u/Hnry_Dvd_Thr_Awy

Questions up front:

• Do we know if the RWD mode is available on all models of the Rumble Bee?
• Do the 5.7s pull timing on 87 octane?
• Are there any glaring issues with the base Rumble Bee that I'm missing?

The last truck I owned was a 4.7L Dakota that I loved but it ate window motors and ball joints. This truck visually reminds me a lot of the R/T Dakota and I'm sold on it aesthetically. The last fast car I owned was a Cadillac CT5V Blackwing. With those vehicles in mind I've been thinking about this truck constantly since they announced it. I really think it's basically the ideal DD for me.

Pros:

• ~9,000 towing means it should tow everything I could possibly need
• smaller center screen looks less gaudy to me and and more physical controls
• V8 sounds
• 20" wheels > 22" wheels for me
• 4wd means it'll actually go when you put your foot down
• ZF8 speed, 5.7L with variable displacement are both proven
• shorter than the normal 4 door
• no e-torque

Cons, or stuff that's not as good as it could be:

• No air suspension option on the base
• shorter than the normal 4 door, but I almost never have more than two occupants so this should be nbd

Go off queens 👸 I have POTS which makes wiping hard!

I picked up the SYMIK 100W "PSC" Charger from Amazon for under $30 USD shipped. I figured I'd document a charging test I ran for the internet to see if they're curious.

Methodology:

Charging a fully depleted 4Ah battery PBP005. The battery was depleted with a leaf blower on the highest non-boost level until the blower shutoff. 30 minute cool down afterwards. Power level was checked every 15 minutes for the first 30 then every 5 minutes until charged. I did this twice and took the average.

The SYMIK was paired with a 100 watt USB adapter and a 6' USBC cable allegedly rated at 240w. Watts are measured directly off of SYMIK the unit. This power reading is what the battery is actually receiving.

Results:

The SYMIK charged the battery in ~50 minutes. It started off at ~88 watts and then around 30 minutes (20v aka ~80%) in the SYMIK dropped to ~53 watts until the battery was full charged.

With a 3Ah HP battery this took ~27 minutes and the wattage never dropped from ~88. One quirk is the final 90 seconds the charger looked to be going from max watts down to 1-2w and back up. I'm not sure what was going on there.

Follow up and final thoughts:

• I would like to run this test again with a shorter/beefier cable and see if I could get a true ~100w into the charger like the specs say it can handle.
• I don't think the 65w charge setting makes sense for any of the 2Ah or larger batteries. I could see the case for not wanting to cram 100w into the 1.5Ah battery but I would probably use the basic Ryobi charger for that one or a lower powered USBC adapter.
• I would really like an updated version of this charger that allowed me to set a voltage to stop charging at.

UPDATE1:

• Flipping the charging switch from 100w to 65w lowered the peak charge to 57w vs 88w so I'm assuming the ~13% loss is just heat loss and to be expected and "100w" may never actually be attainable.

Stolen from FB. Hopefully not a repost.

Mother fucker.

tldr: I'm wanting to borrow a small/cheap solar setup. I will happily pay you a deposit equal to fair market value of the setup if you don't trust me that I'll give it back.

Why? I have a less than optimal positioning for solar. I've been using Claude, ChatGPT, forums, Reddit, and some basic math to estimated about how bad it actually is and I just want to confirm this to make sure it's viable for me. So the idea being I borrow a $500 setup or something and keep it for a period of time to measure predicted output vs actual output.

And also if anyone just wants to talk solar as it pertains to Huntsville I'm down to listen. Yes, I know grid-tie isn't really an option here I'm not trying to do that. The purpose for this setup is 1) to charge a battery in the event of any extended power outage, 2) something to tinker with, and 3) some tiny cost savings just cause why not.