I'm 11 months in on a 26 iX45. The most recent software update indicated a fix to the battery SoH reading. For me it showed a SoH of 94.5%. I've put 9,500 miles on it and use a L2 home charger keeping charge range typically between 30% and 80%. I would have expected bit higher SoH? Does this seem normal?
Been getting "I'm sorry, I'm having trouble responding to requests right now. Let's try this again in a bit." for past 6 hours. Is it Copilot or me?
My daughter inherited my 2017 RDX. I had taken good care of it with recommended maintenance and repairs, and have continued same in her ownership. I've been receiving promotional literature for repair warranty purchase from my dealer, from whom I've purchased or leased 6 or so vehicles over the past 25 years, so a good relationship with the service folks, though ownership has changed several times over the past 10 y ears or so. Most recently its become part of a group that has upwards of 30 area dealerships in the region. All that said because I just learned that the automotive warranty they are offering is essentially self insured.
I've heard horror stories about such warranties, but given it's essentially a self-insured type policy, should I feel better about the coverage cost when considering my RDX's age and mileage? I've never purchased a policy like this...is there anything I should watch out for? Alternatively, I could pocket the money, use for repairs and maintenance as needed.
Away setting at 76 but actual at 84. Any ideas why?
I have outdoor steps going down to my basements egress door in my 60 year old home. The bottom center drain has been out of commission for years but I have a french drain (I believe that's the correct term) going underneath door sill and to sump pit. Pit has two sump pumps in pit, one electric and the other powered by water pressure. The bottom edge of the drain is about an inch above the currently gunked up cement floor of the steps. I think if I clean it up and pour self leveling concrete/cement up just past the bottom edge of the drain it will allow most future water to drain into the sump. If I can somehow create an angle in the pour toward the drain all the better. Appreciate any thoughts.
Had a Bosch Heatpump installed with an Ecobee thermostat. Humidity had been an issue initially but with basement duct sealing mitigation the humidity has improved slightly. But now I'm wondering if the Fan setting - minimum minutes per hours would help as well. Live in the northeast.
This blanket has been sitting in my basement. I misjudged blanket orientation out of the box and had to jury-rig two pieces.
Not sure why, I don't believe they've flashed, while driving, in the 6 months since I got the car. Lights flash red every 10 seconds, roughly. 26 iX45. Any thoughts?
I assume this is some sort of phishing or scam attempt, but appreciate any feedback...
Cousin just told me I need to have the Romex or individual H/N/G 12 gauge wires in a metal conduit between outlets. Water pipes all around with sink a few feet below the PEX. Do I?
I’m looking for some input from HVAC pros or homeowners who’ve dealt with similar setups. Saying this up front, I know some here will say run the AC till it dies, but I’m looking to replace the AC now to avoid the possible physical and spousal emotional heat should it fail this summer.
House:
WE are in a ~2,100 sq ft, 60‑year‑old two‑story colonial in PA. Basement + first floor cool well, but the second floor consistently runs hotter in summer and colder in the winter. The first and second floors are the primary living spaces and add up to about 1,850 sq ft cooled by a 30 year old, 3.5 ton AC compressor installed by Sears/Kenmore and made by Inter City Products, now ICP? Our Rheem gas furnace is about 7 years old, so don’t really want to change that. CoPilot tells me the 2^(nd) floor circulation issues are “classic stratification + older duct design”. We have multiple returns on both floors — some fully ducted, some wall cavity returns (mostly upstairs).2^(nd) floor BR doors closed at night make things worse.
Whole‑house fan:
We have 15 year old whole‑house fan on a switch that pulls air out of the attic, but it only works well if we literally stuff socks in the dropdown attic stair opening to get better air flow. I’ve been looking at the newer ducted/insulated designs that pull from a ceiling grille instead of relying on the stair opening.
I run an EcoFlow Delta Pro Ultra setup, so I need whatever HVAC I choose to stay under ~30A startup/running current. Inverter systems or single‑stage units with an already-purchased soft‑start are both on the table.
Following are the options I’m considering…
1. Bosch IDS 3‑ton inverter heat pump (I’ve been offered a great price)
This seems like the best match for my EcoFlow setup since the Bosch inverter has low startup current and modulates well. My only concern is that the 2nd floor may still lag because of duct limitations, though I wonder if a good thermostat, like the Ecobee Premium with its second sensor on the second floor, may help.
2. Single‑stage AC + Micro‑Air soft start
Cheaper upfront and soft‑start should keep the inrush current low enough for EcoFlow. But AI tells me that single‑stage systems don’t handle humidity or airflow imbalances as well.
3. Add a 2nd‑floor mini‑split (likely a 9k BTU ceiling cassette)
This is the option I think is most viable solution. A small inverter mini‑split upstairs would directly handle the 2nd‑floor heat load well. From what I understand, it should run independently and not “fight” the Ecobee or the main system. Seems like the cleanest fix for the upstairs comfort issue.
4. Replace the whole‑house fan with a modern ducted/insulated model
This would help with nighttime cooling and attic heat, but I’m not sure it would solve the daytime 2nd‑floor heat the way a mini‑split would.
Current Thinking
Right now I’m leaning toward Bosch IDS + a 9k cassette mini‑split on the 2nd floor, with Ecobee Premium + SmartSensor managing the Bosch only. The mini‑split would handle the upstairs peak load and closed‑door bedrooms, and the Bosch would take care of the rest of the house.
But I’m also open to the idea of single‑stage + soft start + mini‑split (or just first try the single stage to see how it does) if the price difference is big enough, since the mini‑split would be doing the heavy lifting upstairs anyway.
I’d appreciate any feedback
Appreciate any insight from people who’ve been down this road.
So in my retirement I've gotten into EV's (bought a BMW iX) and home generator systems. Thankfully the car is good, but the Ecoflow DPU x 2 and SHP2 purchased from Costco has caused severe heartburn. On installation of the SHP2 the electrician found that my 200 amp main panel has taken on water, of all things, coming down the vertical conduit from the lines coming to the house, taking me from $1K SHP2 install to $5K for the added 200 amp main panel replacement. At least I get an outside shutoff with my replaced meter. The I started getting relay fault errors in the SHP2. After weeks of back and forth with Ecoflow support, I now have a replacement SHP2 sitting at the top of my basement steps pending Ecoflow's installer to schedule a visit to replace. Several circuits have been out, but I had finally gotten back to all circuits energized for several weeks until I decided to mess with it's scheduling, and now I have several circuits unenergized, including some circuits that aren't connected to the SHP2 subpanel. My wife is ready to kill me and if I didn't have a replacement SHP2 ready for install I'd sink another $$$($?) to have it all ripped out and return it to Costco. AI tells me that faulty relays or related SHP2 issues can effect circuits on the main panel. Anyone else out there experience this??
After 5 months of flawless wifi connectivity with My Emporia Classic charger I can't get it connected. Anyone else having similar issues?
I have the EcoFlow Delta Pro Ultra, Smart Home Panel 2 and two batteries. My WIFI system (ONT and router) are on one of my supported circuits setup on my EcoFlow system SHP2. When it is on a TOU (none EPS) setting, there is the up to 5 second switching time between charging and discharging states. This causes Wi-Fi disconnection and reset, and reconnecting back to the DPU/SHP2 is unpredictable. As a workaround to maintain Wi-Fi coverage in the event of an outage, I'm thinking I can get a small, inexpensive UPS to support, something in the $35 to $50 range. Just enough power to get my WIFI past that 5 second transition. Is this feasible?
How many of you have your single-stage central AC compressor on you SHP2 panel? Do you use a hard or soft start device to suppress inrush? If known, what is your inrush current that still works with the SHP2?
My AC inrush tripped my SHP2.
Green indicators from inside the Flex tells me it is powered and properly installed on my 25-year-old central AC compressor.
Unfortunately, I cannot connect it to the Micre-Air app on my newer with up-to-date OS android phone. Bluetooth is turned on.
The app shows temporary connection in the “log” at the bottom of the screen, then shows “disconnect”, and then “connect” bar/button is greyed out. This screen also asks for a Bluetooth ID. li I’ve also removed and reinstalled the app, did the same and restarted my phone in between. I also Further, in by phone’s Bluetooth available connections, I see the EasyStart. When I attempt to connect to it prompts for an Micro-Air PIN.
Anyone out there experience this? Micro-Air support is not helpful.
