u/Alternative-Try-3456

my 2 old 30W solder irons tips turned entirely black and stopped working at all. i purchased a new one, the attached image is of the new iron after 1 day. i used it for an hour only. it isnt melting any solder when i hold it against a wire, and even at max temp 480 i need to hold solder next to it for 2-3 seconds before it melts, and even then the solder solidifies when i put it against copper, even only wires. none of the irons showed any signs of overtime degradation, just happened in a single day.

LM741 op-amp, 1N4148 diodes and rheostat at Input(-) to control amplification/gain, and volume potentiometer (as voltage divider) in the end. Ranges from 200x to 20x amplification for distortion, can be controlled effectively to make it feel like distortion threshold increases or decreases.

I have read about aluminium enclosures being better to block EMF and radio and other types of noise and provide suitable ground return, but to what extent does it matter and is needed/is helpful?

am i in the big leagues now? is this enough knowledge and experience to start a pedals business now?

3-band EQ, I had to improvise for missing precise measurements, that is why theres just 5 capacitors in series 😅

i think i did a good job with my first build. initially bit off way more than i could chew (check prior posts, i feel embarrassed thinking i could do allat)

Been waiting to start this web series for quite some time but couldn't until yesterday, but I've been following the story to some extent for some time.

It is supposed to be a 3-band EQ distortion pedal (I need to place the diodes before the EQ gain stages). When I make this without the distortion diodes, I get no sound, and upon measuring the voltages, Collector of each transistor is 0V and the base is 0.7V. All resistors are 10k ohms. When I add 10k ohms from Emitter to ground instead of full to ground (from my understanding the voltage difference between emitter and base voltage needs to be within 0.7V so the transistor doesn't fully open) I instead get a ringing sound which can, in fact, be controlled by the EQ gains, and adjusting then audibly effects the ringing sound, but the input from the guitar still makes so output sound at all. All this accounting for the fact that the potentiometers are arranged in reverse. I am rather new to this, and I designed this entire pedal and all its schematics myself.

Values of C5, C6, C8 and C9 dictate frequency cutoffs, I use 82nF for 200Hz low-pass and 15nF for 1000Hz high-pass, I use 10k ohms resistors everywhere. Is that a bad thing or perfectly fine? RV1 controls gain/the size of the signal that goes into circuit for processing, RV2 is low-pass volume control, RV3 is mid-pass (or band-pass I think) volume control and RV3 is high-pass and beyond volume control, I specifically chose 1000Hz for some of the higher notes on the guitar and harmonics, which I want to experiment with myself. D1 and D2 at the end of the circuit for hard clipping, RV5 is final volume control.
Do you think making pedals and selling them for cheaper affordable prices because I have the skill and capabilities than branded ones in a country where pedals are only imported and sold for insanely high prices is a good business idea?

github.com/raphire/win11debloat

It removed Spotify and MSTeams from my system too, is that expected? I simply ran Default mode.

Purchased this laptop a few months ago. Specs include i5-1334U with iGPU Iris Xe Integrated/Intel UHD Integrated, stock 8GB stick plus Rank 2 2667MT/s DDR4 16GB stick in other slot total 24GBs DDR4@2667MT/s. I had always noticed an awful lag and stutter when doing certain tasks, like browsing or opening apps or refreshing or startup. It never showed any FPS drops during gaming. I mostly used Dell's own built-in Power Management to toggle between Optimized mode and Ultra Performance when I was gaming and when I do simple browsing or programming.

Some time around March I noticed that when I put it to Sleep or Hibernation, it almost always crashed Wallpaper Engine, which it didn't do so at all before, alongside the entire system and forcing a restart. I asked Claude, and it reported some Memory issues when I gave it the WE crash log, because it was the only crash log I could think of at the moment.

During this BSOD, the (attached as image, please check), I waited a few minutes and barely budged and stayed at 0% when trying to restart, so I force shut it down, then when I restarted, lots of flickering lines appeared at startup Dell screen and it refused to proceed further, and after a few more force restarts I managed to get it to boot. After that I asked Claude.

My first course of action was removing and individually testing both sticks of RAM, of which both booted successfully, and upon BIOS Memory Diagnostic test, it came back fine. The iGPU couldn't be failing because I knew it was too early and I had been using it responsibly and kept track of not keeping it at 100% and forcing FPS out of it when gaming.

My second course of action was deleting the Intel graphics driver and reinstalling it via Intel's website. I have a post for this on my profile too, I will link it.

Fast forward to until 2 days ago (26th of June), I was still running my laptop on the 16GB single slot stick and the 8GB stick wasn't inserted since then. No more crashes or BSODs at all. But then when I simply launched a game, it gave me BSOD, saying

Stop code: MEMORY_MANAGEMENT (0x1A)

There was no flickering like with the first BSOD, but I also had to force restart it. Nothing crashed or so, and I'm beginning to think some sort of memory system is faulty, or there is still some driver compatibility or issue.