u/Runningmad45

Hey everyone,

Looking for some perspective from the community on ownership costs and reliability as my factory warranty wraps up.

I have a 2023 Macan GTS with roughly 21,000 miles. Factory warranty expires next month (November). Maintenance-wise, the car had its Year 3 service done slightly late in May because I was overseas for six months, but everything was completed thoroughly and it runs flawlessly with zero issues to date. The only nagging symptom is a low-speed brake squeak that started about two years ago and has gotten progressively louder/more frequent recently. The dealer service department inspected them during visits and claimed nothing is mechanically wrong or worn out.

Dropping several thousand dollars upfront on an extended warranty (Porsche Platinum or third-party like Fidelity) right now isn't ideal for my cash flow, but I want to avoid getting blindsided by a catastrophic repair down the road.

For those who’ve lived with the 2.9L twin-turbo V6 past the warranty mark:

1. Common failure points: What are the actual big-ticket items likely to fail between 25k and 50k miles on this generation? (e.g., air suspension, transfer case, coolant pipes, PDK mechatronics?)

2. The brake squeak: Is this just characteristic high-performance pad vibration / brake dust buildup (especially if PSCB), or something an indie shop can remedy with chamfering/anti-squeal shims?

3. Warranty vs. Independent Shop: Did you opt for an extended warranty, or did you stick to a solid indie specialist and keep a maintenance reserve fund?

4. Pre-expiry inspection: Is booking an independent pre-expiry inspection worth it to catch anything Porsche will still cover under warranty before November?

Appreciate any insight or real-world experiences

Hi,

I have a 2016 Cervélo C5 with a Dura-Ace Di2 groupset, and I seem to have lost the rear derailleur after washing the bike this morning.

I initially cleaned the drivetrain, keeping water to a minimum, then dried and relubricated it. I took the bike for a short ride to cycle through the gears and everything was working perfectly.

When I got back, I used Muc-Off bike cleaner on the rest of the bike, let it sit briefly, gave the bike a light wipe, and then gently rinsed it with a low-pressure hose.

Afterwards, when I went to lube the drivetrain again, the rear derailleur was completely unresponsive.

So far I have:

• Fully charged the Di2 system.
• Disconnected the cable from the rear derailleur, dried the connection and reconnected it.
• Removed the seatpost and used a hairdryer on low heat to help dry the inside of the frame.
• Removed the rubber plug at the bottom of the frame and tried to dry both the internal battery area and the junction box/wiring at the bottom of the seat tube.

Still nothing from the rear derailleur.

Given that it was shifting perfectly immediately before the final wash, I'm assuming water has found its way into a Di2 connection somewhere.

Has anyone experienced this with this generation of Dura-Ace Di2? Any suggestions for what I should check next, or should I simply leave everything disconnected and let it dry thoroughly before doing anything else?

Thanks!