If using the car strictly for Autocross and cost is not a factor, which one is the better / more fun car? I like the Supra but am beginning to think maybe the 86 is the better Autocrosser.
I’d really like to replace the clear jewel case doors on my games. Since I can’t replace the black part where the card goes I’ve been trying to find some replacement jewel cases with the same thickness/quality clear door plastic as the originals so I can just swap out the clear part. So far even the ones that claim to be extra thick or strong plastic bend way more than the original doors and don’t fit as well. Has anybody found a good replacement clear part?
Are we expecting the AES+ to be a limited run/hard to get machine or will it be available long-term? Analogue has me getting fomo about all these things now but maybe the AES+ is going to be readily available for months after the initial release?
Just got my Duo. Works great for games, but can’t get save states to work. I have a SD card installed and am using a wired controller to the side PCE port. When I hold down up and press select nothing happens. Is this a known issue? Just doesn’t work with wired controllers?
Looking forward to the AES+ and I’m wondering what the state of cartridge shopping is these days. Looks like there will be 10 or so rereleases for the AES+, but beyond those what’s the best way to add more games? Seems like true AES carts are crazy expensive so is everyone just going with MVS conversions or what? I’m a newbie and have always wanted to get into Neo Geo so the AES+ is attractive but I’m concerned I’ll be stuck with the 10 rereleases unless I want to drop like $1000+ for a single original AES cart.
I just discovered this great company and picked up the 3D and Duo. Would have loved to get the Mega SG, NT, and Super NT but it looks like they aren’t made anymore and my only option is expensive ones on eBay. Any reason they stopped making them?
What’s the best currently available controller for the Duo? Looking for wireless that is as close as possible to the original TG16 controller.
Any website I try to use the Yubikey with, including the official Yubico test website, fails with Safari. I get the pop up asking for the PIN and it always thinks the PIN is wrong.
I’m running MacOS and Safari 26.6, which is the latest.
PIN is correct as the Yubikey works fine through apps that aren’t using Safari. It also works fine on the same websites using Chrome and accepts the PIN without any issues.
The issue was also occurring on Firefox but after I changed the Firefox setting for “security.webauthn.enable_macos_passkeys” to false Firefox started working and accepting the PIN.
So it seems like this issue is directly tied to MacOS/Safari. Is there no fix? Yubikey just doesn’t work with Safari?
My understanding of travel mode is that you turn it on and off via the 1P website, not within the app. So I turn it on before traveling, and then once I am where I’m going I turn it off. But if I have to sign into the 1P website it seems like that will require me carrying my secret key on paper or something since the vault that normally contains my key will be unavailable. Is this correct?
I’m working on figuring out what my recovery plan is if my iPhone is lost or stolen when I’m traveling internationally and have no other devices with me. Does anybody know what steps I should take ahead of time so I would be able to purchase a new iPhone and set it up to my Apple account if I don’t have any other devices with me?
Right now any new Apple devices always ask me to confirm the iCloud login using another, already signed-in Apple device. But when traveling I won’t have another device with me.
Also, if there is some way to authenticate via an SMS code (which seems like it would defeat the purpose of the stronger Apple security using an existing device), then does anybody know if there’s a way to move your number to a new device from a US carrier when you aren’t in the US?
What’s everybody’s plan for this scenario?
Anybody running the AFE front bar for B Street Autocross? About to install mine and was wondering which setting is best for B Street setups. Was going to just go with the middle one to start unless somebody knows which one works the best.
Outside of the collectibility aspect of it and owning the physical games, etc etc. is there any practical, gameplay reason to use the original hardware versus just playing the games with the Switch N64 controller via the online service? I was thinking of picking up a classic console and a few of my old favorites, but then I see they are already available on my Switch 2 basically for “free” versus having to buy a console, the games, some type of upscaler/converter etc.
Seems like I’ve read some people just use the stock 19” wheels for Autocross. Do you switch to a square tire setup for that? I’m used to always buying different wheels and tires for my other Autocross cars to maximize things but maybe the Supra stock wheels are already a good size and just need tires?
I have some international travel with long plane rides coming up. These will be my first long flights since having my first kidney stone last year. I’m pretty concerned about something happening during the flight since my first kidney stone basically incapacitated me within like 5 minutes. Are there any tests or imaging I can have done prior to flying to help alleviate my fears and show there aren’t any new stones? I was thinking maybe ultrasound?
Anybody else notice the main dash and the radio display are kind of dim during the day? Seems like the brightness adjustment for the radio screen doesn’t even do anything below the center point and even if I raise it up it doesn’t get all that bright.
Long time Autocrosser, Supra newbie. What the go-to setup on Autocross day?
- What are some good starting tire pressures?
- I take it I should be turning on Sport mode and turning off the Supra Safety stuff. That seems pretty easy with the buttons. What’s the process to disable DSC?
I’m going to give it a shot totally stock to learn the car since it’s kind of late in the season. When I’m doing street class mods later it seems like the front sway bar is the main thing to do on these cars. Any sway bar recommendations?
Are the stock wheels and tire sizes good, or should I switch those up? All my previous Autocross cars be benefitted from different sized wheels but it would be nice to not have to buy more wheels.
Trade in and private sale prices are pretty low online. I’m guessing because you never know if the car needs $5000 in maintenance right away. Curious what I could sell mine for to somebody who knows the e90 and would appreciate that mine has most all major maintenance items done (ofhg, valve cover, water pump, thermostat, all fluids, shocks, blower motor, starter, radiator, etc etc.). It’s a 2009 328i with about 120k on it.
What’s the current market like? Is MSRP “good” or are there discounts to be had?
Was thinking about picking up a Jaguar after having one when they were first out. What’s the best way to play it on my current TV? Scart cable from Jaguar to RetroTINK 5x to HDMI?
If I were to lose my iPhone (stolen, dropped in the ocean, etc.) and needed to setup a new iPhone while traveling internationally… how would that work? I have other Apple devices that Apple sends the verification code to when I sign in on a new device… but I won’t have any of those with me. Is there still some way for me to buy a new iPhone and set it up if I don’t have my other Apple devices with me?