u/idahokj

This’ll be my first diesel. Looking at getting a 2020+ Duramax. I know diesels like to work and they need to be up to temperature before turning them back off (I know short trips are bad on them). I’ll work it heavy towing hopefully about once a month for a weekend usually, but mostly it’ll be a commuter which I know diesels like also.

I just want to pull my dads big trailer myself instead of using my dad’s truck when we want to go camping, playing, ect. lol his trailer are an available for me to use any time, but coordinating his truck is the tricky part.

I have to drive 26 miles to work each day, and 18 miles of that is highway driving, and then the other 8 miles are going through town stopping at stop lights when I get stopped. It takes 30-35 minutes to get to work. The speed limit is 65-70 mph on the highway, but if I drop my speed down to 60mph the whole time during my 18mile highway section commute, 1-for better mpg and 2- it’s early morning and late evening with very low traffic in my area so going slower than the speed limit isn’t going to make anyone upset, is that going to still keep the engine hot and let it regen properly, or cause any issues?? Would just driving the 70mph on the highway “work the truck more” by using more fuel? I’ve been doing it for years. I know the duramax will get “good mpg” going 60mph.

However a new concern of mine is someone mentioned re-generating the engine would happy more at lower speed and not working the truck by pulling heavy daily?

Wouldnt the highway section and the total time the trucks on/driving help my case out more to keep the engine emissions cleaned out for the most part?

I know that’s long. Hope the quick read makes sense!

Thanks!

This is a long one… lol

From: Sandy Utah to Butte Montana (so you can guess the weather where I’m at mostly).

Vehicle:Buick EnvisionAWD/Chevy Equinox AWD: we’ll say “small SUV.”

When big snow storms hit, we drive the truck with great tires. The Small SUV has the stock tires (highway tires) on now and was fine last winter (crappy snow/moisture winter). We also have AWD but mostly it’s just a few in-town trips in the winter when the roads aren’t plowed yet. Other than that it’s just on plowed, slushy, wet roads. We didn’t need to use the AWD setting even once last year and we were just fine in well below 0°F temps but roads were mostly dry with the stock continental tires last winter. It’s the first time I drove without all weather tires in many decades.

MPG is important for me but still want to be safe.

I fully understand the importance of good tires but we maybe avg 300 miles at most a month in the winter months because we drive the truck and only the small suv when the roads are somewhat decent unless a random storm catches us. This is the summer vehicle mostly and commuter in the summer.

I’ve had two sets of Nokian wrg4s and a set of the WRG5 already. A few other All weather tires over the years and have just run them 100% of the time but this year with the new vehicle I’m debating getting the Nokian ONE over the WRG5 this time for longer lasting tread and better MPG for the 90% highway driving that this vehicle sees.

All this to ask, by going slow, and driving safe the Nokian ONEs should do the trick for our needs right? The WRG5s are quite a bit more money also… I know those are great but what say all you experts?!

Thanks!

This is a long one… lol

From: Sandy Utah to Butte Montana (so you can guess the weather where I’m at mostly).

Vehicle:Buick EnvisionAWD/Chevy Equinox AWD: we’ll say “small SUV.”

When big snow storms hit, we drive the truck with great tires. The Small SUV has the stock tires (highway tires) on now and was fine last winter (crappy snow/moisture winter). We also have AWD but mostly it’s just a few in-town trips in the winter when the roads aren’t plowed yet. Other than that it’s just on plowed, slushy, wet roads. We didn’t need to use the AWD setting even once last year and we were just fine in well below 0°F temps but roads were mostly dry with the stock continental tires last winter. It’s the first time I drove without all weather tires in many decades.

MPG is important for me but still want to be safe.

I fully understand the importance of good tires but we maybe avg 300 miles at most a month in the winter months because we drive the truck and only the small suv when the roads are somewhat decent unless a random storm catches us. This is the summer vehicle mostly and commuter in the summer.

I’ve had two sets of Nokian wrg4s and a set of the WRG5 already. A few other All weather tires over the years and have just run them 100% of the time but this year with the new vehicle I’m debating getting the Nokian ONE over the WRG5 this time for longer lasting tread and better MPG for the 90% highway driving that this vehicle sees.

All this to ask, by going slow, and driving safe the Nokian ONEs should do the trick for our needs right? The WRG5s are quite a bit more money also… I know those are great but what say all you experts?!

Thanks!

L5P here.

Who here uses a bigger than stock sized oil filter? I know you need to move the fuel coolant pump, but by doing that and running a larger filter it should help the engine last longer and filter way better. But will that set off any engine light? Cause pressure issues due to more space? Does anything need to be done to accept the bigger filter other than just move the pump to make room?

Thanks!

Diesel vs Gas

I’ve peen putting off getting a diesel for a while now even though it would be helpful every time I pull the trailer.

I use a 2500 gasser right now but going up to the mountains pulling the 13k enclosed trailer, 12k-ish camper and a 16k tractor from the valley at 4800’ elevation to just over 6700’ elevation to my uncles cabin we use regularly an hour away a diesel would be ideal. We do that trip every other weekend. All year round. Pulling rzrs to boats to snowmobiles…. All the other days it would be my commuter 26 miles each way to and from work daily. That trip has 18miles on the highway (70mph) and its total just over 50miles each day for work. That distance should let it regen and get hot but I’m not sure?

My dad’s 3500 LML Duramax pulls those things without breaking a sweat. Mine doesn’t… and I don’t have an engine brake either which would be nice.

My dads is deleted and he’s never had any issues with his truck BUT everyone on forms, and other pages where the the debate is at people say not to get a diesel due to the “expensive” repairs that come with diesels vs gas.

How often are diesels needing repairs and expensive maintenance compared to gassers?

That’s what’s holding me back. People make it sound like the diesel will be in the shop literally 50% of its life before it’s not if it’s when it breaks down and then other problems follow. But how often is that?

If I put good fuel in it? Regular oil changes and fuel filter changes, what other maintenance is needed regularly? And what is the reality of the truck being in the shop costing \~$3-8 grand for repairs regularly??

Only time my dad’s been in the shop for non maintenance is for the delete but I’m going to keep mine stock if I get one.

I’d bee looking at any of the years L5P Silverado 6.6 Duramaxs

Thanks!

I’ve peen putting off getting a diesel for a while now even though it would be helpful every time I pull the trailer.

I use a 2500 gasser right now but going up to the mountains pulling the 13k enclosed trailer, 12k-ish camper and a 16k tractor from the valley at 4800’ elevation to just over 6700’ elevation to my uncles cabin we use regularly an hour away a diesel would be ideal. We do that trip every other weekend. All year round. Pulling rzrs to boats to snowmobiles…. All the other days it would be my commuter 26 miles each way to and from work daily. That trip has 18miles on the highway (70mph) and its total just over 50miles each day for work. That distance should let it regen and get hot but I’m not sure?

My dad’s 3500 LML Duramax pulls those things without breaking a sweat. Mine doesn’t… and I don’t have an engine brake either which would be nice.

My dads is deleted and he’s never had any issues with his truck BUT everyone on forms, and other pages where the the debate is at people say not to get a diesel due to the “expensive” repairs that come with diesels vs gas.

How often are diesels needing repairs and expensive maintenance compared to gassers?

That’s what’s holding me back. People make it sound like the diesel will be in the shop literally 50% of its life before it’s not if it’s when it breaks down and then other problems follow. But how often is that?

If I put good fuel in it? Regular oil changes and fuel filter changes, what other maintenance is needed regularly? And what is the reality of the truck being in the shop costing ~$3-8 grand for repairs regularly??

Only time my dad’s been in the shop for non maintenance is for the delete but I’m going to keep mine stock if I get one.

I’d bee looking at any of the years L5P Silverado 6.6 Duramaxs

Thanks!

Hey everyone!, with IMR 4350 being so hard to find in 8lbs and when it’s seen at any times it’s crazy expensive I’m wanting to change it up. However, I can’t find data for the 270wsm with H4350 and 130gr bullets. I know they aren’t interchangeable, but they are similar. When I see H4350 and 270wsm it’s on Sierra‘s site but super light bullets.

Is there a solid reference I could use to know what is safe with using H4350 with the 270wsm? I’m currently using imr4350 61.4gr but with the slightly different burn rate is it even safe to use H4350 with a 130gr SST?

Thanks in advance!

How do you all watch your own bullet trace in live time?

What magnification is your scope at? What caliber of bullet are you using? What cartridges? What velocity is the bullet at? What distance of target is best to see it at? Does it have to be certain times of day? Humid vs dry air, what’s better? Sunny vs overcast?

I’ve tried to watch mine and I can’t see it but then when I go back and watch my digiscop footage from my spotter I see it. I’ve seen in from 400 and 1400yards on the camera but never in real life like others claim they do.

My set up should be perfect for it so what can I do to practice more? Rifle is MPA PMR Pro II in 6.5 Creedmoor. Bullets are going 2750-2780fps. With weight kit, suppressor with cover, vortex razor gen iii 6-36x MRAD scope, accutac FC-5 bipod with the ski feet it weighs 27.8lbs. When I shoot with my rear bag prone, off a wooden fence post, ect there’s hardly any recoil. The recoil calculators put it recoiling a bit less than a 223.

So what’s going on? I can shoot 100 yards to 1400 yards all day without any issues with my scope on 36x because there’s barely any recoil. I can watch the hole appear in live time at 100 yards and know that I hit my 2/3 IPSC target at 1000 yards due to seeing the bullet splash on the paint and the dirt splash in real time long before I hear it but I can’t see the bullet trace.

I reload. Do I need to slow the velocity’s down? Do I need to shoot with my scope backed out a bit?

Thanks for the help in advance!!

Right now we have a vehicle and the estimated MPG states 22city/28highway. On the highway we’ve been getting 28-34 depending where we’re going. We will keep this vehicle. This is my daily driver right now.

We also have a 2015 F150 5.0 v8. Changed it to the bigger and thicker LT275/70R18 tires and the mpg is 11-12ish city and 16-18highway depending on the speed. That’s not towing. 65-70 mph.

When we need a new truck I’m wanting to go back to a Silverado but I’m debating about the diesels. Right now I can’t pull most of my dad’s trailers in my f150 that his 2016 3500 duramax can but we are able to take and use the trailer whenever we want to whenever his truck is available.

At first I was thinking I’ll just be getting the 1500 3.0 duramax for the mpg and use that as my commuter. I have to drive 26 miles to work each day and 18 miles of that is highway speed limit 70. Going into the city where I work.

But then I thought if the 6.6 duramax is getting what my truck is getting now or hopefully better, then maybe I’ll just get that and be able to pull my dad’s stuff whenever we want to? But then it’s be hard to keep it running long distances regularly and I’m worried about clogged filters.

How much maintenance does the 3.0 duramax need compared to the 6.6 duramax? Are they the same?

At the dealership I’d be getting it at it’s only $30/oil change for life for diesels (free for gassers but I don’t want a gasser and want the best MPG).

Other than oil changes that would cost me $30 each time, I would change the fuel filter myself also to save money, how much more maintenance than that is needed on a diesel vs a gasser?

I wouldn’t be towing often and the MPG on the 3.0 would be nice but the power of the 6.6 would be awesome too. For the right prices of either we could go both ways.

I know diesels don’t like short trips but how many short trips does a non-deleted diesel take before it clogs up? The 3.0 duramax gets the same MPG on paper as my small AWD SUV, and if we get the 3.0L duramax we will have two “fuel efficient” vehicles and the duramax would be my daily and the wife can drive the SUV. Right now she drives the F150 when I’m working because she stays in our town on short trips because I have the small vehicle daily for the mpg.

Thanks in advance.

How much is too much?

I know that tires warm up as they are driven on. I’ve regularly seen my “cold” psi go from 35 to 37s and 50 to 53s psi towing in another vehicle but what’s a normal increase?

For the vehicle in question right now it’s a small crossover suv rav4/equinox sized car, how much psi increase is too much?

It’s cool in the mornings going to work and hot coming home from work. I have 21 miles of highway driving at 70MPH.

In the morning when I pull out of my garage it’s 50-55°F at 6am and tires are at 35psi all around according to my vehicles guage.

When I left work yesterday and Monday it was 86°F and driving home my tires went up to 39psi all around. Yes that’s only 4psi but is that something to worry about on a small passenger car? Is the middle of the tread/tire going to be wearing out fast this summer?

Any other questions and info you need to help just ask!

Thanks!

A few things about this sub… lol

-People must forget Google is a real thing

-People don’t go test drive enough, who cares what specs are go drive it

-People care to much about others options. Yes here people can give experiences of certain things but ever vehicle is different. All the major problems for the “main” vehicles are know and well talked about. Search and read people…

-**Should I buy Kellogg or General Mills or Post Brand cereals….??**

-I’m looking for a new vehicle… ***should I get a 2025 Toyota Corolla XLE car or a 2025 GMC Denali 6.6L Duramax with a 6.5 foot bed truck?***

In all seriousness though, this sub has great advice. People just need to search it before they post. (Same with most subs though)

Thanks for reading my thoughts written out. Lol