u/Complex_Solutions_20

Is it normal to receive a surprise bill 4-5 months after something was delivered for duties PLUS additional fees for "disbursement" on top of the cost?

A couple weeks ago I got a suspicious text and email saying I owed something on it, but searching for the tracking number, my email address (which the bill was sent to) and my phone number (which the bill was sent to) the FedEx website claimed there was nothing found associated with my package and no invoices due associated with my phone/email - so I assumed it was fraud.

Now I just received a bill in the mail for it...and very confused. And the mailed bill seems to say not only is there duties but a $15 "disbursement" fee on top of it - so that's pushing my order up by another $60 or so that I was not expecting...and being so many months later I can't do anything because the product is well past the return time even though this bumps the cost up enough I would have reconsidered purchasing to begin with.

Can someone explain how this happens - and if there's any option to dispute/challenge it given they waited such an egregious amount of time to disclose it in spite of having my contact information and my having a FedEx account but they still failed to notify me of this sooner?

This is the first time I've ever had anything like this happen. I've had international stuff that has an import tax but its always been billed either as its en-route or upon arrival - not almost half a year later?!

Unfortunately seems like the FedEx offices aren't open being a holiday weekend so I can't even contact them right now - but hoping someone here has been thru this before?

I know there's the 1500W 120V plug in the cabin (which I have tested in my Limited) - but does anyone know if a V2L adapter can work on the NACS port?

That could be a lot more convenient than leaving the hatch open while powering something outside the car for an extended time.

I'm almost curious enough to order something to test it but hoped someone here may already own a V2L adapter and be able to say whether it works.

Anyone have a manual for the Fios TV One Mini (IPC 4100) set top boxes?

I don't mean the worthless setup guide - I need something useful that says what the heck the flashing yellow light and no signs of life after the first setup screen means, explains the other ports, etc.

Have to say this "must upgrade old DCT700" is the worst done tech thing I have ever seen, very aggravating. Not only does it have different incompatible outputs for their TV but there seems to be zero documentation. And now that I finally got an RF modulator the picture quality is MUCH worse than the old DCT700 for the initial menu when it was showing something.

Last weekend did my first road trip in my EV - and I am very puzzled by something I saw while charging.

According to Electrify America's "how to use" site, "Though there are two connectors on select Electrify America chargers, only one connector can be used at a time."

But many of the units seemed to have two CCS handles - but why? If only 1 can be used at a time, what is the point of 2 of the same plug?

Does anyone know how the (Subaru) Tesla Supercharger "congestion fees" work with plug and charge?

Their site just says "If you meet the criteria for a congestion fee during your Supercharging session, you will be notified on the vehicle touchscreen and from the Tesla app that congestion fees apply."

I've had horrible luck with the Tesla app not working properly (stuck at initializing or searching for the stations) but once I got plug-and-charge set up thru the Subaru app it "just works". I'm unclear how (or if?) I would know that any such fees apply.

I'm going to be taking the first EV trip this weekend and visiting a friend where I'm going to have to charge up basically 100% before I arrive in order to make the around-town and return trip work out because there's a long stretch with no charging but it'll be rough trying to charge as I leave without time to precondition. I know this trip usually needed at least 2 fill-ups over a weekend with my gas Outback so I expect "worse" for charging.

Somehow nomater what I do trying to plan routes on the website it now says they can't be done...even going 5-10 miles down the road with 80% start charge.

I don't see anything that stands out as a problem - is there some way to "wipe and revert" my settings to start with a clean slate?

https://preview.redd.it/6lkr6nrn35jh1.png?width=494&format=png&auto=webp&s=b540dc8f6cdff7403f1df8667fafa36b74d0bd20

https://preview.redd.it/w9f7f4a2z5hh1.png?width=1125&format=png&auto=webp&s=7428a062f1c918154fd3ae8f521af0ee0d0503f5

Location: Virginia, USA

I'm trying to trade up to a new car at a dealership, the salesperson is saying I need some kind of letter or proof from a bank saying my car is paid off? They say just having the title with no lean listed isn't good enough that I should have kept the last statement or payoff letter even though that was like 5+ years ago?

The bank it was originally financed thru I haven't had any accounts for more than 5 years with so their staff say there's nothing that can be done on their side to prove a negative...so I'm a bit lost.

Seems like most EVSEs have absurdly short cords - since garage outlets get mounted a foot or so above the foundation that extends a couple feet off the ground you immediately lose ~3ft getting from the plug to the floor, then have the distance of whatever shelving/mowers/walkway between the wall and where the car can be parked eats another 3-6 feet (depending on location), and now you've lost nearly half of the ~20ft that most cords give you BEFORE you have to run around to the port on the car which might have to be between the 2 cars parked in a multi-car garage.

Can't move the outlets closer because they have to be mounted to a wall or whatever, not floating in the middle of the garage unsupported.

I'd prefer not to use an extension cord, that seems higher risk of extra connections to get damaged and create more failure points for a hazard to develop vs an uninterrupted cable run (which ideally could be retracted or looped onto a shelf/hanger to keep safe when not in use).

This is especially problematic if visiting someone and having to do L1 charging since most garages have exactly 1 outlet at the very front center and has to run over top of whatever storage stuff down to the floor and across to the parking bay, or even worse if you have to park in the driveway outside of the house of whoever you're visiting and its like 28ft from the outlet to the garage door seal in a dead-straight-line.

I saw some I'd been eying on Amazon that offered 30-40ft cords but they seem to mostly be sold out now (at least for NACS connector type ones).

What do people do to overcome the crazy short cords?

Been reading as I expect to get my car Monday...I'm absolutely struggling to figure out compatible dongles.

I know its bad to get random no-name ones - I've had cars bricked where they had to be towed to a dealer by those in the past.

Currently I have an OBDLink MX and my partner has an OBDLink LX, I know the OBDLink dongles are reliable and don't break the vehicle systems or cause fault codes like so many ELM327 clones on the market do.

Problem is...the "compatibility list" I see people link is not a list, it just says "use BLE". But only the random no-name dongles throw BLE in the listings, the actual name brands just say Bluetooth (if that) without specifying which kind of bluetooth.

I'm also a bit confused why that matters at all - since it all "just works" with other apps like Torque Pro without absurd requirements that ought to be abstracted by the operating system.

Is there any actual compatibility list?

As I wait for my car, been hunting for information about them. Just stumbled onto this from NHTSA (apparently not many are reported?) talks about suspected causes and how to diagnose

One of my friends is wanting some small D&D type mini models, I figured it sounds like a fun challenge to push limits of my new X2D.

I've never tried small finely-detailed stuff before, and these STLs were generated by them so I don't have a good option of "re-design it for easier printing". My first attempt simply turning on support didn't go well, the support trees seemed to break along the branches part way thru causing spaghetti failures.

I'm printing with ABS main material and HIPS support interface, which I've had exceptional success on my regular prints tho most of what I've done has been mechanical type stuff. Using 0.2mm stainless nozzle and 0.12mm layer heights (which look best in my benchy tests for fine detail, minimal layers, best overhang/bridging)

What are some good things to tweak in order to improve the success rate for highly detailed very small models - like miniature humanoid-style characters carrying swords and similar?

The right hinge on my Dell Inspiron 15 7506 Black 2-in-1 seems to have failed inside the lid assembly and now flops up and down.

I'm struggling to find any information on how to take the display panel apart, or even find part numbers for replacement parts. I've repaired many laptops in the past, but always have had access to either a service manual or other guide which lays out the parts diagram, parts list, and assembly sequence so I can heat/pry, pull the correct places, etc to not shatter the LCD or touch-panel.

Does anyone have suggestions?

Just ran out of my Hatchbox ABS filament and figured I'd break out the first spool of Bambu ABS to try.

I just tried slicing the same exact print (a knob for a power-tool) that took 58 minutes with generic ABS on the same 0.6mm nozzle and tried running it with the Bambu filament to compare...says it will take 1h 51m with the Bambu ABS

Anyone know why its so much slower for the Bambu filament vs Generic?

We don't eat out a ton - but went recently with a friend. Seemed like they were really stingy on breadsticks, got 3 at first which we finished very quickly with the salad, then had to wait quite a while for 2 more which lasted like all of 30 seconds to eat mine when they finally showed up half way theu the main cour and seemed like they didn't want to come ask if we wanted anything to get more (I really wanted more, I could down a half dozen easily with my meal but my friend hadn't finished theirs so I guess that precludes more?)

Used to be if you mentioned you knew you'd need more early on they would be able to get them going so it wasn't such a long wait vs having to run out and THEN wait for someone to come ask later if you want more only after all were gone.

Is this a new policy or just a location being stingy?