This looks like the perfect 100-400yd deer/elk/general hunting scope to me (minus on price.) 23 ounces, bomb proof, capped or dialing elevation turret. I was eyeing the NX8 but this honestly looks like a more optimal range, cheaper, and much lighter. This is comparing to the Leupold 5hd and Maven rs 1.2
Rifle: Tikka t3x Lite with 20" stainless barrel
Caliber: .308
Optic: Leupold vx5HD 3-15x44 Gen 2 vs. Maven Rs 1.2 vs. Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50 F1
Rings: Unknown Munitions Medium Tikka Scope Rings
This is what my weeks of research has led me. I'm looking for what is the Toyota Tacoma/Glock 19/USA Fender Stratocaster of a hunting rig. Industry standard with high end components. Jury is still out on the optic - My main interest is durability and warranty support if something goes wrong. I don't want to think twice about it.
Since I've only hunted upland birds and waterfowl, this is a totally different territory. I want one rifle to rule them all (for North American game.) I don't know if I'll ever want to hunt bighorn sheep, for example, I have zero interest, but I don't want to have to get a new rig for it if that day ever comes. I never thought I would want to hunt elk but here we are.
Thoughts?
Bit time idiota, I ran into my plastic garbage bin while backing up and somehow it scratched my car badly. Chat says it's not considered a deep scratch but it certainly fails the fingernail test. My fingernail gets caught in it.
I was going to to follow the Chris Fix YouTube channel but reading through the comments, I saw a few claim that his method only really works on white cars. Mine is an "Underground Gray".
I saw another post saying Dr Colorchip worked well for their scratch. But, I noticed their product is for paint chips and not really scratches.
Any advice on what I should do? What's the best DIY option for me to fix this?
Like a total idiot, I hit a plastic garbage bin. I had no idea something like that could cause such a deep scratch. I cleaned with water and dishsoap then tried turtle wax. Did nothing. My fingernail does get hung up on it so I think it's gone beyond the clearcoat.
Everything I've seen online has contradicting things. For example, sanding this with 1000 grit and then using a paint pen seems to work well or NOT so well. The little bit of research says it works well on white cars but not any other colours.
Any advice on how to fix this?
I have an old 1750 Protector case. The smaller sticker (the one with red/orange coloring on it) is gone and I want to replace it. I see old threads saying Pelican will send you new stickers but I contacted them which customer service directed me to warranty and warranty told me they do not send or replace stickers.
So, who were people contacting to get these replacements? And I'm not looking for third party, just the one that comes with
What is the "industry standard" high end pairing for a Tikka t3x Lite Stainless in 308? No budget restrictions. That said, I don't need the 5k option, if that's not the commonplace pairing. I am not looking for a budget option for the sake of being budget - I'd rather the restrictions be things like durability, weight, glass quality etc
This would be for backcountry involving hiking, so obviously weight savings is probably important. I also want a good all around for deer, elk, bear - just in case I get into different hunts at a future date.
So far, I was eyeing Leupold VS-5D, Vortex Razor HD, Nightforce SHV or NX8. I just can't tell which Nightforce because I don't need a tactical scope, but I like the idea of durable no matter what. Things online say SHV is their budget line but it seems to be the most commonly recommended one for hunting.
I did not grow up hunting, so it didn't fall into my lap like majority of hunters. I did successfully dove, duck, and pig hunt in my two seasons, without the use of a guide. The BIG one that interested me the most was turkey, however. I live in socal which is not an easy place to be based as a hunter.
First and foremost - I believe the hardest part of turkey hunting is knowledge of access to a location. Without question. You need to know that where you'd be, there actually is a chance to hear gobbles. So, as someone in socal - I am nowhere near any area like that. There is no possibility of scouting, realistically - unless I were to take a week off. Closest spots are at least 3 hours away, and more if we're talking not pressured to the highest level. Going to meetings at NWTF didn't yield much - couldn't find anyone willing to point me in the right direction. Understandable, but frustrating.
I finally linked up with a guy willing to show me the ropes - his kindness led me to finally learn what I needed to learn and we went hard for 4 days. I learned quickly that turkeys behave irrationally - they spook from nothing. They spook if they DON'T see something they expect to see. Encountered many of the frustrating cliches - gobbles to radio silence. Getting hung up at +100 yards. One of the days, had one so close his gobbles rattled my bones but refused to show himself in the clearing. Hearing gobbles is the most exciting feeling. It was heart breaking, but I learned what I needed to do.
We didn't get it done then, but I decided to make the long drive again - heard the gobbles, called them in 30 min before first light. Two toms come in, 25 yards out, but they're too close to each other. I have my bead just above the wattle. I'm buzzing like crazy. Shotgun is feeling heavy and I don't want to miss, even though I am a very confident shot. They finally separate and not in strut BANG. Perfect shot placement, instant kill. Got it done - ended up having four beards, longest one being over ten inches.
The most exhilarating of any of the hunts I had been on, no contest.
Massive karma to those who willing to give new people a chance.