u/TrekChris

I'm running the Wii U edition of Breath of the Wild, and I've got some questions about performance.

System specs:
Ryzen 9 5900X
64GB RAM
GeForce 4070 12GB

I've used the graphics packs settings to improve the visuals a bit; resolution is 1440p, draw distance settings up to the maximum recommended (no experimental settings), extended memory, all enhancements enabled/at max, Serfrost's clarity preset, NVIDIA FXAA, ultra shadows, very high shadow draw distance. I'm using the Vulkan API, triple buffered VSYNC, async shader compile, and nearest neighbour filters.

Performance seems to be on par with what I've seen of the vanilla game running on real hardware, which is where I'm a bit confused. I'm fine with 30fps, I don't have high frame rate mode enabled for a reason, but the dropdowns to the mid-low 20s concern me. I feel like I should be getting a locked 30fps with my hardware. Are the dropdowns due to the settings I've changed, or is it just the nature of the emulator that slowdowns that are in the "real" game are part of how it's emulated?

Also the volume is pretty low, even with Cemu's main volume slider cranked up to max. Using XAudio2.

EDIT: Forgot to add, CPU and RAM usage stay low even during these period of frame drops.

I just got an Elecom Huge, and have seen people post about firmware updates for Elecom devices. I have Mouse Assistant 6 installed, but I can't find anything in there about firmware. Can someone point me in the right direction?

I've had the thing apart, looking for ways I can dismantle the ring to clean/lube it, but there doesn't seem to be a way to do it that I can see. Anyone who's also had this problem got any advice for me?

This isn't a post about someone being paranoid that they're being hacked or anything, I'm just curious why it would have done this and what it could have meant by "centre".

Country: UK
Budget: Around £150 max
Preferred store: Amazon
Platform: Xbox Series X|S

I don't need fancy features like extra buttons, macros, RGB, just something comfortable, robust and reliable. I'm not a competitive player, I only play singleplayer games, but nothing that really requires frantic controller usage like a soulslike. Mainly RPGs, action-adventure, etc. Think Assassin's Creed, Elder Scrolls/Fallout, Star Wars Jedi, etc. Would prefer wireless, but if there's something that suits my needs with a cable then I don't really mind. I see all sort of fancy terms, like hall effect thumbsticks, mag-res TMR, polling rates, and I don't really know or care what they mean. I just know that makes a controller "better" than those without it.

I've only ever broken one controller in my life, and that was a cheap Xbox 360 knockoff almost twenty years ago (snapped a thumbstick off while playing a flightsim lol). I'm not inclined to hit them against anything, or throw them across the room. I just tend to have very long gaming sessions and therefore need something reliable that can put up with constant use.

I've looked around at recommendations, and two that have stood out in terms of reliability are the GameSir G7 Pro ZZZ (I don't see the point of buying the regular Pro, because why buy a wireless controller that you have to use wired with an XBOX?) and the PowerA MOGA XP-Ultra. Both are wireless, but seem to fill different niches.

Recommendations or confirmation of one of my choices would be appreciated.

The only one I've been able to find is tiny, difficult to read, and the cities don't have points on them (just names) so I can't compare locations.

I have a mono TV with SCART input, and the speaker in it isn't all that great. In the past when I had TVs with composite input, I'd use an RCA to 3.5MM adapter and an RCA switchbox to pull out the audio to external speakers, but I can't do that here without losing RGB. Does anyone know of a female-to-female SCART coupler with RCA socket or a 3.5mm jack on it for audio? Or perhaps a switchbox that will do this?

I have a mono TV with SCART input, and the speaker in it isn't all that great. In the past when I had TVs with composite input, I'd use an RCA to 3.5MM adapter and an RCA switchbox to pull out the audio to external speakers, but I can't do that here without losing RGB. Does anyone know of a female-to-female SCART coupler with RCA socket or a 3.5mm jack on it for audio? Or perhaps a switchbox that will do this?

I downloaded a demo, and it comes with both a COM file and an ASM file. Is the ASM file needed to run the COM file, or will it run without?

This started yesterday, and has happened three or four times now. I'll be watching something on PleX, and will suddenly get kicked out of the session with a network error. I can't access my DSM interface during this time. Lights are on and flashing in what I imagine is a normal pattern (I don't see it normally while it's in use, so I can't tell for sure). Eventually it comes back, and the software reports that the drive pool is healthy. My NAS is not overheating, it's pretty cool to the touch.

Where can I find logs that might tell me what's going on during these times of unavailability?