SmartTag2, Moto Tag or Tile Mate/Slim or something else?

I've never lost a set of keys or wallet until recently, but I've misplaced my keys twice in the last month (found both times thankfully).

Thinking about getting some sort of tracker. Apple's out, I don't have anything else in the ecosystem. Tile was the only other brand that immediately came to mind.

I have a Samsung phone (S23). Don't plan on getting rid of it any time soon, and would probably get another Samsung when the time comes.

Looking at amazon.ca they have a Tile sale on with the Mate and Slim Card for $47.

I live in a pretty small town and don't imagine there are many other Tile devices around. Would that severely limit its usefulness? Otherwise the price is pretty appealing. I wasn't even thinking about a wallet tracker as well originally but now my interest is piqued.

The Samsung SmartTag2 is $40 although looks like it regularly goes on sale under $30.

Moto Tag 2 is $40 as well.

Surprisingly (to me) the AirTag is right there if not cheaper at $32, but again I don't have an iPhone.


Those are kind of the 3 front runners right now. Technically I guess they're all different ecosystems. I've read that Samsung is better than FMD but a lot of those reviews are old and I'm not sure if anything has changed or that holds true.

There are lots of cheaper ones such as the Ugreen, MiLi MiTag etc as well as the AliExpress specials. They have lots of good reviews and then just as many terrible reviews which makes me wonder if the good ones are paid for.

Chipolo and Pebblebee are a bit pricier for me and I've read not so nice things about both performance and the company. And they (pebblebee) don't show you the price on the website until it's in your cart which pisses me off enough to avoid them even if I was considering them.

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u/purplegreendave — 5 days ago
▲ 1 r/telus

New home build: trenching services

I'm building a new house, just started foundation work. I have Telus fiber where I currently rent, and would like to just move that service/account over if possible.

BC Hydro won't do a mid-span hookup straight to my house, so I'll need a pole in my driveway where power comes to. My meter base will be on the pole and then my electrician will run teck cable underground to the side of my house and into the mechanical room.

I'm wondering what the best course of action is for internet. Can I run a conduit alongside the electrical (separate conduit) before the trench is filled, for Telus to then come and pull fiber through?

I tried to call the 2273 number. Told me I would be on hold for 15 mins. After 1hr 15mins I gave up.

reddit.com
u/purplegreendave — 7 days ago

Is it possible for uBO to block the "Log In to use Old Reddit" requirement

Started getting this type of screen on my phone today.

I do pretty much all my mobile browsing in incognito and it's a PITA logging in just because I clicked a google link.

Is it possible for uBO to block this kind of thing?

u/purplegreendave — 11 days ago

Is Tailscale this easy or have I set up something insecure?

I don't have a crazy amount going on. I'm playing home NAS not sysadmin. Plex, *arr apps, backup my laptop docs etc.

On my old Ubuntu server I ran Traefik for a while but then after an update it stopped working and I couldn't figure out how to fix it and had to start from scratch. Tried NPM for a while, it worked but certs or wildcards or something expired... All fixable but I wanted something a bit more "set it and forget it", I'm worried about exposing my server. I've seen some horror stories of ransomware etc. Tailscale, if I understand it correctly, has less risks.

So I just tried out Tailscale and I hope this doesn't sound like a shill post but it was so easy I'm afraid I missed a crucial step and I've exposed everything in an insecure way.

-- Settings > Tailscale > Sign in

--- Signed up for a new Tailscale account using Github to log in

-- Installed the app on my phone, signed in using Github again

-- In Settings > Tailscale enabled Run as Exit Node

-- Went to console.tailscale.com/admin/machines, confirmed the exit node

-- On my phone switched to mobile data, navigated to the 100.xx.xxx.xxx IP assigned to my server on the admin panel and it went straight to my unraid login page; appended a port to the IP and boom, Sonarr login.

What have I missed? Have I left some gaping holes somewhere? Is everything exposed now or can I trust Tailscale. Is that machine IP going to constantly change? I have a domain but if I can just enter the machine IP in nzb360 then why bother faffing around.

Right now this is just for me, I would imagine things get more complicated if I want to use Jellyfin and share with others.

reddit.com
u/purplegreendave — 20 days ago
▲ 12 r/unRAID+1 crossposts

[CAN] Need a UPS

I've been putting this off for way too long but the power has gone out for 10 minutes a half dozen times this month and my unraid server is constantly dying, panicking and running parity checks.

I've run a smart plug for a little while now to see how much power I'm using. Ran it with just the server and then with a power bar for my server as well as router, modem, switch. Here's what I got:

  • Peak 130w - power comes back on, everything boots up at once including all HDDs spinning.

  • Idle (server + network gear) 110w

  • Server only idle around 80-100w

  • Server only idle with disk spin down set to 45min 60-75w

I don't know what specs I need. If I could keep the server running for 15mins, shut it down and then have the network gear (10-15w) run for another 30 min or so that would cover most of our outages.

The specs are a little confusing... If VA = Volts x Amps and Watts = Volts x Amps then it should stand to reason that VA = Watts and 250 VA is tons of headroom for what I'm using. But the common ones have 500, 1000, 1500 VA so I feel like I must be missing something.

For capacity let's just say I'm I'm using 100 W for simplicity, a 100 Wh battery should power me for an hour (minus some loss to conversions and inefficiencies). Most batteries are 12 V, so a battery with a 12 V x 9 Ah battery should give me 108 Wh?


This is a the only unit available locally, LX1500GU3-FC. It's 1500 VA, the graph at the bottom says I should get 80 mins at 100 W. It has downloads for Linux software shutdown so I assume it can talk to NUT/Unraid?

I just want to make sure my calculations/assumptions are correct before pulling the trigger. Would be open to any other buying recs, I just looked at this one because I could pick it up today. I'd like a rackmount option but it seems like they're way more expensive for no reason other than "because".

u/purplegreendave — 1 month ago

Are surge protectors a scam? Are "whole house" protectors better?

Trying to do an electrical plan for my house build and wondering about the living room/AV gear. I have had a lightning storm take out gear before... Granted it was 20+ years ago and I think it came down the phone line because IIRC it took out a modem and network card in a computer.

We will be bringing in 200A service to the house.

I've always had my stuff plugged into a "surge protected" power bar but never really considered that they actually did a whole lot or that the manufacturer would actually reimburse me.

Is it worth getting a surge protector over a power bar or are they pretty worthless?

Would it be better to get a "whole home" protector at the panel, something like this?

https://www.rona.ca/en/product/eaton-7-in-surge-protection-device-chspt2ultra-13345171

reddit.com
u/purplegreendave — 2 months ago

Is sequential write or random write more important for a camera SD card?

I have 2 SD Cards and I'm not sure if either one is meaningfully better than the other.

https://imgur.com/a/NqsWVSh

One has faster sequential write speeds, the other has faster random write speeds.

I'm assuming for video the sequential would be faster... Writing one large file. That's kind of intuitive. But if I'm shooting RAW + Fine JPEG at the fastest burst speed I can manage, would random come into play or is it still sequential?

u/purplegreendave — 2 months ago

Where can I learn some of the basics of USB cable testing?

Like anyone else I have a drawer full of old USB cables and chargers. Been meaning to sort and get rid of a few for ages, but hit breaking point last night when we plugged the Switch 2 into a charger labelled "Fast Charger", and while it had a charging icon lit up on screen, it couldn't keep up with handheld gaming and the % continued to drop, albeit slower (Must be an older standard, the writing is too faded to see but I'm assuming it's 15W). One of my power banks was the same story, and finally another power bank did the trick.

Thought I'd just buy a cheap USB tester and now I'm teetering on the edge of a really deep rabbit hole. Seems like I'd need 2x devices, a USB Tester and a USB Cable Tester. Then there's so many to choose from FNIRSI, Power-Z, Kowsi, Treedix etc etc

While reading last night I came across a few useful posts saying things like: there's two sets of D+/- but only one set should be enabled; there are power-only cables with no data pins and some devices like flashlights or BT speakers will only charge with those cables; there are cables which have X number of wires which are ok, cables with Y number of wires which are ok and cables in the wild with Z number of wires which are bad and should be thrown out. Unfortunately I lost/closed those posts and can't find them again (or hell maybe I dreamt about them after I went to bed)

So all in all, I'm sort of lost - first what should I buy, and second how tf do I use it?

reddit.com
u/purplegreendave — 2 months ago

PRINT_START with Cartographer and Nozzle Cleaning

In the never ending quest for a super reliable, fast, modded printer, I've printed a new fan shroud (SF 3x5150) and added a cartographer probe.

I am however having some issues and looking for some tips because I know I'm close and some tweaks to my PRINT_START would probably fix it.

I followed the Cartographer setup and installed the KNCM Macro. I was told that using a brass brush on the nozzle is a bad idea with a cartographer, hence the cleaning macro.

The filament I'm using right now is Tinmorry PETG-GF, Frosted Red. After doing a temp tower I'm printing at 260 first layer, 255 others.

Here's what I think is my issue: At the end of a print the nozzle oozes a bit. Then everything cools and this filament dries rock hard. So much so that on my next print, the TOUCH_HOME is thrown off by filament hitting the bed, and ultimately I get a disastrous first layer - or more often it just doesn't adhere to the bed at all and I end with spaghetti/a blob on the nozzle. At which point I'm back to square one with an even dirtier nozzle.

PRINT_START section here because it's too messy to format on reddit:

https://pastebin.com/PBJ1bjyx

reddit.com
u/purplegreendave — 2 months ago

[Canada] Cooking method for "Sirloin end/Rib end Pork Chops"

Food prices are crazy right now especially where I live in the town of Buttfuck, province of Nowhere.

Absolutely no competition for groceries, so we've taken to just buying what's on sale and figuring out what to do with it later.

Just picked up some pork chops, labelled Sirloin end/Rib end Pork Chops. I mention Canada because I know with beef some cuts are labelled differently, not sure if it's the same with pork.

Is this the sort of cut you can just grill/sear and eat? Slice and stir fry? Braise?

reddit.com
u/purplegreendave — 2 months ago

Switch 2 is not asking me for a PIN/password to make a purchase in the eShop

In user settings I've enabled Verification Method - PIN and Verification Required - Using Saved Payment Methods

https://imgur.com/01cka6p

I just made a purchase on the eShop. Game was in progress on a different player profile. Clicked the eShop icon, then clicked my player icon to say it was me using the shop. Found a game in the Deals section, clicked Confirm and boom, added to my account. It never asked me for the PIN and now my eShop funds are $20 lighter.

It's not that big a deal this time around because I opened the eShop specifically to buy that game, but it's really not good enough when there's an entire toggle in the user settings that does nothing. Far too easy to buy something and drain funds.

u/purplegreendave — 2 months ago

Moving saved/remembered contacts from web to Outlook 2016

Work converted our emails from some old legacy system to 365.

Were told we had to use webmail because office 2016 outlook wouldn't work any more. We'll not entirely true, I managed to delete/deregister my account and file and add it back as an outlook/exchange account.

It's working for send/receive but I don't have any autocomplete or suggestions in the to/cc/bcc fields (the option is enabled in settings).

In the webmail I have a few entries that are labelled "external" but they don't appear in contacts anywhere. Ones that are not labelled external also don't show up in contacts.

Is there any way to export every contact that the webmail "knows about" somehow and import it into the 2016 outlook desktop app? Or am I missing a setting somewhere?

Auto complete in webmail

Contacts in webmail

No auto complete in desktop app

u/purplegreendave — 3 months ago

Fit 4, Fit 5 GT 4 or GT 5 for first smartwatch

Looking to dip my toes into wearable world. With various promos, these 4 are all in a similar price band of $180-200 CAD on aliexpress from "Brand+" sellers.

The pro versions of the GT 5 and Fit(s) are a bit more than I want to spend right now unless there's a very, very compelling reason. I'm not sure I'll get along with a wearable at all, could decide after a week that I don't like it.

I know they're not going to run regular Play Store apps, but wondering which would be best for the following:

  • Sleep tracking

  • Spotify control (watch linked to phone, playing through BT headphones, headphones connected to phone, phone on the other side of the room)

  • Notifications (answer calls or reply to sms, phonecall on BT headphones connected to phone)

  • Maps (walking around the city, check walking directions on your wrist without pulling phone out of your pocket)

  • Hiking trails (similar to above, checking progress on trail, which turn to take where several trails are intertwined without taking phone out of pocket)

  • Altimeter ("nice to have" not "need to have", good for ski touring)

For the last two phone would/could be in my pocket either with cell service or downloaded maps.

Basically never looking to leave my phone at home, but at work I don't carry it in my pocket I leave it in my toolbox within BT range. Hiking it's usually in my backpack.

For hiking maps, where can you pull trail data from? Assuming Trailforks/Strava won't work without Play Store.

reddit.com
u/purplegreendave — 3 months ago

What flooring material(s) are suitable over a hydronic heated slab? Bonus: What's the best bang for buck option?

I have read that real hardwood floors don't like in-floor heat. Not sure how true or not that is, wondering if there's a mat or something to go between the slab and wood so they behave well together?

What other flooring materials are compatible with/on top of a heated concrete slab?

And in 2026, what is the best bang for buck material in terms of looking/feeling nice, wearing well (cats, no kids), spill resistant (kitchen/bathroom) and I guess bonus points for DIY install.

I've done laminate floor and wall tile before, never tried floor tile but I'm assuming it's not much harder than wall tile.

reddit.com
u/purplegreendave — 3 months ago

Sorry this ended up being an essay - I have a bad habit of waffling when I try to explain myself. The TLDR would be... In a small living space I feel like .4 atmos wouldn't work. If I were to go .2 instead, where should the speakers be placed?

We're building a house this summer and amongst the stress of planning everything else I'm allowing myself a little dreaming time for my surround sound setup.

The property is fairly small, the house is fairly small and the living space is... you guessed it... fairly small. It's also open-plan from the living room to the dining room/kitchen/stairs/entryway. Not the home theater some users on here would dream of, many compromises will be made, but at the end of the day I'll be happy to have a better setup than I have now where I'm renting or the average Joe on the street.

The space/setup will be used for a bit of everything - TV/movies obviously, music and video games (where arguably I enjoy the benefits of surround sound as much if not more than most movies).

Floor Plan

The wall shown dividing living/dining is a half height pony wall, which we may not end up doing, but it shows where I'm picturing the couch going. TV Stand of course opposite the couch, on the bottom wall to the right of the wood stove in the picture.

Starting with compromise #1 - I'm not going to get a 110-120* angle on the surrounds. Realistically we're going to land on 90-95*, and maybe an in-wall (eg something along the lines of a Paradigm CI Home H65-IW v2.)

L/R - while I like the aesthetic of towers, we might be coming along to compromise #2 with some sort of bookshelf. I'll prioritise timbre matching the center at least.

Sub will be compromise #3 - it's probably going in that bottom right corner in the picture, sub crawl be dammed that's the only space in the room. Maybe I will be able to add a bass shaker or a small in-wall sub and make it compromise #2-1/2.

Room treatment, I mean it is what it is. It's an open plan space, not a lot of options for wall treatments. Maybe a rug if we're lucky. Will probably go with some sort of built-in/bookcase/shelving on that left wall of the living space, as well as the top wall of the dining area.

So onto the big question - is it worth me installing .2 or .4 atmos in this space? The Dolby docs suggest ear height is about 47"... Must depend on the couch because I estimate mine is currently around 36". Lets say 42" for arguments sake. With a 9 foot ceiling and a 45* angle that puts the atmos speakers 66" forward/back from the couch.

For the front 2, that's somewhere in the ballpark of 1/2 way between the couch and the TV which doesn't seem crazy. Maybe that's even ideal?

For the rear 2, that's sort of over the kitchen island/dining table. It's also where the space massively (relative to the living room) opens up making room treatment even more challenging. Lastly it probably would be weird/unpleasant if anyone is in the kitchen or dining room while another person is enjoying media in the living room.

So at this point I'm thinking that .4 doesn't really make sense for the space - although I'm happy to be convinced otherwise. So if .4 isn't happening, is it worth it to do .2 anyway? If I go with some sort of .2,would it be better best to do:

  • Front heights: On the same wall as LCR

  • Top Front: 45* forward of couch

  • Top Middle: Directly above couch

The Dolby doc seems to suggest that in a .2 setup that the atmos speakers should essentially go above the couch. I'm a little concerned that there would be a mental disconnect in separation if you're watching the TV and an object is panning from the front to the overheads and it would "jump" to aggressively, vs the 45* option which would be a smoother pan.

This is the Dolby doc I've been referencing - maybe there's a newer one that I haven't seen which clears things up but this is the best I found:

https://www.dolby.com/siteassets/technologies/dolby-atmos/atmos-installation-guidelines-121318_r3.1.pdf

u/purplegreendave — 4 months ago