u/gafonid

Give me some questions to ask them while I'm here, or pics to take

Edit; they left within ten minutes of me posting thus but I'll try to answer questions

tl;dr about to go on a road trip in 1.5 hours and need a quick way to cause my big spal fan (which is hooked to a 195f thermostat right now) to kick on when the AUX fan engages, to make the AC system safer

(had to delete and repost as i missed some crucial images)

i replaced the mechanical fan with a very nice spal fan and fan shroud years ago, its made the cooling system much more reliable but has a fatal flaw;

it restricts airflow from the AUX fan, making the ac pressure run high on hot days when i kick the ac on from a stand still

Normally the aux fan kicks on instantly whenever you turn on the AC but right now even when its running its efficiency is reduced

so id rather have the spal fan also be running whenever the aux fan is running for the ac, but i dont know how best to do that on short notice. Can i literally just tap the grey thermostat line to the aux fan trigger line?

I'm fine using wire taps, i have good success with posi-taps actually

i included some wiring diagrams since the aux fan kick on from AC line is a little weird? like its separate from the temperature switch line i think?

the specific spal fan kit is https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-195fh?seid=srese1

in terms of relay wiring, big red is positive for the fan, big yellow is 12v constant from the engine positive post behind a big fuse, small red is 12v ignition which is coming from the DME box, small grey goes directly to the 195f thermostat which is inline with the lower radiator hose

My fence build experience through a contractor has been.... interesting.

One aspect of that is the sliding gate pad was built too far away for the topens gate motor I picked up

First pic showss the closest the motor can get while being on the pad, the next few show the level of offset necessary to get the motor close enough

My plan is to get a relatively large and thick steel plate, either stainless or heavily outdoor treated, and have that plate be bolted to the pad but hanging off the edge, and the gate motor is bolted to that plate, with one bolt holding both at the same time

I know this is sketchy and not ideal but HOW sketch? And are there much easier options I'm ignoring?

I know I could get the pad removed and re poured but this'll be much quicker, possibly much cheaper considering oakland labor costs, and probably just as strong as long as I get a very thick plate. This gate only takes as most 30 lbs of force to roll

(For context this is a 16ft wide metal frame and composite board gate, on a lower v track rail)

This is for a church which essentially borrows a school gym.

Every Sunday they have to set everything up and tear it all down, it takes them like two hours on each end.

I'm wondering if there's some super wireless setup to eliminate tons of cables and thus setup time

I believe its four wired mics and some guitar connections and a drum, there's already a few wireless lav mics in play too

Got one of these and thought it was DOA after putting in brand new duracell AAs and it wouldn't turn on.

Replaced it, the exact same thing happened, so I tried the AAs in the box and viola, works great now?????

I have absolutely no idea why this is the case, maybe the duracell voltage is slightly too high?

I dropped my 360 laser level and it busted the emitter's glass component even inside the metal cover

DeWalt probably doesn't sell a replacement but I wonder if there's an identical emitter on alibaba or something

this is just for the foundation, not concrete

Context; SF Bay area (oakland)

Update; JUST digging down 4" and compacting and leveling the dirt is $1600, holy crap

I was prepared for something in the mid 1000s but this is....a lot. And I'm already supplying the 24x16" pavers on top of this

For money like this I'd rather just dig it myself and use brock pavers with paver edging strips

Only thing I'm worried about is not leveling the base ground properly, since if the shed isn't level it becomes a nightmare to build

This is on a 1971 Corvette, with a Holly Street demon carburetor

In this question is also a question of is this carburetor even that dirty? Like is this even worth cleaning during the rebuild?

There's a number of what looks like plastic pieces deeper in the rebuild that I'm not super motivated to remove 20 pieces to get to, the question is can I just throw these big chunks into chem dip and call it a day? Or will the chem dip absolutely destroy anything that isn't aluminum?

Spent a disproportionate amount of time on these costumes

Edit; ended up being one of like three cosplayers in the whole theater unfortunately

Wait FOUR DAYS LEFT? SHIT

I'm trying to remix the robes of kinger from tadc into a hoodie design.

I got a few yards of this printed fabric and I'm attempting to replicate the sort of puffy hem design of the robes while still allowing for the hoodie to zip up.

Are there some sewing examples I could look at or general approaches I could do?

My first thought was sort of doubling the fabric back on itself and stuffing it with a little cotton to give it some body but idk how to make the seam invisible?

Basically, i don't know enough about sewing to ask the correct questions yet

I'm trying to remix the robes of kinger from tadc into a hoodie design.

I got a few yards of this printed fabric and I'm attempting to replicate the sort of puffy hem design of the robes while still allowing for the hoodie to zip up.

Are there some sewing examples I could look at or general approaches I could do?

My first thought was sort of doubling the fabric back on itself and stuffing it with a little cotton to give it some body but idk how to make the seam invisible?

Basically, i don't know enough about sewing to ask the correct questions yet