u/Snoak- I hope you see this. Your MDBLists are great, but there's a problem with incorrect ID mapping, so the wrong shows and movies are in your lists. I've sent a chat request about it, but since you're inactive on Reddit, I am creating this thread too just in case it reaches you better. :) I am personally terrible at checking chat requests.

The contents of a container such as Chocolate Smoochies (chance of containing Valentine's Fortune trinket) or the Easter Eggs (chance of containing elemental damage trinkets) is determined when the container SPAWNS, meaning it's NOT randomized when you break it!

This means that you cannot just save in front of a container and break it endlessly, because it will always contain the same loot. (This has been verified by me saving in front of a container that had a trinket, and seeing that it dropped 100% of the time every time I reloaded that save.)

This video shows that the loot is the same every time I reload the save game. I used my method of speeding up the farming of these trinkets (see link at the bottom of the post), and saved before every attempt until I had reached one that contained the trinket. As you can see, the trinket is there every time you reload the game, which PROVES that loot is determined on SPAWN, and NOT randomized when you break the item.

YouTube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=226F4dkluNw

Alternative video link if the YouTube video ever goes down: https://imgur.com/a/QeOAibk

===

This is a followup to my guide about how to get these trinkets very quickly: WORKING GUIDE: How to save-scum the seasonal event food trinkets and other loot, to get a 100% guaranteed drop and save dozens of hours of your time!

• This problem started happening after I upgraded from Fedora 43 to 44. It was perfectly stable in Fedora 43.
• I use GNOME and my display output is a TV with VRR mode (variable refresh rate).
• My pipewire + wireplumber config files are default, unmodified.
• After a few hours uptime, the audio becomes extremely delayed. Let's say someone speaks in a YouTube video or there's an audio effect in a game. The audio will be heard 2 seconds later after the event has already happened on-screen.
• My only way to fix it is "systemctl --user restart pipewire". Then it's in sync again for a few more hours.

It seems like Pipewire builds a larger and larger audio buffer the longer my uptime has been. I have no idea how to fix it except to constantly restart Pipewire when it's too delayed... Any ideas?

• This problem started happening after I upgraded from Fedora 43 to 44. It was perfectly stable in Fedora 43.
• I use GNOME and my display output is a TV with VRR mode.
• After a few hours uptime, the audio becomes extremely delayed. Let's say someone speaks in a YouTube video or there's an audio effect in a game. The audio will be heard 2 seconds later after the event has already happened on-screen.
• My only way to fix it is "systemctl --user restart pipewire". Then it's in sync again for a few more hours.

It seems like Pipewire builds a larger and larger audio buffer the longer my uptime has been. I have no idea how to fix it except to constantly restart Pipewire when it's too delayed... Any ideas?

Jag håller på och väljer hemförsäkring och försöker hitta en balans mellan billigt + bra täckning. Tittar främst på ICA Försäkring. Kostar 267kr/mån för 89kvm med 2 personer i Stockholm, och majoriteten recensioner säger att de är lätta att prata med när försäkringen behöver användas. Deras självrisk och utbetalningsbelopp och vad som täcks av försäkringen är riktigt bra.

Tittade också på alla de "klassiska" bolagen, men de har väldigt mycket klagomål från kunder på recensionssidor, och alla låg på ungefär samma pris som ICA eller högre.

Tittade även på Sveriges billigaste, Hedvig, som bara är 129kr/mån men dock mycket sämre villkor; täcker mindre, är bara typ 40-50% i utbetalning jämfört med etablerade försäkringsbolag, och de har massa klagomål om att de inte hjälper en (all handläggning sker via Chat och de slingrar sig ur och ghostar folk etc), och hela Hedvigs business model är att sälja till ungdomar via appar och multi level marketing (ju mer folk du rekryterar desto mer rabatt får du). Dessutom har de en helt galen policy att från och med 46 års ålder så minskar ersättningen med 50000kr/år, så om en laptop ramlar och går sönder hemma när du är 46 så får du ingenting lol. ("Försäkringsbeloppet avtrappas from det år den försäkrade fyller 46 år med 50 000 kr per år för att vid 65 år ålder vara helt borttaget.") Så Hedvig är borta i mina ögon. Men det är bra att de existerar och utmanar de etablerade bolagen så klart. :) Men vill inte riskera att använda dem, så deras låga pris blir därför irrelevant i jämförelsen.

Så det blir antingen ICA eller ett av de andra klassiska bolagen. Och där ligger priserna ungefär likadant hos alla.

Undrar om någon har något att tillägga om ICA Försäkring?

• #1 i både basutbut och plustillägg på Konsumenternas: https://www.konsumenternas.se/konsumentstod/jamforelser/boendeforsakringar/jamfor-hemforsakringar/
• #1 på Försäkrio: https://xn--frskrio-7wa3n.se/hemforsakring/#topplista
• Hela försäkringskostnaden omvandlas till Stammis-poäng på ICA så att man får pengar tillbaka på matköpen: https://www.icaforsakring.se/om-ica-forsakring/bonus-pa-ica-forsakring/
• De återbetalar fullt pris för all elektronik som köpts inom 4 år. Och har man mycket elektronik så finns dessutom ett tillägg för +12kr/mån som sänker självrisken och ökar utbetalningen för specifikt äldre elektronik (äldre än 4 år), vilket jag funderar på som tillägg.

Har jämfört kundrecensioner med andra bolag på Reco:

• ICA Försäkring 3.9/5: https://www.reco.se/ica-forsakring-ab
• Hedvig 1.8/5: https://www.reco.se/hedvig-ab
• IF 1.6/5: https://www.reco.se/if-skadeforsakring-ab-publ-stockholm-karlavagen-100
• Länsförsäkringar 1.1/5: https://www.reco.se/lansforsakringar-ab-publ-stockholm
• Dina Försäkringar 1.1/5: https://www.reco.se/dina-forsakring-ab
• Trygg Hansa 1.1/5: https://www.reco.se/trygg-hansa-stockholm-fleminggatan-18

---

Uppdatering: Här är en summering på allt som diskuterats i kommentarerna:

• Kolla fackförbund om du är medlem. Ibland har de 10-20% rabatt på försäkring.
• ICA Försäkringar är bra och folk är väldigt nöjda.
• Länsförsäkringar är också väldigt bra. De är icke vinstdrivna och är "kundägda", och är lätta att ha att göra med. De ger dessutom ibland återbäring till sina kunder om de gjort en stor vinst: https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%C3%A4nsf%C3%B6rs%C3%A4kringar#Kund%C3%A4gt
• 40% av folk yngre än 30 år i Sverige saknar hemförsäkring, så för att få in dem så skapade Länsförsäkringar det nya företaget "Sejfa" där priset är lägre men villkoren är lite annorlunda. De säljer enbart hemförsäkringar (ingen bilförsäkring etc). Det ingår mycket bra saker i deras försäkring till ett lågt pris. Finns både för och nackdelar hos dem vilket täcks ganska bra i min post här: https://www.reddit.com/r/PrivatEkonomi/comments/1v2cc64/comment/oyv01h4/?context=3
• Jag valde att ge Sejfa en chans i ett år eftersom de är billiga och är en del av Länsförsäkringar. Troligen kommer ingenting hända mig, eftersom mitt sista försäkringsärende var 2012. Så valde därför denna billiga leverantör.
• Om man behöver andra sorters försäkringar (bilförsäkring t.ex.) så hade jag valt ICA Försäkring eller Länsförsäkringar beroende på vilken som är billigast där man bor. Man brukar få en rabatt om man tecknar flera olika försäkringar hos samma bolag, så tänk på det också.

Faketime is a utility that makes a process see a different time than the host time. It's useful for single player games that have seasonal content that you don't want to wait a year to get.

===

Here's a very quick summary of how to use it on Fedora. To see if it works on your machine:

1. Have the native Steam package.
2. "sudo dnf install libfaketime" to get faketime.
3. Change a Steam Proton-based game's launch options to "faketime -f '-415d' %command%"
4. Try to launch the game. It will probably just hang immediately like all games do for me.

===

Full description and deeper information:

I'm using the native Steam package, so it has full access to native libraries and programs.

There are two ways to use faketime in Steam; as a binary or as a library. Both have been used by people on other distros. None of them work on Fedora. I was even starting to wonder if something like SELinux is bricking processes when the time is wrong, but that can't be the reason because the "date" command works via faketime and shows the faked date. To be sure it's not SELinux, I also disabled SELinux at runtime via "sudo setenforce 0", but all games still hang with faketime on Fedora.

Personally, I've tried on both Fedora 43 and 44 and it always hangs the Steam games I try. Has anyone made it work?

Here are my instructions for using it:

• Fedora has it in their OS repos: sudo dnf install libfaketime
• Other distros may have it with the name "faketime" or "libfaketime".
• Use relative dates so that your time still flows in-game instead of restarting itself to the same date every launch. Example to "415 days ago": faketime -f '-415d' /bin/date
• Use a site like this to calculate how many days ago to use to reach a specific date: https://www.timeanddate.com/date/duration.html
• When launching games with environment variables, you must set those before the faketime command, otherwise faketime will not find the program (the console, if you launch steam with terminal, will say "faketime: Running specified command failed: No such file or directory")
• Here is an example of a valid Steam launch command: PULSE_LATENCY_MSEC=30 faketime -f '-415d' %command% -dx11
• You can also use the library version, such as this: LD_PRELOAD="libfaketime.so.1" FAKETIME="2020-01-01 12:00:00" %command%
• And with relative dates: LD_PRELOAD="libfaketime.so.1" FAKETIME="-415d" %command%

Unfortunately none of the games on Steam will launch if you use faketime though. They just sit and hang, with a "Stop" button in Steam, and if you check with "ps" to see running processes, you'll see the game processes hanged. I tried several games (Baldurs Gate 1, Forager and Grounded) and none worked with faketime.

I even tried using an offset of "+0s" meaning same time as the real clock, just to see if Proton and Steam somehow need to be in sync with the same date, but nope, it still hangs.

I also tried installing the "libfaketime.i686" which is the 32-bit version, but then it simply doesn't load the library at all, so the game sees the real time, and the Steam error console is spammed with "ERROR: ld.so: object '/run/host/usr/lib/libfaketime.so.1' from LD_PRELOAD cannot be preloaded (wrong ELF class: ELFCLASS32): ignored." which confirms that Proton needs the 64-bit version of libraries.

So I dunno. I have tried faketime binary and library versions in both 32-bit and 64-bit modes, and with zero time offsets too. Nothing works. Every game process hangs immediately if fake time is involved at all.

Yet the internet is full of people successfully using faketime in Steam on other distros. Could it be something related to Fedora-specifics such as SELinux after all?

I have seen several people on Discord and Reddit in the past two days saying the following:

• OctoWoW identities were recently unmasked, including a woman in Brazil and a man in Iceland, who can now be sued by Blizzard.
• That the 8 developers actually all know each other and that the "we are all anonymous strangers and use encryption to talk to each other" was just role-playing to make the server seem trustworthy. Which makes sense (that they know each other), since the server popped out of nowhere without any pre-announcement, with a fully formed team of 8 developers.

Does anyone have more details?

• The problem: In the 2026 update, Sony broke the remote's built-in microphone so that it only works on the home screen but doesn't work in any apps (it doesn't even work for the built-in system Gboard keyboard anymore). If you try using it in apps, you may see messages such as "Microphone is blocked", and it will not record any audio. If you go into the app's permissions, the Microphone permission will always say "Don't allow" no matter what you've set the permission to.
• The solution: You must find your TV's "built-in mic switch" and set it to "On". For my Bravia 9, it was on the back of the TV near the HDMI inputs (but for others it may be on the bottom center of the TV). This enables the system-wide permission for apps to record from the microphone (and your app's permissions screens will properly show "Microphone: Allow" again). Unfortunately the TV's physical mic switch *also* enables the TV's own built-in microphone (the "Hey Google" roomwide voice control stuff), which many of us would have preferred to stay disabled to save electricity and enhance privacy. (However, as long as you don't enable "Voice Assistant" in the system settings, the system won't be listening at all times, I think?)

Extra details:

• Apps will always use the remote mic, NOT TV mic: When you trigger a search from an app GUI, the TV will use the REMOTE's microphone. It will NOT use the TV's own built-in frame microphone. I verified this thoroughly by blocking either the remote's or TV's mic and then speaking. The voice was ONLY picked up via the remote control.
• The "hands-free Hey Google Voice Assistant" does NOT enable the TV microphone for apps: I enabled the voice assistant (which makes the TV listen to the room at all times) and used "hey google" successfully via the TV's own built-in mic. Then, I went into YouTube, pressed its UI microphone search icon, and tried speaking directly into the TV frame (while manually blocking my remote's mic). It didn't pick up anything. So the TV's mic is NEVER used by apps.
• In summary: The "Hey Google" built-in TV mic is ONLY used for Hey Google hands-free voice activated system commands. All apps that request voice input via their UIs will ALWAYS use the remote control's mic.
• Some apps (YouTube only?) have recording input lag: When you click the YouTube voice search UI icon, it takes about 1 second before the remote control's "mic recording" light turns on. If you speak before the light turns on, those words will NOT be heard by YouTube. However, this delay does NOT exist in other apps I tested, which were instantly recording (Stremio and Nuvio). My guess is that YouTube intentionally coded a microphone activation delay for their voice search for some reason.
• You can bypass the YouTube input lag by using the Assistant method: While YouTube is the focused app, hold down the remote's microphone button and speak. An "assistant" bar appears at the top of the screen, which instantly records and sends your words to YouTube's search. I will use this method in YouTube instead of their own UI's search button, since it avoids the delay and it's more convenient anyway (it lets you search directly from ANY YouTube screen without having to navigate to the search manually).

Is this a bug?

Yes. If anyone from Sony (or with contacts there) reads this, please tell them to fix this. The built-in TV mic's on/off switch isn't supposed to also disable the remote control mic.

• The problem: In the 2026 update, Sony broke the remote's built-in microphone so that it only works on the home screen but doesn't work in any apps (it doesn't even work for the built-in system Gboard keyboard anymore). If you try using it in apps, you may see messages such as "Microphone is blocked", and it will not record any audio. If you go into the app's permissions, the Microphone permission will always say "Don't allow" no matter what you've set the permission to.
• The solution: You must find your TV's "built-in mic switch" and set it to "On". For my Bravia 9, it was on the back of the TV near the HDMI inputs (but for others it may be on the bottom center of the TV). This enables the system-wide permission for apps to record from the microphone (and your app's permissions screens will properly show "Microphone: Allow" again). Unfortunately the TV's physical mic switch *also* enables the TV's own built-in microphone (the "Hey Google" roomwide voice control stuff), which many of us would have preferred to stay disabled to save electricity and enhance privacy. (However, as long as you don't enable "Voice Assistant" in the system settings, the system won't be listening at all times, I think?)

Extra details:

• Apps will always use the remote mic, NOT TV mic: When you trigger a search from an app GUI, the TV will use the REMOTE's microphone. It will NOT use the TV's own built-in frame microphone. I verified this thoroughly by blocking either the remote's or TV's mic and then speaking. The voice was ONLY picked up via the remote control.
• The "hands-free Hey Google Voice Assistant" does NOT enable the TV microphone for apps: I enabled the voice assistant (which makes the TV listen to the room at all times) and used "hey google" successfully via the TV's own built-in mic. Then, I went into YouTube, pressed its UI microphone search icon, and tried speaking directly into the TV frame (while manually blocking my remote's mic). It didn't pick up anything. So the TV's mic is NEVER used by apps.
• In summary: The "Hey Google" built-in TV mic is ONLY used for Hey Google hands-free voice activated system commands. All apps that request voice input via their UIs will ALWAYS use the remote control's mic.
• Some apps (YouTube only?) have recording input lag: When you click the YouTube voice search UI icon, it takes about 1 second before the remote control's "mic recording" light turns on. If you speak before the light turns on, those words will NOT be heard by YouTube. However, this delay does NOT exist in other apps I tested, which were instantly recording (Stremio and Nuvio). My guess is that YouTube intentionally coded a microphone activation delay for their voice search for some reason.
• You can bypass the YouTube input lag by using the Assistant method: While YouTube is the focused app, hold down the remote's microphone button and speak. An "assistant" bar appears at the top of the screen, which instantly records and sends your words to YouTube's search. I will use this method in YouTube instead of their own UI's search button, since it avoids the delay and it's more convenient anyway (it lets you search directly from ANY YouTube screen without having to navigate to the search manually).

Is this a bug?

Yes. If anyone from Sony (or with contacts there) reads this, please tell them to fix this. The built-in TV mic's on/off switch isn't supposed to also disable the remote control mic.

If two Android TVs are signed into the same account, and I change a setting such as poster card size and style, does this sync to the other TV automatically?

Because I already hate that settings are per-profile and would hate even more if they are per-TV. (With 3 profiles and 2 TVs that would mean manually changing a setting in 6 places! But if profile settings sync between TVs it would only be 3 places...)

Why?

Fedora, and most other Linux distros, has several very bad WiFi behaviors enabled by default which causes major lag spikes on WiFi, increasing your latency by hundreds of milliseconds for 5-25 seconds every few minutes. If you're playing online games that rely on very low latency, then you will have a terrible experience on Linux by default.

Those harmful features can thankfully all be tweaked for maximum WiFi performance instead, which is very important when playing online games. After tweaking Linux, my WiFi latency is rock solid at 0.5 - 1 milliseconds at all times.

Instructions

General WiFi Optimizations

• Always use the newest WiFi protocol that your router and computer supports, since newer protocols have lower latency.
• If your router allows you to set different names for 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz, then you should do that to ensure that you can pick the correct frequency for your gaming computer.
• Always connect via 5 GHz if possible, since it has much lower latency than 2.4 GHz. This is due to 5 GHz having significantly higher bandwidth and less interference, because the 2.4 GHz band has very few channels/frequencies and also suffers heavy interference from Bluetooth, microwave ovens, and most of your neighbor's routers. However, if you are behind many walls, you may be forced to use 2.4 GHz instead, since the lower-frequency signal is more stable across longer distances.
• If your network router has traffic-shaping / QoS (Quality of Service) features, then it may be worth enabling it to ensure that the router achieves low gaming latency even while people in your home may be streaming movies, downloading things, etc. The purpose of router QoS is to ensure that high-priority data such as gaming always flows smoothly even while heavy downloads/uploads are ongoing on the same internet connection. Whether the QoS works well or not depends on your router, though. Many low/mid-grade consumer routers lack the necessary processing power to inspect and prioritize network traffic in real-time, often turning the feature into a speed bottleneck rather than a helpful optimization.
• If you can physically move your router, you can also try different placements to help with latency for your gaming computers. It's usually recommended to place routers 1.5 - 2 meters off the floor. You can also try angling the antennas different ways to see if that helps.
• If your router is bad, then you should buy a good, low-latency gaming router. With these Linux tweaks, my WiFi 6 router (GL-iNet GL-MT6000) in 5 GHz mode, without QoS (it has those features but I just haven't needed them), has a rock solid 0.5 - 1ms latency through three walls at a 10 meter distance from my two gaming computers, and the WiFi connection is operating at over 1500 Mbits, which is very good for WiFi 6 at that distance, with all those obstacles and walls. The performance is fantastic and I can play competitive online games without any issues anymore.

Monitoring Ping

• Begin by pinging your router IP and let this run in the background while doing the other tests/tweaks. This will measure the latency of your home WiFi link.

​

ping -i0.5 <your router IP>

# Typical examples:
ping -i0.5 192.168.0.1
ping -i0.5 10.0.0.1

Check for WiFi Scan Events

• Run the following command to watch for WiFi related events. Let it run in the background.

​

iw event

• This command will show you the major reason for the high ping spikes on Fedora/Linux: You will almost certainly see "scan started" and "scan finished" events every few minutes. Every time those scanning events happen, your ping/latency will skyrocket!
• Those "scan" events mean that your WiFi adapter disconnects from your current WiFi network, roams across all available WiFi channels (on all frequencies) and sends beacons to ask if there are any WiFi networks on those channels, and then waits for the responses, before finally connecting back onto your own network again.
• The WiFi scanning is the primary reason for the major ping spikes on Linux. It is slightly intelligent of course, and only scans a few channels at a time, jumping on/off/on/off from your intended network while the scanning happens, but it still leads to massive lag spikes of hundreds of milliseconds between your own packets while a scan is happening, since your WiFi adapter is disconnected and busy with scanning for other networks during these "scan" events. That's what we will fix in the next sections.

Disable WiFi Network Access Point Roaming

• Fedora, and most other distros, uses "NetworkManager" to configure network connections. It's an intelligent, modern connection manager with lots of smart features. But its default WiFi behaviors have some major problems, as we'll see soon.
• By default, "NetworkManager" is configured to behave as if you are using a laptop and that you are walking around in a huge building with a "mesh network" with tons of access points that all have the same SSID. Such "mesh" networks are based on the fact that an SSID (the network name) isn't a unique identifier and that multiple routers/access points can actually have the same SSID to create a "mesh/roaming" network. Every router/access point has a hidden "BSSID" (similar to a MAC address) which is the true identifier of that device, thus letting your computer see all of the available nearby "mesh nodes" and then automatically pick the highest-signal strength "BSSID" for the desired network "SSID".
• For example, let's say that you are connected to "My Network". Behind the scenes, NetworkManager always assumes that it might be a mesh network, and periodically performs a "WiFi scan" to look for other access points with the exact same "My Network" name but with higher signal strengths, so that it can "roam" onto a higher-quality WiFi signal source.
• That automatic scanning for stronger WiFi signals is great if you are on a mesh network with a laptop and constantly move around in the building while doing office work or whatever. But it's terrible and very harmful if you have a single, high-performance home router. It's also terrible if you have a computer which is always connected to the same mesh node.
• Every time the "WiFi scan" happens, you will get massive lag spikes. To defeat that, we have to tell NetworkManager to use a specific BSSID (a specific router/access point) for your desired home network, so that it stops looking for alternative mesh nodes.
• First, we have to find the BSSID for your network. Open a terminal and run the following command. It may take a few seconds before it provides any output.

​

nmcli device wifi

• You will see a list of nearby networks, the currently in-use network (marked with a *), and the BSSID (actual router/access point ID) you're currently connected to on that network. Remember the BSSID.
• The next step depends on your desktop environment.
• GNOME: Open "GNOME Settings". Go to the "Wi-Fi" section. Click the "Network Options" settings icon for your wireless network. Go to the "Identity" tab. Open the "BSSID" dropdown and select the BSSID that you saw in the terminal. Press "Apply". The setting takes effect immediately.
• KDE: Open "KDE System Settings". Go to the "Network: Connections" section. Select the wireless network. Go to the "Wi-Fi" tab. Open the "BSSID" dropdown and select the BSSID that you saw in the terminal. Press "Apply". The setting takes effect immediately.
• Other desktop environments: Try to find the "BSSID" settings in your network properties, or search online for "nmcli connection modify bssid" to find guides about how to manually set the BSSID lock via the terminal. The syntax is pretty clunky, so I won't cover it here.
• You can now use the terminal to verify that the BSSID lock has been configured in the 802-11-wireless.bssid property. This setting will persist between reboots.

​

nmcli connection show "YOUR NETWORK NAME" | grep bssid

# Example:
nmcli connection show "Aether Net" | grep bssid

• Close the GNOME or KDE Settings app, since your desktop environment (obviously) constantly performs WiFi network scans to check for available networks while you're actively looking at its WiFi network list/settings panel.
• Now you have successfully told NetworkManager that it shouldn't attempt to roam to different BSSIDs anymore, as you can see in its "bssid" property documentation: "Locking a client profile to a certain BSSID will prevent roaming and also disable background scanning". This fact has also been verified in the source code.
• Note: There have been discussions in 2016 (at a GNOME developer blog and at a CeroWrt open-source WiFi firmware blog) about improving NetworkManager to be more intelligent and only do these "roaming" background scans if the signal power of the current BSSID drops too low (which would be a good indication that you have moved away from the access point). However, unfortunately it hasn't been implemented, since the discussions basically ended with "we must constantly pre-scan all available networks so that we can quickly change to the next available BSSID if the current network connection drops". In typical Linux fashion, things will only be improved if a motivated developer is sufficiently personally annoyed by it. But at least we can always manually disable the roaming ourselves.

Disable WiFi-based Geolocation Lookups

• By default, Fedora and most other Linux distros use GeoClue2 as the geolocation provider, and the default configuration tells it to scan for nearby WiFi networks and query the BeaconDB online database of "access point BSSIDs to geolocation coordinates" lookups to determine your physical location. This background scan happens every few minutes by default in GNOME (to update things like Night Light, the Weather widget, etc), and at similar intervals on KDE, and also whenever a standalone application queries the location API. Every time such a "nearby WiFi networks" scan is performed, you will have massive lag spikes.
• Furthermore, the BeaconDB WiFi database is very low-quality, since it relies on volunteers installing nerdy Android apps and walking around the streets to create a map of GPS locations and BSSIDs. It will almost never have any search results for your computer's WiFi list and is therefore totally pointless, and GeoClue2 will pretty much always fall back to the GeoIP (IP-based location) backend instead.
• There is only one way to solve this: We must disable the (useless) WiFi-based location scanning, by creating a custom config override file.

​

sudo tee /etc/geoclue/conf.d/90-disable-wifi-scan.conf <<EOF
[wifi]
enable=false
EOF

• Force GeoClue2 to restart its service, to apply the new setting.

​

sudo systemctl restart geoclue

• Note: When you've disabled WiFi scanning, GeoClue2 will instead always use IP-based location lookups (GeoIP).
• If you want to perform a location lookup to check the accuracy afterwards, then you have to install the GeoClue2 demo and run it as follows.

​

sudo dnf install geoclue2-demos

/usr/libexec/geoclue-2.0/demos/where-am-i

• The command will show your latitude, longitude and tell you which lookup database was used. For me, it says "GeoIP (ichnaea)", meaning that it's purely based on my internet IP address. It's good enough for my purposes, which is just local weather and GNOME's Night Light (sunset/sunrise) calculations.
• Note: You can use "GNOME Maps" and press the "current location" toolbar button in the top left, to see where your coordinates are on the map. Alternatively, you can enter the latitude and longitude (separated by a space) on Google Maps.

Disable WiFi Adapter Power Saving

• By default, the kernel shuts down the WiFi adapter whenever the connection has been inactive for a while, thus causing a latency spike as soon as you attempt to use the connection again. The actual behavior is completely dependent on what WiFi adapter you have, since different drivers use different power saving algorithms. Some WiFi adapters may be smart enough to always have good behavior, while others may seriously misbehave when power saving is enabled, sometimes even causing packet loss during normal non-idle operations.
• If you're on a laptop, you may want to keep the power saving anyway. But if you're using a desktop machine, it's always better to disable power-saving to optimize WiFi latency, since a typical adapter only uses around 0.5-4 watts (depending on the activity).
• To disable power saving, we must create a custom NetworkManager config override file, which tells it to globally disable power saving for all WiFi networks you connect to. Otherwise you'd have to configure it per-network (which would be very tedious and error-prone).

​

sudo tee /etc/NetworkManager/conf.d/90-default-wifi-powersave-off.conf <<EOF
[connection]
wifi.powersave=2
EOF

• You must also restart NetworkManager to apply the new setting.

​

sudo systemctl restart NetworkManager

• If you want to verify that power saving is disabled, you can query NetworkManager about your network name's settings.

​

nmcli connection show "YOUR NETWORK NAME" | grep powersave

# Example:
nmcli connection show "Aether Net" | grep powersave

• The 802-11-wireless.powersave property should say 0 (default) which means that it uses the global default (which we've set to 2 above, meaning "disabled"). But if you have manually overridden that specific connection before, it may show a different value. A value of 2 is also acceptable here, since it means "disabled".
• Note: If you are a laptop tinkerer and have been using TLP to control power, beware that TLP has settings that will automatically override WiFi power saving whenever you switch between a power outlet and battery, which you also have to configure then. Fedora doesn't install TLP by default, so it's not a concern for most people.

• Added Google account A and installed and purchased Projectivy premium.
• Added Google account B to the same TV (to be able to use YouTube profile switching).
• Play Store is still showing my primary account (A) as the active store account.
• Projectivy no longer recognizes premium and if I try to buy premium, the app always wants to use account B and has no way to switch. wtf...

I have read that the first Google account we signed into is the primary account in Android TV. Which is why it's so confusing that Projectivy doesn't see it that way.

Is there any way you can improve the code to query all Google accounts for purchase status?

I haven't found any way in the Android TV settings to fix this...

Wow, I've played the game many times throughout early access, and I've had a looooot of abandoned saves, partially because I never wanted the game to end and always got stuck doing base building instead of finishing the story... so I never made it to the finale until today! 😃

I started a fresh save a week ago and became so obsessed that I've played Subnautica every day, determined to finally complete the story. I can finally say that I'm one of the 13.9% of players on Steam who have completed the game! :)

It's an absolute masterpiece. I love the incredible variation of beautiful biomes and scary monsters. There's always something new and creepy and exciting around every corner. It's the perfect mix of a spooky and relaxing game.

This time, I made my home base in the Shallows, because I wanted beautiful, clear water and cute little fishies outside my observatory bedroom. It was so cozy that I preferred staying home instead of going out, haha! I've attached a photo of my cozy bedroom in my Time Capsule!

That's it. The final journey is now complete! Hopefully my Time Capsule makes it into the game someday. I spent a long time writing it with my family. :)

If anyone wants to help vote for inclusion in the game, I can do the same for you if you post your own capsule links in the comments!

To find my capsule:

1. https://subnautica.unknownworlds.com/time-capsules-search
2. Text query: TC-711556542
3. Click the blue up arrow if you want to help immortalize these great memories!
4. For some reason this is the only way to vote. The vote buttons on the direct page don't work. :') But you can post links to your own capsules in the comments and I'll find them via the search to vote for them too!

Salute, fellow Subnauts! 😍