch someone and gain an advantage from it, I let them back by — because that position isn’t mine, I took it.
Everyone complains about dirty lobbies. Funny how it’s always someone else’s fault, never ours.
Got the Bravia 8 II 65”, paired with the Sony HT-A9000 soundbar and Apple TV 4K. Full Sony ecosystem, so I expected this to just work.
Right after a restart, audio and video are perfectly in sync for the first few minutes
Then, out of nowhere, the audio starts drifting — lips move, voice comes a beat later
Doesn’t matter what’s playing: Blu-ray from a Sony player, a movie on Apple TV, even YouTube — same issue every time
Only fix so far is restarting the TV, which just resets the clock until it happens again
Getting to the point where it’s basically unusable for movie nights
Anyone else running into this on the Bravia 8 II? Curious if:
You’ve found an actual fix (not just a workaround)
It’s tied to a specific firmware version
Sony’s said anything official about it
Appreciate any input, this is driving me nuts.
Hey guys, i cannot describe this thing, but you can see it yourself. Every now and then I have these banding on the screen, more into green vertical
Stripes. They can disappear after sometime. But this is normal. Any ideas what could this be? Also, when I switch off TV after playing PS5, I have this green splash on a screen.
Getting audio/video sync drift on my Bravia 8 II (65”) paired with the HT-A9000 soundbar via eARC, source is Apple TV 4K. Started sometime after I got the TV, still on firmware build 602080.
Aware of the known bug from the June update (114.602.080.1) that What Hi-Fi covered — audio dropouts/lip-sync issues from that build, and the newer 602170 fix apparently didn’t touch the audio issue.
Tried PCM instead of bitstream, A/V sync adjustment, killing Motion Flow, Apple TV Match Content off — helps a bit but doesn’t fully fix it.
Anyone found an actual fix, or a newer firmware that resolves it? Not looking to re-cable my setup (Apple TV → soundbar direct instead of TV) if I can avoid it. Curious what’s worked for others.
Got an oura ring since the release. It was 6 days right away. Now 4? Normal pattern?
Getting the “something went wrong with the system software” error (CE-108262-9) repeatedly — 4 times in about 24 hours, two of them just 9 min apart. Every time it boots into “repairing console storage.”
I’ve got a Samsung 990 Pro (2TB, with heatsink) as expansion storage, had it installed for about a year with zero issues until now. Removed it two days ago and no crashes since, but too early to say if that’s the actual fix or just coincidence.
Not sure what changed — possibly the recent system update (I’ve seen a couple other threads mention SSD/storage issues around the same time), possibly the drive is just failing after a year of use. Trying to figure out which before I contact Sony or RMA the drive.
Anyone dealt with this or know how to tell the difference?
The history of automotive was predominantly Europe and US. The US lost it decades ago — just a fraction of brands still make okay cars with any legacy or character left.
Europe had legacy brands too. But look at BMW, Audi, Mercedes now — they’re all copying Chinese design language, and half the “European” brands aren’t even European-owned anymore. End result: cars that are over-assisted, all screen and no buttons, no character, no thrill to drive. Exceptions: Porsche, maybe the only one, plus ultra-luxury like Lambo, Koenigsegg.
The only ones still working the way cars used to work are Japanese — Nissan GT-R, Toyota Celica, the new Toyota GT GR. That’s it. Everything else is soulless.
What gets me: people don’t blink at cars that are worse quality and cost more — BMW, Merc, Audi. So who’s actually buying? Companies? Leasing? Because I genuinely can’t figure out why anyone pays 120k for a fully loaded Audi A6 with no buttons and a laggy infotainment system.
I understand there’s a range of experiences here, and those who haven’t run into issues have no reason to assume the worst. But for those of us who have, this is worth documenting plainly.
I’ve bought a lot of high-end equipment over the years, across a lot of categories. This is the first time a warranty replacement has arrived non-functional.
Timeline:
**•** Dec 2025 — purchased DD Extreme + Gran Turismo Wheel
**•** Apr 2026 — base failed, initiated warranty replacement
**•** Received replacement DD+ base
**•** First connection attempt — dead on arrival
**•** Currently back in the replacement process
Why I’m raising this:
**•** This isn’t about one bad unit — it’s about the cumulative time cost: shipping, diagnostics, support tickets, waiting
**•** For anyone relying on this equipment for structured practice or competition prep, an unusable base isn’t a minor inconvenience — it’s lost training time that doesn’t come back
**•** Quality control at the warranty-replacement stage deserves the same scrutiny as first-sale units, arguably more, since the customer has already been through one failure
I’m not looking to pile on — just flagging a gap that a company at this level shouldn’t have. Curious whether others have seen replacement units arrive faulty, or if this was a one-off.
To be fair to Fanatec support: I imagine dealing with cases like this, at this volume, is genuinely frustrating on their end too, and in my experience they’ve tried to do right by me throughout. Credit where it’s due — the support team has been responsive and reasonable to work with.
But I’d think people working for a company like this would rather be known for product quality and the praise that comes with it, not for constantly managing returns and explaining away failures. Support isn’t the problem here. Production and quality control clearly are.
Dear community and Fanatec support,
I’m having a problem with a brand new ClubSport DD+ wheelbase that seems to be dead on arrival. Below I’ll explain what’s happened and where the issue lies. I’ve gone through the full cycle — installing, reinstalling, updating firmware, everything that can be done on my end. What worries me most is that the Quick Release is reading all zeros, which makes me think this isn’t fixable via firmware. I’d really like to confirm this: has anyone here run into the same issue, or is there a Fanatec tech who understands this specific fault? Is this simply a faulty unit that needs to be sent back, or is there a firmware fix for it?
Details:
The wheelbase firmware was successfully updated via EUF (manual update).
The base itself works correctly: the motor calibrates on startup, the wheel rotates, and the button backlight turns on.
However, the QR module built into the base does not communicate with it and always shows firmware version 0.0.0.0.
The wheel receives power, but no inputs are detected and the QR firmware cannot be updated.
When trying to update the QR firmware, I get:
“Request Update response failed! Error: undefined error encountered.”
FanatecApp also shows Wireless Quick Release Firmware: 0.0.0.0, yet still reports “Firmware is up to date!” — even though the device isn’t detected. Recovery Mode appears but doesn’t resolve the issue.
Already tried:
Manual base firmware update (successful)
Reinstalling Fanatec drivers
Power cycling the base
Removing and reattaching the wheel
QR reset procedure
Checking physical contacts
The problem persists. It looks like the QR module inside the base isn’t responding at all, even though the motor and power channels work normally. Screenshots of the errors and firmware updater logs are attached.
Could you please advise on next steps? It seems the QR module may require repair or replacement.
Thank you.
I want to preface this by saying I’m not anti-Audi and I didn’t expect perfection. I’m posting this because the gap between price, marketing, and actual day-to-day usability has been significant enough that I think it’s worth documenting for anyone cross-shopping.
Background: Moved from a BMW 530i to a fully-specced A6 C9 (3.0 TDI, every major option box ticked). Expected a lateral move at worst. Instead it’s been a consistent downgrade in build execution and usability, even though the car itself is more expensive.
Timeline of issues so far:
Day 1: Lighting system fault notification, immediately after delivery.
4 weeks to get a service appointment due to dealer backlog.
Dealer couldn’t diagnose it on-site — had to escalate to the factory and asked me to leave the car for a full week for a fault that started on day one.
Wireless charging doesn’t work reliably.
Steering wheel buttons are intermittent — work, then don’t, with no clear pattern.
Driver seat memory doesn’t return to the saved position consistently.
Trunk: opens on button press, doesn’t reliably close on the same button.
Design/UX issues (not defects, just poor execution):
EU GSR2 mandates several driver assists to be on by default at every startup (lane assist, etc.) — I understand this is regulatory, not Audi-specific, but the process to disable them each drive is unnecessarily tedious.
Menu navigation is almost entirely screen-dependent — very few physical buttons — and the logic isn’t intuitive. Simple functions take multiple taps through nested menus.
The infotainment screens are large, but the actual information density is low — a lot of the screen real estate is empty space, which makes the cabin feel less premium than the size of the displays would suggest, not more.
Overall take: for the price premium over my BMW, I expected at minimum equivalent reliability and a more intuitive interface, given the size of the screens. Instead I’ve had a first-day hardware fault that took nearly a month to even get looked at, several buttons/functions that work inconsistently, and a UX that adds friction to basic tasks. Curious whether this is a first-model-year (C9 platform) teething issue specific to my car, or a broader pattern others are seeing.
Happy to answer questions if others are considering the same trim.
Running SimNet SP Pro loadcell pedals, mainly GT7. Looking to dial in the brake stack instead of guessing with stock elastomers.
What elastomer/spring combos are you running, and what feel are you going for — progressive with a hard wall, linear, or soft initial bite?
Running SimNet SP Pro loadcell pedals, mainly GT7. Looking to dial in the brake stack instead of guessing with stock elastomers.
What elastomer/spring combos are you running, and what feel are you going for — progressive with a hard wall, linear, or soft initial bite?