The Koenigsegg Regera skips the transmission altogether. Electric motors bring the vehicle up to speed, before the directly-geared engine comes online.
It seems this concept would be more widespread in cheaper hybrid vehicles as well, but I've never heard of any of those foregoing the shiftable transmission like this.
For myself in central Virginia, the thunderstorms most often hit between 5pm and 7pm. But when I look at the radar forecasts, these bands of storms are often moving in from the southwest, implying that other states are getting them earlier in the afternoon.
If you're in an area that's commonly affected by thunderstorms, when do they most often pass through?
1994 f250 PS. I disconnected the brake pedal pushrod in the process of installing a hiem joint on the clutch linkage. The brake light has been staying on since, unless I pull up on the brake pedal.
There's a bit of involvement in removing/installing the switch, since the booster needs to be unbolted from the firewall to move the pushrod far enough over to the side, so I'd rather not do more trial and error on this than I have to.
Should I just buy a new replacement switch, or is there some way to reliably tweak it so the brake lights stay off consistently?
This is an aftermarket gauge set for a classic pickup with dual fuel tanks, and allows the driver to see at glance how much fuel is available in each tank simultaneously. The factory gauges on these dual-tank trucks only had one fuel gauge, and switched it between whichever tank you were pulling from at the moment.
It'd be awesome if instead of the factory single-gauge setup or this aftermarket side-by-side gauge setup, I could have two color-coded needles sweeping on the same gauge.
In building new aftermarket clusters, are there any off-the-shelf stepper motors that include two motors and needles in a single spindle? Or would I need to rig up a bit of custom gearing on the backside of the PCB to make this happen?
I didn't pay enough attention during disassembly.
[Update] On this '94 f250 PS, the eyelet needed to face up. But others have reported it facing down on their trucks, and I've seen videos showing the same. I wonder why the difference?
>The Hobbit: An Unexpected Party
"Gandalf looked at him from under his long bushy eyebrows that stuck out further than the brim of his shady hat."
>The Fellowship of the Ring: A Long-expected Party
"[Gandalf] wore a tall pointed blue hat, a long grey cloak, and a silver scarf. He had a long white beard and bushy eyebrows that stuck out beyond the brim of his hat.
As we've come to see these works as more serious and 'real', and not as much the realm of cartoons anymore, some details in Tolkien's writing don't hardly work. The Rankin Bass cartoon depiction of LOTR shown above does include Gandalf's massive eyebrows. But could that have been done in Peter Jackson's film without just looking silly?
Personally, I think both of these chapters were written by Bilbo, with his characteristic flair for exaggeration evident in each. Details like this were part of his storytelling embellishments, and it's fine to not take everything quite literally.
Some m18 batteries weren't well regarded, such as the 9.0hd. Are there certain m12 sizes that I should steer clear of as well?
I'm specifically looking at the CP lineup for use in a ratchet, and am wondering if there's any concerns with either the cp2.5 or cp3.0.
I bought a new Forge battery last winter, and this old saw (2731-20) stopped running the first time it stalled with that bigger battery. I bought a replacement saw and am satisfied with it. But now, I need to either fix or scrap this old saw.
I do have a use for the old saw 'IF' it doesn't cost too much to fix. But it's not worth spending $100 for a new electronics assembly for it.
The switch ohms out correctly. The motor consistently clicks and twitches when you pull the trigger. I once got the motor to spin for a half-second.
Are there any other common trouble spots I should check for a poor connection, before I relegate the saw to the scrap heap?
Whether in Hoard's Dairyman, Progressive Dairy, or any other trade journal of the type, glance across the article and look for how many numbers it contains. 400,000, 36%, 92, etc. If an article is attempting to teach you to be a better farmer or herd manager, but there's no numbers included in the article, it isn't worth the time to read it.
That's just my somewhat-cynical view on trade journal articles that too often seem to be written just to fill up space.
I'm revamping how I'm doing my record keeping, and the most logical way I've found so far is to keep a notebook of all jobs. One page for each job, where I make job-related notes, and jot down all the costs associated with that job. Once the job is paid and done, the page gets marked as completed, and moved to the back of the folder.
That works well for specific job costs, like 'six tubes of caulk', 'ceiling fan from Lowes', or 'water heater from Cardinal'. The date of the job is precise enough to refer me back to the exact receipt if I need to find it later in my receipt stash.
But this method doesn't give me a good way of accounting for van-stock. All the screws, nails, nuts, bolts, adhesives, sealants, wire wheels, drill bits, cutoff wheels, and other consumables that I use little bits of here and there. These are things where the purchase is usually not directly associated with the job that ends up requiring them.
Worse, is that those consumables get used too in personal home improvement projects and in my farming business. Should I just be estimating a generous dollar amount of consumables used on each handyman-type project, and not bother to track what actually comes into the van?
I'm installing a 2020+ GM 'L8T' engine into a 1987 pickup, and could choose to go either way with the fans. Knowing why GM invariably installed clutch fans in their 2500 and 3500 trucks would help me considerably in choosing which to use in my build. (google pic for attention; not the fan I'd be using)
I'm planning to buy a salvage-yard L8T out of a GM pickup or a Isuzu NPR truck, and bolt it into a 1987 Chevrolet pickup with basically no changes or upgrades.
I see that quite a few of these L8Ts were equipped with dual alternators. Do I want such, or is that just more hassle and expense to install and repair? I can't imagine needing that much electrical output on this truck, but maybe there's durability issues with single alternators that I'm not aware of as well.
Also, is there any rule of thumb for what models had dual alternators and what did not? I'm leaning toward buying an engine from a Isuzu cabover truck, because they're cheaper and supposedly are easier to tune for standalone usage; do those have dual alternators?
I realize this is not a LS engine, but I can't find a LT swap subreddit.
This one was about 4.5 feet long, with more of an attitude than most black snakes around here. I picked him up by the middle, and tried to keep his head mostly pointing away from me; but he still made a couple sudden moves in my direction when I wasn't paying attention.
After a photo on the clothesline, he was turned loose in a nearby flowerbed.
The largest ones I've ever seen were two 6-footers, who were twisted together like a rope. I let them be; no sense in disturbing their efforts to make more babies to eat more mice.
These black snakes are just dangerous enough to make handling them entertaining. I've been sliced open by one before, and have little intention of letting that happen again. But that slight risk of bodily injury just adds to the fun, rather than making me avoid black snakes.
Sorry I don't have an actual photo; I forgot to take one when I was getting measurements. The overall diameter of this gland is 4.342" diameter. The notches are 0.37" wide, 0.58" long, and 0.22" deep.
Do I just need to find a massive hook spanner for this, or is there a tool that I've never seen that's designed to grab multiple notches at once?
I'm watching King Charles's speech to the US Congress, and he also seems a bit put out by the frequent applause interruptions. Save it for the end of the speech, please!
>The Return of the King -- The passing of the grey company.
Light grew, and lo! the company passed through another gateway, high-arched and broad, and a rill ran out beside them; and beyond, going steeply down, was a road between sheer cliffs, knife-edged against the sky far above. So deep and narrow was that chasm that the sky was dark, and in it small stars glinted. Yes as Gimli after learned it was still two hours ere sunset of the day on which they had set out from Dunharrow; though for all that he could then tell it might have ben twilight in some later year, or in some other world.
I'm fine with this being an exaggeration, but I wonder if an impossibly deep canyon could ever darken the daytime sky enough for stars to appear. We see a similar concept with the waters of the Mirrormere as well.
TW25 with extreme blowby. Before I tear deeper into the engine, I'd like to do a compression and leak-down test to find out what I'm working with.
How do I pull these injectors? Can I expect to get them out by prying on the base? I'd rather not remove all the sheet metal above the engine if I can help it, but I will if using a slide-hammer to pull the injectors is the best option.
How do I adapt a compression gauge and leak-down air fitting to the injector bore? Does anyone make an adapter for this, or do I need to buy a junk injector and drill/tap it out?