u/bimmerscout

Looking for advice on the simplest way to set up an audio system for my TV.

I’m in a ground flat (apartment) with my couches against an external wall, and my TV against an interior wall. I am conscious about the fact that upstairs neighbours can hear my TV travelling up the thin interior walls, however I don’t want to rearrange any furniture as I like how it is currently.

My plan is to get two speakers either side of my two couches for balanced sound from the TV.

For reference, my TV has a single 3.5mm jack audio out. I’ve measured, and I believe 25m of aux cable would be enough to go out of the TV, and around the perimeter of my living room to behind one of the couches.

What would the best setup be to get connection from the TV to two speakers.

Commented with a diagram to better visualise the room.

(Any recommendations on affordable options for this setup, not overly anal about quality, as long as it doesn’t have Temu quality sound I’ll be happy)

Finally looking to get an FAC, but a bit worried in terms of how to secure the gun safe appropriately.

I live in a ground floor flat, that doesn’t have any solid brick walls to fix the safe to, as is preferred by Firearms Licensing. Additionally, it is a relatively small flat, with no real places to fit it out of sight.

Would it be appropriate to fix it to the concrete floor, and then fit a wardrobe around it to make it look inconspicuous?

Sounds silly, but I wouldn’t feel comfortable having a gun safe out in the open, especially considering the room is at the front of the flat, where people enter and exit.

The amount of times I have gotten down to 10-20% health during a team fight, and ran to our team’s back line to get some quick heals, only to have to wait until natural health regen kicks in, despite both supports shooting over the teams head at the enemy.

Every time I mention it in team chat, it’s always ‘it’s QP who cares’, or ‘I don’t like you’, or ‘stop crying’.

I get it’s quick play, and I get it’s a support role not a ‘healer’ role, but seriously, how hard is it to take 2 seconds to heal your tank so that they can join in again with the team fight. I don’t care enough to sweat it in comp, and I just want to casually play the game. But it seems like every player in QP is so selfish that it just ruins the fun.

My favourite ever mobile game, and the first one that I played addictively.

Every few months I get hit with a bit of nostalgia for the game, and would love to get into a similar game.

Any recommendations?

I did a quote for new car insurance 2 weeks ago, and got quoted X amount. The insurers stated this quote was valid up until the end of June. I have just now used the quote reference to pay for the insurance, which is valid for another week, and it has increased 25%.

How is my original quoted price valid for another week, but is only showing me the price + 25%?

Are they allowed to increase the price on a quote that is valid until end of June?

Planning on doing my DISA valves, and I have heard the best way to get to the small one is to remove the belt and alternator, so I thought why not get the belt, pulley and tensioner done while I’m in there. (I’ve read up and seen that the INA belt kit on AutoDoc is an OEM kit? Can anyone confirm?)

This has got me thinking, is there anything else that’s worth doing whilst I’m getting at the DISA valves and belt?

For reference it’s a 160k N52 and I have recently done the VANOS solenoids, waterpump and thermostat.

Been having issues with a 2E7C code on my ‘06 330i (N52). The biggest of which being the fact I cannot scan my oil level.

I started by unplugging the IBS, then the oil pressure sensor, then the coolant temp sensor, then the alternator BSD plug. Only after unplugging the alternator BSD plug did the 2E7C code disappear, and a 2E98 code took its place. After finally being able to scan the oil level, it said -1L, so I topped up 1L and it was perfectly in the middle. So I then plugged the alternator BSD plug back in, and the 2E98 code disappeared, and the 2E7C code returned, and as expected, I could no longer scan the oil level.

My question is, do I have to replace the alternator to fix the 2E98 code? Or is there just a wire/plug I can swap out to fix it instead?

For reference, I have had no issues with the electrics whatsoever.

A few hundred miles ago, I had issues with my N52 bogging out and stalling once started, or under heavy acceleration. I then changed the VANOS solenoids with OEM parts and cleared all of the codes. After this, I had no more issues starting the car or accelerating with a heavy foot.

Yesterday, a few hundred miles after changing the solenoids, my car stalled right after starting it, after a rough 2 to 3 seconds of idling. It only started up and ran properly once I started it and immediately gave it a bit of gas.

Today, I started the car and it immediately bogged out and stalled. I then tried starting it again with a bit of gas and the same thing happened. This then happened two more times before I put my foot to the floor after starting and got it to about 5K RPM, before idling rough for about 10 seconds and then levelling out.

I’ve been scanned the Car again to see if there were different fault codes, but lo and behold the 2A87 VANOS intake code were back.

Can anyone advise me how I can get this piece of shit BMW to just run properly?

A few hundred miles ago, I had issues with my N52 bogging out and stalling once started, or under heavy acceleration. I then changed the VANOS solenoids with OEM parts and cleared all of the codes. After this, I had no more issues starting the car or accelerating with a heavy foot.

Yesterday, a few hundred miles after changing the solenoids, my car stalled right after starting it, after a rough 2 to 3 seconds of idling. It only started up and ran properly once I started it and immediately gave it a bit of gas.

Today, I started the car and it immediately bogged out and stalled. I then tried starting it again with a bit of gas and the same thing happened. This then happened two more times before I put my foot to the floor after starting and got it to about 5K RPM, before idling rough for about 10 seconds and then levelling out.

I’ve been scanned the Car again to see if there were different fault codes, but lo and behold the 2A87 VANOS intake code were back.

Can anyone advise me how I can get this piece of shit BMW to just run properly?

As the title states I have recently started hearing a clunking or deep ‘boing’ sound (like the kind that a spring makes when it releases tension) coming from the rear offside (right hand side) of my car. I mainly hear it when going over uneven ground or taking corners. The more drastic the difference is from smooth roads to the uneven road, the louder the noise is, and the more noises it makes. When driving constant speeds on smooth, straight roads, it feels absolutely and makes no abnormal noises.

I’ve jacked up the rear of my car and I cannot see anything out of the ordinary. The suspension looks fine on both sides of the car.

Doesn’t sound like top mounts, as I’ve had them go suddenly on an E90, but this is my first E91, so not sure if they would sound different.

Any ideas what it could be?

Edit: ‘06, not ‘05.

As the title states I have recently started hearing a clunking or deep ‘boing’ sound (like the kind that a spring makes when it releases tension) coming from the rear offside (right hand side) of my car. I mainly hear it when going over uneven ground or taking corners.

I’ve jacked up the rear of my car and I cannot see anything abnormal. The suspension looks fine on both sides of the car.