u/ALttN

My daughter was wanting a new game to sink some time into - started to get bored of Animal Crossing so I thought this might be a good fit for her. I looked into it and discovered this was a popular import for physical game collectors since it’s only available digitally in the US. And since I’m running out of storage space, I thought it might be worthwhile to import a copy! Got mine from Play-Asia for $45, so not too bad of a deal even after shipping. Though I’m not sure how much room I saved with having the cartridge — despite it not being a GKC, the latest update is over 8 GB installed!

I might start looking into other imports — I’m aware of another Level-5 game, Captain Tsubasa Inazuma Eleven (got my soccer games mixed up!), that was given similar multilingual treatment despite being a JP physical exclusive. But what other game carts are worth importing?

I was inspired to stay up late and drive up near Lava Canyon to try and get some good shots. Unfortunately I just didn’t have great luck getting some of them to show up while the exposure was going — and what I did happen to get was poorly framed. Still, got to witness a lot more than if I had stayed in town! I forgot how clear the sky gets out there.

Who else decided to go out of their way to get a good view?

I wasn’t sure what to expect, was not familiar with the brand but they were reassuringly heavy so I rolled the dice. Man alive do these things kick! I’m doing an A/B test right now with my MCS 8228 floorstanding speakers, and the bass response while not quite as low really surprised me. They punch well above their weight. Unfortunately since they’re 6 ohm, I can’t drive them at the same time as the 8228s. But either way, I’m pretty happy for $30!

Saw it on the Craigslist, looks like it may be a European TV? Has a SCART socket, but I had no idea Samsung made EDTVs all the way through 2013. Anyone ever seen one before? Wish I had picked it up! Just checked again, looks like the listing was deleted

Seems to have only started once the “Games” tab showed up — separate note, but you really ought to let people customize the bottom tabs, I’m sick of those moving around or straight up changing!

I’ve been having to completely kill the app and relaunch to get the screen to come back, but sometimes hitting the “+” to create a post and canceling will restore things too. Either way, fix this please

Two nights ago I sprayed the shit out of a decent size paper wasp nest on my back eave, killed about 18 of them altogether (second pic). Next morning the nest was still empty so I knocked it down, squished the remaining dozen or so larva and pupa, thought that was it.

Fast forward to today, I see at least three more attempting to build a new nest in the same spot. Got up there and sprayed brake cleaner on them, instant death.

Idk why that particular part of my house is so desirable to these fucks, it’s hard to reach because I have a gazebo in the way and it requires me to put my full weight on the roof to get the angle to spray them directly.

Any advice on how to keep them from coming back??

I’ve read that this model doesn’t natively support 24p content, but I’m now confused because the manual shows that this set does support 1080/24p, albeit only over HDMI. My understanding is that for component video and 1080i, 3:2 pulldown can be turned on to simulate the cinematic frame rate.

Now for my setup, I actually do use Blue-ray over component and 1080i, but I’m wondering if the 3:2 pulldown is better or worse than 1080p direct connection over HDMI. It’s an option, I just don’t know which would be better for my situation.

Can anyone help me make sense of this?

Found this NOS touch pen on eBay. Ludicrously stupid concept — could you imagine spending $80 on this back in the day!? I could see it finding some use in a conference room or something, but these silly flash games are hilarious.

Also, not recommended if you have a Louver filter on the glass — hard plastic tip can scratch the screen. What were they thinking haha

I’ve narrowed down the issue to my 4K Chromecast; it is not a fault of the TV or video, as I swapped out the Google TV for my backup 1080p Chromecast and played the same video — pixels were gone.

It seems to show up when there are pixels illuminated on the left side of the screen; it’s almost like the entire picture is shifted one column of pixels over and has them repeating on the far side of the screen.

Any way to fix this?

Two S64 models, three days apart. This second one not only has 11k fewer hours, but it’s in better condition! The first one had several nicks and scratches to the screen, and the new one’s screen is practically flawless.

Oh, and only 50 bucks!

Can’t tell what this came from, almost looks like a chat window from a computer or something. This really has been the only flaw so far with the display, the color uniformity and contrast ratio is way better than my last TV

Currently on version 1.3, will be updating to 1.4 soon but seems like since that last update, the 3D has gained the ability to remember display settings for each game. I assume that was the intention with hardware overclocking as well, but the problem I’m now running into is it will revert games back to auto. And since you can’t change that setting while playing the game, it’s sort of stuck that way?

In the video you can see my Everdrive menu shows unleashed as that’s what I had set it to before starting up, but as soon as I start Banjo-Tooie it switches it back to the default setting.

Is there any fix for this?

Edit: disregard, I’m a dummy who didn’t notice the 3D adds the Game ID to your game queue. Will leave up for future dummies like me

(First pic is my Panasonic TC-65PS64, second pic is the Samsung PN64H5000)

34,500 hours is quite a lot of use, more than I was led to believe… On the other hand, my outgoing TV (the one I was intending to replace) has only 11,000 hours of use, and maybe half of that has been from me. The old set still has a lot of life left if that number is anything to go by, but it is an inferior set compared to the other.

What should I do? If I had to keep just one, should I go back to the first set?

Will be replacing my Samsung PN64H5000. Been a great set, but it doesn’t even compare. This thing is gorgeous

It’s in pretty good shape, couple light scratches on the AG filter but no IR. Though it was pretty dirty; I decided to take the back panel off and clean out all the dust and pet dander.

I’m a little annoyed by the wall mount screw holes though; why did they make them so close together? The TV hangs about 5 inches higher now as a result.

Edit: Does anyone know how to enable Game Mode? Does it even have a Game Mode? It was mentioned that this set has pretty low latency; I want to make sure there’s minimal image processing

I want to check off every possible route in the game — the original had 25 possible route combinations — but unless I take screenshots after every single campaign, I have no way to go back and check? Why didn’t they keep the ability to view past high scores?

The listing shows it was made May 2013. Late for plasma but I’m unfamiliar with the model number.

The seller is asking $150 with the stand included which seems like a good deal, but it’ll be a bit of a drive for me. Thoughts? Is it on par with the ST60?

I want to preface this by saying — I’m a tinkerer, not an expert. I come here humbly to see if what I’m asking is even possible. Right now, it’s only designed for power from a Nintendo Switch 2 AC adapter, meant to be a simple passthrough to/from the console when attached. I have another device that displays the video output to a TV over USB-C, but the system just kinda lays there when in use, hence why I wanted to use this as a passthrough — it props the system up and has a nice solid connection to the USB port.

I’m a bit annoyed that this stand stripped away the data lines to just provide power, so I wanted to see if it’s possible to add it back in. At the very least, the vias and pins are all visible, so in theory it should be possible. But given all the other circuitry here, I was concerned diverting the data pins around the power board might accidentally fry my system in the process.

Again, I’m not an expert — just enough to be dangerous. Any guidance or knowledge would be greatly appreciated!

I’m already aware that this stand didn’t support video passthrough out of the box, but I had to know how complex the circuitry inside was. My naive thinking was “well, I have a small passthrough dongle that works with video, maybe I can bodge it onto the board inside? But obviously it’s a bit more complicated than that.

Any electrical engineers or tinkerers here who want to take a guess as to how feasible it would be? I honestly wouldn’t even mind losing the USB-A ports — I just wanted a tidy way of displaying the console that also has a passthrough for USB-C