

Rodent identification: mouse or rat?
Hi all,
Please can this rodent be identified? Captured it on camera up on my kitchen table. I bet it’s a rat 😔
Thanks


Hi all,
Please can this rodent be identified? Captured it on camera up on my kitchen table. I bet it’s a rat 😔
Thanks
EOTS just dropped new merchandise in the webstore, but I'm confused why there isn't a cheaper shipping option for Euro/UK fans.
I wanted a t-shirt sent to me in the UK, they are charging $65.35 for the privilege. Is there a closer to home official merchandise link I'm unaware of?
Thanks!
Hi all,
I'm based in Southbourne and need to find a reputable locksmith to help repair/replace an old bedroom door lock.
The first one I contacted (with a lot of positive reviews on Checkatrade) hasn't even bothered to reply, so not the best start.
Please let me know if you've had a good experience with a local business - much appreciated!
Any advice here please. I’ve had mice activity in the kitchen/behind the gas cooker, so I purchased the Roshield vent covers and sealed them over the air bricks on the exterior wall (4 in total) as I’m sure this was the entry points for mice. There is still a higher up air brick I’d like to cover in case.
However, the vent cover PDF states:
‘Must not be used to cover air bricks or vents which are being used for the ventilation of gas appliances. Restriction or even blocking airflow can increase the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning’
I’m a bit confused by this instruction as the 4 air bricks I found were on the lower part of the external wall directly outside the kitchen, which I sealed with vent covers. I thought nothing of it, but should these air bricks not be covered and have I made a safety error here?
We have a boiler which clearly has its own ‘Ideal’ vent on the same exterior wall. Do I have nothing to worry about?
Thanks
Hi all,
I'm sure this question has been asked before. I used to have no problem recording audio with Audacity via my Windows PC. Now, my Macbook won't seem to allow it - the only host available is 'Core Audio' with Macbook microphone/speakers.
Is there a trusted tool I can download to help record the internal audio?
Thanks for any help!
Hi all,
My bedroom door has an (old) lock which has been painted over. Rather than buying a new padlock style lock to screw onto the door - do you think it's possible to first attempt making this lock somehow function again?
The lock inside the door has been painted over (first image), and the hole for the lock has been painted too (last image). I have no idea if I can chip away at the paint to possibly free the lock, buy a set of skeleton keys to try and respond to the lock, then drill a hole back into the hole which has been painted on...
Thanks for any advice!
P.S
If anyone can please help to identify what type of lock this is, how old and what key it used!
Hey all,
I used to have a PS3 and of course Skate 3. I now really want to play it again.
Rather than having to buy a beaten up second hand PS3, is there possibly any other better way in 2026 to play it? Is there a latest PS/Xbox model which will still run a Skate 3 disc?
Thanks!
Thanks for listening
Hi,
I would like to change the first part of my icloud email address, I wonder if this is possible?
Example:
from "this_bit"@icloud.com to "that_bit"@icloud.com
Or... do you basically have to delete your apple account entirely, and create a whole new one?
Thanks!
Hi all,
So I have no idea to remove these 2 glass coverings from my shower cubicle. They used to have proper sliding glass doors in front of them, but now all glass needs to be removed in place for a curtain (I’ll still use the plastic enclosure shell for hooking up the curtains).
The sheets of glass look sealed/glued in. Looks like there are rounded ‘clips’ on the inside of the enclosure. Is it possible I can remove this glass safely from the enclosure? If so, what tools please?
Thanks!
Hi all,
This is a delightful photo of my shower cubicle waste pipe. I need advice with it please.
In the past it has easily filled up/overflowed with water while the shower operates, and at the time I have poured down Mr Muscle Drain Gel which temporarily resolved it. However, it’s repeating again.
The other issue this time around is that recently I accidentally smash one of the shower doors while trying to remove them, meaning some of the glass shards made their way into the bottom of the drain/pipe. The glass itself looked like plexiglass as it didn’t smash into smithereens but more pieces.
Not knowing how to completely remove that part of the pipe, I tried my best to remove the shards by hand (or spoon). I got out a lot but I can still see some sitting there (very small pieces). I can’t exactly stick a small hoover hose inside as there’s a small puddle of water that just won’t evaporate.
My question is - can I just not necessarily worry about this and still pour down the mr muscle drain gel to hopefully help unblock the ‘original issue’? There wouldn’t be some sort of weird chemical reaction with plexiglass and it wouldn’t make the blockage worse, right?
I just really want to continue using the shower, unless the conclusion here is that a plumber will have to rectify this for the safety resolution.
Thank you
Hi all,
This photo shows the pipes from the bottom of our kitchen boiler that run behind/beneath the countertop and cabinet.
I need to fill these large gaps around the pipes, as mice keep getting through. Initially I thought steel wool was the way to go - then I removed it all as I realised that stuff is a major fire hazard!
Please could you advise what now is the safest, fire-resistant method to block these gaps around pipes? How would a trained plumber go about it?
Much appreciated.
So there’s currently a mouse (or more!) that’s found its way into my kitchen via the walls. It mainly runs around at night in the kitchen. I’m located in the UK.
I haven’t found any obvious signs of droppings or urine in the cabinets or on the floor as of yet, but one thing for sure is that I’ve seen the mice run across the countertop, and some of my belongings in the kitchen.
I’ve set some human traps with peanut butter bait on the ground which they seem to be avoiding.
My question is - how concerned should we be if house/field mice are making contact on countertops / floors / items? What are we meant to do if this happens? Is every little thing just automatically contaminated with an infection waiting to happen? It’s stressing me out!
Thank you
Hi all,
I have a load of old stuff (buckets/plant pots/broken chairs/small faulty electricals etc.) that I'd like to get to the nearest tip (I live in Southbourne), though I'm not sure if the amount would still be enough for hiring even one of those mini tips. I'm not able to drive.
Is there such a thing as a local service where someone would collect and dispose of it down the tip for you? If so, could anyone here recommend a name? A man and a van who does that kind of thing?
Obviously not someone who would just fly tip it!
Thanks!
Recently I started to hear scrambling movement behind my kitchen cabinets and oven. Then, the mouse crawled around the ground and hid again. I didn’t notice any droppings/urine around.
In a bit of a panic, I didn’t know how to capture it and I didn’t have any humane traps. I was then advised to fill a bucket with melted butter (I absolutely covered the inside with the melted butter using a paint brush), attach a ‘ladder’ (used a small pillow), and drop a bit of food inside (used cheese and peanut butter). To be honest I didn’t think it would work.
In the morning and to my suprise, the mouse was inside. It was absolutely soaked by the butter, and it was trying to hop up. Initially I just assumed it was a house mouse, but then I read that if they hop with their larger feet then it’s a field mouse?
Anyway, it was caught but I kinda felt bad how it happened. It would have been in that bucket for a few hours - it absolutely stunk or gone-off butter/cheese by the end of it. I had to get rid this unlucky mouse and dispose of the grim bucket.
It was suggested I just let it free in the garden, but I thought it would just easily get back inside? So instead, I walked to the nearest park with a sort of woodland bit - google tells me it’s roughly 0.4 miles from my house. I let it free on the woodland bit.
Then I read that mouses can easily find their way back unless you release them at least 3 miles away! The last thing I want is for this butter-soaked mouse back inside my house. I know it seems a bit cruel with the butter technique, but I had no idea what to do. I’m now aware of humane traps.
Basically, do you think it would find its way back from 0.4 miles?
Thanks for reading.
Hi again,
This is a follow up from my recent reddit post (‘is this a stop tap’) as I couldn’t add any more photos to the post. Thank you for all your advice.
I managed to open it and remove as much water I could - then I couldn’t reach any more (see photo).
There looks like a white nut thing in there - is this how I stop the water to my house? I need to stop it when the electrician arrives tomorrow to replace the electric shower.
Problem is I don’t have anything to reach down in there and turn it off! It seems really difficult for what it is?
Thanks again for any advice
Hi,
I have an electrician visiting to replace an electric shower.
The only potential stop tap I could find for the house was this (please see photo).
It’s in an odd position - just outside our back gate of the garden (which can lead out onto the nearby street). It says ‘water’ but I just couldn’t work out how to open it?
There doesn’t seem to be a stop tap under our sink or anything! Can anyone please advise as I’ll need to stop the water for the electrician?
Thanks in advance!
Hi all,
So I recently posted a question in here regarding the recommended power rating when purchasing a new electric shower. I posted a picture of the fuse board (below) - the overall advice was to stay at 7.5kW.
As I went on to seek out a qualified electrician for the installation, one reputable company viewed the photo of the fuse board and replied:
"Having reviewed the photograph of your consumer unit, the shower circuit appears to be protected by a Type AC RCD. Current regulations require a Type A RCD for shower installations due to the presence of DC residual currents that may be generated by modern electrical equipment. To supply and install a new Hager Type A RCD, our charge would be ...".
I am obviously in no way doubting their expertise on the matter as I'm no electrician, though I wanted to ask about this here (replacement of this switch is charged at a couple of hundred). Does this all sound like a standard procedure/regulation now especially concerning our fuse board? Is this fuse box quite old?
If I was to progress with this before a new electric shower, would that mean I could potentially purchase a higher rating?
Thanks again!
Hi all,
Can anyone recommend to me a window replacement company in the Bournemouth area that you may have used before with a good experience? (I’m located in Christchurch). We have a small window that needs replacing - so far the quotes I’ve received are way too expensive for the job, but I must keep searching! I’ve received quotes already from Restoration Glazing and Boyland.
Thanks for any help!
Hi,
Is it possible to find out the kW power rating here? I have an old electric shower that needs replacement - the company supplying the new shower first needs to match the power rating. The old shower has been here forever and I have no documentation! Do you think it may be behind the shower cover, or is it a scenario for the electrician to answer?
Thanks very much