u/whatstheinitiative

Pic is added because the sub wouldn't allow me to post just text. however the screenshot still depicts what I'm referencing.

Which one of y'all buying or replying to the ads posted of 20-25 plus years Gen 2-3 rams and fords with 200-250K + miles in " good condition". asking 20-25K? Inflation blah blah, but who's buyin that?.... I can already see in the comments - but who knows what it sells for. I'm seeing them listed left and right and clapped out ones for 15K+. Some ads sit forever but who's even entertaining that they they start asking that high.

And don't get me wrong, some vehicles are restored with built motors, redone chassis and suspensions, interiors, paint etc but thats a whole different market than a run down POS. somebody help me with some sanity.

Printer: X2D

slicer: Orca 2.4.2.

filament: PETG

I'm not sure if you guys can tell in this video, but is this too fast? you can't see in the video but I opened the door and stuck the camera in, but the whole machine and door shake violently while its trying to run the pattern. I have printed things and not touched the settings made by the designer when downloading from maker world and I even slowed down the outer wall/ inner wall / sparse infill/ supports etc. left overhang slows down ticked off etc.

Most of the settings I'm comparing for speed in orca vs Bambu are by default the same speeds.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

EDIT: dont' mind the supports all over the place, lost a few supports and decided to let it run once it passed the overhang/ledge layers.

EDIT EDIT: I posted a 2nd video for better depiction below.

Hi folks, looking for some help. teaching myself blender and dragging faces, and extruding shapes all day and night and the edges always seemed to stretch or shorten anyway you drag it around.

How would you shorten up the stalk of this handle? the outer vertices don't seem to be constrained to the upper portions they were anchored to.

What I did to get here: I selected all the faces on the bottom face, the inside stem structure and and all the faces on the outside of handle. then just tried to extrude up the z axis by 11mm and no dice.

At first I tried selecting just the bottom face and that moved just the bottom face leaving everything else there.

What am I doing wrong? (im sure there is a lot).

Thanks in advance.

just out of curiosity, has anyone ever replaced the little rivet that allow the parts to lock and articulate in place? Does anyone know what the rivet or spindle part is actually called? the bottom one of the 3 came out in the backyard and is lost forever but I doubt it is able to be just placed back in (im assuming it was pressed (or retained) into one side of the metal tool. This is likely a lost cause but Im just really curious on a Saturday morning.

For the experts, I've run this calibration a few times now and I guess I'm still a little confused.

Is there still theoretical volumetric speed to be had if the test prints without real flaws or the degradation I see in a lot of examples?

Am I not pushing the speed far enough? I've read a few comprehensive calculation articles and looked up brand specific max flow rates and the few times I've printed these, they came out 99 percent flawless.

Am I missing anything, like some filament setting that is auto slowing down the toolhead/flow etc?

These are printed with and X2D and in both orca slicer and Bambu studio.

The flow rate parameter was default at 5-20. Then I pushed it up to 30, then 40. the fastest I ran it was 20-40mm3/s and in the filament settings, I saw in orca slicer, it auto changed the max speed to 200mm3/s so maybe the are other auto settings preventing me from running this properly or should I just leave good and well alone?

thanks in advance.

Can anyone tell me why a slice would introduce a few layers of more layer time, and more fan speed at random layers? when flow rate, temperature and everything else in the model is uniform? it almost always results in a color striping variation or even stringing at those exact layers in the finished print. This happens in both orca slicer and Bambu Studio

In addition, when I slice and see more even flow, speed, layer time, etc, I have less of these pimples,stringing, layer variation etc. I've done some calibrations and selected the best settings I could for each filament. Anyone with any expertise here?

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Printer: X2D

slicer: orca and bambu

filament: eSun PETG (dried to 11%)

build plate: biqu glacier and bambu textured PEI

Can the experts chime in on why the slicer would randomly change the fan speed (or layer times) for a layer or two suddenly and then carry on as normal?

I have the X2D and have printed the diffusers for the auxiliary fans and the right side rectangular vent cover to keep the air as even as possible while the part is printing. Im still confused as to the filament "edit" settings. I've printed with 0 fan for 500 layers and for this screenshot, I left it pretty much default, like 3 layers or so.

If anyone cares to explain, I'm trying to understand, the labels of each fan and their corresponding setting in the filament settings editing menu, and how they behave. One is auxiliary "part" fan, which I thought I saw it said that on the right of print head where the little vertical fan facing the nozzle is.

I've printed this multiple times with similar results (once in orca and once in Bambu).

thanks in advance.

Printer: Bambu lab X2D

slicer: Orca slicer 2.3.2, 2.4.0, 2.4.1

Is anyone having/had the same difficulty "printing" files from orca slicer to bambulab printer? specifically for me the X2D in LAN MODE. I've tried and tried, with multi versions of Orca and even "sending" option. " Print"returns this overlapped message that I can't make out at the bottom of included pic. I've also tried to send, and the little pop up wind comes up with the little rotating circle arrow that just keeps spinning and hangs there indefinitely. Anyone with a solution? I'm able to just export to usb and print that way but trying to streamline this like it works with the Bambu lab cloud.

(I AM connected and able to see the filaments in AMS and monitor the prints via "device" tab after print starts).

Does creating and logging in to orca cloud work the same as being signed into Bambu lab cloud?

model: X2D

material: PLA

Hotend: Auxiliary (right)

temp: standard (I think it it ran it up to 250C)

TLDR: Brand new to 3Dprinting and got an upper auxiliary nozzle clog and had to take it completely apart. There is no how to on the aux nozzle system. My question is how could heat creep cause this when my settings were pretty much within standard settings. The rest of the write up hopefully helps the next guy.

So the backstory: I'm brand new to 3D printing and this is my first machine. Just starting to get familiar with different filament types how they behave and temps, how the heated chamber heats and cools, hot the hot end works and how this machine has a main extruder and an aux extruder on the back of machine for the auxiliary (right nozzle).

Today, I learned about a phenomenon called "heat creep" which I THINK caused my auxiliary nozzle to clog (or swell up) above the hot end and buffer -where the heat sinks are. it clogged in the "filament sensor tunnel" as you can see in the pictures, it is two plastic halves that form the tunnel and somehow, heat creep caused the filament to melt enough to jam and stick to where it couldn't be pushed through, or pushed back. Bambu lab recommends the the heat hex key to do a cold pull which does not work because you can melt the plastic tunnel and make that filament jam even more lodged (as I did) and have to take it apart. (there's no documentation for taking the auxiliary nozzle filament tunnel apart - see pic 3 for reference).

BAMBULAB - WHY would you make this part plastic if heating an Allen key is your solution to getting filament jammed in this section. or why wouldn't you insulate this area better to keep it from being susceptible to heat creep?

Theories on why I ended up here - Saw people say that the X2D is good for printing support material with PLA when printing main nozzle material with PETG and were telling to print the PETG with higher Bed temps and chamber temps and no fans for better adhesion. I pushed the bed temp up to 70C and was fighting the right and left chamber fans to run them down at 20 percent instead of 40 and above. it was during this time I got a warning on screen (of chamber tmps being too high - I think Bambulab is conservative with their warnings and it was PETG and PLA settings that triggered the warning mind you the chamber temp had only crept up to 45C. I cracked the top glass and saw it was stablizing and coming down to 39. The print finished and I set up to print the same box over in different color with the same PLA support.

This is where things got interesting - the same warnings for temp came on, I vented the same way, barely cracking top glass because I continued to think I needed the heat for success in printing this problematic PETG from eSun. I successfully printed the box fully thinking the extra heat helped successfully print the filament only to discover the support interface PLA didn't print but the print ran full job, with no other warnings other than the hot chamber at 40 ish celsius and it compromised the print quality just a little bit. I was confused.

It wasn't until the next small print I made with the same materials that I discovered the aux nozzle was clogged. after having to learn about clogs, learning that my clog was up higher than the hot end, I basically had to blow up the print head as you see in pic 1 and pic 4.

I read a handful of posts here and elsewhere that other people had this issue and were stuck and I write all this to say, that there is a way to break it all down and unjam it despite having no wiki write-ups, pics, YouTube vids or otherwise and hope this helps the next guy. NOTE: if you embark on this, the wires are extremely thin gauge and delicate, and the filament sensor has very small parts and plastic tabs so I'd be extremely gentle taking it apart and if you are of the fat finger type, you might want precision tools.

Also to ask if anyone has had a jam where the print finished and no support/ auxiliary nozzle material was extruded through the hot end. it happened a couple more prints after for smaller parts as well which I have to make a different post about.

I did get the whole thing back together carefully and it prints but still haven't figured out if I additionally have an extruder problem and why I got the heat creep in the first place.

If anyone has any thoughts or expertise, they are appreciated.

- printer: Bambulab X2D

- filament: Black PLA+ - White PLA matte

- white PLA in the AMS feeding main nozzle and black PLA on external spool feeding aux nozzle.

I'm brand new to printing to don't roast me too hard. lol

I printed a couple of buckles yesterday and wanted to get more familiar with Bambu Studio so I added another object into the project I pulled from maker world. I'm still getting familiar with how to selected colors and group filaments etc. I put the larger buckle on the left thinking I would use the left nozzle to print (loaded with white) and the smaller buckle on the right (loaded with black) to print from right nozzle.

I had the Black on the external spool which feeds the right aux nozzle and the white in the AMS which feeds the left main nozzle. I don't think had anything to do with this. but stupidly, I think I accidentally had the selected colors reversed on pieces.

I don't think any of this had anything to do with what happened but I felt it might be pertinent for you guys to know what happened.

My question mainly is In regards to the supports trees. The whole project seemed to alternate colors between the brim and support layers and of both sides of the project.

Any thoughts on why it would print alternating support layers?

After selecting or syncing filament the white bits show up in Bambu slicer. Are they just artifacts in the software? They don’t print in other colors but in past prints, I have seen ridges in the layers where these “artifacts” show up in the preview.

If you look closely at the zoomed in red Lego, you can see the curvy line.

Model: Bambu X2D
Material: it shows up in multiple materials
Temps: standard

I'm new to printing, and hoping you guys have some insight on this.

Printer: Bambu x2D

Print material: PETG

Printer temp: standard recommended from the Bambu slicer

The other day I tried to print a box straight off maker world and pretty much just hit print with the exception of accepting the recommended bambulab print settings for PETG. I just it okay.

up until then, I had only printed a few things with PLA and PLA matte so I was trying a new role of eSun filament in PETG that had just arrived. As you can see in the pic, the warping was pretty bad, in addition to the bed adhesion for the first layer which I had cleaned with alcohol prior to starting.

Today, I just completed another attempt with a bone colored PETG with from Creality that had just come in, but this time, I selected that it print a 5mm brim, and I had run it through a couple hours of drying the filament, and slowed the fans down inside the chamber about 20-25 percent. I also tried to run the chamber a little warmer, I think it was 70c to 75c to help with less cooling so quickly after extrusion of the layer (I thinking about this correctly).

obviously, it had printed better and is very usable but you can see in the bone white pics that it is still wanting to warp even with the brim.

1. am I on the right track with slowing the fans down and the exhaust fan?

2. did I selected the right brim? (the brim by comparison seems skimpy unlike the brims I've seen on prime towers from previous prints).

3. Aside from altering the design of the piece, what else can I do to ensure better bed adhesion (im using the factory PEI textured one that came with the x2D) and less warping?

Drained the oil on a Hybrid fusion with 140K miles and discovered this shimmer in the pan. I have a few questions because the situation confuses me.

Is this detrimental or have you guys seen this much glitter in a good running engine. Car runs fine, gets, 41-42 mpg, doesn't have any weird sounds and no check engine lights or anything weird.

So immediately, I was concerned. I unfortunately didn't pay attention to when the oil first started to drain and saw this in the pan after I pulled it out from under the car.

Also pulled the oil filter, saved the oil remaining from the filter and cut the filter element open which I'll have to upload in a second post because reddit limits posting to a single video. However, there was nothing in the filter oil element, the bottom of metal oil filter after settling, or any trace of silver or glitter after 4k miles.

Anyone with any experience like this or thoughts?

Carfax shows the oil was changed at dealerships every 10K miles. ( a bit lengthy IMO but at least regular intervals throughout its life.

We all know the search UI is horrendous for desktop and mobile. Where are you guys searching for vehicles that fit your criteria?

Besides setting up a filter for a truck and it showing me Nissan sentras, or a mom van, instead of what I asked, there's all the scam ads that claim "clean titles" that are actually salvage, or the mileage says 21,540 when the actual mileage is, 210K and then it's either trucks that are 200-300K+ miles for a 15 year old one for 25K. Or, its 1-3 year old newer trucks from Big box or small shady dealers with 100K+ miles for 55K+ .

I saw a guy post - "look for private sellers, they are better priced than dealers" and I'm like - what private sellers?? you can't even filter by seller, and then it seems everyone with a reasonably used vehicle is keeping theirs due to price gouging dealers and higher interest rates.

Is there really no options for anything reasonable? Is this what you're seeing or am I just a loser (don't ask answer that lol)?

TLDR: What sites/apps are you guys using to look for used reasonably used trucks?

btw: I didn't know they make Mega cab long beds. or they don't lol.

Pic is for attention

I realize the answers/thoughts to this will vary widely.. depending on use case and budget.

Are center console boats simply not made for laying out, having a lounge area where a few people can sun tan on an open bow or stern? Obviously, many center consoles can be custom ordered/built to have seat cushions that connect in the front bow area to have a lounging area but specifically an area that is large enough to lay out for a decent size human? I've noticed, that it really takes getting into some size on a size on a CC, like 30ft and above to have enough space to have to lounge in the bow area, or like a second row of seats behind the captains helm, and/or seats along the back transom/livewells to be able to lay down. I've seen some CCs that the gunnel is large and wide enough for someone to lay a towel on it and sun laying on it.

If you're a fisherman or fish enthusiast, you probably care more about live wells and rod holders but If you're a family and want them to be comfortable, do you just look elsewhere? Like, a 24 foot pontoon+ or bow rider? If you live near an ocean, these types of boats are pretty much out.

Would love to offer my family more relaxation, but comfort in a center console is seems a direct derivative of how deep your pockets are after 30 feet and a midnight express with 2 rows of seats and a center cabin to lay down in is above my pay grade.

TLDR: Are center consoles not designed for as much comfort and cushion as other types of boats? Pontoons have so much cushion surface and run about seems to have more and more. obviously not apple to apples..

I'm not looking for an absolute solution, but more of a discussion on your thoughts. Thanks any wisdom.