u/idahokj

I have multiple suppressors. I've been trying to get my dad to buy a suppressor for many years now and he said he'll do it now. We shoot 99.9% bolt actions.

Is the enticer L a good hunting suppressor for my dad on his 270wsm? I say yes but he’s curious if there’s something better out there for the same price.

The price range is the best and it is the most quiet suppressor tested on pew science. He can't spend much and the $600 range is his budget. That's what the enticer L costs.

It is just 17 ounces. I know there's lighter ones out there, and shorter but when we think suppressor we want it as quiet as we can get it.

This rifle has probably walked (while out hunting) a total of maybe 1 mile. He does truck hunting. We all do we have access to friends private properties.

On my 270wsm I have the YHM R2 (also a heavier can with the QD mount). My dad would just use the direct thread.

I know I could put my OCL Hydrogen L on that's lighter and more quiet but it's dedicated to my long rang e and varmint rifle.

Okay, hear me out. I’m going to try to make this quick. Lol
Essentially is one more inherently fuel efficient than the other?

I’m currently have 2015 F150 5.0 V8 truck. It is NOT My Daily. My next truck will be a diesel and will be my daily for commuting on the highway unloaded (and towing heavy as mentioned more below).

Looking at years 2022-2025. I know these trucks aren’t famous for “Prius level MPG” but I want the most efficient one of my options below. I’ll get to that reasoning.

I need the diesel due to regularly pulling my camper and trailer long distances (581+ miles one way) that’s well over 1,100 miles round trip just on the highways.

I’m in the high mountain desert elevation and going from Montana to Arizona and Nevada a few times a year towing a 22’ enclosed trailer a diesel is needed it weighs almost 19,000 pounds loaded. I’ve been using my dad’s diesel on those trips but that’s his daily now and can’t take his. We also go from home at 5350’ elevation to the cabin a hour away at 6700’ elevation 2-3 weekends a month either pulling a boat, or 20’ flat bed trailer with side-by-sides most the time. Sometimes that trip is just unloaded if it’s only a 2 day trip and doing maintenance lol.

This diesel will be my daily also and that’s why I need/want the most efficient one when unloaded and not towing just commuting 30 miles to work each day with 18 miles on the highway.

OPTIONS: Chevy/GMC 6.6 Duramax engine or a Ram 6.7 Cummins engine?

I know the Ram is the i6 engine and the GM is the v8. I know the Ram has more torque but that’s not needed for my uses.

I’m mostly curious what will be the most fuel efficient engine while commuting unloaded?

TLDR: Unloaded, not towing anything will a 2022-2025 6.6 Duramax or 6.7 Cummins be more fuel efficient for commuting on the highway on cruise, when not towing?

Basically, is one more inherently more fuel efficient than the other?**

Thank you all for your expertise!

Okay, hear me out. I’m going to try to make this quick. Lol
Essentially is one more inherently fuel efficient than the other?

I’m currently have 2015 F150 5.0 V8 truck. It is NOT My Daily. My next truck will be a diesel and will be my daily for commuting on the highway unloaded (and towing heavy as mentioned more below).

Looking at years 2022-2025. I know these trucks aren’t famous for “Prius level MPG” but I want the most efficient one of my options below. I’ll get to that reasoning.

I need the diesel due to regularly pulling my camper and trailer long distances (581+ miles one way) that’s well over 1,100 miles round trip just on the highways.

I’m in the high mountain desert elevation and going from Montana to Arizona and Nevada 1-2 times a year towing a 22’ enclosed trailer a diesel is needed. I’ve been using my dad’s diesel on those trips but that’s his daily now and can’t take his. We also go from home at 5350’ elevation to the cabin a hour away at 6700’ elevation 2-3 weekends a month either pulling a boat, or 20’ flat bed trailer with side-by-sides most the time. Sometimes that trip is just unloaded if it’s only a 2 day trip and doing maintenance lol.

This diesel will be my daily also and that’s why I need/want the most efficient one when unloaded and not towing just commuting 30 miles to work each day with 18 miles on the highway.

OPTIONS: Chevy/GMC 6.6 Duramax engine or a Ram 6.7 Cummins engine?

I know the Ram is the i6 engine and the GM is the v8. I know the Ram has more torque but that’s not needed for my uses.

I’m mostly curious what will be the most fuel efficient engine while commuting unloaded?

TLDR: Unloaded, not towing anything will a 2022-2025 6.6 Duramax or 6.7 Cummins be more fuel efficient for commuting on the highway on cruise, when not towing?

Basically, is one more inherently more fuel efficient than the other?

Thank you all for your expertise!

I hope this is a good place to ask this, and the right person could teach us the process that I’m curious in!

I ordered new Plates (wildlife plates for new to me car).

I checked back on the account a week and a half later and it didn't look any different and didn't know if I was approved or not so I called them. They told me that I was approved for the custom plate and text. He said it could be another 2 weeks.

I got back online a few days ago and my DMV dashboard says that a USPS shipping label was created but it was created on August 10.... That was in the 12th. I've been checking like every other day to see if it's shipped.

I heard someone say that it could be 4-6 weeks total till the plate gets to me. I have 2 more weeks till it's 6 weeks, but does anyone here know the process of making a license plate in Idaho? Is there only one location for all Idaho license plates being made? Just curious for any info.

Im okay waiting still I know I’m not the only one waiting on license plates at this time, I guess just to ask again if anywhere has a “specialty” license place? How long did it take for them to get theirs? And if anyone knows Idahos process in choosing how and what plates to make most? Lol

Any information would be great if anyone knows and can teach us the process of making the license plates in Idaho, how did they choose what order to make them in?
Is it first come first serve? Do they do a few days of “standard” plates, then a few days of a “bluebird” plate, then a few days of the “trout”, ect?

I know I asked the same question a lot but I hope the different ways help relay more of what I’m looking for and make sense?

Thanks!!

This’ll be my first diesel. Looking at getting a 2020+ Duramax. I know diesels like to work and they need to be up to temperature before turning them back off (I know short trips are bad on them). I’ll work it heavy towing hopefully about once a month for a weekend usually, but mostly it’ll be a commuter which I know diesels like also.

I just want to pull my dads big trailer myself instead of using my dad’s truck when we want to go camping, playing, ect. lol his trailer are an available for me to use any time, but coordinating his truck is the tricky part.

I have to drive 26 miles to work each day, and 18 miles of that is highway driving, and then the other 8 miles are going through town stopping at stop lights when I get stopped. It takes 30-35 minutes to get to work. The speed limit is 65-70 mph on the highway, but if I drop my speed down to 60mph the whole time during my 18mile highway section commute, 1-for better mpg and 2- it’s early morning and late evening with very low traffic in my area so going slower than the speed limit isn’t going to make anyone upset, is that going to still keep the engine hot and let it regen properly, or cause any issues?? Would just driving the 70mph on the highway “work the truck more” by using more fuel? I’ve been doing it for years. I know the duramax will get “good mpg” going 60mph.

However a new concern of mine is someone mentioned re-generating the engine would happy more at lower speed and not working the truck by pulling heavy daily?

Wouldnt the highway section and the total time the trucks on/driving help my case out more to keep the engine emissions cleaned out for the most part?

I know that’s long. Hope the quick read makes sense!

Thanks!

This is a long one… lol

From: Sandy Utah to Butte Montana (so you can guess the weather where I’m at mostly).

Vehicle:Buick EnvisionAWD/Chevy Equinox AWD: we’ll say “small SUV.”

When big snow storms hit, we drive the truck with great tires. The Small SUV has the stock tires (highway tires) on now and was fine last winter (crappy snow/moisture winter). We also have AWD but mostly it’s just a few in-town trips in the winter when the roads aren’t plowed yet. Other than that it’s just on plowed, slushy, wet roads. We didn’t need to use the AWD setting even once last year and we were just fine in well below 0°F temps but roads were mostly dry with the stock continental tires last winter. It’s the first time I drove without all weather tires in many decades.

MPG is important for me but still want to be safe.

I fully understand the importance of good tires but we maybe avg 300 miles at most a month in the winter months because we drive the truck and only the small suv when the roads are somewhat decent unless a random storm catches us. This is the summer vehicle mostly and commuter in the summer.

I’ve had two sets of Nokian wrg4s and a set of the WRG5 already. A few other All weather tires over the years and have just run them 100% of the time but this year with the new vehicle I’m debating getting the Nokian ONE over the WRG5 this time for longer lasting tread and better MPG for the 90% highway driving that this vehicle sees.

All this to ask, by going slow, and driving safe the Nokian ONEs should do the trick for our needs right? The WRG5s are quite a bit more money also… I know those are great but what say all you experts?!

Thanks!

This is a long one… lol

From: Sandy Utah to Butte Montana (so you can guess the weather where I’m at mostly).

Vehicle:Buick EnvisionAWD/Chevy Equinox AWD: we’ll say “small SUV.”

When big snow storms hit, we drive the truck with great tires. The Small SUV has the stock tires (highway tires) on now and was fine last winter (crappy snow/moisture winter). We also have AWD but mostly it’s just a few in-town trips in the winter when the roads aren’t plowed yet. Other than that it’s just on plowed, slushy, wet roads. We didn’t need to use the AWD setting even once last year and we were just fine in well below 0°F temps but roads were mostly dry with the stock continental tires last winter. It’s the first time I drove without all weather tires in many decades.

MPG is important for me but still want to be safe.

I fully understand the importance of good tires but we maybe avg 300 miles at most a month in the winter months because we drive the truck and only the small suv when the roads are somewhat decent unless a random storm catches us. This is the summer vehicle mostly and commuter in the summer.

I’ve had two sets of Nokian wrg4s and a set of the WRG5 already. A few other All weather tires over the years and have just run them 100% of the time but this year with the new vehicle I’m debating getting the Nokian ONE over the WRG5 this time for longer lasting tread and better MPG for the 90% highway driving that this vehicle sees.

All this to ask, by going slow, and driving safe the Nokian ONEs should do the trick for our needs right? The WRG5s are quite a bit more money also… I know those are great but what say all you experts?!

Thanks!

L5P here.

Who here uses a bigger than stock sized oil filter? I know you need to move the fuel coolant pump, but by doing that and running a larger filter it should help the engine last longer and filter way better. But will that set off any engine light? Cause pressure issues due to more space? Does anything need to be done to accept the bigger filter other than just move the pump to make room?

Thanks!

Diesel vs Gas

I’ve peen putting off getting a diesel for a while now even though it would be helpful every time I pull the trailer.

I use a 2500 gasser right now but going up to the mountains pulling the 13k enclosed trailer, 12k-ish camper and a 16k tractor from the valley at 4800’ elevation to just over 6700’ elevation to my uncles cabin we use regularly an hour away a diesel would be ideal. We do that trip every other weekend. All year round. Pulling rzrs to boats to snowmobiles…. All the other days it would be my commuter 26 miles each way to and from work daily. That trip has 18miles on the highway (70mph) and its total just over 50miles each day for work. That distance should let it regen and get hot but I’m not sure?

My dad’s 3500 LML Duramax pulls those things without breaking a sweat. Mine doesn’t… and I don’t have an engine brake either which would be nice.

My dads is deleted and he’s never had any issues with his truck BUT everyone on forms, and other pages where the the debate is at people say not to get a diesel due to the “expensive” repairs that come with diesels vs gas.

How often are diesels needing repairs and expensive maintenance compared to gassers?

That’s what’s holding me back. People make it sound like the diesel will be in the shop literally 50% of its life before it’s not if it’s when it breaks down and then other problems follow. But how often is that?

If I put good fuel in it? Regular oil changes and fuel filter changes, what other maintenance is needed regularly? And what is the reality of the truck being in the shop costing \~$3-8 grand for repairs regularly??

Only time my dad’s been in the shop for non maintenance is for the delete but I’m going to keep mine stock if I get one.

I’d bee looking at any of the years L5P Silverado 6.6 Duramaxs

Thanks!

I’ve peen putting off getting a diesel for a while now even though it would be helpful every time I pull the trailer.

I use a 2500 gasser right now but going up to the mountains pulling the 13k enclosed trailer, 12k-ish camper and a 16k tractor from the valley at 4800’ elevation to just over 6700’ elevation to my uncles cabin we use regularly an hour away a diesel would be ideal. We do that trip every other weekend. All year round. Pulling rzrs to boats to snowmobiles…. All the other days it would be my commuter 26 miles each way to and from work daily. That trip has 18miles on the highway (70mph) and its total just over 50miles each day for work. That distance should let it regen and get hot but I’m not sure?

My dad’s 3500 LML Duramax pulls those things without breaking a sweat. Mine doesn’t… and I don’t have an engine brake either which would be nice.

My dads is deleted and he’s never had any issues with his truck BUT everyone on forms, and other pages where the the debate is at people say not to get a diesel due to the “expensive” repairs that come with diesels vs gas.

How often are diesels needing repairs and expensive maintenance compared to gassers?

That’s what’s holding me back. People make it sound like the diesel will be in the shop literally 50% of its life before it’s not if it’s when it breaks down and then other problems follow. But how often is that?

If I put good fuel in it? Regular oil changes and fuel filter changes, what other maintenance is needed regularly? And what is the reality of the truck being in the shop costing ~$3-8 grand for repairs regularly??

Only time my dad’s been in the shop for non maintenance is for the delete but I’m going to keep mine stock if I get one.

I’d bee looking at any of the years L5P Silverado 6.6 Duramaxs

Thanks!

Hey everyone!, with IMR 4350 being so hard to find in 8lbs and when it’s seen at any times it’s crazy expensive I’m wanting to change it up. However, I can’t find data for the 270wsm with H4350 and 130gr bullets. I know they aren’t interchangeable, but they are similar. When I see H4350 and 270wsm it’s on Sierra‘s site but super light bullets.

Is there a solid reference I could use to know what is safe with using H4350 with the 270wsm? I’m currently using imr4350 61.4gr but with the slightly different burn rate is it even safe to use H4350 with a 130gr SST?

Thanks in advance!

How do you all watch your own bullet trace in live time?

What magnification is your scope at? What caliber of bullet are you using? What cartridges? What velocity is the bullet at? What distance of target is best to see it at? Does it have to be certain times of day? Humid vs dry air, what’s better? Sunny vs overcast?

I’ve tried to watch mine and I can’t see it but then when I go back and watch my digiscop footage from my spotter I see it. I’ve seen in from 400 and 1400yards on the camera but never in real life like others claim they do.

My set up should be perfect for it so what can I do to practice more? Rifle is MPA PMR Pro II in 6.5 Creedmoor. Bullets are going 2750-2780fps. With weight kit, suppressor with cover, vortex razor gen iii 6-36x MRAD scope, accutac FC-5 bipod with the ski feet it weighs 27.8lbs. When I shoot with my rear bag prone, off a wooden fence post, ect there’s hardly any recoil. The recoil calculators put it recoiling a bit less than a 223.

So what’s going on? I can shoot 100 yards to 1400 yards all day without any issues with my scope on 36x because there’s barely any recoil. I can watch the hole appear in live time at 100 yards and know that I hit my 2/3 IPSC target at 1000 yards due to seeing the bullet splash on the paint and the dirt splash in real time long before I hear it but I can’t see the bullet trace.

I reload. Do I need to slow the velocity’s down? Do I need to shoot with my scope backed out a bit?

Thanks for the help in advance!!

Right now we have a vehicle and the estimated MPG states 22city/28highway. On the highway we’ve been getting 28-34 depending where we’re going. We will keep this vehicle. This is my daily driver right now.

We also have a 2015 F150 5.0 v8. Changed it to the bigger and thicker LT275/70R18 tires and the mpg is 11-12ish city and 16-18highway depending on the speed. That’s not towing. 65-70 mph.

When we need a new truck I’m wanting to go back to a Silverado but I’m debating about the diesels. Right now I can’t pull most of my dad’s trailers in my f150 that his 2016 3500 duramax can but we are able to take and use the trailer whenever we want to whenever his truck is available.

At first I was thinking I’ll just be getting the 1500 3.0 duramax for the mpg and use that as my commuter. I have to drive 26 miles to work each day and 18 miles of that is highway speed limit 70. Going into the city where I work.

But then I thought if the 6.6 duramax is getting what my truck is getting now or hopefully better, then maybe I’ll just get that and be able to pull my dad’s stuff whenever we want to? But then it’s be hard to keep it running long distances regularly and I’m worried about clogged filters.

How much maintenance does the 3.0 duramax need compared to the 6.6 duramax? Are they the same?

At the dealership I’d be getting it at it’s only $30/oil change for life for diesels (free for gassers but I don’t want a gasser and want the best MPG).

Other than oil changes that would cost me $30 each time, I would change the fuel filter myself also to save money, how much more maintenance than that is needed on a diesel vs a gasser?

I wouldn’t be towing often and the MPG on the 3.0 would be nice but the power of the 6.6 would be awesome too. For the right prices of either we could go both ways.

I know diesels don’t like short trips but how many short trips does a non-deleted diesel take before it clogs up? The 3.0 duramax gets the same MPG on paper as my small AWD SUV, and if we get the 3.0L duramax we will have two “fuel efficient” vehicles and the duramax would be my daily and the wife can drive the SUV. Right now she drives the F150 when I’m working because she stays in our town on short trips because I have the small vehicle daily for the mpg.

Thanks in advance.