So far considering: baseball grip tape, tennis racket tape, or the sport wrap that only adheres to itself. Not sure if the name of that one.
And yes, I used AI to generate this. I am not a graphic artist. I gave it the prompts I like from kits over the years- white shirt with sash, blue shorts, red socks, subtle details, and the away kit ideas.
I am guessing word of mouth, cousins networks, etc, but damn that system was efficient.
Edit: if this example is too close to the Internet age go back farther. Yes, people spoke to each other. Still interesting to me how quickly rumors and gossip took hold seemingly coast to coast in a time where the majority of homes probably only had one phone line and long distance was expensive.
The key portion ALWAYS comes loose where it attaches to the shell. I guess I need to adjust add some Loctite.
Followed closely by "you don't need to bring a steak to room temp before you grill it."
I may talk about grilling steak a lot. 🤔
Edit-typo in headline, should say travelling case. Also not sure why the first pic is upside down...
This is a pluckable case, the foam is precut, so once I configure it I am locked in. Is there any reason to pack two risers? I definitely want to take recurve and longbow limbs, just to vary the shoots. Considering if I want to try to fit arrows in here too (stacked, alternating directions) or pack a separate arrow box. That would seem to to be defeating the purpose though.
Also, how do you all pack strings so that you don't lose a lot of twist in them? I know retwisting them is not hard. Just wondering if there's a better way to preserve the brace length.
Sorry about the not great photo but it was very busy in the store and I only managed to snap one wide angle picture!
For this sauce, key ingredients are: water, Habenero, carrots, salt, spices, onion powder and all the stabilizers etc.
Carrot flavor really rounds it out, great spice flavor, and the heat kicks in late and lingers, exactly what I think of when considering Habenero sauces.
Delicious. Would buy again.
Edited to add ingredients and impressions.
I don't really have room in my shop for a dust collector that I think would make it worth the expense, or doing away with a tool or two. I currently use a Shop-Vac hookup, and a Wen air filter. I use a decent dust mask, but I have a beard and use a lot of cedar. I know the beard prevents a full seal and that the cedar is toxic over time. A PAPR like this with a full helmet mask (not the mask pictured) seems like the best way to go.
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Does anyone have experience with this model?
I received the Vane Master Pro for free from my brother, seems like a decent jig, but I really don't have anything to compare it too.
37 pounds at 28, 68", hickory with purple heart and poplar grip. 20 yards.
I find that when I get sloppy it's because I either collapse, or do not pull through the shot. I get so focused on my anchor point I do not get into back tension and miss low every time. Similarly, once I lock onto my target spot if my eyes shift to the arrow, there's no telling where the miss will be. I know that subconsciously, or in my peripheral vision, I'm aware of the arrow, but running this little mantra in my head keeps me focused on my point of impact while I'm applying constant jaw tension.
I don't know how anyone was using it as a dining table. I had hoped to repurpose it into another dining table, but by the time I got down to the most useful pieces there wasn't really enough left. A few other chunks are going into cutting boards and other projects.
I will be cooking on a propane single burner stove, like what you might see at a buffet. Definitely bringing a small cast iron pan and french press. I'll have access to ice and water.
The fork and spreader are sapele, the tongs are walnut and spalted maple. The spreader is maybe a little too big and I think the fork tines need to be closer together.
The board is maple, sapele, and zebra wood. The bowl is Willow Oak. Both of these were made by very talented friends of mine.
Front opening for cleaning. Can be mounted through the back or floor. Finished with mineral oil and bees wax.
I work to the greatest extent possible with reclaimed wood, or off cuts from other woodworkers. I get off cuts from two millworks a few times a year, and store them in a shed workshop. As a result much of the stock I have available to use has some sort of flaw- twist, cup, check, knot holes, etc. Luckily I mainly make birdhouses, and the birds don't care.
Lately I have been trying to incorporate knotholes into my designs, either as the primary opening, or as seen here, bolstering the opening to make it harder for predators to reach the eggs or chicks. This burled maple knothole is perfect for that and is secured with Titebond3. The cut opening is 1.5" for max bird appeal but can be sized down from the inside of desired.
For this build, both sidewalls have a slight cup, and I didnt have a piece of sapele wide enough to span the cavity and hide the cup. Took me longer than I care to admit, but eventually I realized I could widen the roof with bit of the extra oak, which I think really ties it all together.
The front panel is secured by two black galvanized screws that act as hinges so the cavity can be cleaned each year. One screw at the bottom locks the door. Drain holes in the floor and ventilation holes in the wall complete the build. The oversized back panel allows for wall or tree mount, and the floor is strong enough for post mounting if desired.
I finish these with mineral oil and bees wax-essentialy a cutting board type finish, and tell the people who receive them to either do that annually, or to just let them weather.
TL/DR: I don't think they can leave the boards there between classes. And they can't take the clamps with them. Titebond3 sets in 1 hour, but I know longer in clamps is generally better. It is what it is for this class.
Not sure what I was thinking agreeing to this one. I have taught single session charcuterie board and birdhouse classes. Time can get tight on those but we always finish. When the course coordinateor asked about a cutting board class I figured 6 hours over two different days was plenty of time, we are using S4S kits. Completely forgot about glue drying time, since I just leave my stuff in my workshop, or work on one of the 20 other projects I always have going.
I don't know if they can leave the boards there in between classes. But worst case I figure an hour and a half in the clamps with Titebond 3 is enough time to unclamp the boards and take them home at the end of night one. I will have them cure the boards flat and bring them back.
For part of the remaining time, we'll talk about what we're going to do next, and how to care for the boards. But that's not going to take very long. What simple, semi-related projects can we do in about an hour? This will take place in a middle school wood shop.
In addition to cutting board racks, I considered things like toaster tongs, bag clips, or wooden butter/jam knives. Any and all tips and ideas welcome!
I was just fixing a loose board on the back landing, and needed to drill pilot holes at each end. I was on the ground, landing is just shy of waist level. Drilled one end, spun the board to get the other, missed the stop and whack! Down for the count.
To paraphrase Eddie Murphy, you don't need to hit nuts. You just need to graze nuts.
Pics posted in reversed order. See the third pick for just the platform, or see my original post for more details. .
I will almost always be camping alone. Priorities are a good night's sleep and good camping meals. What are your best tips for these accommodations in addition to my planned improvements listed below?
First, the positives- platform worked exactly as planned. Easy to assemble and disassemble, converted back to shelving in my basement quickly. I left the top shelf unattached basically because of the height where the shelves need to go but also so that I wouldn't have to remove all of the leg pieces every time.
Some planned upgrades:
- Plan to make PVC telescoping legs with star bolts that I can use to adjust level directly on the platform as needed and to buy some leveling wedges for the vehicle as well. I had a pretty flat spot for the test trip and just used some thin wooden shims under the platform legs on one side but I'd rather not have to keep track of those. And I know level-ish parking will be somewhat hard to find at times.
- Need to construct some sort of the shelf to span the gap between the front seats and the platform so that pillows and things don't fall down into that space.
- I put some magnetic mounts inside the cabin to hold USB rechargeable light bulbs. Those worked well except for my placement of them, I knocked the lights down a couple times. Getting situated. Will need to rethink those.
- Used the bug screens that stretch and slip over the whole door assembly. They were okay but didn't quite reach the bottom of the window area and one of them has a slight tear after just one use. I'll be looking for magnetic or other attachment system screens.