u/CoastieCompMester

I’ve been trying to update to 7.17.1 and it consistently falls to download and install. No error other than a generic “there was a problem.”

I’m starting to frequently see a no weather data available message on the radio screen. When I first saw it a couple of days app, I looked it up on Google and found it was related to some sort of add on for Sirius XM.

I first called the dealership service to ask about this add they had no idea and suggested talking to new sales, who also had no clue but thought it might be related to Sirius XM. Called them and has to fight my way through the virtual assistant to talk to a human. Before I could find out if this feature was related to Sirius XM, the weather data came back.

So, what is ultimately going on with this feature on the radio? What service is it a part of and why is it not displaying the data?

26 limited

Banana

The Gemini box won’t connect to WiFi and states can’t find SSID. For simplicity, let’s say the SSIDs are network 1 and network 2.

I have AT&T Internet and have the bgw210-700 device. The SSID example on the first bgw210 would have been network 1. As part of troubleshooting connectivity issues with all devices, the first bgw was replaced with a new one. Normally that would mean a different SSID (which technically there is - sticker on the new bgw would be network 2), but the settings from the old bgw were copied over to the new one so that all devices would not be affected.

Well, the Gemini sees BOTH SSIDs (don’t know how that’s possible(, but it won’t connect to either one. If this error indicates a password issue, well a better error message would be to indicate a problem with the password.

Called support to try and get assistance, but all they wanted to do was send a new device at cost. I did setup an eero mesh over the weekend. Only way of having DIRECT service is to use an Ethernet cable.

I also have a Gemini air but haven’t used it in a while. I’d like to know why the Gemini box won’t connect to WiFi

I setup the eero6 following the instructions in the app. I then went to the AT&T BGW210 and turned on pass through mode. There was only one eero in the list among every other device MAC. AT&T advised to turn off the 2.4 and 5g radios so I also did that and restarted the eero.

I used the same ssid and password from the bgw210. I verified it correctly multiple times. Devices did NOT transfer over seamlessly; they are indicating no network connection even though again, it’s the same connection as it was before the eero.

What happened?

As a half season ticket holder, I don’t have any pre season games on my account but wanted to go to the Sept 24 game. I thought that by logging into am.Ticketmaster.com/bluejackets that there would be the opportunity to purchase tickets at the STH rate; only STH plans are listed. Do I have to just purchase at regular price through the CBJ app?

I’m occasionally running the fan, and after the set period of time for the fan, ecobee is reverting back to a temp of 78; I’ve kept it set at 72 for AC. Why is it going to 78?

I’m experiencing ongoing issues where the AirPods Pro are not charging. Case is fully charged while the AirPods show like 10%. It’s either that or one side is fully charged and the other is not.

I had the AirPods replaced under warranty and still continue to experience the same issue. I feel like when I take the AirPods out the I have to deliberately force them into the case to make sure they charge.

Should I just at this point get a newer model of AirPods? For reference, I had an Android phone previously and used galaxy buds and never had issues with them.

I have automatic Windows updates on and within the past two weeks, Windows (and Chrome) automatically updated. Aside from an occasional AMD Wattman crash, there were no issues. AFTER the update, I have not been able to keep my computer on for longer than 10 minutes without it locking up because of AMD Wattman having an issue. Instagram/YouTube seem to be the main culprits. The screen will flash black and then restore, allowing me just enough time to save what I am doing. I suppose that the continued crashing and the fact that I can no longer upgrade the drivers is a sign that I need to replace the video card. Prior to writing this post, I had to restart my computer three separate times to recover from the crash.

My specs:

- CPU: Intel i7-4790k 4GHz

- GPU: Radeon R9 280x

- CPU cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212

- Motherboard: Asus Z-97A

- RAM: 8GB DDR3

- PSU: Corsair C750 750W

- OS: Windows 10

I am seeing active fiber installation going on around me, but it's apparent that my street is going to be skipped. Been waiting five years to get better than 100Mbps, but meanwhile the competition has much faster speed but it's cable-based.

I've been chatting with a service representative on social media who wants to send a tech out. I've got a three floor home (approx. 2000sqft). The way the internet was setup, the gateway modem is on the main floor and can't be moved without having a new line run. Between my TVs, tablet, personal computer and work computer, I've got multiple devices connected (obviously not all are in use at the same time). I've tried AT&T's wifi extender, but it made no difference (plus if I were to try it again, I would rather not increase the cost of my service by having extra equipment charges). I've ordered an Amazon eero 6 3-pack with hopes that it will do something,

My main issue is when watching TV in the basement or upstairs - I'm using a firestick and am CONSTANTLY getting messages stating "when network is congested, video may not play smoothly." Some devices just randomly drop the WiFi. The firestick in the basement claimed recently that the home feature was unavailable because a connection could not be established to the server.

AT&T can't get anyone out to my area until at least Sept 1 and with my schedule and not being available during the day, I guarantee that Sept. 1 date will be pushed back even further. Looking for suggestions on what else to do.

When I go to settings, I see the two systems I have: living room and basement. Either one I click on, I keep getting a login prompt. I signed in already before I posted this and then went back to click on the living room system again where I got a sign in prompt.

Logging in is just loading Sonos.com within the app.

Live TV is slow to load. DVR content also slow to load. I’m quite often seeing “congestion” messages. Live TV is frequently interrupted; I had the app close on its own recently while watching TV.

I’m stuck with 100mb internet. I’d love to get higher speed but it seems it just isn’t meant to be with AT&T. This just isn’t working satisfactorily.

I have the headlight switch on auto. While driving I noticed the high beam assist on the dashboard. I didn’t touch the headlight lever. At the same time, the radio display dimmed. This all happened in the daytime but it was starting to get dark from storm clouds. How would this feature activate on its own if it requires first pushing the lever forward?

Banana

On a TV with an attached firestick, I wanted to open DIRECTV stream. The TV has been down off the wall for a year while I had construction work being dome. Just got it put back up. I guess it’s understandable that the app would have logged me out in that one year time frame.

I scanned the QR code and rather than get logged in on the TV, the login processed on my phone. Meanwhile the DIRECTV app kept displaying an error (600) indicating a problem with the server. Nothing was fixing that error.

Eventually, after entering my username and password, I kept getting a service selection menu - My FreeTv (included). Add this package— x $; add this package—-X $ and so on. As before, nothing was fixing this.

Had to completely start over again by uninstalling and reinstalling the app. Signed in with email address as before but had to reset password which now means I have to re login to several other devices.

Why did QR login process on the phone and not the TV. How did I end up getting a menu which I assume was the free DIRECTV stream? It took quite a bit of effort to untangle user IDs from paid and free version last year when I had login issues.

Put my TV back up after having it down for the past year. Everything worked just fine until the TV needed a software update along with wanting to do a screen refresh. Now after the update, firestick which is the source for watching DIRECTV and firestick no longer works.

TV is an LGOLED65A1PUA

If everything worked before the update then it should stand to reason that the firestick should still work now but that isn’t the case.

No idea where to start with fixing the issue.

I had the arc soundbar attached to a rocketfish mount. I had to take down the TV a while back and now I'm ready to put it back up. I have two screws and two washers; the screws perfectly fit in he back of the arc but I can't seem to get the same screws into the holes on the mount. I put everything aside and in one place when I took the TV down and removed the soundbar from the mount. What am I gong to need to reattach the soundbar to the mount?

CarPlay was working as recently as a week or so ago, now it no longer connects. WiFi and Bluetooth on the phone are on. I just updated my iPhone 16 pro max to 26.5.2 (CarPlay did previously work on the prior iOS version but not today when I wanted to use it) and it doesn’t work on the new iOS version. Tried a soft reset of the radio and that didn’t work either.

When I open the CarPlay app I see Crosstrek listed and Subaru starlink listed. Phone does appear to be connected on Bluetooth since I’m seeing a list of all calls I’ve made over recent days.

Pressing the source button on the steering wheel, it doesn’t even go to CarPlay and there’s no CarPlay button on the radio display.

Banana

Wanted to record a news segment on CBS. No record option available. As a test, I checked A&E - can record. Checked ABC - no record option.

If I was home, I could record all three if I wanted to, so what’s the deal with not being able to record abc or CBS?

I’ve been applying to federal jobs for quite some time now and the process just isn’t working out. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong that isn’t getting me past automated reviews (if that is being used).

I’m applying for 2210 series ;specifically cyber). Got a masters in the subject area, one graduate certificate program in cyber complete, and I’m halfway through another graduate certificate program. I have the cysa cert plus a cert specific to Microsoft Defender.

I’ve tried specifically pointing out attention to detail, communication, etc that seems to be in every announcement. I’ve tried taking the specific specialized experience and working that into past and present job experience.

I’ve had friends who are in GS positions send me announcements that are pretty much exactly what I used to do prior to a career change a couple of years ago and I’ve referenced their name in the application.

All the above just hasn’t worked out. My application goes to one of three categories:

Potentially eligible, not referred
Potentially eligible, referred

Or

Potentially eligible, referred, then a month or so later: not selected.

I carefully review the application questions but it seems like most don’t apply to me (I.e, not current or former government employee, not disabled, priority placement program n/a, not current or former national guard). At most, I have a 5 point veteran preference.

I had a fairly detailed resume that I had been using, then came the two page requirement so I cut out a lot of work history. I know this is fairly competitive, but I just don’t know where I’m going wrong.

I’ve spoken with friends who are in GS positions. I’ve heard that sometimes it’s who you know, but that doesn’t seem to help me. Some have said they had an “inside track” that helped them get in.

I first used only a keypad to open the door. I then decided to have a tech come out and program the homelink feature in my car (and also because the door needed general maintenance). The tech used the learn feature on the opener and programmed a remote. Then, the tech had me program the homelink. Everything worked just fine, but I chose not to keep the remote.

Now all the sudden the keypad doesn’t work. I know I’m entering the right code. I see a red light with each button p press. After the pressing the up/down button the red light is flashing for a few seconds. I put new batteries in and no change. I’m now locked out of the garage.

Opener is model cm8600ic. I have a tech coming out in a l couple of days but I don’t understand what happened. How can the keypad work after programming and then a few days later stop working?