As you all suggested, I installed 4 4” lights with a dimmer. Warmth even changes depending on how bright they are. Plus I put in a fancy switch with night mode. Very satisfying side project 💯
I’m adding some recessed lighting to this 13’ x 13’ bedroom. I’m trying to determine if I need four lights or just two. Currently I’m thinking two because lighting wouldn’t be directly above the person laying in bed nor above the TV not on the left side wall. But four would be more thorough. Which do you guys think is better?
…to tighten up my style. r/mensfashion mostly average guys looking for tips rather than style posts. r/streetwear is a great example of inspirational but I’m looking for more of a sophisticated style. TIA
…to tighten up my style. r/mensfashion mostly average guys looking for tips rather than style posts. r/streetwear is a great example of inspirational but I’m looking for more of a sophisticated style. TIA
I was riding through downtown on my way home tonight and noticed this guy glued to his phone at a stoplight. Well that’s not great but I figured he’d pay attention once the light changes.
The light turns green and we’re going. I look over my shoulder and see that he’s still absolutely glued to his phone. It’s in landscape playing some video.
So now we’ve pulled up to the next red light and I’m gonna drop a hint. So I roll up next to his window and lean in about 2 feet away from his head. You guys, the outside world does not exist to this person. So for 30 seconds we’re watching the Big Lebowski together. That scene where the Dude having a trippy dream.
The light turns green and I jump ahead to give him the eyes on the road finger gesture before rolling off. Man that kid is a rolling hazard but at least I got some entertainment out of it 😄
Hey all, i’m in the midst of running an HVAC return duct. The house is 100 years old and the HVAC system was retrofitted so this project routes the upstairs return opening from the guest room to the top of the hallway stairs.
So far I’ve put all the pieces together for execution but the one remaining item is figuring out how to build in a clean and flush opening where the duct will end. The current plan is to cut out the top 2 feet of plaster and lath then replace that with a cut to fit drywall panel. The 8 x 16“ square duct will be trimmed to match the angle of the opening. But I need to make sure that there are no clumsy gaps between the sheet metal and drywall and that I can securely mount a return grille. Any advice is really helpful!
Pic for attention. The Z’s are around 20 years old now. While several parts have probably failed and been replaced over the years there are probably a lot that are still original. Are you experiencing cracked hoses, brittle plastic parts, hydraulic leaks, suspension or fuel delivery failures? Is there anything you wish Nissan could or should have done differently? I’m just posting this out of curiosity.
I bought a bottle of Bulleit Bourbon back in 2018. It was the tattoo edition and has some nice artwork printed into the bottle. So I refill it rather than keeping standard bottles when I buy more. Overtime the label has started to peel in places and it hides some of the artwork so I’m debating whether or not to remove it altogether. What do you guys think?
I posted a video here recently of this guy catching a rat. Today I heard what sounded like a fight in the backyard. And there should NOT be anything to fight in the backyard. So I rushed out and he’s half under the shed giving someone the business. After pulling the dog back inside I went back to find a raccoon looking at me in an absolute daze. Thankfully no blood was drawn from either. But now the backyard is off-limits until I can make sure our visitor’s left. Oh boy.
I’m looking at places to get a valve adjustment done and have been told that Warhorse in Harrisburg services Aprilias. Has anyone had any experience with these guys? TIA
Did a coolant flush last year and I guess turned the black part of the drain plug too much or something because it started leaking. So I ordered a replacement. This time I put it in and was careful not to make the same mistake. But it seems that this time I didn’t tighten it enough because the dumb thing unscrewed itself somehow and popped out. I swear this is the dumbest freaking radiator design. It’s over complicated and too easy to break.
I had to say goodbye to my Z after it got rear ended a couple of years ago. Since then I picked up a BMW E90. Figured, after 10 years of a stick shift coupe as my daily I would be OK with something a little more civilized. Well guys, the car is a year newer and has half the miles of the Z. But it’s over complicated and things break so fast that I can’t keep up. Jesus I miss Japanese engineering lol maybe I’ll find myself a G37 next.
So I just dropped 140 bucks paying a highway speeding camera ticket. Yikes. My current tail tidy is an R&G which has the plate below the tail light. I like the look just fine but I suspect the ones mounted under the subframe above the wheel facing it a downward angle would be a little more covert. And if it’s more difficult for cameras to catch it that would pay for itself. What are your thoughts?
I heard some commotion behind the shed and found this murder bot at work. I had to clean blood off of his face!! it does look like he got a little bite on the side of his snout though. He’s got all of his shots but I think I might call the Vet in the morning. I gave him some good scratches though. Shiba taps his hunting roots!
I just replaced a leaky fuel sending unit which as usual required disconnecting the fuel pump from the regulator in order to run the new hose. The car ran fine prior to this job but strangely the fuel pump won’t prime now.
Having done some research I pulled everything to make sure all hoses and plugs are correctly situated. I also added 6 gallons of gas to ensure that the pump is submerged. All fuses have been checked and are good. So I pulled codes and got the one shown above. I also had the pump do a test prime and it runs normally. So at this point I’m starting to run out of ideas. When trying to fire the car up I consistently get momentary ignition before it dies. One thing I did notice is that it took a fair amount of effort to fit the pressurized hose into the new sending unit but I can’t see how that could cause a blockage. The replacement fuel sending unit is from Uro Parts. Any ideas for what to look at next?
Next on the laundry list is the fuel sending unit. It’s all back together but because I did it with almost an empty tank I’ve gotta walk to the gas station with a fuel can to get enough in there for it to prime. Silly problem but not a bad job. And I’m thrilled that the car no longer smells like gas.
Hey fellas, it’s time for a valve adjustment and lord knows I’m not doing that job myself. I’m trying to find a trustworthy shop that can do the job in Maryland. It’s difficult enough to find in a shop to begin with so I’m hoping the community might have a suggestion. I’m far from La Moto and their service shop is backed up to begin with. TIA
As I’m getting tools and ordering parts to fix the next on a laundry list of things to address on the car, I note how many things I’ve fixed that have never failed on any non bmw I’ve owned. Next will be the fuel sending unit to get rid of that “gasoline smell” because of fine cracks in the housing. I drove an 05 350Z for 10 years and it didn’t have half of the issues I’ve experienced here.
Much of this is due to a combination of short lifespan plastics and over engineering. BMW develops an intricately designed car full of precision parts with hoses, flanges, covers and more, all built with a plastic that degrades faster than any Japanese car of the same age with greater collateral effects. It’s such a perfect storm of parts and labor that it’s arguably conspiratorial. I’m aware that I’m not the first person to come to this conclusion. But man, a thing as simple as more robust plastic being used would make these cars notably more reliable.
I replaced my suspension a few weeks ago and have since reinspected everything I worked on to make sure they’re nice and tight. The problem I’m running into is that the new hardware holding the upper assembly together isn’t quite fully tightened which results in an annoying rattle while driving over bumps. I noted that the new nut is larger than the old nut. Detaching the shock from the frame makes no difference as the well that the nut is in is part of the assembly. I tried to find a spark plug deep socket that I could grip with a wrench while holding the Allen key in but no one makes a 22 mm. So the best I’ve done so far is to hold the nut with pliers while I crank the Allen key. Still, that’s not quite enough. For those who have done this job, how did you tighten the new nut?