I've read that a few folks have managed to recharge a fully drained T30S battery, but I haven't been able to find any information about how this is done. I've found some videos about other models that have much more obvious battery compartments, but none for mine.
Any advice is appreciated!
She's currently playing Jurassic World Evolution 3, and that one might be tough to beat. It's ok if dinos are the enemy, as long as you really get to enjoy the dinos in some way.
She likes pretty much everything and is very knowledgeable about games as well. I was thinking we could give the Dino Crisis series a shot, but I'm hoping to get some other suggestions too.
There really aren't any other constraints! Like I said, she's into everything, she even wants to play Trespasser real bad at this point!
Hello! I've designed a PCB to learn how to design PCB's, and to a lesser extent, to be reusable/useful for most of the projects I want to build. It's just a simple board designed to do audio output and MIDI I/O via TRS cables.
I designed the board in KiCAD which I'm entirely new to.
I have a few questions, so I'll try to be brief!
Thanks for your patience and input here!
(Sorry for the verbose title, my first post was removed)
edit adding my current schematic design:
(the DAC is on the right side and has its own TRS connector built in)
I have a dawless setup. A lot of my devices have traditional on/off switches, like my MC-101, my Behringer Edge and TD-3, etc.
Is it safe for me to just always leave them switched on, and power them on and off with switches on a power strip?
More importantly, is there any way for me to objectively determine whether it's safe to operate a piece of equipment this way?
I've once again started over when it comes to organizing my setup. My focus is on getting cables out of the way, and I want everything to be reasonably permanent but very accessible. Thanks to a few posts elsewhere, I've seen that using pedalboards is a popular option. I know nothing about them, but in my brief research I have seen that they're much more complex than the old plywood-based setups I've seen guitarists use for a while. I had no idea that they'll often have power distribution setups built in, as well as patchbays and similar things.
But still, it feels a bit like forcing a square peg in a round hole. Are there similar solutions more oriented towards desktop use with synthesizers (in my case mostly grooveboxes and soundmodules)? Does anybody have any specific recommendations? I really like the idea of having all the cables run into one or two IO panels with power/sound inside of the surface (be it a pedalboard or otherwise). I'm also more than happy to build my own setup with my 3D printer other materials, but would still need more info about the electronics side of things. I would love to be able to get rid of my powerbricks but that seems unlikely.
Thanks for any help!
I know about the Deluge and have a Bastl Kastle 2. Is there anything else out there I should know about? :)
I really wish the Elektron boxes were hackable.
(Edit: not super interested in things like the NTS-1 and other Korg devices that give you a small sandbox within an otherwise locked down device)
I'm just a little overwhelmed with options! I've got a few devices now, and different grooveboxes. Some of these devices have fixed midi channels that conflict with each other. What's do you recommend for a (hopefully cheap) way to make a nice, permanent setup without a PC where I can reconfigure connections without unplugging things all the time? Ideally I'd love to be able to say "hey send channels 11, 12, 13 to 1, 2, 3 on this output".
Also is it safe to run MIDI Y-splitters in series?
Thank you!
Edit to say that I'm ok with needing a PC to set it up initially, but I just don't want to have to boot one to use it!
I run into funny little gain staging problems that I only notice later. The worst of these are often noticeable on a spectrum analyzer in my DAW.
I was looking at the Korg NTS-2, but it's primarily focused on being an oscilloscope, and while it does have a mode with a spectrum analyzer as well, I believe it will always show a scope alongside it, and it's visually messy in that mode (please correct me if I'm wrong!)
Do any of you use any good, inexpensive hardware spectrum analyzers that you can recommend? I see some on amazon that start at like 200hz but that's too high for me (my issues are often sub-bass). What about other useful types of visualizers?
I've read about some folks using old phones, and I'm not super into that idea, but I'm willing to entertain it lol.
Ffmpeg offers a lot of ways to process and analyze audio files and is very easy to work with. I know there are a few sample managers out there too that can do similar jobs.
I've been working on assembling a good sample library for a while now. While I know there's no silver bullet, I'd like to know what approaches others use for making their samples play nicely with each other out of the box.
Is it worth it to try to squeeze the most out of the available bits to normalize everything to 0db, even if that means having to always adjust levels immediately after loading a sample? Or do you prefer more perceptual normalizations? If so, which one?
Thanks!
I often run into some mix/mastering problems, especially later in a session, partially due to ear fatigue.
I want to get some visual feedback and I'm wondering if/how people use oscilloscopes during sound design and music production.
Obviously they have huge utility when building your own synths or troubleshooting them, but are they still useful when everything is working?
I do a lot of little jams as a hobby, and I record some of them. I recently recorded this impromptu thing, and noticed that it was a good example of a lot of the issues I encounter often.
I feel like a lot of my sounds are missing a "middle" and end up feeling a lot like white noise and a bass that's too quiet, even though it all sounds fine to me in my recording area. The bass voice that starts at the beginning is a good example of this, as well as the synth that comes in right after the 31 second mark.
Later in the song there's a little vocal bit that just didn't work, but luckily I noticed that at the time - so don't worry about that one too much haha. There's also an issue with the panning on the hats. I do think I'd like to add something to my hardware setup to give me a little visual feedback in my studio.
Anyway, I'd really like any input that might help me put words to my issues, and I'd love to find some techniques for staying more objective during my jams, like identifying when I'm "doing that thing again". Of course, if you notice anything else I'm doing wrong, I'd love to hear about that as well.
Thanks!
I've been animating characters for a game recently, and I find myself adding a bunch of random movements in things like idle animations to stop bones from looking rigid and stiff. I find that, for best results, I basically have to randomize every channel that isn't pinned down by gravity or something else to make things look "alive". I'm wondering, are there better ways to approach this?
I'm working on a custom rig (am still learning how to make them!)
When I switch between actions, the initial pose is sometimes incorrect until I touch the timeline, or attempt to edit something. The specific issue seems to be limited to the pole targets being ignored. The arms are the only things that move, even if I have the entire skeleton visible.
Generally speaking, what kind of things can cause this issue?
(had to repost due to the original post being cropped)
I've taken a few steps deeper into rigging and have started trying to build nice controllers for myself. So far I've hidden the pole targets on arms, and have been able to get away with quite a lot by just having them be children of the IK targets (which are themselves hidden in favor of other controllers).
However, I'm finding myself occasionally needing to modify them. What's a nice way to set up a pole target controller for arms that doesn't get in the way when I don't need it?
I've been using Mythic and have a few systems that work well with it. I find myself doing a lot of bookkeeping, which can be nice in its own right.
However, I've been craving something more tactile. Are there any solo systems out there that can store all of their information on a table, rather than a notebook, much in the way a boardgame does? I'd love to be able to use various figures, terrain pieces, and maybe some tokens etc. to play something on a large desk by myself and explore a story that way.
Maybe this is asking too much, but I'd love to do something like this with a larger campaign as well. I'd especially love something that works with my own settings and characters.
Thanks for any input! (Reddit auto suggested I post this here as well, please let me know if this post is unwelcome here!)
I've been using Mythic and have a few systems that work well with it. I find myself doing a lot of bookkeeping, which can be nice in its own right.
However, I've been craving something more tactile. Are there any solo systems out there that can store all of their information on a table, rather than a notebook, much in the way a boardgame does? I'd love to be able to use various figures, terrain pieces, and maybe some tokens etc. to play something on a large desk by myself and explore a story that way.
Maybe this is asking too much, but I'd love to do something like this with a larger campaign as well.
I have a rig that's using IK. The character is holding a rifle. I have a bone representing the weapon, and I'd like to make the left hand's IK target follow the front of the rifle most of the time (with the ability to keyframe the influence.)
I figure the correct way to do this is to create an additional bone in the armature attached to the weapon's bone (I'll call this the "grip bone" for our purposes), and to add a "child of" constraint to the left hand's IK target. However, I'm having a very hard time getting the constraint to behave correctly.
If I hit "Clear Inverse" and zero out the IK target's transform, it does not go to the origin of the grip bone. If I roughly align them and hit Set Inverse, the IK target it seems to go to an arbitrary location.
What could be happening? Am I doing things incorrectly?
I've got a good setup. As far as I know, there's nothing about the RD-6 that's even tweakable. I have a few devices that I can just load 606 samples onto, and a couple still that have 606 style sounds in them.
I adore my TD-3, it's one of the most fun synths I own to mess around with, but it does have a very unique sound. I don't believe the same can be said for the RD-6
I feel like this is the only time I've really felt a completely pointless sense of GAS, but luckily you can find them pretty cheap.
What do you all think. Is it acceptable or stupid to buy it just because it's a "Fun Toy"? Are there actual reasons to purchase one that I'm not aware of?
I recognize that this is a dumb post. Please forgive me <3
Forgive me if this question is silly or irrelevant, but it always seemed to me that training models to know a bunch of stuff might be less effective (albeit easier) than training them primarily to apply logic when given access to knowledge. If this IS a reasonable question, I'd love to know more about it!
It seems to me that having a general LLM that's capable of using a massive context window and researching using local files would be a very practical way to operate on consumer hardware. But again, I don't know anything about this and am making big assumptions!
On the other hand, it would make sense to me if we don't really have a way to do that right now, and won't for a while. I wouldn't be surprised if the logical abilities of current sota models are more or less an emergent property of their massive knowledge.
Thanks for any responses!
Hello! I just started playing, I was hunting in the woods and a "hostility" pop-up appeared on the right side of my screen. I put my gun away and it kept happening. Eventually it said I had a bounty on my head. I exited, because I heard that hackers are a thing, and I assumed that was what was happening. When I logged back in, I had a $24 bounty on my head, which is more than I've made the whole time I've played so far doing the things I want to do. Bounty hunters showed up and killed me and took the money.
Is there anything I can do to get rid of a bounty other than paying it? I'm a bit discouraged because I like hunting and stuff, but if one hacker can wipe out my gains that quickly, there's not much of a point to it. I know I can play on pseudo-private servers as well, but that's less fun. I wasn't able to find any alternatives online.
Thanks for any help!
